I recently, did an oil change on my 07 that led me to new passenger/driver side CV axles, after that I also realized that she’ll also be needing new control arms, inner/ outer tie rods.. Thank you for your hard work and informative video. Btw you’ll also be needing new axles 😉
@@chriswilson1215 I got down there and saw the damaged CV boots, they had already failed completely and all the grease had already fallen out of the remaining part, when I took them off, they snapped like a wishbone. So thank God I checked when I did, could have been ALOT worse.
@@neonchronik7359 oh okay, was only wondering because i have an 07 3 hatchback and ive been trying to chase a shake that used to come on around 50 and after doing all 3 mounts i can feel it at slower speeds. And sometimes when i am going at a constant speed and let off the throttle you can feel the steering wheel shake.. not sure what it is..i work at a mazda dealer and ive had a couple of our techs look at it and they say everything is tight..
1) the part at 3:20 is very important. I installed it without using jack and it did NOT seated right. 2) getting the arm positioned so that the bolts caught the threads took me an hour per arm, 3) You do NOT have to take off caliper or rotor - plenty of space with them on.
did this on the driver side of my rusty 2008 mazda 3. Was a BITCH. None of the bolts ever lined up, I spent all day trying to get it on. Wish me luck on the passenger side
@@elChopsyday three of trying to figure out how to get the bolt closest towards the ac compressor do you have any tips because it doesn’t wiggle out at all
@@GREER2from memory mine started to come out when I was undoing it just like the video. It was getting everything back together I found to be the struggle 😅
@@GREER2 pretty sure you have to take the bolt out of the transmission mount so you can use a prybar to move the motor forward to get the bolt out. All these videos only show one side and never the side you have to do this too.
Take the three bolts off the AC Compressor shield, remove shield, then raise engine slightly with jack and block of wood. Then, you don't need to remove the engine bolt. I haven't done it yet, but other videos show this route. Looks somewhat easier.
Pretty good video. Just stop putting thread locker on everything. It doesn’t need it, especially on caliper bolts. Bolts stretch when done up and what’s what keeps them tight.
not on this model, some have that , some dont. When you get your control arms you will see there are two options, just check your car before purchasing.
@@bobsoft depends on the model I suppose. I put the floor jack under the motor and jacked it up. There was enough room without having to remove the motor torsion bolt, that hack saved me hours of messing with the extra step. Start to finish in 3.5 hours for both front lower control arms. I only had youtube as my guide. Replacing the control arms was the biggest project I have attempted to date.
@@bobsoft That's the official way. The Mazda manual has this - the 'No.1 engine mount' how they refer to the one at the lower rear of the engine. When working on the right side of LF engine vehicles, move the engine and transaxle slightly towards the front side of the vehicle so that the engine does not interfere with the removal of the lower arm rear side bolt. 1. Remove the No.1 engine mount center bolt. (LF engine vehicles) 2. Move the engine and transaxle slightly towards the front side of the vehicle. (LF engine vehicles) 3. Remove the front lower arm rear side bolt. 4. Remove the front lower arm.
I got my old control arm and ball joint off but when I tried using the jack to push the new one through it only went halfway in and now I can’t figure out how to get it pressed in all the way. Any tips anyone ?
I love watching these videos but hate the fact that on pretty much everyone one I have seen across you there is never a rusted bolt, a rounded bolt and everything comes apart easily. Then you settle down with your video and your spanners and reality bites.
