How to Change Front Brake Pads RAM 1500 

Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it! Thats the goal is to make easy to follow helpful vids. I'm learning and getting better at making them as I go too! 👍

Thanks for the feedback Malcolm I appreciate it! 👍👍👍

Thanks for the support on the channel brother 💪

What about taking the master cylinder cap off while pressing in the pistons?

No problem! Thanks for the support Mike!

Thanks Roger!! 👍

Thanks Jerry! Hopefully this helps some people out before they pick up the big slug hammer to smash the rotor off 😂

Did he show how to compress the pistons in this video or am I missing something? I bought a tool for it but no idea how to use it

@@MgOrt231 @N I've always just used a big C clamp and a 2x4 to compress the pistons... You just put the wood against the pistons and crank away with the c clamp, with one part of the c clamp behind the caliper until it bottoms out. You could use any piece of wood. The only purpose of using the wood is so you don't have metal pushing on your pistons when you're decompressing them with the c clamp. 👍

I've never needed any tool but a c clamp

I thought so. It's been so long since I've changed brake pads. Nobody ever said anything about removing the cap so I thought I was crazy.

I feel ya, used a jack and a chain and just warped the jack. So I had to grab a sledge

Thanks for the support on the channel! It sounds like your pads are binding. Some cheaper pads need the tabs to be filed down a bit because they fit right like you said in the caliper bracket. If you stick them in without filing them when you press the brakes the pads wont be able to release so it’s like the brakes are stuck on causing the heat you are seeing. I would get better pads or take those out and file the tabs down a bit so they aren’t so tight

@@BoostedMotorsports Thanks for the suggestion and reply!

Just curious, how did it go? I'm about to change mine on my 2017.

Thanks man!

Thanks for the support Michael! Late response to your question but I would recommend a catch can. You wouldn't believe the amount of junk they catch on a HEMI in a short period of time!

👍👍👍

Take a flat head screw driver to the edge of the bolts boot, coming from the engine compartment toward the outside of the truck. With the flathead placed between the boot that surrounds the pin and the metal pad, pry toward the tire, not toward engine. They will compress, he explained this in the video and did so throughly, which helped me big time. Once the caliper is off, you push the pin boots outwards all the way, might need a clamp to help (I used on one, where the other one was able to by hand) …. Lastly, I take a large C clamp, with a piece of hardwood 5-6 inches long, and compress the main two cylinders on the caliper and that gets it all the way back. Do it slowly and open the brake fluid cap while doing that, with a rag tied around the rim of the opening. Pop tha cal back onto the brake structure and slip the pins on wrench em on. Get the tire on and press your brake down slowly, release slowly, and do that a few times, it’ll stiffen up and lastly replace the cap. If your caliper is making strange noises, or your vehicle pulls hard while driving, you got bigger issues than pads, your caliper is probably seized up and needs replacing. Know it’s a late post to you but hope this helps you or someone in the future. Peace from your neighborhood pitbull

Thanks brother I appreciate it 💪🤘

Did you ever get an answer to this

@@seandesmond4414 no but, I changed both on my truck.

No problem 🤟🤟🤟

Anytime man! 💪

1/2 is SAE equivalent to a 13mm metric. Almost any application that calls for a 13mm socket, you also be done with a 1/2”. And vice versa.

CERAMIC BRAKE PADS

If you use a prybar or screwdriver on the windown of the caliper before you take it off to press the piston back you dont need a c clamp or similar tool 😎

I see. Wasn’t really paying attention to that. I apologize.

michael rosado 24 ft lbs for front caliper. 130 ft lbs for caliper bracket bolts.

Certain gens of the Ram 1500 came with a sort of flat locking washer that goes over one the lug nuts. You’d see it once the wheel removed. It’s just put there during assembly so the rotor doesn’t fall off. It needs to be cut and removed and thrown out. That could easily be preventing it to come off Otherwise, it sounds like your rotor is rust welded to the hub. If you’re not planning on reusing the rotor, you can smack the crap of the rotor in alternating spots. Making sure not to hit your wheel studs. Assuming you are talking about the front rotors, you can also turn wheel lock in one direction, and repeat the hitting of the rotor steps, but on the back of rotor. Also using rust penetrant can’t hurt.

NO

JUST LOOSEN IT

Process very similar I just did the front and rear on my 2002 RAM. So yes rear is pretty much same. I found it easy to use a caliper tool that you can loan from AutoZone. Makes getting the piston where it needs to be to get your pads on easily. Each brake and rotor took about 15 minutes each.

@@burnham187 tyvm , I appreciate it and keep up the great work.

I’ll be doing a video specifically for the rear brakes next 👍

Thanks John. Perfect timing as I need to do my pads and have been researching. Fairly easy.