12 years old and still was the best video I found for a sportbike brake pad swap. I never leave comments, but this was a perfect video so I felt compelled. For anyone with Brembo monoblocks with a clip in the back of the caliper - use a screwdriver to push the pads to the middle of the caliper and they pop right out. When putting them back in, you just press them into the spring clip and push them in place.
It's pretty sad here in Rochester,NY that we only have 2 dealerships. Holink which for servicing a mototcycle of anytype is very unreliable, their mechanics are absolute hacks. Then there is cycle stop..which has a decent service center but is so expensive that only the rich can afford. I have chosen to do all the service on my 05 cbr600rr my self and videos like this help so so much. Thankyou for your time in putting this video together for us it is very much appreciated!!
I just finished my front brakes and i followed these instructions. No gunk left. Caliper piston was nice and clean moving forward. Pushing dirt back into the seal is bad advice...don't do it. Many other videos depict "10 Minute" change. I don't know why you would take chances with the most important part of your motorcycle. Thanks guys this video is the best one i have found so far.
@deerman1212 You can if you want to, it is not a big deal as it won't be there long at all. The main thing would be to check the pin for wear and replace them if a groove has worn in them. A little lube where they pass through the caliper won't hurt and might make future service easier.
Thanks to you I did some maintenance on my R1. I've been riding since '06. This is the first time I've changed brake pads and fluid, sparkplugs and air filter. next project will be a powercommander V. But that I won't be doing myself. by the end of the season I'll be doing my chane.
@Bulgdoom I agree that there are optional cleaners that can be used. I will add that brake cleaner is used for this very task more than any other cleaner. End of the day the dust boots on the caliper pistons are very durable. Think about all the extreme heat, heat cycles and poor maintenance they survive. Please remember that brake seals can be damaged if they are exposed to petroleum based products.
I have never had an issue. With track riding we change pads very often. For a street rider who will only do this once in a while that would not be a bad idea. Good call
@Gino20202 The SBK5 pads are solid for just street as well. The SBK5 pads are the top selling pads at our shop as they work for street and or track riding.
I like that you guys are doing some how to's, it will save some folks some maintenance money for sure! On a side note I like the way you do your reviews compared to your competition. You guys at least say what you like and even some of the thing you think might be improved upon. as well as recommend higher or lover grade equipment depending on what purpose the rider might be thinking of using it for which goes above and beyond!
Thank you Donnie, this is an older one and we've done more since then on my R6 and the Project Bike R1. There will also be more to come on the 2014 Project Bike FZ-09. ~Aubrey
A noob to biking, and came across this video and braved changing my front and rear pads today. Put on some HH spintered on my Honda hornet 600. Also bled the front as well. Excellent video, delivered well. Keep up the good work. Braving the chain and sprocket next month.
Thank you for the feedback and I am glad we were able to help you through the install process. We have a ton of videos available for most of the basic maintenance install items if you check our Channel. ~Aubrey
If the bike has sat for a while and you are looking to get this thing ready to ride again you should inspect the pads and change the brake fluid. It would not be a bad idea to change the pads, just not really required if they look good when removed.
@Zed100000 Take the time and do it the proper way. Some bikes will allow you to change the pads without removing the calipers. When you do it that way you are not able to clean the pistons on the calipers. We do ship internationally every day.
Nice video! For some tips for other: put a towel at the rim etc, so you wont scratch anything. Also there is no need to bleed the brake fluid. Just clean, push and insert😊 same as with cars, no need to bleed the fluid unless you change caliper or want new brake fluid.
@08GSXR600WHT THe advice for the pads is correct, race pads take a little more heat. That being said we do have several riders who use the Vesrah RJL pads on the street and track as they heat up fast and do not require a ton of heat. The RBF has a higher boiling point and can perform better while racing or on the track a little better than the 5.1.
Just followed the suggestion of opening the bleed screw before pushing back the pistons on my audi. Worked line a charm. Can't believe I was struggling all those years. All green gunk came out. Flushed the lines after as well. Don't push those pistons back without opening the lines. Make it easy on yourself.
2day I had my powercommander and quickshifter installed. One word. Wow! It's amazing that such a little box can do magic with a bike. And I don't mean the power, but how much smoother it runs. Thanks 4 your advice once again. Keep up the good work!
Just keep sending fresh fluid through the system until it starts flowing clear/clean in the tub connected to the bleeder screws. If you bleed all the old fluid out first, you're going to have a bunch of air in the system to deal with.
@Jmoges I have used a hone on the rotors before and to be honest noticed zero difference. In my opinion as long as the rotors are in good shape and you break the pads in properly after replacement you will be fine.
Professional, i cant believe that he made a very good video indetail and ppl still dislike the video! thank you bro! I feel like a pro to do my breaks hahaha
I do not use a torque wrench on every fastener, if you do not have enough experience and feel more comfortable using a torque wrench we encourage you to to do so. - Van
Hey Brian, dont use Brake Cleaner on the pistons, it can damage the rubber seals. Soapy water/Ctrus or Vinegar based cleaner will do the job without affecting the delicate seals. Even chain cleaner may work since its designed to be delicate on the O-rings.
I have a question, is it ok to flush the brake adding new oil on top of the old oil (like in the video) or should I first bleed all the old oil out, then start from ground zero ??? Thanks a lot Very good video!!!
I understand why you removed the caliper to remove the pads and inspect and clean the pistons but wondering why you installed the caliper back on the bike before fitting the new pads? Is it because of the pressure required to fit the pin back into place?
+DeadHead Unlikely. When replacing pads, they will likely be snug and take up all available space. The more nearly loose they can be made, the easier it will be to get everything reinserted where it belongs before permanently locating anything.
I didn't notice whether he said it or not, but if motorcycle brake fluid is anything like the automotive stuff, don't allow any of it to get on anything - especially paint. Automotive brake fluid easily and quickly destroys paint. When doing this, exercising caution is a lot cheaper than a new paint job.
You said these are good for track AND street riding. For someone that never goes to the track and just rides in the street, are these good brake pads or is there another kind that would be better?
Lube the slider pins on the calipers for the rear caliper (front as well if your bike has a floating front caliper) to ensure it does not seize up. Other than that there is no benefit to lubing anything else IMO. - Van
how do you install the bleeders? does fluid come out when you put them in or do they just attach to the end of the bleed screw? also is that bleed bag just a bag or does it have a one way valve in it or something? would a bottle with a hose work the same way? i only ask as im on the other side of the world so the shipping cost probably wouldnt make it a viable option to buy if theres other options.
Great tutorial. I have a question though. even from day one on my new 2011 gsxr, i have had a bit of brake pad drag on my front brakes. I would say about 1 - 1/4 rotations when up on a statnd. I recently ordered some pads from you guys and did a pad change. Cleaned the the caliper pistons really well, and fresh fluid change. I torqued the axle to spec, and i still get only about 1 to 1/4 rotations. Any advice to get a more free spinning front wheel? Thanks guys.
Hey Brian, couple guys at the shop told me C59's and Vesrah's need more heat to work best, is that why the XBK's are a great street choice? And when/how do you switch out to the speed bleeder screws without opening the system when changing them... and what's the difference between motul's DOT 5.1 fluid and the RBF Racing 4 fluid? Thanks!
Hi, Can you change pads without removing the caliper body? i.e. keeping caliper on wheel just remove the pad pin and spring, hit it with brake cleaner, jamp your thumb in and push back the pistons and insert new pads?? Also - does your online website ship internationally? i can't find brake bleeder bags for sale or import into australia at all!!!
I have brembo brakes on a 2014 gsxr 750. Will that one way check valve be inside my bleeder screw as well? I noticed on another video you pumped and then closed the bleeder screw before releasing the brake. Why would there be a difference. Thank you for any response.
hey man i was trying to change the front brake pads on my cbr f2 but on the the bolts that holds the pads to the caliper is all messed up. i think the guy i bought it from tried to get it out and theres no way of getting out. any tips or ideas? i dont wanna buy another caliper, thanks.
great vid folks... I have a quick question! I decided to change pads and bleed the front because i noticed a rubbing sound from the front end. I jacked the front end up and sure enough the wheel wouldnt spin freely, removed the caliper from the mounts and it span freely. anyway... new pads on and system bled and the pads still rub on the disc to the point where i spin the front wheel and it stops after 6 inches rotation (just like before). Is this normal? thanks, Chris. (disc's not warped)
I'll say one more thing and hush. He didn't downplay the importance of rear brakes, just stated a fact that no choices were available. On the other hand, front brakes handle most of the braking, typically 75%+. I suspect track usage may be even higher, so their role is much more important than rears, but not to the point of ignoring rears. While in San Clemente CA in the early 80's, I watched a fellow riding a beautifully restored Indian on the street. Traffic was light, moving about 20-25 mph. The light turned red, a car stopped quickly in front of him, and he did the worst possible thing - used only his rear brake as hard as he could. It wasn't pretty. He slid into the back of the car, destroying the bike, and barely escaped injury by catapulting over the trunk past the side of the car instead of landing into the roof. He wasn't wearing a helmet, and escaped serious injury. If it had happened to me, I wouldn't know whether to cry from not being hurt, or from destroying the beautiful bike. The moral of this: Front brakes do most of the braking; make sure they can do their job properly. I can't think of any situation where using only the rear brake would be a good idea.
Best practice is to install the pads and break them in on the bike as described. In order for the pads to work you need to transfer pad material to the brake rotor for them to work properly. - Brian Van
Even though is not much, you could still breathe the brake dust you’d be sanding so unless you enjoy breathing asbestos and cancer that would be the last thing you wanna do.
Tough to say without seeing it myself. When the pads are installed in the caliper there should be enough tension on the anti rattle clip that it doesn't move very much if at all. If it is moving around you may need a new clip. What brand of pads are you running? - Van
Brake fluid should be changed once a season for a street bike and more often on a track bike. Good idea to change the fluid when you do the pads. - Van
Last Q 4 know😕. I'm reading a lot of different stories about installing a powercommander V. Does it actually improve the ride or is it a waist of €? I have a slip on Acrapovic and a K&N air filter. I would like to take your advice in to consideration.
I just had my front disc brake and pads changed to new ones by a mechanic. I didn't pay atention to exactly how much the wheel could spin (before the change of pads and disc) when i would just try and spin it when on the centre stand. But now i notice that it barely spins. Maybe 1/2 a turn when i give it a spin with my hand. I'm thinking the pads are touching the disc? Is that normal or should i adjust the pads so the wheel can spin freely? Thanks!
