@@louisronan5903 I posted a very negative comment yesterday because I have been left with a snapped bolt inside the CV shaft end because of their duff torque settings. There's no way it will come out so I'll have to buy a new joint and have the hassle of fitting it. Why didn't they put a message on screen instead of leaving it in the comments? At 70 years old and looking after a sick wife I don't need the extra hassle.
@@peterrichardson9878 : Yeah I don’t know how they got it so monumentally wrong. Don’t worry, I had an issue this weekend just gone. I was sold 2 wish bones for my ford focus and they accidentally sold me 2 left-hand side wish bones instead of left and right and I didn’t realise until I disassembled the whole wheel assembly. They didn’t even apologies either. Anyway, I hope your wife gets better.
This is a good video, and it certainly helped me. However for the benefit of others that are considering doing it themselves, there are a few things which might help. 1) According to the Ford workshop manual, the lower ball joint nut should be renewed for safety. 2) The clearance between the lower ball joint nut and the driveshaft/CV joint is tight, hence him using a combination spanner to release it. You'll need a crows foot or some other means for attaching a torque wrench when reassembling. 3) The torque specs are mostly wrong. For instance, the strut to wheel knuckle should be 90nm, not 70nm, the caliper anchor plate bolts should be 115nm, not 65nm, and the hub retaining bolt should be 45nm + 90°, not 145nm. The latter should also be renewed as it's a stretch bolt, although this should come with the wheel bearing kit.
Am schimbat butuci cu rulmenți și mi-au rămas niște martorii în bord aprinși care ar fi cauza, până să schimb rulmenți nu aveam nici un martor aprins la bord? Care ar fi cauza.
@@autodocuk Why did you use the wrong data and didn't correct it after this user's post?! Why didn't you replace the video with the correct one, because a lot of people don't read the comments and just use your video as a repair manual!
Took my cmax to a shop in July 2020, both front wheel bearings were replaced, 7 months later the right front was bad, they replaced the bearing as warranty work. Got the car back with new bearing but a brake issue on the right front, brought the car in, they said I needed new brakes 600$, put new pads in my self, a month later same bearing went out, they claimed they hadn't worked on it, said the steering rod was loose, only 800$ to repair, again proved to them that it's a warranty work. Your video showed me how they needed to disassemble the whole spindle assembly and if something is loose there it's their fault. Thanks great work
Probably the only mechanic I've seen on you tube who knows what there doing, excellent job, I'd let you work on my car, and out of the 100's of mechanics I've worked with over the years, I can count the ones I'd let work on my car on one hand. 👍
I just have been charged for 2 hours working fee for this service. Just out of curiosity, is that realistic or should I look for another shop to take my car the next time?
I just completed this job on my Volvo, which is very similar. I was concerned to see that there seems to be nothing holding the hub/bearing into the Steering Knuckle. Is the bearing being forced into this housing enough to keep the hub and therefore the wheel from coming off while driving? I know that there is the 13mm hex bolt holding the C/V axle, but I wouldn't think that would do much to hold it all together. Most older cars had some sort of axle nut that held the bearing itself. Can an expert weigh in and explain? Thanks!!
Yeah the force of the bearing into the hub is enough to hold it when pressed in properly, assuming there’s no damage to the knuckle. The 13mm is to stop the CV from coming loose on its own really.
It’s fair to say I won’t be attempting this at home then, 😅😂 Thankyou, it was a great watch and im now a little wiser as to how incredible a mechanics job is!
Thanks a lot, very well done, professsionell through! Now i know how to get off the brake caliper easy if brake disc has big rusty edge! Helmut from Austria
great video, but it is really annoying how bad the design of the wheel bearing fitment is. Almost no surface to hold the new bearing when pressing it in...
so its okie to press the wheel bearing like this!whit out the wheel bearing tool for gen 2 wheel bearings .. Nice i allmost bought this half moon tool i got press i can use so this saved me 150 euro :) thx
no its not they ae using the wrong tools that is putting load on the bearing and not the outer race when installing compleatly the wrong way to fit this bearing
@@edwinhoward-fb4zy thanks but 3 years ago hehe, i was end up useing the press tool whit bolt true hub and like 4 -5 pinns to hold the 2 plates to geter whit distands, the right tool for this kinda hubs
The procedure is good, but to return the lower pivot of the arm with a leaky cuff 6:45 ? But maybe that's on purpose and another video is made about it, like replacing the front arm pin
Thank you for your attention! You are right, we made a mistake in the credits. Unfortunately, we cannot change the credits, but we will add information to the description. According to the catalog Tightening torques for transmission The Central bolt 45 Nm + 90.
Our videos are for informational purposes only. All routine replacements and values can be found directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of the auto maintenance service. AUTODOC
Our videos are for guidance only. All routine replacements and values \u200b\u200bcan be found directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of a car maintenance service. AUTODOC
![How to change the front wheel bearing on a FORD FOCUS MK2 saloon [TUTORIAL AUTODOC] problem-solving](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
