Just took your plans and made one for my wife for Valentines. I"ve never done anything like this and it turned out pretty cool. Had a few hiccups since I didn't have the exact same bits as you, but worked through them. Can't wait to give it to her. Wish I could upload a picture.
That's so awesome to hear, I'm glad they worked well for you! Thank you for the support! If you have an Instagram account, post it with #TTheartTray, I would love to see it!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for writing out all your feeds and speeds and bit descriptions! You have no idea how much this helps for similar projects.
Great idea we will see about incorporating this in some future videos. We actually have some videos showing the drawing and setup in CNC here, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7vTExRWrn5U.html
I had the very same thought. I'm especially interested in how you select the tool heads while designing the piece. For example, did you account for the cornering ability of the roundover bit used at the end when designing how deep the cleft of the heart would be? Or did you just design the heart and get a roundover small enough to fit what you'd designed?
@@alanferrell9406 We can definitely do a video at some point about tool selection and how the pieces are designed. If you're using Vectric software we have all of the toolpaths laid out for you or if you're using another software, we have an SVG for the design and instructions about how to set up all of your toolpaths in the plans available on our website. I didn't particularly decide the roudover to use based on the design, but rather, know that I like the look of this size roundover based on previous projects. The first time I used it like this it was essentially picking a size out and seeing what it looked like. I, personally, learn best through trial and error.
Great instructional video! I greatly appreciate you putting down the feeds and speed rates. However, i do have a question, what difference would it be if I use the 45982 instead of the 45984 (diff is smaller shank). Where do you get your feeds and speeds from? I'm always struggling to find the appropriate rates when i buy a new bit. Thanks!
I have the amana round over bit you used first, is there a more specific video on how to use that bit correctly? Do you only want to go as deep as the point on the bit? And with the bowl bit, do you use a really tight stepover the keep it from making “ridges” in your pockets?
hey so im practicing drafting old fashioned style, let me see what kind of custom sustainable wood rulers you can make. would be cool if you could put some si conversions and other useful information on them would be very interested soon.
Could a person possibly fill in your date at the bottom of the bowl with let’s say paint before you sand it smooth, then put the tungoil finish over the whole project to highlight the date.
at 2:09sec you have a Pro Tip.... "Z-zero position to the bottom of the tray for engraving"... does this mean the bottom newly created with the (#45984) bowl bit, or the underside of the stock material?
Would love to see exactly how these vectors were assigned toolpaths and tools in your CAM program. I get the same same bumps on my bottom surface after clearing a pocket with the Bowl & Tray bit, however I am battling to come in and smooth that out with an endmill. When I try that, The end mill starts clearing from the top of the Material surface (which is no longer there) and works down to the bottom surface - taking WAY longer than what is required.... Any tips?
If you're using Vectric software you can buy the plans for it and see how everything was applied. If you're getting actual bumps, it's likely that your stepover is too high. If you want to do that with an end mill, you need to set your z starting position, within the software, at whatever depth of material you've removed after using the bowl bit. You will then zero off the top of the material and it will start where the bowl bit left off. I hope that helps.
The radius point roundover bit. Could we just round it over at the router table when doing the bottom roundover? Or is there a reason we would want to cnc with that bit? Im still learning the bits to use so I was wondering.
Yes, you could definitely just add a roundover at the router table. I did it here because the lip gets a little thin. Also, for production, if you were doing a bunch at the same time it would save you some time to do all of them at the same time as well.
What would you call the opposite of round over? Say I want to make a pocket cut, but I dont want the edges to the top of the substrate to be 90 degrees on the bottom, I want it rounded. What would that be called?
Matt: I ordered the file for this project but the email will not unzip. I've tried to contact tech support but have not received any response. I think the download might have been corrupt. Should I order it again?
If you're using the Amana brand, or any other really, just download their tool base from their website, and put it into your software. The point round over will probably have its own separate heading. Otherwise, you could manually type in your own descriptions into your software. Or you could call it an endmill and just set it up to cut a profile pass ON the line, at the same depth as the radius of the cutter.
I entered the round over bit and the bowl bit into my Tool library and into my VCarve design but it doesn't seem that the round over bit is rounding over the edge as it does on your video. Can you tell me what settings you used for it? Thank you.
@@ToolsToday Thank you for that. Can you also tell me how you set up your toolpath for the roundover? I'm struggling with if it needs to be a offset toolpath and, if so, how much do I offset it? Sorry...new to this!!
@@ToolsToday I have the same CNC. In your description, it says your fly-cutting bit is travelling at 190 ipm. There's no way mine can move that fast. I'd say top speed is about 125.
