Well I just did it in my junker Opel astra and it had 110 psi on 2 cylinders and 120 on the other. Since it was raising the pressure in my cooling system a while, but now stopped I will just drive the stupid thing conservatively till it is dead. It needs a serious engine work and I'm better to buy a lower mileage Toyota and be happy and don't mess with stuff like that! In case you are wondering my vehicle has 185,000 miles currently. I'm the third owner. I've done all the brake jobs, timing belts, pulleys, tensioners, I change the oil and filter religiously every 4,000 miles. Well it might last a year more, but atleast I know I shouldn't drive that car for long distance places because I can get stranded somewhere🥵😂😂😂😂. I am really thinking of buying a Toyota Avensis Station wagon. They have a lot of room, nice interior,and will last me a lot longer since I will change all the fluids, filters, inspect it and so on.
@@joebagofdoe4762 Despite burning a bit of oil, for now the engine works fine. The coolant leak was from a hose and I repaired it. Like I said I will drive it a bit more, and soon I'll get something better.I am going to Germany to work there, and there I use my mom's car, so after 2-3 years I will get either a Subaru or Toyota.
I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Outlander. I do a diagnosed. An it said i need a camshaft possition. Sencor. But the engine. Light wasn't on. When a was driving. But it did shut rite off on the road.. A was thinking if i should do a compression test before. I buy a cam sensor.
Well my stupid mechanic did not disconnect fuel while doing the test, and of course u know what happened next. 😡 However they distinguished the fire within seconds and nothing happened...the question is did that affect my engine by any means?
Nice video! Interesting that the belt (and therefore cylinder 1) were on the driver side, as all the 4 cylinder cars I’m familiar with (VWs and Toyotas) have those on the passenger side.
Hi, the wet reading on one of the cylinders is lower than dry reading..what could be the inference..? I have done dry & wet compression test on my VW Polo 1.2 TDI..the reading is lower in the wet test than the dry test on cylinder number 3..? Dry: 1 - 26.7 (Bar) 2 - 26.5 3 - 27.8 Wet: 1 - 27.6 2 - 26.7 3 - 26.3
I'd like to have a bad example to show you guys, but don't at the moment. Here's my tips: -Check if compression numbers correspond with factory service manual. -Make sure there is less than a 10% difference between the highest and lowest cylinder. -If you assume there is a bad cylinder, then pour some oil into that cylinder via the spark plug hole and run the test again. If the compression goes up, then the piston rings are worn. If the numbers remain the same, then the valves on the head may be the issue.
ebay turbo that d series. but try first getn amanual trans+shiftlinkage+shifter+clutch+flywheel+slave+braidedline+clutch master cyl+clutch pedal+obd2-obd1 harness+p28 ecu+chip kit with pretune for ur d.
GT CONTENT, why didn't you disconnect the ignition system to do a compression test? I'm not sure why auto tech disconnect the ignition system to do a compression test
If you warm the vehicle up wouldn't that make it easier to damage the spark holes from the heated soft aluminum/metal.? I thought compression checks were done while the engine was cold.
Good question. Scotty says warm it up for 5 minutes then take out spark plugs for compression test. Haynes manual says "...allow the engine to cool before removing or installing plugs".
@@GTContent Yes possible but the question is - is it a good idea and are you risking damage to the head threads? I chose to run my car briefly and let it cool down for a while. I got good results on my 16Y8 with no apparent damage. Thanks for you video!
I didn't depress may gas pedal and i got 120psi might be higher when i do depress it next time.I seen some videos of mechanics not pressing the gas pedal engine cold with good compression, it's confusing sometime
After you warmed the car up to operating temperature , you turned the car off to remove the fuel pump fuse, spark plugs, and wires . can you do a compression test with a car that has a crank no start problem? Where it often will not completely start up at all?
Looks wise, I am a fan of the STI blob eye. The EJ25 is known to have weak ring lands (use this compression test video to find out if you're checking one out 😉) but does have a more durable transmission. It is a good project car, but costs more money to make power compared to the EVO.
You can do cold as long as it's consistent, but warm is the preferred because the engine is operating temperature when you're driving the car and that's when the ring seal really matters.
I'm looking into getting an older Ford van from the 1960's. It also comes with a parts van of the same make & model. I don' t know if either vehicle has an engine or whether or not the engines run & I haven't contacted the owner about this. Is it possible for me to run a compression test on both vehicles, before I get new hoses, spark plugs, etc. Thanks
