It looks like when you were releasing the hat pedal the cymbal was being triggered without you even hitting it. Anyway to prevent that sort of thing from happening?
Nice vid Sal. Awesome explanation. These look like a very nice option for those who don’t really have the know,edge to convert on their own. Jman was a close drumming friend I met a while back and passed away. I’m sure you know him or know of him at least as he made Stealth cymbals I play. This is a nice option of fixing cymbs that may have broken or needs new triggers etc. it’s also amazing just how much better the SD3 sounds are. LOL! That rapid machine gun sound from consecutive hits is so annoying. It’s been 20 years and Roland still hasn’t entirely fixed this issue in hi hats but toms mostly.
Hey Greg, thanks so much viewing this video and commenting. Well yes, SD3 is comprised of samples of actual drum sets recording in recording studios and by well known engineers. Whereas Roland V-drum sounds are "modeled", computer programmed. I hope things are as good as can be in the SF Bay Area. Keep drumming!
Nicely done Sal. Im 27 and it seems too complicated. The kit looks very well for an electronic. Probably feels much better to play than a bunch of rubber shapes.
Great Video! Probably the best explanation/demonstration I've seen on how to convert these cymbals. I did want to ask, the cable that goes from the junction box through the lower hi-hat to the underside of the cymbal (the one which you plugs into the drum module), did that wire just fit naturally through one of the holes? (Around 2:40 for the cable I'm referring to!).
Thank you for viewing the video on where you can locate. The paraphernalia that goes with the symbols is listed in the videos description below. I’ll put it here magnatrack.com.
Hey Adam, thank you for viewing this video. I hope you and family are well in this very trying time. I don't get out much on YT anymore so I've been out of touch with the drumming community here.
Cool demo/tutorial Sal!! I didn't hear much of a difference between the module and SD3. I think the difference is more with the crash, ride and other drums.
Thank you Zax for viewing the video. The demo was to highlight the triggering, not the sound. The demo was to show how well the cymbals triggered from either from a module, or software,
Sal, the hi hat conversion was one of my concerns but this video put those concerns to rest. As far as the ride and crashes go, are you running multiple trigger zones for different sounds across the cymbal? I’d like to know how to do that as well
I’m trying to use them as a dual zone setup on a magna track Cymbolic hat on an Alesis Strike pro SE and it only wants to trigger the bow and not the edge of the hat unless I really hit it hard. Any tips? Maybe I should just use it as a single pickup and not do both?
Thank you for the reply. Have you had issues with the other cymbals also needing to be only single zone? I’m trying to run the choke on the two crashes as well and only one crash with respond properly to the module, very frustrating
The rubber comes with the Magnatrack cymbals, but if you create your own triggered cymbals the rubber can be purchased at an auto supply store. The pads were purchased at an office supply store.
Nice and easy build my friend i also like to ask if you use the 2 cymbals closed or the only one cymbal (the top as example) and install downside of the cymbal a hihat controller and only one magnatrack trigger to the top cymbal you didn't have the same result??
Hello Stamatis, thanks for watching the video. Yes, 2 cymbals are used: the top one has a Magnatrack low volume cymbal trigger with it's output to hihat input of the module. There is a Magnatrack HC-2 controller with the output cable going to the hihat controller input of the module.
I am trying to turn my low volume hi-hat into the electronic version and I am very thankful for the tutorial. Could you please let me know the name of your trigger for the hi-hat?
I don’t recall and I found out they’re not necessary if you tweak the settings in the drum module and find settings that work for you. It takes a lot of trial and error. I’ve been playing the converted cymbals at church five times a week for the past year or so without these trims.
I'm happy to have found this video :) I've got an acustic drum kit at home, with Remo silentstroke mesh heads and Zildjian L80 cymbals for home practice/playing. I was thinking of converting it to an electronic drum kit, this video will surely help. I don't have to buy electronic cymbal pads, I can keep my L80s and convert them. I'll take a closer look at your videos, in order to find the same solution for the snare,toms and kick drum. Thanks again :) God bless us all 🙏 ☮&❤
I was wondering why you didn't show how it connects to the controller. I appreciate the video you did but I want to see the whole project completed. Is there another video for that?
@@rhythmantic thank you for the answer! I already have a low volume hihat, but im thinking of buying magnatrack HC-2 pedal, and some triggers. OR instead of magnatrack, im thinking of buying vh-10, or vh-11 hi hat and controller. i want to know which performance is best for playing ? i mean the feeling and convenience. Is magnatrack even worth it? or would it be better to get vh-10/11 straight away? I've read a lot af people who tried both of these options, your videos too. I noticed that ones who used metal triggerred hi hats (because it feel more realistic) after some time go back to rubbered hi hats due to issues using metal ones. I'm so confused because I can't choose the best option
@@mityazhuravlev Well you can’t go wrong with Roland. The Magnatrack controller is a good option but you’ll have to spend time configuring its settings to trigger to your touch and for dynamics. Also you may have to deal with positioning the controller to a proper height underneath your hihat pedal. The pedal will either be too close or too far from the pedal.
Do you mind sharing what rubber edge guard you used on your cymbals? I used car door edge guards but the rubber is a bit thin and I find that it wears out pretty quickly...
The rubber rim guards came with the cymbals and I no longer use them and took them off and instead use about 6" strips of car door edge guards and placed them away from the area where I strike the cymbal. Just that small amount of muffling is enough to eliminate any false triggering. I hope that helps and thank you for watching the video. If you have any further questions please contact Magnatrack tech support.
Im looking to converting my acoustic kit to electric and I already have low volume cymbals and simply do not want to go with rubber cymbals. Ive read mixed results on converting low volume cymbals or buying already converted cymbals in regards to reliability and durability. Which made me think I might need to go rubber anyway for a good experience. But this seems to work very well. May I ask how often did you use this in the past year? Do they still hold up? Also on the website I see magnetic triggers for both drums and cymbals. And specific low volume cymbal triggers, but they have the cymbolic logo on them, and yours don't. I'm guessing those are version 2 and in the video you use version 1 of those triggers, am I correct? Thanks for posting this clear and informative video, very helpful for my a2e journey. And it gives me hope that I can do this without going for toy-looking rubber cymbals. :D
Hello thanks for watching the video. The cymbals will hold up as long as any metal cymbal. I’ve been using mine for about 3 years. I also use Magnatrack cymbals at the church and have used them for 5 services a week for 2 years now. The cymbals in this video have the Cymbolic logo. I hope this answers your questions.
