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Been painting for over 40 years (my own stuff) and I learned one little thing thing from this video (getting that excess paint off the top of the bristles on that narrow side). Worked like a charm as I was cutting in today. Thanks!
@@ExpressionsPainting, also watched your trim and baseboard videos. Good info. Wife was extremely pleased with the job I did on the dining room and living room. See some others bad-mouthing your techniques. Hey, your advice helped me do a better job than my just slappin' paint on the walls of years past. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the great video. I tried your technique yesterday and it worked really well. Biggest takeaway was that I wasn't using the brush properly. Getting rid of excess paint on the tip and letting the middle of the brush deliver the paint was an eye opener. Tried it over the doors first and did the whole room without having to tape. I'm not a painter (my guy was booked up) and this was really helpful for a large bathroom. Saved a lot of time.
This is my most aggravating step in painting and you made it into a smooth process that I just have to practice. The cutting and feathering (fade in and out) was explained easily for an inexperienced painter
I just painted my landlords house who resides in the home to do touch ups...my intentions were as pure as Easter but I mismatched the colors by accident somehow 🙃😅
I’m a professional painter (30 plus years). The Dude in the video has good skills and good advice for the diy-ers. I’d add: use a high quality angled sash brush with a “firm” to “very firm” bristle formulation, 2 to 2 1/2 inch wide and use a high quality “spatter” free wall paint. Some of the cheaper paint “trails” the brush from the bucket to the wall, resulting in long drips on the wall and will spatter on woodwork
Lol If you painted that many years you should know how to handle a brush and not allow those drips. If it does drip just use your wet rag that you should always have on you. If it hits the wall just feather it out and keep it moving.
The angle brush makes a huge difference. I have found a smaller brush about 45mm or say 1½" works best for me but I'm an ammature. I agree with using a thicker paint. Eg today I'm using a stain blocker, instantly thicker out of the can/tin. So much easier to get good coverage without drips.
stiff brush? no way. 2 inch brush on a wall? LOL... no, too small, too many strokes, less paint distribution. 2.5 - 4 inch is best. sash only work in one direction. a true wall brush can work in both directions.
or you can use painters tape........... even a long drywall mud knife can act as a barrier between what you are painting and the area you want to keep clean
Thanks for sharing. I saw a comment, “That’s why this guy is a pro, and we’re not.” From watching this video I have every confidence I can do it right. Thanks for sharing. I watched a plumber sweat pipe for a water heater. My friends that know plumbers for years said I didn’t do the job myself. Catch the important points. You made important points very clear. Thank you so much.
Great vid man! I painted professionally for years, and was fortunate to have an experienced painter teach me how to paint. I always get in that age old argument with the DIY’ers who are utterly shocked to see me painting and cutting a room without using painters tape, and I tell them if you use the proper brush for the job and learn how to use it, you’ll actually save time by not having to tape up everything. When I was trained, literally the first thing the man said to me was “If I ever catch you using painters tape, you’re out of of job because it slows the crew down and costs me money”.
Thank you so much! Your video is the first one that actually gives tips that work!! After watching your video I applied your techniques and finished my bathroom walls/floorboards without tape .... thank you !!!!!
Hey man.. I'm a decorator in the UK and would like to thank you for all your hints and tips!! gotta get me some of those brushes!! great channel! Thank you.
This demo was very good, giving small useful tips for non professionals, doing small jobs in home on weekends.getting equipments, raw mat, &other misc. mat, like waste cloth etc.
I like 3 for walls 2 for trim . The straight line starts with the first coat. Often its possible to cut once and roll twice. Being rested and relaxed is also very important.
You are awesome! Thank you for your tutorial on how to do a cut in. I'm working on window trim right now and tried the technique and it worked SO much better than my old process (tape and prayer). I will definitely be sending people to your channel in the future!!!
Can I ask what kind of brush are you using and when you’re done painting how do you get all the paint off of it? Also, if you have to stop in between, do you recommend wrapping the paint brush in plastic bag???
I been a painter for military contracts since 1999.the old man that taught me was a 3rd generation painter.so I know a thing or two.Good job kid.you made a video that would be valuable to any beginner (and some journeymen).
also I use masking tape on skirting because when you start painting with a roler, then many dots need to be clean etc.etc. It takes some few minutes but you are safe for all work, all day to the end...specialy if need second coat.
Definitely a pro. Notice that he loads his brush by quickly slapping it 3-4 times against the side of the can, not by lifting it up and wiping it off against the inner rim. His method is faster, doesn't compress the bristles as much or as unevenly as wiping them against the rim, doesn't create a mess inside the can from the rim down, and also leaves more paint in the brush, which means that reloading is also less frequent.
You need to talk about the first stroke where you are creating a paint reservoir to spread the paint. Moving it towards the center of the crease. Then. How its better to have a little excess on the ceiling than not enough on the walls. Also, I think its important to make the first cut as good as you can get it.I agree with straightening it out better later. But if you do it right the first time theres very little left to straighten. And you fly.I like your banjo music. I am the golden brush. Retired. I appreciate you helping others with your video. If you ever need my advice. I have 40 years experience as a journeyman painter, hanger.Good luck brother.
Hey bro. I am a very beginner and I am in a job where I need to paint the house. Thehouse is painted already so mainly needs to have only one coat. But I feel very slow. In 16 hours of work I did one room and the ceiling of one toilet and some area in between rooms. The first 5 hours of the job my friend helped me
Yes correct... Priming the brush before starting the job says brother of the brush... Note how he taps both sides of the inside of his can before applying the paint... Thats to put 'er [paint] heavy on the brush [so you get good distance when applying/efficiency] and in same breath taking off more of the paint than is needed to help prevent dripping or sagging in drying paint after applying... In essence it's giving you enough paint on the brush to let you go far in spread distance but not too much that you may end up with too much on the surface that you get the drip or sagging issues... Basically it's the middle ground or lukewarm region between hot and cold... It gives decent coverage ability that way too... [Meaning cut in gets the smeary paint look where not enough paint was applied and you can see the paint coat beneath you are going over...] As for the tapping on inside of paint can and preparing to cut along ceiling corner line in video you saw the painter work backwards into the paint that was already applied... I would do exactly that then... I personally would have gone back the opposite way a second time along the ceiling corner to straighten that paint line to laser straight and worked the brush outwards from the paint you just applied... The key in painting is working it in [rolling or cutting] BOTH directions... In all aspects of painting... When you don't you get speckles in your wall rolling and uneven/un-straight to the eyeball ceiling lines... 'Oh and that slopping of the paint he did before starting to cut the ceiling corner line??? Thats called priming the axe... So you know the difference between it and priming the brush even though both terms relate to priming the brush in preparation for the spreading/applying... Cause axes cut well... Just a way to understand when speaking about it while training... Both instances of priming are needed to get a good cut line none the less... Otherwise you will load up that corner and you won't like the end result... Opposite of straight as a laser line...
I've been painting for 50 years, after 4 year apprenticeship. I've found that a straight, rather than an angle brush allows one to cut in in both directions. speed equals money.
I've been a professional painter and decorator for 20years.. trust me you'll never cut in like a pro because it takes years to master.. my advice would be to use frog tape. Hope that's helpful 👍
Daniel Biggs thank you,I have purchased some frog tape today. I took my time to put it on I’ve done 2 coats will do another coat tomorrow and fingers crossed, thanks for taking the time to reply you’re a star
@@MrBradblade no problem pal.. Another trick of the trade would be paint your ceiling the same colour as the walls. As long as the colour is not to dark you'll get away with it. Really does work. I paint new build houses. And alot of the big builders do it. A great colour to use is dulux almond white. You're celling will look white and your walls look almond white and perfect cutting in lines except you've done no cutting in👍
Slower you go = more wavey the line will be You have to go somewhat quick Also. Start the new colour on the old paint and work towards the new stuff you just cut in If you start where the new paint is and work towards the old paint You actually thin out the new colour and will have a harder time on the 2nd coat cause it will be thick then thin then thick then thin..
You're using a sash brush designed for window sashes and only meant to go in one direction. First year apprentice training, always finish into wet so you don't get jab marks.With acrylic paints like promar 200 it works best to roll first to avoid double coating at the cut in. You can control the cut to the rolled area. Try it it is much faster, saves paint and looks much better.
Agreed. Cannot detect any coverage issues on a second coat that is within say 1/8 inch from the outermost line of the first coat. Something else he didn't describe or show: A person can push a pencil into the ceiling/wall joint and slightly mark a line all the way around. Then, those hard to see corners are easily handled, because the smart painter can then see the joint. I am also right handed but learned to draw the brush in the opposite direction than that being shown. I will, however, use the right-to-left technique minimally to reach out before moving the ladder. Been painting professionally for 50 years and was taught by an expert back then.
And one more thing. Lots of time today's paint comes very thick - too dang thick to cut in properly. It is wise to thin the paint to be used for cutting in, so that it will flow properly allowing those longer strokes that make straight lines. Typically the paint can be thinned minimally in the cut-in bucket only and the applied straight from the bucket with rollers.
Good job, nice video. Just a tip for all the young and aspiring painters out there. Stay off your knees and stretch your legs. You will be to go faster and longer as you get older. ;)
Hi Remi! It’s sooo neat! What happens when you get some paint on the wood work? I used masking tape but it’s such a faff. I’d love to be able to do it like you are! Any advice?
Keep a damp cloth handy as it will wipe off easy before it drys. You can also look at caulking a new line and painting with a paint shield, but you will need very square and level walls to get a sharp line. One of the best things to do to practice cutting in sharp lines is the stick some masking tape in straight lines on a wall (that is going to be decorated) then practice cutting against the masking tape trying not to go over the line.
Most union trained tradesman do use a 3in straight cut for cutting in walls. The type of paint and humidity will determine the type of filaments needed.
Do you have any tips for cutting in with very textured walls? My walls have some sort of texture that was like plaster scraped on with a trowel? so that buts up against my crown molding and my floor trim. Great videos thank so much!
Hello Rémi, first I would like to sincerely thank you for all of your helpful painting videos. I only have a year and a half of painting experience so I still have everything to learn. I'm curious if you have a preferred brand of brushes, roller sleeves and rollers. I work for a renovation and construction company in Québec and we buy Aqualine and Jasper brushes (mostly synthetic since we mostly work in latex paint) which are the best we've used so far. We try to always have an army of brushes on hand but we mostly use two and a half angle sash brushes and despite cleaning and storage, they still lose their form and spring after two job sites max. I've heard there are brushes and sleeves that could last a lifetime! Same principle with roller sleeves (we never clean ours - just toss them) and we buy Richard, ,Rona, Uberhaus, or Simms rollers and sleeves. Any preferences or suggestions? And thank you again!
Hi Tiffany, I have never worked with those brushes but I can tell you that a brush being out of shape after 2 jobs doesn't seem normal to me. Two things are important in order to maintain the brushes: 1- Proper Cleaning (see my video about how to wash brushes and rollers) 2- Proper storage in their original cases As for the roller sleeves, typically a roller doesn't work the best the first time you use it. So if you're throwing it out after each use you're never working with a proper roller sleeve. This effect is more evident in wooven rollers. As for my preferred brushes I like Nours Nature's Palette and Wooster Extra Firm both in the 2.5 inch sash. For roller sleeves it depends on what I'm painting. Ceiling I prefer a thicker wooven roller from Purdy. Walls I prefer a micro fiber roller 13mm. For cages and extension poles I'm a big fan of Wooster mostly because of the quick release system :)
+Brent Gearhart I'm not sure exactly what you mean by this. Could you send me an email with more information and a picture if possible. My email is on my website :)
You need a little sample container of the same gloss paint. Fill the holes with spackling compound, and make sure it's wiped off smooth before it dries.
I’m in the process of decorating for the first time but I have t blended my edges so I can clearly see the difference between brush and roller. Can this be fixed? Tia!
How I wish I knew when I have the right amount of paint on my brush for cut-ins…and a steady hand so I can get that straight cut-in so effortlessly LIKE YOU DO! 😣
In regards to a beginner, would you recommend cutting in one wall at a time, roll then moving on to the next wall to keep a wet edge on hot summer days???
I have painted for many years and never had a problem with the transition from brush to roll. I'll do cut in all around a room and then roll it. You could also roll walls first on your firstcoat. If you get a quality brush the marks are not as noticeable and remember to fade out your cut-ins especially the wall meeting the ceiling. Quality paint, brush and roller nap will get you a professional finish.
As a designer with enough info, I advice you to use washable glossy paint for bathrooms for next time if you already finished. Moisture is a huge problem ~ if you are using dry normal Paint, it isn't ideal and will come off in dear sweet short time :( Of course tiling bathroom walls is much more efficient Good luck :)
Do you do 2 coats of the edges before you use the roller to paint the whole wall? Or 1 coat on the edges and wall then repeat the whole procedure for a 2nd coat?
depends on what type of paint. eggshell for instance you cut one wall then roll it before you move on...then repeat. flat paint you can cut entire room twice then roll twice.
Mark Laker my pleasure :) If you haven't already, there's a lot more info that you could get at Expressions Painting University. Check out the PAINTER Training Program. It's FREE for now :)
as a painter myself those were definitely good tips. ....1- Always get a good brush (preferably a stiff or med stiff... better brushes are rated) definitely worth the money as they are re-usable after a good wash.... 2- have a cutting can with approx 1 inch of paint in it..... I was taught the and have been "loading" my brush the same way as you did in this video by dipping into paint & then BANGING the brush on the can side to side (it allows the paint "inside" the brush) ... too many people dip & then wipe off most of the paint on the can .... 3- excellent tip of painting close to but not right to the edge , followed by the "perfecting" of the 2nd cut ..... this is OVERALL significantly faster and insures ideal coverage .... and great tip of long elongated and ideally un-interrupted strokes when the brush is properly loaded (should be able to stroke twice or longer than demonstrated) and great tip of fading paint .............. also great tip on to be careful of the paint that is sitting on top of the brush once you push the brush onto the wall ...
PLEASE ADVISE Great videos but the playlist is in a random order Please provide a list from first to last step Also I wanted to ask, you are cutting on top of the gloss paint around the door frames. Do you need to sand the shine off the gloss first or can you paint Matt straight onto gloss paint? Thanks in advance
Cut roll... Cut roll. Sometimes you're able to get away with cut cut roll roll with lighter colors but it is still strongly recommended to cut first and then roll
These vids are great! Be kind- amateur question from a first time decorator. Can I second coat 'cut in's before I've even touched a roller for the rest of the big mid sections of wall or is it always best to cut in, roll, cut in, roll? Thanks!
Hi Remi, A big thank you for all your videos, they are a big help! Is it normal to have very small cracks in the corners (hairline crack), not everywhere, but at some places, the paint in the corner seems to crack a little, I use 100% latex acrylic paint. Am i doing something wrong? Thank you and have a nice day
