How to Delete Brake Vacuum Pump on a 2014+ GM Truck or SUV 

Check the crankcase for debris that could obstruct the oil pump pickup

You can delete the manifold pcv and route the valve covers to the atmosphere, catch cans only work for drag racing or very short stints anyway

@@BadAssEngineering Thanks this was very helpful.

If I already have a airaid modular intake tube how would I delete the nozzles for the breathers? And what did you do to cap off the pcv?

Are you talking about engine mounts? For the Gen Vs?

Did you have the original faulty vacuum pump design? Or did you wreck after a vacuum pump replacement? Debating between this delete mod, or having a dealership install the new vacuum pump design.

Anytime, bud. Dont forget thread the other details on the forum

@@BadAssEngineering most definitely. I'll be doing this mod when I pickup a programer.

You broke which pedal???

That's what mine did too ticking gone now

Funny how many pumps have failed that GM has special coverage for 10 yr/150k to replace them. But yeah engineers, go figure.

And where the gunk that comes out of that pcv goes?

You are an idiot if you think that gm engineers are competent. Engineers are the smartest dumbest people I know unless they have field experience that's why gm engineers did away with the pump in 19 or wait afm was super BA idea. Go troll someone that deserves it.

Update please 🙏

You could also add a good check valve so boost from the manifold doesn't go into the booster, or do the electric pump but I don't have any experience with those tho

They run to the exhaust via a Crankcase evacuation system

@@BadAssEngineering Do you have a video on how you set this up on your truck? I am very interested! Thanks

@@robertscimeca1768 not yet, but will make one soon

michael i used a heavy duty brake line hose for trucking applications

What do you think about adding a jegs vacuum reservoir in line. And if your engine stalled you still have backnup vacuum and will still have brakes

michael I don't have any experience with that, but the brake booster should have enough reservoir for a couple of pumps after engine shutdown

Thats fine, you just delete the crankcase-to-manifold line like i did in the video

All right cool thanks I'm going to knock it out this weekend thanks man 🤙🏼

Paul No you don't. If you delete the manifold PCV line, pcv vapors will enter the engine via the valve cover breathers. Most PCV vapors get vented that way anyway!

Spencer Dean it should be fine as long as you deactivate the afm to always run the engine in V6 mode

Josh I guess you could, but catch cans in the vacuum line don't do anything to prevent carbon buildup (most of the vapors go out the valve covers anyway)

Catch cans don't really work other than on drag cars

I see we have better engineers on here than we do at the Chevrolet place

Gerwin Filmz not really, there are AFM range timers as well. A custom tune is what I wanted for myself tho

just put into M5 (if your truck is 09' or above) and the V4 mode will never be activated unless you put it back into D or M6

Physically doing a DOD/AFM delete is ridiculously more expensive

@@BadAssEngineering the physical delete of AFM requires new lifters and a new cam. It's a significant remove and replace process, and significantly more costly than re-programming to delete the AFM/DOD function or purchasing the Range module (~$200) to disable AFM/DOD

That is not related

Catch cans only work for drag racing applications. It only works for a few minutes at a time when the vessel is cold. There is no real use when using one on a street car; most of the pcv vapors go out the valve cover vents into the air box anyway

I have never used an AFM disabler, but for what it costs, getting a tune for a little extra gave me much more advantages. Also; do the Throttle pedal stick mod for more response

I have the Range afm disabler and it works perfectly. The car doesn't go into V4 and shifts much better also .

@@BadAssEngineering what’s the more response from the pedal mod??

@@braylonwoodell5465 search for Silverado paint stick throttle 👀

Did your vacuum pump fail before you did the delete ?

Michael toma No, diesel engines don't have throttle bodies, intake manifold is never under vacuum. Don't do it, this procedure is only for L83/L86 Gasoline engines

I don't know, the easy way of doing that would be to try the plug and sending unit in either hole, and if doesn't work, switch

To The Exhaust using a Crankcase Evacuation System (Moroso 25900)

Not really no

Yes

All that pressure goes out the valve cover breathers into the throttle body, caping the pcv is non consequential in these engines

Yup

Around 3 feet

You might want to check the brake booster itself, but if the brake works well and it doesn't feel hard it should bebok

To the exhaust using an Evac

The problem with the pump is that it fails and debris get I to the engine oil system, that's why we are removing them all together

Nope, nothing

Catch cans don't work, my pcv goes to a crankcase evac to the exhaust

So you have a evac system . Is it a summit evac

@@cheetoz6902 Moroso 25900, but i guess a summit kit is the same

You can use a Diablo handheld tuner or a Custom HP tuners to do it

@@BadAssEngineering Thanks :)

The White Whale you will have to do more modifications to the vacuum line, like having bypasses and check valves to not let boost go to the brake booster. It gets more complex when boosting.

BadAssEngineering yes, I already have the 3/8 check valve and a catch can. My pump ticks and I want to get rid of it lol. But my curiosity is that I’m feeding from the valley to the catch can and then from can to im. So if I reroute from the IM to the booster where would I feed the catch can back to? Or would I simply just have to add a tee at the I’m connection and have a check valve in both lines. No much info on these newer trucks and supporting mods. Like everyone we are learning as we go lol

The White Whale I would get rid of the Can or vent it to atmosphere. Also you could run a crankcase evacuation system like the one I'm running. Moroso PN 25900

BadAssEngineering interesting. You should put a vid out on that. I would be interested to see the benefit of the evac system and how it’s installed vs using the catch can system. I end up having a ton of blow by into my catch can. But you have done great with the video and help with a few of my curiosity’s

The White Whale catch cans that recirculate to the intake manifold are a swivel LOL

on the front of the block** i used a rubber cap, autozone sells assortments on various rubber vacuum cap sizes

@@BadAssEngineering Have you noticed any oil consumption after turning off the afm with the tuner?

@@Chief6067 no, nothing

Oil catch cans only work when they're cold (literally minutes). Once the engine bay gets hot, the dirty vapors just go through. There's no use on using one on street vehicles, and a waste of money

@@BadAssEngineering Fair enough but I’m also adding Stage 3 cam, LT headers & exhaust/ intake. For my original question, will the vacuum for oil catch can & brake booster together work?

@@The_Fat_Pipefitter i wouldn't do that just to avoid any chance of getting dirty vapors into the brake booster. Why do you want a catch can ? Most crankcase pressure goes out the head covers into the throttle body anyway...

@@BadAssEngineering Direct Injection mostly. Would a vacuum manifold be ideal or just get a throttle body spacer with a fitting for the booster?

@@The_Fat_Pipefitter a throttle body spacer could indeed work well, you could test that

Most likely yes, it's the same principle that electronically avoids the V4 mode from engaging right ?

No, Sounds like some other problem. I dont know what could be causing it, but i would check the booster and master cylinder

Sounds like a proportioning valve sticking

The stock fittings sending the valleys down the exhaust using an Evac 👀👀

@@BadAssEngineering have any more pictures of that?

With cylinder deactivation mode on V4, there is not enough vacuum in the manifold to operate the brake booster. It's a liability thing

Tyler Kaluza no, you don't touch anything before the throttle body to do this delete. You can have a stock airbox or cold air, doesn't matter

@@BadAssEngineering what about the pcv lines what do you get for those

Tyler Kaluza I have a Crankcase Scavenging System to the exhaust

@@BadAssEngineering you have to have that? The crankcase scavaging system

Tyler Kaluza no, they're independent systems that don't interfere with each other

You just cap it, all the PCV goes out the valve covers anyway

@@BadAssEngineering What did you cap it with?

@@Chief6067 Autozone Rubber Vaccum Caps

@@BadAssEngineering Did you need to secure the vacuum cap with any kind of clamp? Don’t mean to ask so many questions but I want to do this on my truck and just want to be sure Awesome video too

@@Chief6067 Questions are always appreciated! a black zip tie well tightened on the cap is more than enough.

You remove it, it doesn't do much to prevent carbon build up anyway

@@BadAssEngineering lol

Catch cans only work when cold, and Most pcv gases go to the intake from the valve covers anyway, there is no point in keeping it

@@BadAssEngineering awesome, if you dont mind me asking one more question, where is your valve covers vented to? I see you have a hose coming from them but where does it go? And do you just leave the PCV valve open once you disconnect the line?

@@brandinharrison935 my valve covers feed the pcv gasses to an Exhaust Evacuation System, also called "evac". It uses the exhaust flow vacuum to pull the pcv gasses from the engine

@@BadAssEngineering is the evac system needed to safely do the pcv delete?

@@brandinharrison935 no, it is not. you can delete your pcv line and use it for the brake booster only, most gasses go out the valve covers into the intake air box anyway. The manifold pcv line only pulls a little bit of gas when there is vacuum on the manifold

You don't delete the fitting from the manifold, you use it to connect the manifold to the booster. The line that originally goes from the manifold to the pcv under the throttle body is deleted

@@BadAssEngineering hmmm. Ok. I’ll look closer tomorrow but mine is a 2017 with a 6.2. The line from the throttle body runs on top the intake with no connection or fitting to latch onto. It runs as a hose/line straight all the way back and down the firewall. The one you showed had a pcv fitting to connect to, where I don’t think I have that. Which could almost be easier if I just ran that line from intake to the brake booster fitting, but I’m not sure that’ll work. Unless I’m missing fittings somewhere but I have no connection to go to, unless it’s in the back of the engine down along the firewall.

@@jaybilawchuk2225 careful, there is a line to the manifold that pulls the evap from the fuel tank, the other is the pcv. The pcv on 6.2s are in a different place than on 5.3s

@@BadAssEngineering ahh ok. That makes sense why I’m not finding the proper line to connect to. I’ll try look tomorrow to find where that would be on the 6.2. I’m not sure where it’ll be but you are probably right saying the line I was talking about goes to evap for the tank. That looks exactly where it is going. I’ll have to research for the 6.2’s.

Blair Barham no, because my pump was fine. If yours is making sound I would swap/delete it immediately

You may not be hearing your vacuum pump. Your engine has a built in mechanical fuel pump that increases fuel pressure for the direct injection. 2014 and some 2015 engines make significant noise from that pump.

@@daveo211 this is a long shot since I see this comment is a year old...but I just bought a 2015 GMC Sierra and it has a pretty noticeable whining sound compared to any other truck I have owned ,seems like it is coming from the vacuum pump but I cant tell for sure, it sounds like when a power steering pump is low on fluid but since this truck has electronic power steering that cant be. even my mechanic cant figure it out he suspects the vacuum pump but admittedly is not sure. if it is just a normal sound for this truck then maybe I will just live with it but it really is like nails on a chalkboard for me . I hear it especially when I first start engine as the rpm lowers down just a low growl/ whine. driving me crazy trying to figure out.I have heard other trucks same year do have this sound but it seems wrong to me. I have it recorded and willing to PAY someone to listen to it and give me their thoughts. I really cant stand it. coming from a toyota tundra that ran without any issues for over 400,000 miles this truck seems delicate and honestly cheap.paid $27,000 for a truck with 80k miles so I am hoping I am not looking at some serious issue here. my thoughts range from torque converter to water pump, fuel pump, vacuum pump. had entire transmission replaced because I was told that was the issue by another mechanic and that didnt fx it either...(luckily warranty covered that even though it ended up not being the issue) I just want it to stop sounding like shit.

@@AsTheWheelsTurn oil pump

I don't hear any noises on mine, I would check if at any point there is a leak on the line or the connections

Josh, i have this sucking noise too on my 6.2 after doing this mod. Did you ever find the cause or solution? Thanks

You have a leak in your brake booster up top when this pump goes bad it gets oil in them.

Any fix for it mines doing the same thing.

@@JUANCRAMIREZ19 It fixed mine now I have brakes I can count on

Remoje catch can that doesn't prevent carbon build up and your manifold pcv should be in front around the throttle body

You can but there is the risk of not enough vacuum for the brake booster

It's the direct pcv case-to-manifold like, you can just cap it off in this case (what I did)

@@BadAssEngineering thanks for the reply. Can you suggest what to use to cap it?

@@resid3nt I removed the line and capped the nipples with an autozone rubber cap kit

@@BadAssEngineering right on brother. BTW, I also do the same burnouts lol

@@resid3nt when you cap that little pcv line, all pcv vapors go out the valve cover breathers anyway, so you should be just fine

No, newer 2014+ trucks have electric assisted power steering. Even if they had, it would have nothing to do with the vacuum pump

nope

If you don't have AFM disabled then yes

These engines have collapsible lifters in 4 of the cylinders, the ECU activates them so the valves on those 4 cylinders remain closed while shutting spark and fuel, so the engine only runs on the other 4 cylinders. While working on V4 mode, the engine doesn't produce enough vacuum to run the brake booster. Using an ECU tune to disable the AFM is desirable, because these engine collapsible lifters are known to fail anywhere from brand new to hundreds of thousands of miles.

You could try that

You could have no brakes when cruising in V4 mode

At least they make it very easy for us to fix it LOL

Toyota is great. I have way more faith in my 07 Tacoma than my 14 Chevy

Check the codes, sounds more like an o2 sensor shorted out

@@BadAssEngineering no codes untill I did this but like I said not sure if this caused it or just something else thinking of putting a t connection there to see if codes return

@@douglasroberts487 check for any vacuum leaks, but most likely it's unrelated

You just cap it shut, they sell those rubber caps on autozone in an assorted kit

You will

Yes, it has nothing to do with that

Thanks!!!

With a little 3/8" hose cap

Awesome so just cap that one off and want though a engin code ? I appreciate it

@@samjackson8898 it won't throw any codes, all of the PCV pressure horas out the valve cover hoses anyway

Awesome thank you our vacuum pump went out 500 miles from home on vacation and this will be easy Lowe’s /autozone fix especially since I have no tools on the road thanks 👍

I am going to cut the belt off leave the vacuum pump on and cap hose coming off of it as well Till I get Home and order the vacuum delete kit I appreciate ur videos

All you would need is a check valve in the line

jesus hernandez No, but I didn't want it to start causing problems

@@BadAssEngineering have u heard of it knocking real loud...

i would take that off, those dont even prevent carbon buildup

Don't run a catch can, they stop condensing the oil after q couple of minutes. Catch cans are meant to run for short periods of time like drag racing...

​@BadAssEngineering idk about that. Installed catch can at 50k and now at 150k.

@@viixiconik lol remove your intake manifold and see how those ports look

Andrew The pcv line is capped to the block. The manifold has pure vacuum and no oil getting in

I’m surprised more people aren’t doing this on the forums. A lot of people mention drilling and tapping a line into the manifold. Do you happen to know the amount of vacuum the pcv line provides?

@@andrewgreen7886 Drilling and tapping into plastic is not a great idea. I didn't check how much vacuum is produced at idle, but it should be more than -20 inHg, since the brake pedal feels better than it was before

I just tested with my finger the difference between vacuum pulled from pump and what the port on the manifold pulls and honestly there are exactly the same. In fact, I feel the manifold vacuum feels stronger than the pump. I will be doing this by next weekend. I’m going to get the block plugs from the dealer today. What did you do to cap the pcv valve?

Andrew Green you can buy a set of Rubber caps at autozone to plug the Block side of the PCV like I did on the beginning of the video. It's a 3/8 size

Julio Ruiz al escape para ventilar los gases de la pcv. Es un Exhaust Scavenging System. Número de parte Moroso 25900.

BadAssEngineering le quiero quitar la bomba de vacío a una sierra 2016 tienes imágenes de paso a paso es que tengo una duda en una manguera que veo que le pusiste en la tapa de punterías pero nomás veo que está abajo del boster

Se le puede quita el vacumm pump sin desinstalar el afm ?

Rafael De Lima I don't think so, you should check for leaks in the manifold or a bad MAF.

I can't find no leak might be the MAF. I cleaned it let see if code comes back. Chevrolet said they will replace the pump but I think I just gonna delete it. Is there like a delete kit somewhere?

Rafael De Lima the delete kit is a couple of plug bolts, all the info is there in the video. P0172 code means the engine is running rich, it should not related to the Brake Vacuum system on 2014+ GM Trucks

I know that! The reason I ask is before vaccum leak in one of the reasons to get that code.

Rafael De Lima did you check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the manifold/airbox?