Today, we take apart the Benchmade bugout, first doing a bit of exploratory disassembly, then using the "integral" method for the rest. But getting it back to "normal" proves tougher than expected.
To improve centering, upon reassembly I keep the scale screws fairly loose and tighten the pivot screw very tightly BEFORE I tighten the scale screws. Positioning the scales (microscopically) fore and aft then completely controls the centering of the blade. When you like the way it looks, firmly tighten the scale screws. NOW you can back off the pivot screw, "jiggle" the blade from side to side and then adjust/optimize the pivot screw. The blade should stay centered. Yes, a 1/10 of a turn on the pivot screw can make a big difference in the 'free fall v blade play,' compromise, but the centering should no longer be a problem. ...Works for me!
Coffee ejected thru nose when you said: "If you lean your finger on it the centering is good." You've got the tenacity of a bulldog, and the patience of Jobe. Great combo!
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0:10 "I am going to do a full disassembly." 4:20 "There not lot of benefit to be gain from it." 4:50 "If it save this from becoming a 30 min odyssey" Video is 30:57 min. Thanks for showing the lines anyway.
Thank you Nick for this video. I just purchased a bugout and it was extremely sticky and stiff. I adjusted pivot screw and lubricated but nothing really changed. All I had to do was adjust the top screw above axis lock and now it's perfect, it was extremely tight. Now the movement is smooth with zero blade play and I can use axis lock as intended! Thanks, keep it up!
It's 2023 and my out of the box bugout is so stiff, it won't flick or close without using two hands. I've gently loosened the pivot bit, now it launches better. But now I'm afraid I'm going to eventually lose the screw
An easy way to get keep your washers in the same place, and also to get everything back in easier is to use fishing line. Knock your pivot out and run about 12 inches of fishing line through, then tie the ends together. When you slip your blade and washers out, you basically create a knife parts "key ring." (Or necklace, depending on how long you made your fishing line.) Clean and lube everything, then get the blade and washer sandwich started back into the handle. Finally pulling the string tight, you align all of the holes back up for your pivot. Cut string and replace pivot. Easy assembly, nothing gets lost, and guaranteed to go back together in the exact same order. Came up with this for my benchmade presidio ultra, years ago. #somewhatbrilliantman.
Between the video and this comment, I feel very confident about switching my scales tomorrow. Thank you for taking the time to add your thoughts. I love the edc/knife community.
Those washers have a "flat edge" side and a slightly rounded side. If you ensure the "flat edge" side of each washer is against the blade it works perfect, at least from what I have found. I rebuild a lot of commercial diving helmets and in some of the regulators on the helmets there are washers, very similar to the ones in the knife, that must be installed "flat edge" first otherwise it can cause airflow problems the deeper you are. Ever since I learned about that I've never looked at a washer the same way again! Thanks for the great video Nick.
Hey Nick, thank you for your informative video. I just ordered today a Benchmade 535gry-1 bugout from a vendor in Finland (free shipping and no import taxes to Italy). The most important fact I learned from this video is: if your knife works correctly, avoid disassembly it.
"Some blade play." "Way too tight." "Blade play." "Too tight." "Now blade play." One definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again while expecting a different result...
Well said. I got aftermarket frag scales for mine & can't get it back together. I failed to watch some videos on swapping the scales & took the entire Axis lock mechanism apart. I screwed it back together minus the pivot. It's all in in a zip lock bag. I'm working on it.. 😒
@@WhstlblwrBlastingEpsteinsPalsto be fair I think the bugout is an absolute bitch to put back together haha. I have had the axis springs break on me twice and it always gives me anxiety having to get this thing back together haha
Thanks for this real experience video. Sometimes a video makes everything look easy and when you try it at home it's tough. Thanks for showing your efforts and ultimate success.
thanks Nick for the guidance, I took a part my Mini-bugout with this video, it was multiple circles of hell for me to get the pivot back in, but I did not have take apart the Axis lock portion. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Nick, for another helpful Maintenance video! I have been watching your videos for some time now, and want to take this opportunity to thank you, for all that you do for the knife community. I would also like to take a moment, if I may please? To add a bit, as a knife maintenance public service. You may have mentioned this before at some point? But I know that I have not heard it from you. It would be a good idea, if you mentioned from time to time, on these type of videos. That after all is said and done, and the knife is adjusted to our liking. That the knife needs to be set off to the side for awhile. To give the Loctite some time to set up. I often imagine, that the uninitiated, may continue to play with the knife, after it has been cleaned, put all back together, and adjusted. The chances then are pretty good, that the pivot will back off some, while the Loctite is still wet. You know this, and I know this, but some of the newer players to knife maintenance, may not. Blue 242 Loctite, starts to set in approximately 10 minutes, but is not fully cured for 24 hours. Given that it was applied in an oil and grease free environment. I have to also add. That while you do like the blue Loctite, and are very sparing with it. And, I have to assume that you've had good luck going this blue route as well. Loctite does recommend that a 222 purple threadlocker be used for this type of work. It is designed specifically for fasteners under 1⁄4" (6 mm). Which is the case here, with folding knives. Thanks again Nick.
Thanks so much for the pain you went through in this video. Your pain saved me the same pain. I couldn’t figure out why the action was crap after I put on new scales. Who would have guessed that it uses asymmetrical washers? You’re the man!
Thank you for doing the video and posting it with the struggle to reassemble. I had the same issue with my bugout, probably the most finicky knife I’ve owned. There are more options to change out hardware, but I prefer my Hogue Deka as my regular daily carry.
First want to start by saying love the videos. I do have to say I kind of enjoyed watching you struggle with this knife. The only reason was because I just swapped the scales on mine today and man did I have trouble with lining up that pivot pin and washers. I almost gave up! It probably didn’t help that I had a peanut gallery commenting behind me waiting on me so we could run some errands. Keep them coming thanks for making me feel a little bit better.
The joys of bugouts Turns 0.00000001 degree = rock solid, barely opens Loosens 0.00000005 degrees = floppier than a fish Tightens 0.000000005 degrees = even more rock solid plus floppy Throws knife in drawer to be dealt with tomorrow 😂
Thanks so much for this video Nick. I’m taking apart/sharpening a friend’s Bugout and immediately went to your channel for the knowledge. I know the washers were super frustrating, I had the same issue on a Boker. A lot of times it’s just because the parts (washers in this case) have worn in a certain way. The cars I work on are very particular, and I run into similar issues all the time. Things always have to go back exactly as they were 😂 thanks again and hope you’re doing well.
Thanks for the walkthrough. Was replacing the scales on mine and doing some cleaning so thought it would be a good idea to check out someone else’s approach first, save myself some headache. Just to add to this: 1. Check which side of the washers are facing the blade. These washers are manufactured on a stamp press so there will likely be a side with a slight burr or lip and another side that is smooth. Smooth side goes next to the blade. 2. Pull the axis lock back when installing the pivot pin. I think Nick was doing this just by the way he happened to be holding it. It will be extremely hard to push it through while the lock in engaged. Hope this helps anyone doing it themselves.
You’re a lifesaver, Nick - got my new Full Immunity today and the action out of the box was stiff to say the least. I followed along with this video (another Benchmade Axis lock) and I was able to take the knife down and lube the pivot without, well, TOO much difficulty. ;) (First time I’d ever taken a Benchmade apart.) Thanks for posting this!
I bought a Bugout a few days ago at my local brick and mortar. As soon as I handled the thing, the price didn't matter. Centering great, action fantastic, and drop shutty once I pull the axis lock. I can't seem to put the damned thing down. Sorry you had such a rough time Nick.
Bought one of these last Sunday. As much as I love the overall design and feel of the knife the blade centering and action is slightly under par. Overall would buy it again but I now know what the benchmade quality control gripes are for. I cannot center my blade perfect and either to tight or have blade play. Alot of fidget work to get that "acceptable" working order of the knife.
I just disassembled mine, and the pivot was fairly jammed in the dang thing. I had to actually remove both scales to get it out. However, I did keep track of my washers, and after some serious fiddling to get the core of the knife back on the scales, and then even more extended fiddling to get the stupid pivot through, I got it back together and was able to get it better centered, and it is smoother. This was after 2 weeks of wearing it in first, it just wasn't smooth like I wanted it until I put better lube on the washers.
After hours on the bench, I finally called Benchmade, answer was so simple, Pull Back on the Axis lock button!!! Of course if we take any Benchmade apart it voids the Warranty.?? .thanks for all of your great Advice NICK..😁😉🦊
I love the fact you did not fast forward and stuck through the whole stumbling process. It reminds of meticulous things like truing a bike wheel or properly tuning an ornery guitar. I thought my first Benchmade (a Freek) had stiff/scratchy play out of the box. Lube fixed it. Apparently lube is required for somethings even when new :) I think it wasn't the washers for you, though, but rather the tightening process. My jaw dropped when I saw you attack the scales first.
The first part is valuable to me. I want mostly to install aftermarket scales. I want to remove one side at a time, without losing any parts (esp. the Omega springs)!
I have the carbon fiber bugout which im about to tear down for the first time, and to be honest, im a little bit terrified. I really dont want to mess up this knife, considering its a gift from my mother in law, so im hoping to gain some real insight from your tutorial, and im thankful for it. I wouldnt be doing this maintenance right now if it wasnt for the fact that its dirty on the inside, and the action is poor. Thank you again.
Good stuff purchased a clone just to take apart see if I could put copper scales on flytanium. The liner bolts won't fit the clone had teflon washers? Plastic? Ordering a original. It actually helped me in a total different area doing this. Let's just say a foundation of original design is difficult to copy. Thank you!
Been carrying this most days since Aug 2018. One Omega spring broke in half today. Picked up the knife and half the spring fell into my palm. Bummer cuz I’ll hafta shelve it for a bit. Very helpful vid. 👍👍
It works better to keep track of which way the washers face and to which side of the blade it belongs. You’re having problems with centering and blade play because you swapped the washers around.
Being more clear, yes, that would have made thing easier here. But I should NOT have to do that, and for 98% of Knives, doesn’t matter. They need to up their game.
Awfully sad that benchmade are put together so sadly that merely swapping, supposedly flat, washers throws the whole knife into disarray. Not a good thing and certainly not excusable for a 100$ plus knife. Even for a 80$ knife it's unacceptable.
I’m about to put Cu scales on an identical blue Bugout. The action is PERFECT, so I am a little apprehensive about how it will go! I’ll let you know how it went…
Washers come out of a bin full of "to spec" washers. They have VERY tight specs, having been cut by the zillions from rolls/sheets of metal. It's VERY easy to maintain extremely tight tolerance of washer thickness. (Put all the "pairs of" washers you ever come across into your micrometer and you will be convinced they are interchangeable!) Two washers (by no means a "pair") are randomly pulled out of the bin for each knife. Swapping washers is playing a game of ±.0001". While you are swapping washers and retightening everything, you are messing with other variables that you are discounting. The reassembly sequence is everything, the washer position is nil.
IMPORTANT- Reassembling is easy. Start with the liners, washers, and blade like a normal rebuild. Use the pivot bolt temporarily. Then install springs and stop pin. Now you can install the "cartridge" into the show side scale, screw it in. Install standoffs in show side scale. Carefully remove pivot and install opposite scale and immediately put the pivot into place. Done!
Shiny washer side towards the blade, graphite dry lube or pencil works best on the tang and contact points, even axis bar. Loosen scales on the side that the blade its off on when centering. Pull the knife up to full 12oclock. Push the knife towards the direction that the centering if off. NOT opposite. The direction that's it's already leaning towards Tighten scales. Tweak tension on the barrel.
to relocate the washers, the pressure of the blocking axis must be relieved, which may be done by introducing a toothpick in the opening, maintaining the axis locked and fixed.
I bought my first benchmade, a mini grip that was giving me the same problem as you have here, and what I ended up doing was lightly sanding the washers on a fine whet stone then polished them on a strop. The action is really smooth and no blade play now.
Nick, thanks for making this video. I finally got around to disassembling my bugout this morning and your video was extremely helpful. Action is dramatically improved. I abuse my bugout and the gunk I got out was impressive lol. Thanks!
I fixed the centering by putting two tiny balls of plastic bag material on each side btw the scales and liners. On each side I put one on each side of the washer.
I’m going nuts trying to put my pivot back on…and side to side action is something I don’t like from many knife companies…I guess Chris Reeve spoiled us with his tight tolerances.
I know you know this, but there is a smoother side of the washer. That side needs to touch the blade. I usually will use 1000 grit sand paper on bothe sides of the washers and that helps as well. Best of luck!
So lemme ask is there anyway for benchmade to know if you disassembled it? I want to swap out my scales for micarta ones but don't want to loose my warranty
On mine the stop pin screw is out a little more on the clip side and in a little more on the opposite side and the centering is perfect. Not sure if that has do to with anything but I haven’t taken it apart and have only had it a few days so far. Love the knife btw. So easy to carry for how much blade you get.
Love your videos and your thoroughness, you have saved me from buying several knives I would not have been happy with. For some reason I find myself always looking at Benchmade knives and there's always something I really dislike. I hate the partial liner to cut weight, being someone that uses my knife as a tool on a daily basis and not a letter opener I need durability.
I'm dealing with this now, I just received my first Benchmade a bugout, now I've watched all these videos about other models, I'm seeing full liner in almost all others except the bugout. It really seems like a EDC knife should has full liners 🤷🏼♂️ so now I would like a different Benchmade to carry.
IF YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE WITH REINSTALLING THE MIDDLE PIVOT Depress the locking mechanism as if you were going to close the knife, this should allow the pivot to slide right in
So I bought a bugout a few months ago and the springs broke so I bought a replacement. I took it apart and installed them but now it seems like the axis lock like the bolt part is grinding on the steel of the knife (not the blade) and i can’t open it because it’s like so gritty. The axis lock works fine but the bolt is scraping on the metal of the knife and making me sad. Any ideas?
You're hilarious on allergies, Nick!!!! I thoroughly enjoyed your troubles in this video. I want to apologize but I'm laughing to hard at the moment!! Haha!!! "What did I do wrong here? Well short of buying and disassembling a benchmade." That should be written down in our history books!! Hahahahaha!!!!
I think the side play and centering are qualities to be worried about by OCD patients and in reality are of no consequence in the usefulness of this and most other knives.
I cannot get the play out of my bugout...and it bums me out. Really debating whether to keep it...the only thing keeping me back is the blade shape. Although this s30v edge keeps chipping or rolling on me? wtf...only done basic stuff like mail, boxes and food? I don't know if i want another benchmade...
I love/hate disassembling/maintaining benchmade knives. Never taken out the omega springs though...I’m too scared lol. Bugout looks like a cool knife though.
On the bright side, we now know the washers aren't symmetrical and it's not rly a big deal and I can do that to my Benchmade. Once a year I'll just send it to Benchmade for the bigger maintnance stuff since I've heard their lifesharp service is great.
I know the post is old, but it's funny on my Bugout the washers were identical. Proved it on a set of Flytanium scales. Blade centering, lockup, play, and action are seriously improved. The stock scales will never give you the kind of consistency as metal or carbon. And like you, I plan to bring it back to stock and sending it out to Benchmade for blade replacement, springs, pivot wear, etc. I've got more knives anyway lol!
Happy National Knife Day! I took apart a Ganzo G753 with no problem and thought the Mini Grip would be a breeze, but short of the Spyderco Endura I think it was the hardest disassembly I've ever done.
Fullfire. How true. I like my knives to break in through use not oil.if it ain’t broke dont fix it. But I do love taking a used knife apart and cleaning it up and sharpening it.Springs broke in my bug out I sent it back.
Feeling bad as after changing blades I’m getting stuck with the pivot insertion and then I hit YT and at least get a bit of light relief watching so many others struggling of Fluking it.
