When I first got into knives, Cutlerylover and Nutnfancy were pretty much the only big reviewers in the game. I remember when D2 first started making appearances, and we considered it to be an exciting steel at the time. I remember people talking about D2's INSANE edge retention. Getting back into knives after like a 10 year hiatus, it's pretty surprising to see how much has changed.
I got one early with the tan Micarta. Seriously runs like it is on bearings. Wonderfully made at any price, no complaints. It's my Sunday knife it's that good.
The current ones they're shipping come with 3 washers on each side, 1 nylon and 2 bronze and they're much smaller and worse quality than the early runs.
I like this one i'm a fan of denim micarta. With those bronse and teflon washers i usualy put them in with the bronse one touching the blade, i did that with my coldsteel ad15 too, it makes it a lot smoother.
2 of these came in the mail this week. I find it hard to flick open like Nick does with the thumb stud. Of course, I've never liked thumb studs. If it was a flipper, it'd be a WINNER! (for me) I also have to say, both of the ones I got shave hair without an issue. In all, impressive for 30 bucks.
Bought a Penguin in Green Micarta. LOVE this knife. The only issue I have is the edges on the thumb stud are darn near as sharp as the blade. What would you suggest I use to ease the edges of it a bit? Thanks...
That’s interesting, @Nick Shabazz mine came completely clean & lightly lubricated, although this one wasn’t exactly dirty. Had mine for a while & I like it, I particularly like the denim Micarta.
This knife represents a lot of firsts for me, which the price point allowed me to take a chance on. First modern folder, first sheepsfoot only blade, first knife with a D2 blade, first knife with micarta, first knife I've been able to carry with a clip, and first time I purchased from a Chinese knife brand (to be fair I've never bought an American pocket knife either as I grew up in Case country and they were given to me). I liked the Penguin so much I finally pulled the trigger on the Neckmuck.
Is there any reason you reversed the washers? Not trying to be like "YOU DID THIS WRONG HAHA" I am actually curious. Does it not matter which is inside or outside? Teflon vs bronze?
Nice vid, thanks. Re Alleima (Sandvik) 14C28N see Larrin Thomas's article on it - Best budget (low cost) knife steel. 14C28N was Larrin's choice for many reasons which I won't go into here. I agree with Larrin, it's on all QSP's I own and is superb. I trust Alleima and QSP's apparently good heat treat of this steel. Cheers, AL.
thats one thing i kind of dislike about the loctite stick is it tends to scrape off as you are putting the screw into the hole but i find it still usually gets enough on the threads usually to work sometimes i will take my spring bar tool and poke the loctite down into the screw hole
I picked up one of these a bit ago and the info card in the box says the washers are copper not PB, does that make any functional difference that anyone is aware of? Shiny is shiny, after all.
Yes. Pb is of course stronger. Also the usual industrial variety is self lubricating and not as subject to galvanic welding. That matters to those of us in salty coas tal places. As this is a very light duty piece I don't think it matters. In fact Nitinol would be my choice for all but the tankiest knives.
My lock bar snapped after 8hrs of use. Drove my wife crazy flicking it all day. Warranty service was very poor and it took over a month for China to approve a replacement. They made me pay for shippping on the replacement knife. My knife had the Teflon washers against the blade, not the frame.
@@srt4magoo I don't remember as I've since sold it but if you have a set of calipers you can measure the width thickness and the pivot hole and match the measurements up with bearings here usaknifemaker.com/shop-categories/folding-knife-parts/washers-and-bushings.html Or from skiff bearings
My advice in that situation, for your home bar go fixed blade. Maybe Japanese style kitchen knife - www.bladehq.com/item--Shun-Sora-3-12-Paring-Knife-VB0700--19140 But since you're asking about folding... No this one is not what I would go with. I think having additional belly on the blade towards the tip makes for a more flexible knife.
I just took mine apart and I have 2 bronze washers on each side (total of 4) plus the 1 Teflon per side. I only saw 1 bronze per side on this video. What’s going on here?..
It’s probably oil/grease from the pivot causing the lock stick. Wipe the lock face off routinely as you break it in and it’ll clean itself out in a day or so.
Because the Para 3 isn’t a nickname, it’s the full name. They dropped the “military” for the 3. Unless you’re asking why they did that, in which case I couldn’t say for certain. Probably they didn’t want a tactical sounding name on it either because tactical stuff is viewed as kinda hokey nowadays by most knife people, or because it would seem silly to imply a knife that small was meant for some kind of tactical purpose.
Weren’t the Teflon washers against the blade and pb against scales?? Sorry if someone mentioned this already I don’t read comments from random jackasses 😂
He put the washers at the wrong position. The teflon should be against the blade, not the frame. Teflon is supposed to protect the D2 blade from micro scratches from the bronze which prevents it from rusting faster.
Teflon over bronze is the manufacturer admitting that their tolerances are out of control and ugly. If their tolerances were any good at all they would not need compressability at any point in their construction. Kizer has a nasty tendency to do the same thing in their budget line.
Cold Steel, Hinderer and Demko knives all use teflon washers in knives costing over $400. There must be a reason. These are all knives with outstanding tolerances.