I thought I would do a how to video on changing the oil on my bike. It will take 2.8 liters of SAE 20W-50 YAMALUBE FOUR STROKE oil as I am changing the filter too.
This video helped me a lot! I did this on my 1998 V Star 650. Here are some tips I learned along the way: 1) You will need to either jack up the bike or ride it on top of some thick plywood (like in the vid) to get under the bike and place a drain pan under it. The oil drain bolt is facing the kickstand. Since the bike is leaning on the kickstand you can't get under unless you use one of the above options to raise the bike. 2) You can't fit a 17mm socket on the oil drain plug. There isn't enough space. You need to use a wrench or can use a ratchet wrench. You might need a shorter wretch depending how high off the ground your put your bike. There is a bolt that connects to the right of the kickstand (if you are facing the kickstand) and through the frame. The other side of that bolt is connected to a nut. I believe they are both 15mm. If you remove that bolt and nut it will give you about 2-3 cm of extra space to get to the oil drain bolt. 3) Before putting in the oil filter first TRIPLE CHECK you are placing the extended part in first (as in the video). I also marked the the part of the filter facing outwards in a sharpie with the current mileage and oil used so I know for next time. 4) The metal body part (with the 2 hex long screws and 1 short one) has a rubber gasket built into it that presses against the outside of the oil filter. Remember to wipe that down (or get a new one) then rub a small amount of fresh oil on it before reconnecting it (just like with the rubber gaskets for the oil filter). 5) All the hex screws can be accessed with a standard allen key. The one furthest to the front of the bike is slightly blocked by the brake pedal. Just like in the vid, if you press the pedal down slightly you can access it. The bolts are also accessible enough to use the short end of the allen key for more leverage when you crack them off and tighten them on. You can use the long side of the allen key or a ratchet screw driver with an allen key bit to quickly loosen and tighten it. 6) You'll need 2 different size allen keys. A smaller one for the first cover with 3 bolts. A larger one for the 5 bolts on the piece under it. They are 4mm and 5mm. 7) POUR OIL IN NEW THE FILTER FIRST! Before you place in the oil filter pour some new oil inside it. This will let the filter soak up the oil so it flows easier when you first start up the bike after the oil change. 8) BEFORE PUTTING THE OIL DRAIN PLUG BACK IN make sure to wipe down the plug hole and clean the bolt. If there is any sand or grit it will cause a leak. The oil plug does not use a rubber gasket, it just uses the bolt and a metal washer to form the seal. 9) This took me about 2 hours the first time as some bolts were a little stubborn and I thoroughly cleaned everything along the way. Plan ahead for that. The 2nd time this should only take about 30 min (takes about 10-15 min just for the oil to completely drain) 10) One mistake in the vid (which you might have noticed) is he meant QUARTS NOT LITERS when talking about the oil. 2.8 QUARTS will get the oil right in the center of the sight glass (if also changing the filter). The manual says to use 3 quarts. I used 3 and it was just slightly above the center of the sight glass. I figure 3 quarts is better so there is extra oil in case some burns off or I later discover a slight leak. 11) As he said in the video, Yamaha no longer sells 20w-40 oil. I used 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil. I asked at the Yamaha motorcycle dealership and they said that fine and as a result I shouldn't need to change it again for 3000-4000 miles because it's synthetic. 12) REMOVE THE OIL FILLER CAP BEFORE DRAINING. Screw off the plastic cap where you pour in the oil before taking out the drain plug. It will let the oil drain faster as air can get it.
@@dubiousjesse True, I only change my oil 1-2 times a year (unless the oil in the viewing window looks black). Also don't forget the final drive (hub around rear wheel connected to the drive shaft) has its own oil reserve. That one gets changed every 10k-15k miles.
no need to raise the bike to change the oil. put a brick under the end of the kickstand to bring the bike more vertical if your pan is too tall, get a shorter drain pan. a 1/2" drive socket will not fit the drain plug, but a normal 3/8" drive will. 1/4" definately. you can only get a few turns off before the socket hits the frame, but you NEED a socket because you MUST use a torque wrench when you put the drain plug back in. Alum blocks strip out when over torqued. the drain plug is 32 ft lbs. the cover allen bolts are 7 ft lbs . You need 4mm and 5mm Allen BIT and 1/4" socket for the bits, so you can put a torque wrench on them. DONT TOUCH YOUR BIKE IF YOU DONT HAVE A TORQUE WRENCH! GET ONE. the bike takes 3 qts with a filter change. dont look at the site glass, measure the oil and put 3 qts in. To check the level you must start the bike and let it run for a minute to fill the oil filter space, THEN 3 qts puts the level at the full line in the window. DONT presoak your filter in oil you will make a mess for no reason. just put the filter in, it will soak when you fill the bike and start it up
Thanks! Just bought a used one and this really helped. Whenever buying used first thing I want to do is change the fluids and filters. Always best to watch someone that knows what they are doing before jumping in blind!
I don't often comment on youtube videos, but I have the exact same bike as you (down to the color of the tank), and your 650 V-Star videos have been very helpful. Bike's been sluggish recently, so I'm going to change oil and plugs with your instructions and see what happens. Thanks!
Oh Man I wished I'd watched this before I changed my oil and filter. They hold LOTS of oil, I (OVER) filled my little drip tray with residual oil from the filter, it was 90% full from the engine, Get the largest thing you've got handy, the bike has much more oil than you'd think.
Thank you for sharing the video. Very detail instructions. Specially for me that I am new to the motorcycle culture and not familiar with motor cycle maintance.
bernbo--Thanks a lot man. I plan to change the oil myself on my Yamaha 650 Custom. Dealer charges $150.00 just to change the oil, so it's a big help to learn how to do it myself. Again thanks!
was about to do an oil change my self and was a little hesitant, this vid put all that to rest thanks for taking the time to show me. i really appreciate the time you took to vido the process
I'm about to do an oil change and I referred to the owner's manual. It's 2.8 US quarts if you aren't also changing the oil filter. It's 3.0 US quarts if you're also replacing the oil filter. It's 3.4 US quarts if you're doing it on a dry engine.
@roel2055 Funny you say that, I bought a box end wrench after that oil change, because it felt like I was going to round out that bolt. Your right though. I don't recommend using an open end wrench. Thank you for your kind comment.
Thank you Bernbo i'm 43 and just started riding, first bike 2006 Yamaha V-star 650 classic. Your videos are so easy to watch and understand please keep up the great work much appreciated. Peace Brother
Thanks so much for the video. You helped me do the first oil-change on my bike ever!! Even a lady can do this. Easy peasy. Now I need a video to changing stock pipes without having to do anything with the carbs.
Thanks! I've had my Vstar for 7 years, never personally changed the oil. Always had the mechanic across from my office do the maintenance. Now I am retired. I will do it myself, but wanted to check your video to be sure I was doing it correctly.
My bike is sitting in the garage for three months for this winter. Should I fire up the bike before I do oil change, or I should do oil change get all the dirty oil out then fire it up. Any suggestions…
Thank You for the good video. I would add 1 thing, Once the job is complete run it so the oik can get in the filter and circulate and then check it again.
Thank you very much for this! Another video was over 30 minutes long and made it seem like this would be a daunting task for an amateur like myself .. but you made it very clear and concise. Thanks again!
Hi, thanks for the video and the instructions .. I’m riding XVS 650 Drag Star 1997, first oil change I have used recommended by Yamaha Dealer here in Europe Yamalube 10-W40 Semi-synthetic, I have done the service by myself.. yet I’m facing sometime when the engine is hot difficulties to locate the neutral...!! I have mentioned this issue at several Yamaha web pages and said that I have to change the engine oil to 20-W50 fully synthetic ..since the XVS650 engine is very sensitive in regards type of oil .. Would like to hear your suggestions please ..thanks a lot
I remember my 650 was also a bit sensitive to find neutral, but I wasn't using synthetic oil I used the regular yamalube. It may be the synthetic oil is making it more sensitive. Not really sure what's going on there.
there is no reason to put the bike in neutral while the engine is running (while you are riding) if you cant hold the clutch in at a red light, get a scooter seriously KEEP the bike in 1st when stopped and keep your eyes scanning 360° till you get moving a stopped MC is a sitting duck to get pancaked
Hey Bernbo, I know this video is pretty old now (and still helping people) but would you consider putting in the description, the oil weight and how much? I always forget and come back here to check. Thanks and takeiteass!
Hi, one question. If you Wanne Change the oilfilter there is one screw That you have to put in carefuly Close With Maximum 43 Newton Meters. Did you Just put that one back Normaly ?
I just changed the oil...no problem...But the manual says there is a "Oil gallery screw" to release air...like a bleeder and to ensure full oil pressure. Anyone have any input on this? The picture in the manual (shows a small screw up near on of the spark wires) I'm just not seeing it on my 2002 650 Classic.
Fantastic video i have a 2010 650 v star has mine got the site glass so i can check oil level because i was wondering how to check oil i will be doing my own oil changes how long did it take, motor bike shop in my town said it takes a couple of hours Regards Anthony
I swear i cant get my oil filter cap to stop seaping oil. i can ride it about 20 mins and turn it off and it will finally squeeze out a drop at the front bottom corner. I even bought a used cap and it leaks too.!!
That sucks, I would pick up a Screw Extractor set, I think Home Depot has them, then you pilot a small hole in the broken bolt and use the screw extractor, it has a reverse thread on it so as you unscrew it it bites in and should remove the broken bolt. Make sure to center punch the bolt before you drill it the more centered the hole the better and you don't need to drill too deep. Hope this helps & good luck.
Hi Tim I know Synthetic is good but it is expensive and you can get o lot more mileage out of it. I have always used Conventional call me cheap lol. Congrats on you new bike that's awesome, I wish you the best on your trip bro. Takeiteass!
Hey Anthony, good question, I'am not sure what the best oil is. I would continue using the factory recommended oil for your bike, I think there is a semi synthetic & full synthetic oil as well by Yamalube. Hope this helps. Ride safe.
@mcbachase That's right, you don't have to drop your pipes, on the 1100 vstar you do, I really like the Vance & Hines slip ons, they have a nice low rumble to them.
@Farmer2492 Thank you, yes your's has the site glass too, the whole job was about 1/2 hour to 45 mins, that's great the video could help you out, take care.
I'm sure you noticed the typo, it's QUARTS not LITERS lol but anyone dumb enough not to figure that out should not own tools. good vid. i wanted to make sure I did mine right cuz the engine noise seems louder now and it may be running hotter but I'm not sure
@philippestrapko1 I would use what the manufacture recommends, yamalube 20w-40/API, that way you can't go wrong. Thank you for your kind comment & ride safe.
Thanks for the video. They are great. Now I can change me oil myself. You can also buy replacement parts at Autozone, if there is no dealer around your way.
Hey Scott, sorry for the late response. I used pieces of 2x6 to raise the bike just high enough to get the oil pan under the bike. Both tires and kick stand. Cheers
hey brother Just out of curiousity, I heard someone say its important to replace new washer for drain plug bolt every time you Change the oil, would that be neccesary at all?
#1 how do you have such a dry filter, I get oil on the side cover, I also have problem getting the screws out close to the brake peddle, Oh and I used 10W-40, next time I'll get the 20W-50 cause I ain't doing it now. Thanks!
I'm about to replace my clutch plates, all looks well except the exhaust has a heat shield with Philips Screws, and this is on the front, it's not much room either, I sprayed them with PB Blaster several times, you know a sure shot on busting those screws loose without messing them up?
My dad has one and wanted me to change to oil and the drain bolt is a bitch to get to especially if the owner or dealer before you over tightened it. Good video.
