Lol I been driving with out the clutch for a week. My clutch is stuck to the floor so I start in gear And float to each gear... stopping for signs and lights suck having to turn it off
In the old fiat cars like fiat 500 or fiat 126 from the 70 they didn't have syncronize pretty much my dad to change gear was doing the same push pedal of gas couple time rev match and put gear in
Your car was done right: sounds mean, not like a fart can. And it picks up speed in a turn flawlessly. Seems easy to handle, or maybe you make it look that way? But seriously good job with your car.
Thanks Adam! The inline 4 in that car loves to be revved. It was paired with a full exhaust. Stainless headers, magnaflow high flow cat, and a magnaflow cat back. Suspension was a full coilover kit made by Flying Miata. Finished off with a decent set of Hankook tires. I could throw that car through corners all day. Very fun to drive!
From Colorado have a 2003 Saturn ion I had to do this while I was up in the mountains over a hundred miles from home I remember my dad driving his semi like this and it worked just fine got me home
Thank you, I don't know if I'm brave enough though, lol~ I do have a question for you. I had both slave and master cylinder replaced about 9 months ago... recently I have had issues of it not wanting to go into gear. Since I recently moved too far away from the original mechanic I found one here who told me that the slave happens to be a bad part. Because I'm waiting for pay day I've been winging it and filing it with the 3dot break fluid. This morning the clutch felt high, and tight so I assumed it was good, but when I put it into reverse it went backward so fast, and it didn't want to stop! I had to force it into neutral. People had to push me back into my driveway. What was that?? Can I continue to simply refill it when I plan to drive it to the shop? Or is it more than just a bad slave cylinder now? Yesterday, after filling it to the max line, it got me to work and back. It didn't act crazy~
It does sound like a bad slave cylinder. I went through three different slave cylinders in this car. They were cheap auto parts store replacements and the first two were complete junk. It sounds like there is a leak in your system somewhere. Enough for you to get it in to reverse, but not enough pressure to keep the clutch disengaged to go slowly. It could be a line too, but it's probably the slave cylinder. That's what fails most commonly. Sounds like you can limp it to the shop, but idk use your best judgment there. If it doesn't want to go into gear with the car off, you probably have different problems.
cool...good tip.....its just that at every stop sign....it will knock ur engine dead and you have to restart ur engine and get going again.....but should drive with extreme caution.
Yep. Correct. Not ideal and you have to weigh the wear and tear against the costs of a tow truck and the circumstances. Getting me to a safe place: 100% worth it. Driving a block or two to a shop: probably. Just depends on what is happening.
HOLLY SHET! I my guess was right. I had a slave on the floor. Changed it out following all instructions. I mite as well as drive wo the godam thing shit. I typed in if it was possible to drive with it because I had to move the fker to look for tools. As long as there is nothing in the way u can go. I'll just drive it later. Thx man
also if your clutch pedal is kind of engaging right as you let off the floor I mean I'm talking half inch 3/4 of an inch and it's already engaged in gear as opposed to when I first started driving the vehicle it would engage 3/4 of the way up almost all the way up top and sometimes I'll do that sometimes it won't and then also just recently my floor was wet and there was a big stain of some kind of an oil or I'm assuming master cylinder fluid but I've got the fluid up to level and everything how do I know which part is actually bad with these symptoms that I have do you think it's an actual clutch itself or do you think it's a slave cylinder when I'm pushing the pedal when it was working and actually engaging not just floating basically there I saw the slave cylinder moving a pretty good amount and I couldn't see any fluid coming out of there or dripping out and of course now like I said it's not moving or doing anything but does that sound like something you've dealt with before or that you think you might know what my issue is should I just start with a master cylinder and go from there
I didn't see this earlier. You generally want to start with function checking the master and slave cylinders. If your slave cylinder is moving the clutch arm, then it is working and you have a different problem that is probably inside the transmission. If I could see my slave cylinder working, I would take it to a shop because the transmission probably needs to come out and it may need a new clutch.
$1,400 repair bill for my Nissan including a new clutch trying to shift without the clutch the clutch was old anyways so about a $900 mistake not including the clutch
Master cylinder looks like it’s leaking in my 1999 accord. I checked the clutch hydraulic fluid and it doesn’t look like any has really left but when the clutch petal is all the way in it’s still partially engaged and I have the problem putting it into gear so I don’t think filling it up with more fluid will help. I think with rpm matching and using the clutch it shouldn’t put too much wear on the transmission when I take it to the shop tomorrow and I’m not confident enough to try and float all the gears 😂😭 I wish I could fix it for like 30 mins but the fluid is definitely over the line so🤷🏼♂️
Now what if u have no pedal .meaning there is no pressure there it just kind of freely moves wherever and only goes about 3/4 of the way to flooas opposed to normally going 100% .. essentially if you were to reach down there and grab the clutch pedal with your hand whatever position you wanted to set it in you could move it like just easy no pressure needed one little finger you could push it up or down and it would just stay wherever you said it whatever position so and it's almost impossible to get it into first gear any gear what would a person do at that point is there a way to still do this do I just got to keep pushing and forcing and kind of rolling the vehicle little trying to get it into first and then even though there's no pedal there it doesn't really matter cuz it's not like you were using your pedal anyways? Or I don't know
You need to get it in first gear with the engine off. Then you start it, this moves the car. You then shift without the clutch. Some clutch systems and/or failures will not allow you to do this. If that's the case, you need a tow. Keep in mind, this is hard on components (Starter, syncros, transmission, etc.). So, proceed at your own risk. The safest option is a tow anyway, but this can get you out of a pinch.
Probably wouldn't stall, but you would put a lot of wear and tear on your syncros and probably won't get the car into the next gear. It's critical to match the engine speed with the transmission speed to do this without hurting things. It's what makes the whole thing work when shifting.
I'm not familiar with a release bearing. If you mean throwout bearing, yes this way should work. Hope you get where you need to go. I wouldn't go too far or in heavy traffic like this. Be careful and stay safe.
Then you probably should tow it. That's a really odd clutch failure though. Typically, the master or slave just loses the ability to hold pressure. Not sure what would prevent your clutch pedal from being depressed fully.
Yes tried this with '97 K1500 pickup, pumping clutch also helps out, it will get you home, just be real careful on the streets keep your following distance. Kind of like floating gears with a semi truck, which transmission is not synchronized.
Pumping the clucht can help. But, it depends on what and how the clutch failed. And sooner or later it runs out of fluid. But yeah this is a thing to do carefully for sure! Thanks for watching!
If you want to look at it that way, go ahead. Life is about managing risks. If you are decent at rev matching and not forceful with the shifter, your transmission risk in a modern car isn't that great. There's some increased wear, but you are wearing out every single part in your car every time you move it. The starter will take a somewhat higher than normal load, but nothing outrageous unless you find yourself in stop and go traffic. Would I drive it across the country like this? No. But, would I move the car to a safe place using this method? Absolutely. Would I use it to save a tow bill to a nearby shop? Probably. But, it depends how close and what kind of driving I need to do to get there. Thanks for watching.
If done perfectly, it doesn't necessarily hurt the gear box. Anything outside of absolute perfection though is hard on the synchros and other parts. It's not hard on the gears, but everything else involved in shifting inside the trans will wear faster. You don't want to do this all the time or that frequently. It's something that you try a every now and then to get the hang of it, then save for emergency use. Moving the car and shifting without the clutch is useful because it can get you to a shop or at least a better place to pull over.
There is no advantage to doing this. You would only do this if you were stranded in the middle of nowhere and couldn't get a tow truck to get your car to a shop or weren't able to replace the master cylinder or clutch where you were. No one could ever be perfect at shifting like this which means you are grinding down gears and causing damage in the transmission that will be very expensive to fix. Consider that rebuilding your transmission after you screw it up is going to cost north of 1500 dollars while you could get a master cylinder or slave cylinder for about 50 a piece. This is not good to do... not good at all.
Agreed that it's hard on the starter. But, as with everything, you have to weigh the pros and cons. I'll nuke a starter to get to a safe place if I'm stuck in a bad spot. Great trade off there. It's worse in stop and go traffic. How much wear and tear depends on how you have to drive it. A few starts like this aren't going to noticeably harm a starter. Doing it over and over again without time to cool would be very hard on it.
I don't get it. If the clutch is fully engaged and cannot be disengaged, I don't see how you can rev the engine. If the clutch is fully engaged, then the engine speed has to be in lock step with the road wheel speed so far as I can see... ???
