he's not stoned he's trying to explain how to do something he doesn't actually do! He's saying we have to do this, reality it's they have to do this. Haha
I think this is a great video , I like what you did and how clean it is, I do agree with the need to use contemporary material but I respect your choice,,,, Thanks very cool indeed
Very cool to see this operation! So basically the strength of the extension is all about the extended stringers? Another thing I don’t understand is the new transom is much lower, the engine will be short shaft then?
I think your video showed me just fine what you do, I've worked in fiberglass for years. In a large boat place I worked we built a removable transom (back) to the mold. We also made the mold extra long so we could slide the transom section FWD or back and make a 46 or 50 out of the same mold , this had inboards and we were able to leave the running gear in the same place . I would have thought you would have extended you hull mold and just dropped in a plug when making a shorter version. Do the work once and then make the hull the right length every time from scratch , no patching. Cheers warren
Everybody wants brackets but this makes more sense. Brackets don't add hull length in most cases. Hull length is important because it adds efficiency at lower displacement speeds by adding waterline length. Displacement speed is the speed at which the wavelength of a vessel's bow wave is equal to the waterline length of the vessel. By extending the waterline hull length, you extend the displacement speed. The effort to push the boat faster rises considerably. You can go faster before that resistance in encountered. This also provides displacement/flotation back where it's needed which is under the heavy engine. This in turn reduces the leverage of supported weight aft of the transom which tends to cause porpoising. A common defect even in new boats. This also reduces the strain a bracket creates on the transom as well which means heavier reinforcement can be avoided. This also reduces the height of the outboard once installed which reduces the center of gravity height problems that outboards have. How? A common bracket allows the water to cleave clear of the bottom much further forward of the outboard. The water then rises as it proceeds aft requiring the outboard to be mounted even higher for the cavitation plate to make contact properly. But this does not occur with this design which is the same as normal transom mounted outboards. The water flows clear of the bottom right in front of the propeller where it needs to be. In fact with brackets, its common to need electric engine height adjusters installed because of the different water exit heights that far aft of the transom at different speeds. Unnecessary with this arrangement. Additionally, this allows for a shorter shaft length for the outboard which reduces the center of gravity problem that all outboards have versus inboards which sit where they should be- at the bottom of the boat. This also provides a swim platform on either side of the engine as well.
This video is just meant as an overview of what we do to stretch this particular model. We did it this way initially for one customer who wanted his boat stretched from 24 to 25.5 feet. Since that time we've done many new builds of the 25.5 not knowing that it would be such a popular model. The tooling cost to create a larger hull was far too much to invest the money. But in hindsight with the time it takes to do the stretch and the number of boats we have built it probably would have been a good investment to build a new hull mold. This video was done on a whim as I thought it would be of interest to our viewers but had no plans on doing a detailed video series on this project.
Thanks for sharing your video man , it is super interesting to learn how the pros do it , one day if I'm up to it on my 17fter I know what videos to watch!
Thank you sir for posting this because I'm trying to figure out how to do an extension on a hull myself. I wish you had shown more of the exact process of how many layers of glass and what type of glass, and above all, would have loved to see the final product cuz I don't really understand what the entire transom was going to look like. But thank you anyway
Have you ever extended a Sea Cat catamaran boat? The older ones used mostly 2 stroke an when repowered with 4 stroke they sit heavily in the water. I think you'd get business redoing the 21' boat. I have one an I'm sure interested in the process. Thanks for the videos!
@@ngirabedechal there is probably not a stringer in your twin vee. You would add the stringer, passing it through the old transom into the new extended section of the hull from at least 2.5 to 3 feet from inside the boat. The stringer would be as tall as the deck in the boat and the top plate of the extension. Most extension for larger outboards 90 hp and up will be a minimum of 32 inches long to accommodate full tilt up of the engines. Your top plate on the extension is 4.5 to 5 inches below where the motor mounts to clear the hydraulic steering ram. So on a 25 inch long shaft motor the top plate is going to roughly be 20 inches tall on a full displacement extension. Meaning you stretched the boat the same shape as the hull vs bolting on a aluminum bracket which would be an entirely different scenario. The cats really need the full displacement offered by the full extension so the don't squat to much under the weight of the outboards. The volume in most bolt on brackets does not carry the weight of the outboards.
Thank you sir, your insight really helps as I'm still in a planning stage. I got my boat for free, it is solid but older with no motors. 26 or 27 twin vee with cabin. I'm just assuming the transom will need work and the deck although seems fine there is a section where the plywood is exposed from when whoever gutted the boat and it's been sitting on a trailer for a long time. I plan to change the deck and extend the stern with pod or bracket with floatation and re power with twin Suzuki 175 or 200. Leaning more towards the 175s. So I want to build something strong enough to handle the horsepower and also offset the weight of the motors. I believe this boat was rated for 300 max, so I'm hoping to safely beat that. Thanks again for responding
@@ngirabedechal spend the extra money and use composite coosa, k cell or thermalize board for your deck and transom repair. Also definitely use epoxy resin as the mechanical bond of polyester resin is basically zip. I peel apart polyester boats with a flat bar and hammer. It's quite astonishing how easily it comes apart. The composite board makes a way stronger stiffer never rot again core material. You'll thank yourself in the long run
May I respectfully recommend a some que cards or a script? I'm guessing I missed some information simply because I couldn't handle waiting for the explanations. Blame my ADHD but I was forced to fast forward. I'd hoped it would change. But un the end I just had to give up. Lol All joking aside. I do mean this with no disrespect. As it is very informative. And seems to be very quality oriented/focused work. Thanks for the video. And keep pushing em out. It'll get better no matter what.
i’m kind of surprised there aren’t any mechanical fasteners on the extension ? or at least you didn’t mention them ? looks and sounds like you’ve been exposed to resin fumes for a very long time , i’m not making fun of you i am a retired Woodworker who was also in a business that had many dangerous chemical fumes with many of our finishes and bonding agents although i don’t have any proof as to why but in my 40s i began having Strokes that has caused permanent brain damage and a forced early retirement as a result of the Traumatic Brain damage i lost the use of my left arm and hand as well and i will admit that i did accidently get high as a kite from prolonged exposure to some of the chemicals from Automotive Grade paint fumes and Acetones being absorbed into my skin it was a weird sensation as it happened over a long period of exposure and it took me a while to realize what happened ? it’s just a theory of mine as i’ve witnessed similar medical issues in others that are in careers that use many of the same products or very similar ones one incident of mine was from exposure to Spar Varnish when finishing a boat of mine my Father owned and operated hair Salons for many years and they used to use a spray rig piped to many areas of the shop for the hairspray so the air he breathed all day long was filled with similar chemicals and he wound up coming down with several mental and neurological conditions before his death
Hello, I am thinking to have a small sauna in the after kabin of my glass fiber sailboat? May this project go well if I investering in a proper isolation? Or it that just an insane idea?
I'm not sure which boat we were showing but for twin 150 outboards we use three layers of 3/4" plywood on the transom and for a single 250 we use 2 layers of 3/4" and 1 layer of 1/2". We also built one with a 300hp. The owner is aggressive with his boat and uses it daily so for that one we use two layers of 3/4" and 2 layers of 1/2".
Everyone want outboards now, lighter , self contained , quieter, easily repaired or replaced, water jets are much lowered powered for the same engine size as jets are very inefficient except in light jet skis that are basically overpowered.
While the presentation could have been better, overall it was an interesting video. Not much in showing you what to do, but a decent end result. I don't understand why he would not have feathered the sides of the boat to match the new extension - that bump left is useless and ruins the flow. As well, I would have cut 3' out of the middle or near the end and left the transom intact. Seems that would have been a better and more cost-effective process.
5:00 in and i lost confidence on this dude actually showing *HOW TO EXTEND A FIBERGLASS BOAT HULL* just a stoner trying to explain it in his least excited “fk this job” attitude...
See this is the problem people like to complain about the end cost of boats. Hear all the time how can that be so expensive bla bla bla bla. So some company’s continue to build boats with cheaper materials to sell at a lower cost. There are boats for everyone. Production fiberglass boats to semi custom boats that use e glass over plywood construction, to full custom Kevlar/ carbon fiber and S glass composit hand laid boats. Thats the awsome part you get to a choice of what kind of boat you want with what kind of materials there made out of. It’s not your duty to go around telling people who have been making boats for years how to make them.
See kids this is what happens when you been working with resins, gel coat, paint, and composite in the old days before PPE was big. If you don’t wanna be this guy in 20 years wear your face masks!!
PASTED? really? (Maybe "FUSED" would sound more permanent) You should let someone who knows how it's done make the video. You sound like you're just guessing. Maybe do a couple takes to get it right and hold the camera to show what you're talking about.
Painful to watch....But, I appreciate that you're not a public speaker and come across as knowledgeable and authentic. Maybe it's just me, but using the term "pasted" sounds like a school project, and undervalues the actual precision work you're doing. Why/how are the stringers joined/slanted? and are they reinforced somehow prior to the fiberglassing? handling
I agree it was not well done and I'm not a good public speaker but this video has the most views so it seems I have entertained the viewers. Lots of harsh, nonconstructive comments but I have chosen to respond to you. I have been away from the you tube so I am behind on all the comments. I don't do drugs. I'm not brain damaged. I am quite smart and have an engineering degree. I have used the word "paste" as it is how we have commonly referred to it around the shop. The product is Polybond. The stringer are slanted to create more surface area with the joint. The hull extension is added later because we don't have a mold for the full length. This is why the stringers have to be joined. The main hull is laid up with the transom and stringers in place to maintain the shape and rigidity of the hull. The aft end of the stringers are temporary and are knocked out when the transom is cut out. The permanent ends of the stringers are installed when the hull extension is installed. Stringers are "pasted" to boat , then glass tabbed to hull then fully encapsulated in glass.
This looks as dodgy as fuck which wasn't helped by what appears to be the boss 'umming' and 'ahhing' in an extremely hesitant way. If they've been doing this for 20 years now, then why not do the job properly in the first place, especially as he admited at the end, that the 25 foot length planes better? Just make a proper 25 footer mate.
Ok Bob Ross Jr. Anyway. So many things wrong with doing things this method. And so many easier pathways. Not usually a negative Neville.... But oh.... Stick to landscapes.
