How to Fertilize Roses 

Water from pressure cooker after softening chicken bones for the dogs might be good for roses?

@@fernly2 bone meal is usually good.. i’d seen a crime story where the lady used to bury her victims under the front garden flowerbeds & her roses were the biggest on the whole of her neighbourhood & road & that’s how she got caught..so may be.. just don’t get caught being mistaken for something strange is going on .. tell them .. there’s just chicken bones under there.. you can check’um out if you want if the law comes sniffing around

What a beautiful memory to have.

@@aexiga87 thank you ma’am.. a lovely memory indeed

@@aexiga87 I’m age 62 now

My pleasure Pauline

Thanks so much Elie

Since nitrogen is needed for rose can I use diluted overnight urine for NY potted roses

Thanks - good to know. And I've seen wonderful rose gardens in Australia, so it seems the P isn't all it's cracked up to be!

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm The "P" does benefit the development of fruit, so I wonder if there might be a benefit for the development of rose hips? But, you are right about very little benefit for flowering plants unless the soil fortification is out of balance or lacking somehow. I use a K-Mag 0-12-12 when my mango trees and other fruit trees bloom as the blossoms start to wilt and set fruit. The P-K and micro nutrients encourage fruit set and development. I am going to sprinkle about half a cup around each rose bush to see if there is any benefit to rose hip development or if it makes any difference at all. Definitely no Nitrogen as the plants are preparing for dormancy.

Thanks so much! I'll have to look for that book

Thanks so much Deborah. Coincidentally, I did reach out to Garden Answer not too long ago. Honestly, I think they're just so successful (and therefore busy) that they'd have a hard time keeping up with all the requests. And there can't be time for everything!

I'm so glad you found it useful.

I just listen to Jason’s good reply on “ can i use tomato feed on roses ?… “ you bet ya “ was the answer & i’ve never seen more healthier roses then mine in my life before.. thanks Jason.. i’m now waiting for my damasks & mosses & whatever roses you had shown on that “ rosy “ video.. they’re all heading to me .. 28 of them..hopefully next month or early November.. i thought of you just yesterday as i was ogling at rose centifolia .. the morroco rose..& there’s 2 flowers on the rose cutting in the back garden..now very big .. the one that the dog had chewed down in the front garden..

You're so welcome. Another case of learning how to ignore marketing hype!

I'm so glad you found it useful!

Oooooh.

Thanks so much. That's Daybreaker

In my garden, it's inside the tire.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you.

Very much my pleasure. The pink rose on the title screen is the last best bloomer in my garden this year: Roberto Capucci

Thank you so much. And what a QUICK response!@@FraserValleyRoseFarm

Thanks. I'm in a climate with a relatively mild winter, so I can't give the best advice for harsher areas, but here's my vid on the topic: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tPU6UOSVSBE.htmlsi=hES-rU97tCmnEhOg

This won't be comforting, but it's normal for Zephirine Drouhin. Beautiful flowers, but I've given up growing Zeph in our climate because of its extreme vulnerability to BS and PM. Sorry!

Darn. Another year wasted. After I bought it, another girl I follow gave up on hers. Oh well, onward and upward! I'll find another climber that is pink and disease resistant.@@FraserValleyRoseFarm 🤞

I like to see them rooted and putting up new growth before I add much in the way of fertilizer. 6 weeks after planting is a decent time to look at it again.

No exact solution, but I'd consider alternating the timing of pruning to the spring and see if it makes a difference.

Sure, you can start them off at half strength out of caution, but you can move them on to the full recommended strength when the roots reach the sides or bottom of the pot

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you so much!❤️

I can see both sides of it - and I don't see the harm so long as you're aware it's "coming in hot". I think fresh poultry manure might tip over into dangerous.

Thanks mate for your reply. You and Mike Kincard are my plant gurus 😁😄👍

Sure - well it depends on the format of ferts you're applying. Controlled release in a pot usually has a # of months for release. So if you incorporate the fertilizer at the time of planting, the rest is just reapplying when the ferts run out. For the soluble formulations it's 2x feed/1x flush through the season. Watering needs slow down as we go into winter, and so fertilizer slows too. In the ground if any supplementation is needed at all, it's just during active growth early spring through summer, and I back of for sure by 6-8 weeks before the first frost.

Hi Jaso @ Fraser Valley Rose Farm 👍👍😀😀🌹🌹🌷🌷❤️❤️Thank You So Much For The Beautiful Red Heart And Thank You So Much For Enjoying My Messages And Comments @ Fraser Valley Rose Farm 👍👍😀😀🌹🌹🌷🌷❤️❤️

Yes, roughly 6 weeks ahead for roses in the landscape.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you very much for your reply! This is my first year growing roses, and I have been learning from many different channels. So far, the popular opinion from the English speaking western countries is to stop fertilizing to prepare for winter; however, Chinese breeders and nurseries recommend to continue fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium to boost fall flowers. Chinese professional gardeners recommend to increase fertilizing in late summer or early fall after temperature drops below 30C and then change to none nitrogen fertilizer to prepare for winter. It's interesting to learn different ways for growing

Water them in promptly and mis with the top layers of soil. They'll break down fast. We sure haven't seen any issues with rodents taking an interest in the alfalfa pellets here.

It'll probably do to the job, but you honestly can't know what your garden plants need without a soil test, and over time you're likely to add something (the most likely candidate is phosphorus) in an unhelpful quantity. In a pot, I'd be more likely to go with a 3-1-2 (or similar simplified ratio) and in the ground it's probably best to go with bulk organic amendments like manure or compost that are generally replacing the lost N and adding just a little bit else.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you for these very helpful advices.

No, that's not something I've heard and I have no clue why that would be a particular concern with mixing fertilizer. Sounds like a folk myth to me.

Hi Paula. Well there's lots of specific info on google or wikipedia about the way plants use phosphorus or potassium - notably in photosynthesis and energy transfer for P and the movement of water, nutrients and the opening/closing of stomata for K. But I'm not sure breaking it down to that level is very useful: they're both required, and no one nutrient on its own can be said to be "the flowering nutrient" or to be solely responsible for vegetative growth. One of the reasons I don't go into specific brand recommendations in the video is because it varies so much from region to region. A quick search for your region turned up "Walt's Rainy PNW Blend" at 7-4-9 - not too far off the recommendations. But really shop for just shop for price and local availability within the simplified NPK range of 2-1-2 up to 3-1-3 and you'll be fine.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm THANK YOU very much. I did look up the info, but wanted to know YOUR explanation. Interestingly enough, I cannot find a fertilizer without the P being way high. I’ve looked at several nurseries and about 25 bags and they don’t even come close to your recommended numbers.

Ooooo…I found Walt’s on Amazon! THANK YOU!!!!!

A local agriculture supplier, Terralink

Sure thing - I'll put the seaweed/kelp topic onto my list. Soil testing is already on the list, but in the meanwhile you're right that the self-testing kits are of pretty limited value.

Thanks for all the work you put in to educate growers x @@FraserValleyRoseFarm

I'm also in UK and very interested to know about liquid seafood foliage sprays. I have a digital ph tester too but am dubious about its usefulness. And if like me you heavily mulch with manure how deep should one test the soil (assume it will very with deprh?)

You bet

No. The evidence showed the opposite. Best flowering was with a lower middle number something like 12-6-8 or 15-5-15 (as examples)

thank you so much! cant wait for next spring now lol @@FraserValleyRoseFarm

I'm glad you asked the question, but the premise is way off: there's no one nutrient responsible for flowering! A healthy rose with a balanced supply of all required nutrients will bloom best when the environmental conditions are favorable. In the research (and I read far more studies than the ones I featured) cut flower roses were most reactive to N and K, but as mentioned the growing conditions are also super important.

It's often better to work through suppliers in the agriculture/horticulture industry if they sell to the public. I know the local suppliers here in BC, but I'm unfamiliar with those in Ontario so it may take you a little Googling and leg-work. Have a quick look at someplace like Alliance Agri-Turf for starters - they came up in a cursory search.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you for your respond, according to the Alliance Agri -turf website they dealing with a professional landscape and farmer needs. They are also specialized in lawn, my plan is to re-design my garden, (Eco style), and one of the issues in my garden is also re-doing the lawn, the Alliance Agri -turf company are one hour drive from where I live, however according to their site they are willing to customized fertilize bag according to the customer request, for sure I will contact them, is not a long-distance call and I will keep you posted thanks. 🙂

That's a tough one to troubleshoot from afar. I'd be double checking all growing conditions: exposure, drainage, soil, watering. I'd also be looking for any early signs of pests or foliar disease preceding the leaf drop. I haven't seen anything similar on my Alba's, so I can't offer anything from experience, but some stress is causing the symptoms. From my experience when it's that dramatic it's more often a root problem (over/under watering, poor drainage or overfeeding)

I'd feed them just about the same way - to support healthy growth.

Nitron A35 Soil Conditioner list micronutrients 0.1% iron, 0.05% manganese, and 0.05% zinc. It's diluted as applied, so even those minimal numbers need to be divided by 192 to get the applied concentration. The direct nutrient effect is minimal, so it comes down to how much you can trust some vague claim of enzymatic action. Like other products in the category I've looked at, they rely on "faith" rather than published studies or direct, measurable claims about their product. While it's true that soil enzymes like urease can have strong (positive and negative) effects, the supplier doesn't appear to quantify the presence of any enzymes, nor get specific about the results they observed (if at all). They say it "breaks chemical bonds" (which ones, how much? Surely they've tested it and can offer evidence) and will "enhance soil texture" (try measuring that claim), "improve access to nutrients" (again, which ones, how much?), "improve compatibility" with other scientifically questionable soil boosters like EM-1, and "improve germination" (sure they could offer a number on that...). Like I said at the very end of the video, it's always possible I can be proven wrong about one or another of these "enhancers", but they seem to be putting almost zero effort into proving their claims. Surely if you're going to bottle a gallon of vaguely sweet smelling brown liquid and sell it for $50, you ought to be tripping over yourself to point to the real scientific data that proves effectiveness. Otherwise, couldn't any charlatan bottle some molasses with diluted humic acid for pennies a bottle and make equally vague claims for massive profits.

Thanks. I talk about them here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u0-cnrOZvRo.html but basically it's to protect the roses from the lawn mower & string trimmer

Not so much. I hold back entirely in the garden at about 6 weeks from first frost. In containers, I continue my 2 cycle feed/1 cycle flush when I water, but the watering needs go way down, and so does the feeding then.

Not unless you also need your soil pH adjusted.

Thanks. I hadn't heard about any issues with NPK testing - I would have thought those standards would be pretty well established by now.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarmThey are well established… by chemical fertilizer companies who wanted to keep organic fertilizers from sounding just as good. I’m certainly not against chemical fertilizers (and often use them) but they really do need to play fair and allow others to properly advertise their fertilizer.

What has Zeus to do with it?

Not really - I hold back in the fall to let them settle down for the winter.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm even to the new roses I just got , so just plant them and let be ? Again,thank you .

Yes, pretty much. They're just getting their roots into the soil for now and don't need a lot of excess nutrients.