This video shows how to restore alignment on motorcycle and fix a pulling issue. Hex tool used for front axle with different sizes. Amazon Affiliate link: amzn.to/4busutn
@@MototalkUSA Thanks! I’m installing new forks, wheels, rotors and calipers on my zx10r, and I’ve been watching all kinds of approaches, each showing a different order of things which dont make any sense! But your take on it is the right way to do it, no question👍
@@nitramh24 I'm happy to hear you found value in my video! Thanks for the support man. It takes hours to plan, record and edit videos but a nice comment like this pays off 🙏
Another great video mate, Just changed my fork oil and seals, used your vid to set my front end back up correctly. BTW, I really like that light system you have there on the floor, Need to go see where I can get one. Ride safe, ride fast. 👍👍
I'm in East Haven. I did use some of your video to do the lowering links on my gen 3. I had to remove both oem exhaust mufflers and then the rear shock support to be able to get the lower part of the end link on.
@Mototalk USA thanks man, I'm going to use your video. The same black part to raise that bars is available for my gen too. I already looked. The process is the same thing. Only really the plastics are changed and some of the electronics. We can swap out parts from each gen. Like I used a lowering kickstand from a gen 2 hayabusa.
First of all, thank you very much for the video m8. But I am so confused. Since I made my fork service I have the same issues. But how does this happen? I mean I see you loosen everything except those 2 fork holder at the top. What I mean is, the fork (even when clamped by those 2 lower fork holder) is just spinning around freely. Is it like bending itself straight, and then you screw it up tight together or ? Sry if my english is not so good.
You're very welcome my friend! It's mostly the triple tree clamps that align I thus it aligns the forks when you do this. Also the wheel axle alignment is important as well. I hope this helps out, I know it gets confusing ☺️
It is possible but I'm not completely sure because I also removed the tire a couple days before that and also adjusted the chain too, so it was a number of changes the bike went through.
I have the same problem to my Kawasaki z750. I cant find where is the problem. I changed the wheel bearings/sterring bearings, adjusted the fork and chain, tyres are good. What also can be the problem?
The last time my front tire was the issue, I changed it and was good afterwards so make sure both tires are good, also the rear tire might be misaligned from adjusting the chain. In the RARE occasion the bike might've been in an accident and something is bent.
It is not foolproof to measure the back tire in that manner. You are relying on the manufacturing of the stamped a-frame being within a very tight tolerance. The better way is to measure from the pivot point of the a-frame to the axle center.
@@MototalkUSA If your bike does not have a lot of crap in the way from the swingarm pivot to the axle, you can use a tape measure. If there is shit in the way you could make a tool with a coat hanger (or other thick/stiff wire) and a zip tie. Straighten out the wire and bend the one end 90 degrees to make an "L" shaped tool (note the long straight section needs to be able to span the gap between the pivot and the axle). Cinch a zip tie onto the long section as tight as you can (should be able to slide up and down the wire). Then put the tip of the short leg onto the center of the pivot, and slide the zip tie to the center of the axle, repeat for the other side to see how far off the zip tie is from the axle, adjust accordingly. There is a lot of stackup measuring from the back end like you did, it will get you close, but the swingarm pivot is a fixed point that you can rely on.
@@KOTR2003 yes definitely agree, from one axle to the other would be the most accurate but it's not possibly to go with a tape like you mentioned because of things in the way, and the coat hanger I can picture it flexing and knowing me I'll definitely measure it more inaccurately 😆 But again if it can be done properly that would be the most accurate. On the other hand thinking about it, probably 99,9% don't do this but yet they don't have an issue so I'm assuming close enough does the trick. Also I wonder on a powerful bike like this under acceleration if the wheel is ever so slightly tilted from the force being pulled on the chain.
