After trying everything from gas cap, smoke test, new hoses and a new fuel pump seal for 4 years and still having the engine light come on with the P0455 code, I finally pulled the cluster panel and pulled out the engine light bulb and smashed it. After 4 years of dealing with this stupid code, I finally said enough was enough. Jeep still runs great.
In Calif, we are forced to pass smog checks very two years for 'clean air'. Check engine light and any 'leaks' will FAIL your car and then you can't get registered for the next 2 years.
I was just thinking that an emission leak really isn't going to hurt anything anyway with functioning of engine and driving? I wouldn't sweat it too much. I have a bimmer and got the same code as you. I think it's the canister purge valve but I could play part games all day. Buy this but that, fix this fix that and not know. Gas cap I doubt it. How does a new gas cap fix it 80 to 90% of the time? If I'm wrong, and those stats are right forgive me now.
Thanks for emphasizing using an OEM gas cap. Your statement that 80% of these codes can be eliminated (by the right gas cap) made me purchase a $24 gas cap at the Chrysler dealer and to toss out my $12 aftermarket one purchased at Autozone. Comparing the OEM and aftermarket side by side you can see the OEM is designed to seal much better. You saved me a lot of stress and money days before my daughters wedding!
Great, Concise yet thorough checklist and explanation of most likely items! Not Too wordy, Not too brief! and appreciate you putting them in a bit of sequence of Most likely possibilities! Thanks a million!
I took your advice to buy the factory gas cap at $26.00 for Dodge Ram1500 and the light has gone away after I drove for two days. The Christian Brothers quoted $513.00 for replacing the Leak Detection Pump after a diagnostic test resulted with the P0455 code. You can tell how much I appreciate your video which is well intended. Thank you.
In my 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, I am getting a P0457 code after a check engine light and gas cap indicator light is on. I bought the new factory gas cap, but it didn't clear the check engine light nor the gas cap light. I tried clear the code, and then it just came back on after 30 miles. I went to the dealer, who did a smoke test, but couldn't find anything from it. They wanted to then pull the gas tank off to look at the line from the gas cap to the tank, as well as the connectors/seals there. This would have cost 450, so I put the brakes on them doing it, as the smoke test didn't reveal any leaks. So, I took a more trusted friend, who is going to do the smoke test again. I actually think it has to do with the vent valve sticking open or the cannister purging valve. Everything else runs pretty smooth on it. We update everyone when I know more.
thanks for the information. I've been reluctant about paying $500 to the dealer to fix evap canister and hose on my 2004 Navigator. I just may purchase the parts from Autozone and have a mechanic put them on.
Be careful. Sometimes when you replace a part and that was not the problem it takes a long time for the code to come back especially when its a small leak at the fuel pump , until it's worse. That is actually the most common cause 2007-2009 Sonatas. When my mechanic replaced mine he insisted on using OEM because he had too many comebacks on aftermarkets with altered design.
Thanks for sharing this video. We just bought our daughter a 2009 Hyuandia Accent. We believe the purge valve needs to be replaced as this is a common problem po456 code came up when tested. Thanks for your clear precise explanation. Also, the following codes came up 300 303 and 304. They are all misfire engine codes. The guys at the parts store told her that it may be a spark plug, or wiring. This was in cylinder 3 and 4. Thanks again.
Thank you! To the point and very informative. Finally a channel to subscribe to so I don’t have to sift through all the random (hardly helpful) videos out there. Well done!
I did that with my mom's Old 2012 Acura. Nightmare finding the radio security codes. Good post, thank you. And when you do change the gas cap it takes at least 24 to 48 hours to clear. And what I've found it will clear, just a little patience. After 3 days and isn't clear. Continue troubleshooting.
Wow, this is first time I got the information I'm looking for, you did not beat the bush (around and about) to give information that will help Thanks you for taking time to explain what the code mean,
Thanks for the video. I have a 2013 Dodge Durango. Rather than replace the gas cap, I cleaned it with the proper cleaner. And, I reset the check engine light by disconnecting the negative on the battery. I used Blaster from Autozone. Cleaner must have petroleum-based lube. So far, so good! No check engine light yet!
This is a great video! I just returned the after-market cap and put the original one back. The check engine is gone! So I endorse only to buy genuine cap if you are interested to permanently fix the problem.
Great video! I really appreciate the simple yet thorough explanation, as well as the pics throughout giving a visual to the part or tool being mentioned. Videos like this are what's great about RU-vid. P.s. it was my gas cap. (07 Chrysler town and country)
I agree with Bob No. Most times these codes come on because of the vent valve are faulty or not sealing because of dirt inside. You can usually remove them and take them apart and clean them with compressed air. Most of the cars I work on drive several hundred or more miles a year on gravel roads. Sometimes the vapor canister or lines are cracked due to flying stones. ( windshield repair companies make a killing here!) If you don't drive gravel....maybe check your gas cap.
Original owner of Dodge Durango here.... 280K mi... All emissions trouble codes were resolved by replacing various section of vacuum lines or just fixing splits with gasket Silone sealer and rapping with electric vinyl tape from auto parts store.... Only replaced gas cap once because I didn't realized I was lied to by the dealership.
Great info thx......my wife bought a after market gas cap I'll go to ford and get a real one pull the battery cables and see if that does it if not then a evap test.....sounds like I know what I'm talking about
You can actually cause problems by unhooking your battery to clear the code. In some vehicles resetting the code by unhooking the battery can cause the computer to store the code even further within itself. You're better off taking a 25 minute trip once or twice. It will reset itself if the issue is resolved. This is fine as a small leak evap cope won't hurt anything.
It can also be caused by something as simple as running into the E mark on your gas gauge, i.e. not getting gas until you're running on fumes. If you've done this, the check engine light will come on a day or two later and you'll find this code. Another couple of days, and the check engine light will go out on its own.
I've had vapor hoses, the fuel tank pressure sensor, a plugged filter which is in front of the Canister Vent Valve cause Evap codes on various vehicles. Then it got more interesting with a small leak from the seal thats between the fuel tank and the fuel pump module. Many of these problems were located using the "smoke machine " which can be used to locate leaks from air exiting the vehicle with the windows up, doors and vents closed. If your vehicle's Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning, or H.V.A.C. system is vacuum operated and has a leak like a hissing sound, the Smoke Machine can help find the leak. My worse Evap problem was a Powertrain Control Module or P.C.M. the would INTERMITTENTLY not turn on the purge or V.M.V. valve, which would not allow the gas fumes to be purged from the fuel tank. THAT ONE WAS A FUN ONE ! ! !
007conspiracytheory WOW! That was over a year ago, but the memory of that one is fresh like it was yesterday! While watching the Ford IDS on our laptop, it was showing the P.W.Modulation happening with current being consumed, BUT, no vapor flow! I put my digital multimeter on the PCM pin that grounds the purge flow solenoid coil. with the engine running, I manually (through the IDS) turned on the purge valve, the DMM changed from 14.3 Volts to about .1 volt or less. We have vapor flow. Turned the purge valve off, DMM returns to charging system voltage and no flow. paused a few seconds. Turned on again. DMM changes normally, we have flow. Turned off, no flow, DMM back to charging voltage. Paused. Third time, same thing. Paused. Fourth time, DMM shows PCM trying to ground the purge valve coil, but cannot, voltage returns to charging voltage. Paused. Tried again. This time the third time was the charm! Turned off engine, waited about 1/2 hour, tried again. Third try was the charm! Installed a Reman Ford ECM, retested, all well in Ford Land! I learned that multiple tries trick several years ago with a different vehicle and a different electrical problem. HTH. Mike
Technically smoke is last , pressurized nitrogen with data list monitoring is preferred along with "snoop" or soapy water on all connections . The other problem is that restrictions register as leaks on older software and cars so smoking is less than ideal.
My Chrysler 300 has 60K miles, all the rubber hoses look good from first inspection so even though I read Bob No in the previous comment I think I'll try the gas cap since it's cheap and something I can go myself. If not, then off to the mechanic. Thanks. Good video, easy to understand.
I asked a mechanic friend of mine and he said first clear the code and see what happens in the next couple of weeks. I did and the light on the dash is still off.
removing the negative battery cable clears the light - But - won't pass inspection because the 3 or 4 Evap codes on the inspection will be blank meaning the test is a FAIL until those codes are back online - which requires driving for about 100-150 miles. Then the light might come back on or the code could actually be cleared which is unlikely.
Great video. Quick question: I have an cel code p0456 on my 2013 Corolla S. Had a smoke test done and smoke was coming out of the gas cap. Replaced the old cap TWICE, both OEM models, and I still get smoke coming from the gas cap along with the p0456 code. I checked the filler neck, fuel lip, gas tank, etc. Shows no signs of corrosion whatsoever. I need to pass emissions, help!
OK just went through a P0455 on a 2015 Kia soul for second time. Found out my new Amazon OEM gas cap was not seating right and daughter was not tightening it all the way. It is tight going into the fuel tank hole (zero tolerance) and then I can turn it and make it click with it not being set in all the way. The trick with mine is I have to make sure it is aligned on the threading then push down (It's a little fight to set it right) and it will go down about 3/4 of an inch then I can tighten it and my cap clicks. Reset error code and didn't come back. Had a training session on twisting that specific gas cap. It just needs to be broken in.
I replaced the cap because of a PO456 ... the light stayed off for 5 days and then came back on. It has done this 2x now. I will try an OEM cap next --maybe the aftermarket caps are missing a slight design difference that the OEM one has...
NVLD Pump? I just bought a Dorman 310-500 for my '06 Dodge Grand Caravan. Hoping it fixes my P0440, P0456, P0457 codes. Already replaced the gas cap with a Mopar. I know this is a crap shoot. If this fails, I'll have the smoke test done. Local Chrysler/Dodge dealer is about $79.00. Also, learned a long time ago about not topping up your tank. I stopped doing that about the time the MIL showed up.
I don't know of any auto parts store that will reset your codes. Everywhere I lived, it's either against store policy or illegal by that state! If the new gas cap solved your problem, after a determined amount of starts, it will reset itself.
Question if i replace gas cap and have the check engine light reset. I was told here in arizona that the inspection center can tell the engine light was reset and you will fail inspection. Do you know if that is correct? Because if i buy the gas cap and can't reset the engine light it won't pass inspection any way so I am just confused. Thank you
I changed both sensours on evap on ford expedition gas cap too .Still had a proplem of po455. I removed the fuel tank , fuel pump , cleaned green o ring whitch seals pump to tank. Problem fixed..
Good video bro I have a 2005 Santa Fe and my mechanic told me to get new gas cap and I just bought one from Auto zone and he reset the codes and about 2days later the check engine light came back on. And you said a person should replace the gas with the original factory gas cap. Should I try that before I go get a smoke test?
Great vid my man. Quick question. If my check engine light is off, but I'm still getting the P0456 code, could that still be the gas cap? The mechanic told me it was the canister, I'm not trying to get ripped off. I already paid $100 for diagnostic.
My wrangler x is tripping the p0456 code and I’m almost positive it’s the purge valve. Mainly because I’ve also been having issues starting up every few days
I checked the MOPAR website and found the fuel filler cap (52030377AB) for $126. I’ll just stick with OBD resets. Where would one find a new genuine $24 Dodge Ram filler cap, not after-market?
So you strongly recommended a original gas cap ? Or I should wait the three days and see if the light don't come back ? I'd get those two codes with orreillys and the guy reset the codes Thanks for the good info
