Things I used in this video: 1. Brake Spray Cleaner: amzn.to/2in61X1 2. Tongue and Groove Plier: amzn.to/2inK36h 3. Sledge Hammer: amzn.to/2klPyH8 4. Ratchet and socket set: amzn.to/2inoxOY 5. Mechanic’s Tool Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 6. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO 7. Steel Jack: amzn.to/2Asgjxo 8. Jack Stand: amzn.to/2jGOwBg 9. Common Sense 10. Full HD Camera: amzn.to/2AvoEk7 11. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 12. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 13. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
Are you kidding me?!?? He just throws the calibers and stresses the brake line with all that weight. That’s the worst thing you can ever do to your brake lines.
Scotty, you carry yourself like someone people genuinely WANNA listen too. You've helped me so much! More confident under a vehicles hood because of you and your channel. Keep revving those engines
As a woman with an older model car,I just want to thank you for all your informative videos. It helps a lot when a mechanic tries to rip me off and I can just pull up your videos on my phone and show them you doing a job that takes 15 minutes when they try to tell me it's going to 2 hours(which I have had to do before). Thank you so much and keep up the good work!
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every saturday morning at 10 AM CST on google events. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just go go to this link plus.google.com/u/0/communities/110758243155230074828 and join my community. You will be told each week that a new event is happening the coming Saturday, and you can also ask questions there at my community also. You do have to be a member of google plus to ask questions, so join up, it’s all Free. And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, don’t miss them.
Great video! As a mechanic of 27 years I couldn't tell you how many backyard mechanics towed their vehicles in the shop because they thought they had to bleed the system just to do a simple job like that.
I see you threw the caliper away quite carelessly and let it hang freely on the brake hose, I have always been told to be very careful and put some kind of support for the caliper so that brake hose doesn't get damaged...
A tip for some people. I followed this video after having a car worked on, There is a dust cover that covers the rotor, that the mechanic had bent up against the rotor. Sometimes bending that plate back off the rotor stops that same exact grinding. :)
Dear Scotty, just a note to tell you how much you're video's are enjoyed and extremely helpful, I live in. Michigan, from Indiana was raised with General Motors.my Dad had my nose under the hood as a kid, was always going to the junkyard for parts, and I still love it, again, thanks for all your help.
Another tip: remove the worn brake pad and use it flat against the brake piston when compressing them back in. Just ensures an even distribution across the rim of the piston and prevents any potential damage.
I'm new to this channel and must say, not only was that informative, precise and easy to understand, but i couldn't help but smile through the whole video.
Scotty Kilmer my wife has an 07 Ford edge which is in surprisingly decent shape for living in salt riddled northern Iowa. Her edge makes the worst noise when in reverse only. And it's most of the time only when backing out of the garage. Say we're out and about having it off parking spot it doesn't seem to make the noise. I'm thinking it might be the e-brake sticking. If so, how would you adjust it to stop the noises? Any suggestion is helpful. Thank you very much for your help and time.
please ask questions on my website www.scottykilmer.com But one time here, If it only makes it when moving, then remove the rear tires and check back there for either worn pads down to the nubs, or sticking e brake. if e brake sticks, then lube the cable with Wd 40 and pray it's just corroded and that frees it up.
Thank you Scotty. I have been driving a 1992 Nissan Sentra that I bought used about a year ago. The previous owner took very good care of it. I have all the receipts for when they took it to the shop. There must be 50+ receipts. I'm not that passionate about having another person touch my car though. And why pay when it seems to be so simple. I sure am glad I found your videos. I have seen a few problems on my car that you give videos here for and I am exited to fix it up myself.
Scotty. Another great video. I've got two suggestions, one you'll like and one you won't. First, let's get the one you won't like out of the way. I never use Locktite or anything similar on the brake bolts. Instead, I go the opposite route. I clean the threads and then I use anti-sieze. If you torque the bolts to the factory specifications, they won't come out and they'll be much easier to remove the next time you have to remove them. Rather than hammering on my rachet, I use a 1/2" breaker bar and socket. Here's the suggestion I think you'll like. Whenever I work on the brakes, I take the opportunity to spray the rubber dust boot (especially when the piston is extended) and the rubber dust covers for the sliding bolts with silicone spray. I believe it makes these parts last longer. I spray the CV boots for the same reason. Keeps the rubber from drying out and cracking prematurely. Please keep the great as well as humorous (Mercedes) videos coming!
i agree. i use anti sieze or if there is nothing really handy, i'd just dab the threads with a light oil. prevents rust too, specially in salty, seaside areas
I replaced rear wheel cylinder washer myself. and found difficulties when re-fixing break shoes , so i got it easy by watching ur clips. thank you so much!!
Make sure to loosen your resevoir cap for the brake fluid. When you push the piston back in it can cause pressure which can pop the resevoir cap off and get fluid everywhere.
Stop it please. I have never been so entertained by a mechanic till I came across the Scotty Kilmer Channel. You make greasy hands and rusty bolt fun again. thanks so much. Now on to the next video...
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on RU-vid. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On RU-vid . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
On some modern cars when you force the piston back in you need a special tool, because you need to twist them as you push them in, we discovered this on my brothers kia
You're right. A lot of the asian make vehicles you need a special disc brake tool set to push the piston back in the caliper. I know you can get one very cheap at harbor freight tools that will work great.
The only thing I would recommend, mainly because I've had to replace many calipers is when you are depressing the brake cylinder the one that places pressure on to the rotor, make sure you use the old pad and put it over the cylinder and take a C-Clamp apply even pressure. If you don't you could end up bust the rubber surrounding the metal cylinder and costing you more money than you want to spend. Just a tip!
pellergin I have also done it for years. If the flex line isn't strong enough to hold a 7pound caliper, there's no way it will withstand the hydraulic pressure. The only vehicles I use a hook to hang the caliper is heavier pickups like f350 calipers. The line should never be in Such a bad condition that it will leak from 10lbs tugging on it.
...and then the peanut gallery comes in to defend such an unnecessarily dumb mistake. Yes, you really should hang the caliper. Takes a second, and so many variables are there in many different situations, including pinching the end of brake line against a metallic sheath. It's often much more than just a 10 lb weight evenly hanging on your brake line. At least be prepared to hang the caliper somehow. Perhaps he didn't need to in this case, but when making general-public videos, it always makes sense to show how it's supposed to be done.
Hi Scotty! I've just put new disks and brake pads on my 96 Honda Civic. I went for a ride to try them and I immediately heard this rubbing on the front right wheel. And also, that sound isn't continuous. It's more like " tss tss tss tss...", faster or slower, depending on speed. I must add that before, with the old ones, I noticed that the same wheel was warped. The car vibrated at hard braking at higher speeds. Thank you
@@ricksimpson2167 Open that bleeder and people will get air in the system. Worried about crud?? get a mechanic to flush your brakes after replacing yourself. Those bleeders break and air will get in if not opened properly, while applying constant pressure, and then tightened before pressure is released. This is a myth that people keep rambling about. DIY guys should change and then flush their system via a mechanic with pad and rotor changes if they are worried.
I can be on saturday mornings, watch my live show on youtube. If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on RU-vid. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On RU-vid . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on RU-vid. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VognjkYaMjg.html&feature=c4-overview . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video on the scotty kilmer channel on RU-vid, ru-vid.com , so don’t miss them.
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every saturday morning at 10 AM CST on google events. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just go go to this link plus.google.com/u/0/communities/110758243155230074828 and join my community. You will be told each week that a new event is happening the coming Saturday, and you can also ask questions there at my community also. You do have to be a member of google plus to ask questions, so join up, it’s all Free. And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, don’t miss them.
scotty, I have to hand it to you. 45.50yrs working on cars, and it seems as though you still enjoy it. and, even doin it in your driveway! well, dad put tools in my hand when I was about 5 and I still wrench whatever I need. I have a nice large shop and a heavy duty lift I've had for 25 yrs. I don't work on other peoples cars ( unless they put me in a headlock with a grenade in my pocket) i'll be 65 this year, and , I guess I stiil enjoy it. to a point......good luck to ya!
Scotty why don't you talk about the importance of torque wrenches? I know that most people won't get them because they might only do a job once but torque specifications are very important for parts like brakes.
You can pick up a half decent torque wrench at HF for $25 or less with a 20% off coupon. Might not be the best or real accurate, however its better than just winging it. Especially if you're working on a safety system like brakes. Nothing like having that come back on you legally.
I would not compress that caliper like that, if you have anti-lock brake on it, with out opening the caliper bleeder valve, I was told one you do not want to push back that dirty brake fluid threw the system and two if you do that on a anti-brake system, you can damage the sensors in the pulsing unit. food for thought. P.S. I could not see if this had anti-lock brake system in your video but I figure if the Chevy was 1990 or newer, it did.
That, and cleaning the brake piston is also a good idea. When I do the brakes and the wheel hub assemblies on my car, I'll be changing the brake fluid and cleaning the calipers before putting in the new rotors and pads.
Rotors are warped. You need new rotors. They’re curved, bent .new flat brakes will continue to screech noise and continue a pulsating effect when you brake at a 🛑
@@jasonkeelor3861 i saw this video on youtube where the guide pins for the calipers could be stuck and not letting the breakpads slide back out? hopefully that helps, if not make sure the dust shield is not in the way
@@jerrysantos7460 Already tried all of that. Lubed the slide pins really well and theyre moving freely now. The dust shield WAS scraping but i moved it off and its still making a noise. I honestly have no idea whats wrong. Ill test the wheel bearing again today and make sure the slide pins are still moving. :(
I love this guy. No need for stinking jack stands, just keep clear you will be alright, Kilmer torque specs. for bolts too. Way to "Git'er Done" Scotty.
lol I had a really cheap friend that drove around with a rear brake that was down to the metal for like 6 months..he just sprayed it with wd40 or equivilent to make the scraping not so bad loll
If your friend went to long like that he may eventually have to replace more than just the pads and the rotor. Especially if the metal backing to the pad gets thin enough to fall out and the caliper piston or the pad holder is pushed into the rotor.
He was risking his life and that of everyone else around him. For the small amount he'd spend (less than £50 for the parts in my case) and an hour of his time, he could've replaced the discs and pads.
Dusty Gepner as I've said a thousand times, brake hoses use 1500 plus psi, so they are VERY strong. If they are cracked and worn and brake apart when doing a brake job, they would need replacing anyway. Strong ones could hang for weeks with no damage.
I'm with scotty here. You can hang the brake caliper by the brake line all day long. I drove 200 miles with my brake caliper literally hanging by the brake hose hitting bumps and everything. Didn't break or leak or anything.
woww I just realized he didn't even use jack stands under it either... Scotty I really don't wanna read about why your channel ended because a car fell on you man..
Scotty, I have a 2010 Chevy Silverado 2500hd work truck with a grinding problem. Pads have plenty left, and the rotor looks fine. Wheel bearings are fine too. It's a constant grinding noise no matter if brakes are applied. I hope you get this because I'm at a loss.
You make it look so simple lol I did mine and found out my caliper was seized. I had a fun afternoon 🤣 on a real note thank you Scotty for what you do!!!
at 1:10 you take the caliper off and just swing it to the back, hanging from the hose...and that's after 46 years of experience? Not sure that's a safe bet on old brake lines....especially on a general video for others to learn how the change pads on any car, old or new. Not being critical but it would seem to me that prudence would of utmost importance (safety) when describing important details of car maintenance.
HA, if it were that bad, good thing if it cracked and leaked, it would need replacing then. Those hoses hold thousands of psi pressure, a little hanging does NOTHING to good ones.
AffordBindEquipment My mechanic said it's actually not a big deal for the caliper to hang from the brake line. But I still make sure there's no pressure on it when I do my brake jobs.
@@Sammyhale30 the outer appearance may look together and intact but the inner piece is a very small plastic tube and you wont see it if it cracks or splits open
@@aperson6832 you may think it's okay, but inside the brake lines are very small plastic tubes that the brake fluid flows through and youd never know when it cracks or splits open
Just did the rotors on an '06 F-150, needed a special 36mm socket to take the spindle off before removing the rotors. Also, the spindles have to be replaced with the rotors. I think a breaker bar and torque wrench works better than a sledgehammer, but whatever gets the bolts off safely works for me.
+Viktor Kolev yeah- Um, why does he have a half naked guy as an avatar and saying Scotty is creepy? Hey Victor- time to change your picture bro THAT is creepy.
You know, I got away with no locktite on one brake change because I didn't know any better but this time the caliper started slapping the mount because the bolt came loose. Its also funny because that was yesterday haha awesome videos! Very informative and easy to grasp!
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every saturday morning at 10 AM CST on google events. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just go go to this link plus.google.com/u/0/communities/110758243155230074828 and join my community. You will be told each week that a new event is happening the coming Saturday, and you can also ask questions there at my community also. You do have to be a member of google plus to ask questions, so join up, it’s all Free. And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, don’t miss them.
Hey Scotty, I replaced all of my rotors and pads and then did a brake line flush with new oil, my front brakes are grinding now, any ideas of what could be wrong? Thanks in advance Cheers, Tom.
Thanks Scotty for the information! I have a 2005 Scion Xb and just starting to hear the sound that its time to change my front brakes. I had it checked almost 2 months ago and knew it was close to time to replace them. I just ordered a set and at one point earlier I almost made a mistake to have a brake place do it for me. They wanted $300 bucks to just replace my pads and another $200 if I needed to replace my rotors. Crazy ridiculous! Thanks for the video!
Hi Scotty, I have a Honda 1994 sr4 eg9, about 2 weeks ago I heard a similar kind of noise to the brake pad grind, or brake shield and rotor making contact, however the noise went away, yesterday I heard it again for a few 100metres then boof it was gone.
I let my front caliper dangle while doing the brakes on my 99 grand cherokee, in about two weeks time the metal part of the brake line to the caliper had worn down because it stretched a little and was coming in contact with metal, eventually wearing it down and causing a hole in it. Be careful! If you have a spare jack stand rest the caliper on it
Scotty, I know your videos are made to help everyday people who don't always have fancy tools, but I was wondering if you use air tools at all like impact guns etc when you work on vehicles.
2012 Nissan Titan, new pads, new rotors, new clips, new calipers with brackets. Starting grinding after being warmed up. What do you think is causing this?
My 2002 Honda Civic developed a grinding noise when I applied the brakes and when it ran normally. I had installed the front and back brakes several months ago. As it turned out, one my brake caliper mounting bolts fell out, and the loose caliper would vibrate. I bought a new caliper bolt but added threadlocker to make sure it stays in.
Scotty Kilmer dude, your show is awesome. Love your sense of humor and when ya start laughing at the end of your clips at the idiocy of modern car engineers. Especially on the oil dipstick video with the beamer lol.
Hey Mr. Kilmer, I just replaced both my front rotors and brake pads. Before my right passenger side would shake bad like the wheel was about to fly right off the car. We found out that it was the tire it self, but even after getting a brand new tire, there is still a little shaking between 20-35 mph. It will do so if I am just driving at that speed, or if I am braking. It is not very much, but you can still feel it. My dad say's it is the bearings, but I thought I would ask you. Thanks
Cristie Tarwater could be bearings, realize most good front end shops give free estimates, try one out and see what they say, takes em a minute to check em
Hello Scotty. I always die to wait for your new viddeo. Thx a lot your work for helping people fix their own car. This video is also really helpful. But I think it is better to add the things to be considered. I think it is better to add that pushing brake pedal a few times after finish the job. Anyway I always thank you for your job. HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
mr, good morning, one question how bad is to mix different brake fluid brands?, i changed brake fluid by just changing the master cylinder fluid, so i dont if it can affect the braking performance in some way??
