How to fix slow speed problems after servicing a record changer - when all else has failed. 

BsR tables are almost always fast by a couple percent. Pull the platter and check for debris buildup on the motor pulley first, scrape off if any and try again.

THOMMGB this works well for fine adjustments, but if the epoxy it out of round this method doesn't correct it well

+Gary Spinelli I'm not too familiar with that model. Sometimes they stamp the chassis for more than one model. The motor speed could be separate on another board or on the motor housing itself

OK thanks.

With a large pulley it's better to calculate the enlargement necessary and have a machinist make a replacement. Also make sure your idler and or turret drive is in top shape.

@@JordanPier The idler is very soft and the platter has a very acceptable grip (having to press with quite a some pressure to get it to stop). The motor on this one doesn't seem to fail, I think it's rather a factory error since all speeds are affected differently and the idler still flexing like new. The pulley can be unscrewed, so if I mess it up I could replace it (if I find a spare motor)

margaretsville pull the platter and check that the idler wheel is.on the proper pulley size.and not brushing the top of the 45 pulley. Also check for accumulation of rubber from the idler wheel, which will increase diameter and make.it run fast

thanks friend, I'll give it a shot

+MonsterMovee a bad idler will cause a loss of torque (causing stall during reject cycle), but will usually hold speed in a single tier idler system. It's true that in a double tier idler system increasing the diameter of the top tier can raise the speed -and this should be noted to the machinist that rebuilds your idler (vm, Terry witt, etc) The idler was already replaced in this example. The reason for the slow down (assuming all else has been serviced) is usually due to a decrease in motor pulley diameter (due to wear from prolonged use of an idler that's turned to granite), or a loss of magnetism in the rotor of the motor. In the 1st case this is identified by one particular speed that is slow (most wear) and the others are close to accurate. The 2nd case is almost always equally slow on all 4 speeds.

Thanks for your answer. That's good to know.

That's the tough part, is getting it round enough it doesn't induce rumble.

Thanks Jordan! I will keep buffing!

@@tomtribuzio69 the best advice I have is use an emery board and find a way to brace it on a fulcrum so you have absolute control of the flat side touching the pulley. I listen for the sound of contact, which if noisy Will be a buzz. Lightest pressure is needed to abraid the slightly out of round bit of the pulley until the buzz changes to more of a hiss

How you fix that ?

That is more of a wow and flutter problem as opposed to speed.

Time for a new motor

Lightly sanded the pulley with 1000 grit, applied carefully with qtip stick and let dry, then machined down using an exacto while motor pulley was running. Sand with 600 grit for fine tuning

Got it. Thx so much for the advice.

If you're good with it an exacto is fastest, but fine sandpaper I'm sure would work just as well.

I was considering something like a shrink wrap over the stepped rotor but your JB Weld idea makes good sense. I will try that.

@@GrumpyBumpy I honestly never thought of trying shrink wrap it heatshrink. I thought it might slip on the pulley. May have to try that for shitsngiggles

They make a small shrink wrap used for labelling wires in a Dymo labeler that looks pretty small.

yes Magnavox changers really were superior