I was taught to do it all at once, but some guys will scratch coat the walls. I think it is just a carry over from stucco work. They did a scratch coat for stucco so why not do it for the shower/tub walls too, etc...
Nice! Sometimes I put the wire lathe through the floor and roll up the curb. Same as you have done, but I like the weight of the bed holding down the curb as well as the whole thing being uniform. When you level your curb, why not tap a level line on the outside of the curb and pull your flat trowel in a sloped angle across? Awesome to know guys out there are still doing it the right way and not putting in schluter crap!
I cheat and use a product called easy curb. The liner goes in between the inside and outside pieces of easy curb then screw together at the top about 2.5 inches from shower floor. Then packed mud on both sides of liner.
Hot moped pan and curb , lathe formed to the curb 1x6 nailed to the top of the curb use torpedo level mud face and inside pan curb screed off 1x6 inside outside curb set slope if top of the curb 1/4 “ stick set to outside face of curb
Excellent video! One small thing is that the traditional way to use the chicken wire is to add an additional 2" bend into the shower pan so it ties into your deck mud. It really does need that tie-in because of how much abuse it gets as a step
I’ve been watching this dude for the past 2 weeks. Very technical. Giving good info. I’m gonna do a shower and feel pretty confident it won’t look like a 1st graders sand castle gone bad. Thanks Isaac
Love everything up to you applying the cement/mortar. Set a board, the dimension of the required finish, on top of the curb. You don't have to level it.Take your measurement to have finish curb parallel to shower wall. Apply your mud on both sides of curb and float it flush to the board on top. It takes ten minutes or less. Give it some time to set up then use two c- clamps to secure two straight edges on either sides of curb. Level those straight edges at the required height, dump in your mud and float it flush to the straight edges. another ten minutes.
I wish these videos were around when I was making showers. I would be embarrassed to admit how long it took me to float a curb and my results weren't this good. But my favorite trick in this video is raising the pan up off the floor so you can work on it with out being on your knees. And then you can put it down when you're done. :)
Right on brother. I took my house flip side job to full-time contractor, things like this are setting me aside from my competition. I've done this before but with way more thought and less straight forward. You're saving my butt!
Issac good evening, I love the information on your videos. I was born in a tradesman family, my dad is a union bricklayers, my grandfather is an electrician and I learn some tile setting from my uncle, but I have never learn so much as with your videos. Thanks so much.
I absolutely love your videos, I've done several showers for our customers, we are in the custom home line of work, I can always learn, an old builder told me when we stop learning we're done I've learned so much watching your videos. GREAT WORK! Keep it up man.
Your videos are great. I’ve been in the industry for 26 years. Forgot more than most guys will ever know. I used to try and teach my helpers but some get it and some it goes right through their ears.
Thanks for the video. I like to rip down a 2×6 to the finished height of curb inside and outside. Make a form that is level and plumb, slip it over wire wrapped curb, wet it down, pack it with dry pack, screed off the top, remove form and fill in low spots. Super fast
We have been doing this type of curb for almost 10 years now. One thing that makes the process a lot easier and faster is to screw in hardi board on the outside and just form the top and front of the curb. This way you have a perfect level piece of hardie to build your curb off.
Great videos! I’m a home owner doing a DIY master bath shower and tub remodel and couldn’t do it without getting knowledge from guys like you. Would love to start a second career doing this.
WOW finally some body knows what they are doing. I always say mud it .plus the walls.great job. I hope red guard man is paying attention. Issac great job.
Excellent work I thought people didn’t float anymore, now days everyone using this cement board .Kerdi board etc that don’t last a while I really think that the floating method is the best of the tile industry
Interesting, I have not seen this method yet. Here in Colorado I was first taught, and a lot of guys still do wrap the vinyl with backer board (and screws) and then redguard the backer board. I stopped doing them that way about ten years ago though, because I had started seeing too many repair projects where water was getting outside the shower and finding it's way under the curb framing and swelling the lumber. I now pour a concrete curb encapsulating the liner.
your chicken wire theory helped me a lot I used rabbit wire, thanks for this 5 star video. I did not have your tools but hand floated it to perfection. THank you
Great video! Getting ready to do my first shower and this answered my curb questions. I'm going to make a wood block that fits between float straps to keep everything plumb and square
Great video! Nice to see people floating instead of using schleuter for their curbs and pans! One question, why not use bricks instead of wood? Bricks don’t expand and contract which can crack the grout and/or tiles!
Hey Isaac, great video! Exactly, I mean EXACTLY the way I float a shower curb. So awesome to see you do it and put it out on RU-vid so others can see how it's done and it's been done right for a long, long time. I love the part where you claim it man, you still got it! That sense of satisfaction and accomplishment when you nailed it really hit home with me. Great job!
Thank You for making this video .I have my first DIY curb to do and have seen so many videos where they screw right through the pan liner and I know that is asking for a leak. Thank you again
I'm in Louisiana, used mud when I started in late 80's but use backer board now on curbs. I drill holes or cut lines in backerboard then silicone them on the back side then put screws threw and silicone on top then hydroban on top and haven't had any issues in the around 15 years I've been doing this method. Didn't start using Hydroban until probably 6 years ago, but still haven't had issues on jobs I did before. When I floated curbs, putting something under level and bracing with bricks works so you don't have to hold it makes life much easier. I actually like floating more but the company I do most of my work for prefers using the backerboard.
👍🏻nice mud job. I don’t know why I’m watching this after work, but thanks for taking the time to make these videos. We scratch our floats so it’s interesting for me to see slightly different methods at arriving at the same goal. I bet that’s the first curb you’ve done without knee pads😀
Just out of curiosity, what is the school of thought behind a single coat vs. a scratch and brown? And I wonder why it appears to be regional. Once in a blue moon we will do a backsplash that way and I’ve never liked how long strips take to set up.
Thankyou for the effort to film this. I watch your videos and what I take from it is that you put effort, time and pride in your work. ...It shows!...Great work and I appreciate it.
Fantastic video! I found your video after seeing a bunch of other people screwing into the top/sides of their curb (why have a waterproof liner if you're going to poke holes into it??). I really enjoyed the way you explained things. Video length was perfect, camera angles great, just awesome.
first rate job and no shortcuts! excellent video! i like the way you explain every step that you do. perfection is made up of seemingly trivial details and perfection is not trivial!
Isaac I'm very happy you showed this video. It shows the old school craft. It's not for everyone but I believe it's the best way. I work in alot of very old homes that have mud showers that are 50+ years old with felt and lead pan liners. I would like to see any of the new methods last that long. I did read somewhere in the comments about a wicking system Vs a top sealed system and I have seen the results of pans with liners and top membranes. The mud smells of mold and is still wet. It's one or the other not both. I'm in Michigan so it may depend on the climate your in as well. Keep up the great videos!
Thanks! Love your videos man, you are a REAL professional, and I mean that because you show things you do that turn out awesome, and show the few things that you have done in the past that could have been done differently/better.
@@TileCoach Birmingham Alabama. I generally scratch coat all of my walls( tub hop ups, shower walls, ceilings and curb). It's good to see another tile mason controlling all the variables.
I’m old school I mud all my curbs. Like the the cedar shims I’ll try that technique next one I do seems like it will work a lot better, thanks for video and time
I use the excess mud I screed off the inside to hold my straightedge up level , and then for the front I always carry 1x4 and use it as a form board, leave it overnight and it just is so crisp! Nothing beats floating
Isaac Ostrom yeah I use to engage in all the tile forums and yes people tend to talk down on floating, man when a shower is floated though, it is so nice to tile , solid, flat, plumb. I’ve done some other methods and they are ok , I just get tired of using thinset backbuttering to straighten out walls. It’s a lot of labor, I get it, it’s really easy to carry 5 sheets of kerdiboard into a bathroom and be done with it, and it is a skill to work with mud , and if a diy tile guy hasn’t received proper training,they aren’t gonna know how to sling mud. I did a 4 year apprentice under a union setter from so-cal , I went on to work for a company that 100 percent used cement board, then took my license test and went back to floating 👍🏼
Isaac Ostrom Thanks for all of your really helpful videos. Did you end up doing one comparing cement board and floating? As a DIYer I’m trying to do the best job for my skill set so that comparison would be really interesting.
I'm a builder and if you know what your doing. It doesn't matter if it's wood or concrete. The right steps get perfect results. Bunch of hackers out there. Tile coach is good.
I've found screwing a 2x6 or whatever finished height you want, to the floor, in the front the curb 1" away from the wire. It gives you a staight/flat outside edge and a flat level top (sloped of course). Then I just go big in the inside and use a straight edge to cut the inside to the desired width.
Thank you for the detail instructions! I've replaced quite a few bath tubs and tile work, now I'm doing my first shower pan/curb, a little nervous about it.
I build my curbs out of high strength concrete. Frame out your curb with forms. Put 2 lengths of 1/2” rebar running from right to left 3/4 of the way up from the floor.Drill into the shower framing with a paddle bit and insert the rebar. Then run your pan liner up between the rebar in the center of your curb. I do high rise apartments about 3 to 5 pans a day.
Mike , what will be the final height and width of your curb not factoring in thin set and tiles? Like your idea!! One more thing , the two length of rebars will be side by side , correct? How far apart ? an inch or so? ..and like you said 3/4 of the way up.
Keep up the good work and you a great teacher to. I preffer a single 2x6 standing on edge instead of the 2x4 on a flat. The shower curb with 2x4s just gets to wide in my opinion. On seperate note.I know you only made a mock up of this shower for teaching purposes, but the pan liner at the top of the curb should be about 3 inchs above the "Finished" curb height.
Question for anyone who might know. Does it matter when I float the curb? I've laid my preslope (over plywood with a moisture barrier and lath) and will put down the liner, then lath over the curb. Do I want to float the curb before my top layer of drypack, or can I do it after that is done? Does it matter? Thanks for any feedback and Thank you for the awesome advise! you've saved me a ton of time with your tips and videos!
I use mud or tile scraps to hold up my inside edge. Then I have my helper hold up the outside edge and get it perfect in one shot like he mentions. Nice curb though!!
What I do makes it a little easier. I pack all the mortar on top and I am very liberal with it, then I take a pre cut board of Melamine that is cut to the width I want the dam. I pound the Melamine down so all the mortar squeezes out, then I use the edges of the Melamine for a trowel guide. To me it is so much easier.
I am a plumber in the NYC area. Years ago the tile setters always did this but to save thickness they would take a 2*6 and stand it on end instead of laying 2*4 on the flat. Most of the guys I worked with ripped an inch off th get it lower but the 2*4 on end was considered to low. The ones I did for myself are all mudded curbs still best method.
Any reason you didn't use expanded metal lath?,..Rather than regular lath? I've never seen this lesser type used on a shower curb or floor. ALthough not as strong, I suppose it would work. Thanks for the video. Glad somebody has the energy for this.
What a lot of guys do for their cubs for waterproof is install vinyl, then install board with screws on top and both sides and waterproof the board with a liquid membrane, or of course your Schluter/Wedi curbs etc. This would slightly increase the height of the curb one half inch compared to 2 inches of float. Low profile curbs and barrier free showers are the norm now. Would you ever use two 2x4's to save the extra 1 1/2" height?
Well, I was talking about multiple systems, but maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong. I'm nearly positive that the NTCA states that using backerboard such as gypsum board (drywall) or concrete board etc. in conjunction with a crack isolation liquid membrane (Redgard) is approved as well as systems such as Schluter kerdi membrane installed on gypsum board (drywall) is also approved whether on walls or curbs. Also, I see you guys use a lot of Schluter shower kits which is a full seal system meaning "no water in, only water out." which is also a NTCA approved method. I'm not that familiar with TCNA, but I'm sure they have similar approved methods of waterproofing for shower's.
Isaac Ostrom Mahalo for the interesting video🤙🏽. Couple ? If you don’t mind, you say we can’t tie the two in meaning red guard the shower wall backerboard to the mud bed mix shower pan? And 2nd ? Is you guys say it’s a moisture sandwich on shower pan with red guard and liner kinda curious when does the weep holes kick in. I just hear this all over the John bridge forum as well as youtube. Aloha
Isaac Ostrom MAHALO🤙🏽 SO IF THE RED GUARD OR ANY TOPICAL MEMBRANE ON THE SHOWER PAN IS APPLIED WITH A WEEP SYSTEM AND WATER GETS CAUGHT IN BETWEEN(mold sandwich) WOULDNT IT FOLLOW THE PAN LINER WITH PRE SLOPE TO THE WEEP HOLES? JUST A ? MY FRIEND WHERE I NEED TO CLARIFY FOR MY OWN GOOD AND YES I DO HAVE A TCNA HANDBOOK IT HELPS ALOT BUT THEN AGAIN JUST LIKE THE JOHN BRIDGE FORUM WHERE THERES A TOPIC SECTION (liberry) AND HOW TO BUILD SHOWERS BUT ALOT OF PICS ARE WITH GREEN BOARD ON WALLS🤔... I SEEN TEST WITH RED GUARD ON CARD BOARD, DRY WALL, CBU, AND EVEN BROWN WRAPPING PAPER AND IT WAS WATER PROOF BUT THEN AGAIN ONLY SCHLUTER kerdi CAN USE THEM ON DRY WALL BACKING I SHOWER AREA? MAHALO AGAIN MY FRIEND I JUST WANNA KNOW WHATS THE RIGHT ANSWER BC ALL THESE TEST THAT ARS BEING PERFORMED IS PROVING OTHERWISE AND I CONTACT SCHLUTER AS WELL WHOS LOST IN THE FROST😂😂😂🤙🏽
Awesome Vid! I am not a mud guy here in jersey but I do mud shower bases and floors when needed. But this is def a very good method to know.Thank you for making this video!
After water finds its way through the mortar on top of the curb what pushes it to the inside of the shower? Shouldn't the top of the curb have its own preslope under the liner? I understand that above the liner is slanted towards the inside of the shower but that doesn't seem enough. Same principle of the preslope of the shower floor applied to curb.
Just seen this video and did my curb last night just like this but wish i wouldnt seen the part of leveling it first wouldve made it much easier lol! But for the first time as a DIY i think it came out pretty good? And its leveled all around !:)
Great tutorial. Starrtile’s video actually convinced me to screw on backer board but I won’t anymore after seeing your video. I did it your way about 10 years ago, and I’m ripping it out for another remodel and guess what? No mold, no dampness, no smell, no nothing. So if I got this right, you want around 3/4” of the mortar on the sides and top? And is doing the curb first before floating the floor a preference choice?
I do it in the same way, only that I rely on the size of the tile and I do the same in the shampoo box to have everything cimetrical and not have weird cuts.greetings 👍👊👊
