I think the reason some people are having problems with the reverse flush method is that you need to run the lever adjuster to full out before trying to reverse bleed.
That might be why I’m in here raging swearing I wasted my on a Magyar hydraulic clutch. So ur saying set the lever all the way out then force the fluid up
I just figured it out, there is a 7mm hex just under the nipple, I was turning the 11mm hex under that causing the whole bajo fitting to loosen up...I thought it was one integral fitting......It's the little things Bob....
When I open the fitting all the fluid comes out around the banjo fitting and not into the bleeder fitting and into the hose....it doesn't work...? It does the same thing when I try to reverse bleed...? 2020 XC-F 350, not working for me.
I'd say reverse bleeding is better to just add a bit if you have air bubbles. But if you wanted to replace all of the fluid it would take too long as you'd have to stop every few seconds to suck it out of the top. By just bleeding from the get go you can start with empty lines then reverse bleed to fill.
They showed both methods for informational purposes in case someone doesn't have the tools for reverse bleeding, or in case someone just wants to do it the normal way.
@@YSPDJapan I just can't wrap my mind around why some bikes utilize these while others and even top end ones use cable. Having to bleed this is annoying and it can develop problems later if you didn't get em all out.
@@SilverCyclist My reading of it is that hydraulics are self adjusting whereas cable you have to manually take up the slack if any, but it's splitting hairs I think. Cables are simple.
I tried to push new fluid in and it just blows out of the threads of the zerk fitting, pushed even harder and the hose popped off the syringe and blew fluid all over my face and eyes ?????
this hydraulic clutch has a bleeder/banjo bolt as a part of the hydraulic line so you have to reverse bleed it. other KTM like a 690 enduro have a bleeder that is separate from the hydraulic line, similar to a brake system. in this case you bleed it like a brake system by flushing it until there are no bubbles. cheers.
I had to replace my clutch unit at the handlebars. I tried to reverse bleed it but the fluid would just spill out at the nipple and not go up the line. I then just used the first method. Is this good enough or will I have air in the lines now? Clutch feels okay I think
fc 450 2017 19. magura slave cilinder fail I used a tight metric oring to fix. eBay kit. 19 mm inside diameter 2.5 ...original one can last for years if your lucky 160 hours. 30 if unlucky. then used cheep castrol high performance dot 4.
I'm just curious as why you have to Bleed. Could this be accomplished during the flush. Once you have completed the flush, could you tighten master cylinder and just fill from the top reservoir. Or do you need to bleed from master cylinder up to reservoir.
Me too !!! Is the video is supposed to show 2 different ways of doing the job ? I would assume that but it is somewhat confusing... IMO, the first way which is flushing would be the point of replacing the clutch fluid paying a close attention of not getting any air in the system. Same procedure as bleeding the brakes. I would believe the reverse bleed would be more efficient in the fact of getting rid of some air stuck in the clutch line ONLY if it feels like it. The clutch fluid would be replaced at the same time anyway. On the other end, I read of doing so might/would damage the clutch MC gaskets because of the fluid pressure being injected from the bottom !!!
No flushing shouldn't allow any air in = no need to bleed from bottom . If you completely empty the cylinder you need to bleed it from bottom up . My take anyway , I think that is right
Skip the beginning and just push new fluid up through at the bleeder. Will require more sucking out at reservoir but less odds of getting air in the system fooling with the lever.
I just did my 350xcf brakes and tried it the reverse method with the syringe pushing new fluid up. air air air. So much fluid was burping out from around the bleeder screw threads regardless of how much I backed off on the screw. So, I just did it the "normal" way I've been doing it for 30yrs, top to bottom and all was good. I have a feeling the clutch will be the same. It does appear that he is stating that you need to do it both ways to complete the job.
I have the syringe kit and reverse bleeding isn't forcing the fluid into the master cylinder ,but it is at the top of the braided line at the master cylinder cause I loosened it and then forces the fluid up to it,why isn't it going into the master cylinder?
Same! Ive wasted an entire can of oil because I have to put so much pressure to try and get it to go up but it keeps popping off the banjo bolt and spraying everywhere. What am I missing? New master cylinder rebuild too.
@@JraksdhsMy problem, come to find out, isnt the bleeder. I disconnected the hose from the master cylinder and it flows just fine. When I hook it back up, I cant get it to flow into the master cylinder for some reason. Newly rebuilt master cylinder as well.
i bled my ktm 65 clutch and it’s really hard to pull i tried reverse bleeding regular pumping and opening and it’s really stiff and it dosent even do anything PLEASE HELP
KTM will most likely recommend Motorex Top Speed 4T 15W-50 or equivalent but you will want to check the service manual for your specific bike. We have oil change kits available that will come with the oil of your choice, a crush washer, and a funnel. If you enter your bikes year, make and model it will give you a few options of oil that will all work great. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-2-stroke-transmission-oil-change-kit-p
i think if your bike have DDS clutch system, you have to open the clutch cover and see the position of the bolt on spring ring. There's 3 different position. The different position adjust the height of the bevel spring, that may have to do with you clutch reacting too early. though i can only imagine having clutch react too early if i had installed a new set of clutch plate and set the spring ring bolt on the wrong position. Did you put a new set of clutch plate on your bike?
Reverse bleeding literally never works for me, it wont push fluid up the line to the reservoir. It just spews out somewhere else...same with the brakes! What am I doing wrong!?
@@Chris71920 awesome! i just ordered the Magura syringe kit and a flush pump kit with brembo dot 4 fluid. Hoping mine are just due for new fluid and bleeding. They are a bit spongey and hard to find neutral while running.
Are you talking about the syringe thing? I had to improvise with the brake fluid so I used a spray bottle nozzle and sprayed it out in to a bucket. Just make sure it's clean, I used soap on the outside and sprayed water to clean the inside, then just keep spraying until there is no water left in the little tube. I plan on doing that for my RC8R's hydraulic clutch.
