I'm a finish carpenter since 2003. Just an indoor cat. Your videos are awesome, you're a great carpenter. I bet hanging doors behind your crew would be nice. Cheers!
Yeah anyone who has used LVL will tell you there is plenty of both transverse and lengthwise shrinkage unless you have the house conditioned with materials sitting inside for months before making measurements / cuts. LSL and “high grade” OSB also move quite a bit especially if they get rained on but even if they don’t get rained on.
@@2brazy4ubitch "Plenty" = much less than dimensional lumber. Not a good argument. In so far as rained is concerned, that need not be mentioned. Wood and rain have never gotten along well, unless you're talking about trees.
The point would be more that all wood and engineered wood moves quite a lot. LVL, plywood, OSB, LSL, everything. So as long as everyone working with wood products knows that and designs to accommodate the associated movement all is well.
I'm sure you already noticed, but you put glue on the riser treads before you actually squared up the stringers so some of the glue didn't actually adhere to anything..
I framed houses for around 10 years in the early 90’s before nail guns and cordless tools were widely used. Got into HVAC because I didn’t think my body would hold up to 40 years of hand framing I guess I would have been ok with all the advantages these days. Great job!!
@@2brazy4ubitch ya they were around in the 70's and glue wss a must onn floors ect in the 90's just got better not stronger just better for the environment waste. Since they took certain solvents out.
I always run a small strip of tar paper between the spacer board and the stringers and framing. I find it helps prevent the sqeaks by wood to wood contact.
@@2brazy4ubitch I cut 3 1/2" strips of tar paper/roofing felt and staple them to both sides of the 2x4 spacer board so that there is no wood on wood contact with the stringer or the studs that they are attached to. This helps eliminate squeaking
Since you furred the stringers off 1-1/2" what will fill that space? Drywall and stringer trim? Also would this be the same way you would build the stairs regardless of if it is carpet or hardwood?
Enjoyed watching your videos always a learning experience I enjoy the honest commentaries and the humor as well . Keep on doing what you are doing .Thanks
A lot of glue and don't miss if you nail. If you screw just use the right screws and nails ring shanked preferably and a knee wall under stairs if possible helps with movement. Those are the rules I use for quality stairs and good lumber especially not cupped. Engineered lumber if it's not finished is best.
Subscriber saying hello from across these great states in ATL Georgia. Efficiency and methodical framing with happy people, doesn’t get much better. Thanks for the content.
So the way those guns work you actually close off at the tip so it's not supposed to. My experience using the OSI subfloor adhesive is you do have to clean them semi regularly. Could just be that product. I ended up throwing all that crap away in frustration at one point. They have a lot more brands now so I've thought about going back to using some of it.
I'm looking forward to getting my hands on them. A little pricey but the pros of it seem well worth it. I have the small dispenser for the great stuff which works similar but dispenses a different product. That gun you close off like this one and can keep a product on the gun for 4-6weeks just closed off. After that time frame if you haven't put a new can on and squeezed a bit out you would then have to run a can with cleaner through it. I would guess this gun is probably the same? Would like 2 know from some experience as well tho
You need one of them cheap halogen work lights in a jerry rigged box made of scrap board and tyvek. Keeps everything warm, can even dry your gloves but leave a hole in top to let the heat out because it gets HOT!!
I’ll NEVER. Purchase another Passlode product. I had a nailer misfire and the projectile actually went through the aluminum guide. I removed it, filed the burrs, but it never worked properly even after that; it would always catch and dry fire. Contact customer support, because it’s was only 3 months old and the guy pretty much told me I was on my own.. I sold it another guy as parts, because his needed a rebuild, after using his for a about a year…
Really enjoy AF vids because this guy is good, candid, and mostly just gets down to business. Not a fan of channels where the guys try to be both tradesman and entertainers.
Is there much of a difference between carpet grade and stain grade stairs at this point in the project? I assume you would adjust your riser and tread sizes to account for the finish material that will be laid over it in the finish process, but would any other considerations or changes be necessary?
So are you guys doing skirt boards even though it's going to be carpet? Just curious what's going on with the inch and a half spacing on each side I know a half inch will be taken up by drywall.
Unless it's perfectly straight..you just cut up firewood. I pinch that base plate or just use the rip guide that comes with the saw. That skate plate I never seen but definitely seems like a nice addition..looks like you can get 24" rip out it.
When I pulled the carpet off the incredibly squeaky 40 ye old stairs (carpet was 40 yrs old too, eww!) I wondered what I would find. It looks like they built the stairs to your specs. Not a screw in sight. My resolve is to never build stairs without screws.
@@AwesomeFramers also, even if the stairs look very similar, I’m sure your workmanship is far superior. I didn’t mean to offend you. The nails are very large but I can believe they were made of inferior metal. I saw a UBC from 1943 that said “use metal nails” everywhere I’ve driven flathead screws, the floors and stairs quit squeaking. I predrilled and countersunk each one. I’m a weakling old lady so need all the help I can get setting the screws. I thought maybe screws weren’t used because the installers didn’t want to take the extra time. You put in those stairs in 35 minutes. I’m totally in awe of that!
Do you leave the threads like that, or do you come back and screw them later? I was always told that nails can be the source of squiks. Two big thumbs up for your channel all the way from Norway.
@@kickyourfaceandlaugh607 where I work we use the quick drive to screw it down, I would prefer just nailing everything down just to get it done quicker but at the end of the day, as long as Im getting paid and the boss is happy I don't care.
Ever try to bend a screw. What happens they break nails will bend with the movement. And ever try to pull a ring shaped nail good luck you end up just breaking the heads off and it's still nails together. The shape and friction activates the glue on them. I never used a screw with that glue on them. But haven't seen everything.
Dude I get it. I drink so I don't have to use my brain. Shuts that stupid thing off and just work work work. I get so much done that I don't remember, it's like free labor man.
