How to Install a Prehung Door FAST 

Thanks for sharing. I just watched for the comedy. Learning how to install an entry door was a bonus. Great lesson.

Just a side note that this is an effective method for lightweight doors, but with a heavy solid core door (50+lbs), might want to consider solid (shimmed) anchor points behind the hinges, esp. top & bottom. Over years of opening/closing, fasteners in the middle of the jamb can act as a pivot point, which leads to the door sagging a bit. Manufacturers like Anderson include matching hinge screws that are long enough to go through hinge and jamb into the RO framing. Also might want to consider stainless steel door pans - foot traffic over the threshold can deposit a terrific amount of moisture over time, especially in climates like the PNW. Costs more and takes longer, but worth it down the road - just my $.02. Thanks for posting, love this channel.

Nice. I've also learned to replace at least one of the screws in each hinge with a longer one that can go through to the framing.

I've always thought that if the shims are held by tension, they would eventually fall away from expansion/contraction, I suppose the screws would still hold the position of the door. Great, timely video!

"Those are not the droids you're looking for!" Using that quote in framing... Epic!

Hello and thank you for the videos that you provide. I find them entertaining and helpful. I am a custom home Designer / Builder in eastern North Carolina and ironically I have gotten to the point where I really don't let the framers install the doors because they don't do some of the things that need to be done such as the things in your video. I am a “young” 60-year-old hands on custom home builder of higher end waterfront homes, and I actually enjoy doing this part so that I know we can ensure years of problem free, leak free door installations. Many of our doors on the water side of the home are in openings of 6 to 12 feet wide, as well as conventional single opening swing doors. This is the first time I've ever commented on anything of this sort but I would share couple minor things that we do that maybe of interest and your installation procedures. • We live in an intercoastal high-wind area and we have used the JAMSILL plastic door sill as part of our process, • I would normally build my door opening up with 1/4 inch luan or equal because of all the LVT's and LVP's now it keeps the door high closer to the desired clearance for flooring and a entrance rug / mat of sorts. (I used to use the half inch or 3/8 until the flooring selections have changed with our customers. • The other thing that we do is to check the level of the sill area entire opening and actually put a level across the sub floor sill area and use shims about every 8 to 12 inches to get that perfectly level. I see that you did this afterwards but then it would separate the door slightly from your adhesive underneath if we had to shim at that stage. (even though you're probably put a lot on so it may not matter) I'm just sharing the way that we've done this to get that subfloor shimmed very easily like that and then our luan that we place over it should be perfectly level and all the components we put on afterwards can be directly on that luan. You made reference to adding many nails to this particular piece and I get it, because it's really not going to go anywhere. However, what we do with the luan is simply use a pneumatic crown stapler and we're able to pepper that luan on down very quickly and easily with many fasteners. • Lastly what I found helpful is carrying a 4 or 6 inch PLASTIC putty knife for this installation which helps me tool out the flashing tapes into the corners for a nice clean contact between the horizontal and vertical areas at that corner. I see you used the zip products, and you have zip products throughout your house. I've been using the Tyvek flex tape four years, and it seems to work for us as well. ** Curious if this goes through to you because as I said before I've never really commented on any videos, but I do find your videos enjoyable to watch because of your comedic demeanor and overall way that you present quality information. I wish you were a framer in our area here because as you will know the labor force is continuously being challenged. **On another note, if you know any craftsman carpenters, project managers or hands on project foreman that would be interested in coming to work here in eastern North Carolina on the intercoastal please send them my way! PS what was that Blower Screw gun looking tool? Is it just a blower? Thanks again and keep it up!……………Ron Sound Home Builders, Inc.

Not only do I get the notifications, I also saved this to my “DIY” folder 😃

Hot? Must be the air temperature 😃 Nice shinny hammer! Great Video! The Gary Katz link Great - thank you for the link! I have relied on his work for years and he deserves a lot of praise.

Can't wait for JLC Live, this will be my first one

So glad you mentioned the story about the RO's being the wrong size. We just spent half the day preforming surgery on our window openings, of course the only day out of the week the plumber showed up. Never seen doors installed like this, idiot proof and bullet proof

Gary Katz and Rick Arnold are the best they rock.So are you Tim, One of the best.Welcome back ,missed you,love your videos. Thankyou. 👍💪

I have Gary’s books and watched his videos and he is a Master Carpenter. I skip the tape and use a product called Jamsill Guard. Goes in easy and offers more protection I believe. Good job as always with entertainment!

Tim you’re a legend.

I subscribed at 57 seconds, great video

Awesome explaination! I sometimes add security blocking into the adjacent framing, shim right under the strike side and use 4" #12 screws to secure the door from the neighbourhood bear from breaking in. Top notch video as always!

Outstanding demonstration!

I think you are underestimating my idiocy. Pretty sure I could mess this up pretty bad.

Youre videos are awesome! Thanks for going through all this in detail!

Shem behind each hinge and door latch into the framing. Some kicks the door it will fail to keep unwanted guests out.

I appreciate your content, thank you!

Great vids

Super appreciate your content and the work you put into creating it. I’m a young(ish) builder who has been in the industry on and off as mostly a general contractor employee for about a decade. It’s been fun to start really digging into and learning all the ways of building that I haven’t learned from my employers and feel like I’m becoming someone who can build on their own! I’ll be sure to start paying it forward as I move into more leadership roles :)

i like when RO is bigger 1" then door frame thats give you space for spray foam specially if they using R ZIP thats mean they looking for more efficient house

Some helpful things to consider in the interest of long time performance and no call backs. Prehung exterior units and interior prehung as well. 1. Don’t drive staples holding blocking. Snip them. You can get an occasional hook through the face of the jamb if you drive them. Same for interior doors. It only has to happen once to remember this. 2. Exterior doors before drywall and interior doors after drywall. In both installs, toe nail some 3” screws through the jack studs into the shoe plate and header, catching both at hinge and strike side. Sink some extra 3” screws through the length of the jack to make sure it is tight to the king stud and it will stay that way especially if you box frame and face nail your studs to the plate. Taller doors catch fire stops also if you can. Hard to do with drywall but be creative. This will unify the frame …think gusset. 3. As soon as you can open the door, check the hinge gains. Some millwork shops can be sloppy and you want to check that all hinge screws are snug and the hinge is seated properly. 4. On the door in the video, you can screw behind the weatherstrip. Bugle heads hold better than trim head screws. 5. When you are happy with the set and your reveals are good, then loosen the jamb leaf on the top hinge and drive a screw through the jamb so it’s hidden and not in any of the hinge holes that are there. Remove at least one hinge screw and use a matching screw head but with 3” shank. These typically are included with the door. 6. Use a security plate (anti forced entry) at the strike and recess it into the jack or just have the rockers leave it exposed. You don’t want to shim the drywall with the plate. casing will cover it. Today, an anti forced entry plate is almost a must. On interior doors we secure all jacks with long screws after drywall with toenails and a few along the length to remove any gaps in the framing. Lumber shrinks and twists as it dries in and framers may not toenail jacks to plates and headers. Approach the opening as if the framers forgot to nail the jack studs to the kings. Out of curiosity, where is the header at that opening?

Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸

Thanks Tim. I’m a subscriber, but just watch for the comedy. LOL Keep up the good work.

On a new construction house...with correct framing....with no previous rot....

Ty

The “pause for laugh” after the hot joke was outstanding

Very similar to how i do my doors. I use a laser instead of a level, and i put screws in the hinge rather than outside it.

Interesting method. I don't haven't used this one before. The one I was taught was put the door in, mark location of hinges by pushing hinge jamb to framing. See how much gap you have on the other side take door out put a flat Shim if needed in the marked areas of the hinges. We would have a box with different cubies for 16th 8th and so on shim stock nail them on to the spot where your hinges go. Then put door back in screw off the hinge side after caulking bottom of course making sure its level. Then just set reveals. I know this explanation is terrible it's easier to show it. But I could hang a lit door in 10 mins no problems heavy doors takes two guys and sliders obviously are there own beast.

I always remove the weatherstrips. its easier the hide the fasteners and it helps to see if there is any cross leg

@2:34 I’m pretty sure that was a “okay..” like in Wayne’s World lol I rewatched it like 4 times. Only thing missing with tucking your “hair” behind your ears like in the movie. Great video

I’ve been wanting to count the number of times I open and close a door to hang it. Whew! I think the hinges are worn out. Time for a new door.

Correct

Let me join your crew. Would make framing even better 😂

Do you happen to have any tips/links on installing exterior French double Doors? I always have issues trying to get all of the reveals line up. Every video I find is for interior doors.

It wasn't taught wrong,it was learned wrong.😮😂

I'm one of your 3%

I tack everything with finish gun adjust shim then go back and screw

Prehung doors have been around since the 50s. But some of the tools apparently needed to install them were not. lol Nor were the large box stores where most modern builders buy them.

What kind of clip do you have on your driver? Thanks!

I have a question ❓ What about the internal drywall. Should the drywall be in line with the internal frame of the door then the finish frame go around.? Otherwise how the drywall impact on the frame that you just installed. You know what I mean?

Installing an exterior door in garage. Always just glued(maybe screwed the threshold to concrete. You agree with that or do you put something between threshold and concrete? Liquid flash maybe??

Love your work, get that camera closer so I can see it, please and thank you. No droids to see here

How much are you charging in total labor to do all of this work in your area?

Hey awesome framer.. what program do you use to edit your videos?? I am also an android fan and looking for suggestions from a pro! Thanks!

Another reason to not run a fastener through a shim (mostly cedar) it splits them. My old boss taught me that. Gary Katz: the reason I keep a crescent wrench in my tool bag.

I’m in the 3.8%

The "other IBS" show? 😮

On remodel, I always check the threshold for level so Im not fighting a parellelogram. New construction of course different

have you ever thought of somehow making the king and jack studs perfectly square so that you could just nail on jambs directly to them without shimming?

Number one: If you close your eyes this is a video of Ryan Reynolds explaining how to install a pre hung door. Lol. Number two: don’t take offense that I didn’t hit the bell for notifications. I don’t do that for anyone. Imagine I did that for everyone I’m subscribed to, my phone would buzz constantly and kill my battery before noon.

Watching the door instal and thinking about my balcony door that requires two guys to lift. The frame is not included. The good old fashioned metal frame covered in thermal broken plastic.

permit me to tell you a story.....those are just buzz words....😂😂

This guy doesn’t even ask the owners do they want self closing or self opening doors 😂 just puts it in neutral.

If that is an 8’ level, this dude must be 7’ tall! LOL! Doubtful, on both counts!

Never understood why Carpenters set door's with the door in the Frame... False! Remove the door, pre-set the frame first. Best method is, Hang a plumb bob on C/L of door frame and shim 4 corners to the proper dimension, use the door level for straightening the frame only. Now install door in frame and make adjustments as u set the reveals, etc. U would be forced to remove door if it was custom [ wide/tall/heavy] so why struggle???