Awesome advice. ... I installed coil with eyeball approach - resulted in sporadic misfire. Took your advice , used notebook paper ( folded ) to adjust /set gap and sporadic misfire gone. Steady and true at full throttle now. Thanks !
Thank you this video helped me a lot. After trying everything with the coil. I did exactly what this video told me to do and my lawn mower started right off the bat, thank you.
Thank you very much for your video, the folded paper was a help because my replacement magneto came with no instructions or gap suggestions... The tractor started on the first try, so I'm happy.
Thanks that helped on my John deer. I tried a couple different things the paper trick worked for me I actually had to do 2 pieces of paper folded up because coil kept rubbing on the fly wheel but it runs so much better now
Thinking back the mower gas cap has hissed when it needed gas. Sat on the back patio rest of today and started her and running like brand new and put it away.
Sounds like your fuel tank vent is clogged. If it's in the cap, you can clear it in the small hole in the middle with a paper clip, or it could have another style of vent but that's what it sounds like. It shouldn't hiss when you open the fuel tank, I bet it's vapor locking the fuel in the tank not allowing proper fuel flow
@@Powertool1990 Nope sorry. I blew the car several times and the compressed air is blowing through the vent with no problem. I also drained the tank and the fuel flowed freely until empty with the cap on. I don't know what else to try.
I bought a coil for my Briggs & Stratton push mower, and the coil, which is not the correct one, does not sit flush against the fly wheel. Can I grind a part of it so that it is flush and produces the necessary power? And no, it is impossible to find the model and part number, and the machine does not have it, nor does Briggs & Stratton.
Good video. I did no know I should clean the magnet before I gap the coil. Thank you. My coil has just failed and waiting for the new one to be shipped.
Hi. My engine will not spin like the one in this video. It never spun freely (but worked when ignition engaged). Now it won't start. I opened up the red metal panel and saw that the ignition wire was chewed buy vermin. Thet lead me to this video. Any ideas on now to get the engine moving? Thanks.
For the old timers , this was the go to method, there is a reason..., bearing run out, if you run your coil into the flywheel then you will learn. 0.015 to 0.020" gives you some bearing slack back lash leaway. I set my last one to 0.012 but typically I always did 0.020" and feel more comfortable with a Business card. Which is closer to 20 th. Lean towards the thicker side..
Thanks for the info... Iv got a 16hp Briggs in my John Deere Gator. Every time I drive through water I lose spark? Do you think adjusting,mine would help?
@@Powertool1990 aweosme thank you. One other question, mine is a junk find, i didnt see a battery, do all snapper riding mowers require a battery? If so what size? This one has a 9hp briggs and stratton engine
I bought a walmart battery with 220 cold crank amps slow turnover wouldn't start.. But when I hook the battery up with jumper cables to my truck battery it fires up.. Could I need a 330 cold cranking battery for a cub cadet zero turn rtz
I always put a higher cca on mowers with bigger engines or 2 cylinder engines, I only put the Walmart 220 in single cylinder engines. Also if it's a briggs and stratton your valves could need to be adjusted. If they have to much lash it won't hit the compression release on the cam.
Hello everyone.Just a question....does this air gap affects the 4-stroke cycle of the engine? Here's the thing...my engine(Briggs&Station 4-stroke)starts normally but cant keep working and eventually stops. Carburetor has been cleaned,checked and working fine. Gasoline is replaced with fresh new. Spark plug checked...works fine. Any suggestions?
The gap should have nothing to do with your issue. However, the coil could get hot and stop working, it's rare but I've seen it happen. When it stops running, hook up a spark tester and check for spark. Also another thing to check and is a, common problem is the gas tank cap vent. If the vent in the cap is clogged it will vacuum lock the fuel from flowing. A good indicator of this is when it stops running, crack the fuel tank cap, if you hear air like opening a soda can, then it's vacuum locking the tank preventing fuel flow.
So I was having problems with the motor cutting out after 20 minutes or so. Figured it was either the coil or fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb so I bought chinese knockoffs of both. I changed the coil. Wouldn't even turn over. Found this video and went through all the steps. Still nothing. Figured maybe I got the wrong coil. Put my old one back on and still wouln't crank. Any ideas? Could I have done something to the battery? It's not that old and it's been starting fine all year. I had it disconnected while changing the coil.
When you say cutting out after 20 mins I'd check your fuel cap vent. The fuel tank can vapor lock causing no fuel flow. When it cuts off I'd crack open the fuel cap and listen for any sound like opening a soda can, relieving pressure in the tank. But now you say it doesn't turn over at all?
@@Powertool1990 Thanks much for the reply. Turns out the battery was dead, jumped it and it fired right up. I guess 2 years is all you get out of the cheaper batteries now. I'll get a new one tomorrow and put the new coil back and see what happens from there. Thanks again
check woodruff key insert on shaft and fly wheel ( small steel pin in slot on shaft some time shears off replace (woodruff key)take old one with you they come in many sizes. any hardware store will have one
It's not very common but it's not unheard of either. Have you confirmed with spark tester? Remove the small ground connector that grounds out the coil to confirm the coil is actually bad or if maybe it's just being grounded out by a safety switch or something.
@@Powertool1990 O boy. I just changed the spark plug and when the engine dies after running roughly more and more I put a new plug in ground the plug out and had no spark. She had started running progressively rough the last few lawn cuttings , but only after running for like 30 minutes like the coil was heating up. I'd wait 10minutes letting it cool and she ran fine for another 10 to 15 minutes then started to act like it was running out of gas. Gas cap is clean and clear, fuel line no blockage, gas filter replaced. The running rough got worse each mowing then just died. She starts but runs /missing right away now. If she was grounding out on s safety switch or something. Would she not start at all?
@@elcidlord if it's running and progressively getting worse when it gets hot, I suspect you're on the right track. If it was a safety switch it would die instantly.
@@Powertool1990 No I did not. The coil has been shipped and awaiting arrival. When the engine did die I replaced the spark plug and held it to the engine/frame to see if it sparked and had no spark when I turned the engine over.
@@Powertool1990 Yes, I can see now that you don't know what to tell us. It happens often with youtubers that claim to know something. FYI a piece of paper is .0025. The gap on my engine is called out as .010 to .012. Now you learned something.
