I love how everyone is talking about how “if you used a JIS #3 Instead of a phillips it would’ve come right out” How about the real reason you can’t get them off because they’re ALLWAYS rusted on there!
They are not always rusted on there. The screw are stainless steel. The rotors rust. exacerbatedThey rust when you don't pull your rotors to inspect them, when you don't do brake maintenance, when you don't apply anything on the screw faces to stop moisture getting under the heads during tire rotation. They rust because people ignioe brake service on new cars. By the time that pads are needed, it's too late. It might not be necessary in Japan, but in the coastal areas and northern half of the US and all of Canada where roads are salted, and there are wide temperature swings across freezing, brakes should be inspected/serviced annually. aluminum
Listen as a 23 year old woman, i know jack sh*t about cars but I WANT to learn so i can do these things on my own. Finally finding someone that doesn't make car work out to be rocket science nor do they dumb it down too much cause "car work is monkey work." (I've literally been told that by men before, but news flash IM NOT A MONKEY) Straight and to the point, thank you for the helpful video!
Thanks for your video, but I just got done doing brakes all around on an Accord. At that time, I thought the flat head screw was a #3 Phillips, so we used a technique I saw on You Tube that called for hitting the rotor adjacent to the screw to shock the rust loose, and then an Impact driver w/ the #3 bit in it. That technique actually worked on all 4 rotors... no stripped out screws or drilling. Since then, though, I've discovered that the screws are actually a European JIS B1012 Cross head screw that takes a special 'Vessel Impacta' screwdriver; it fits the head perfectly. As the screwdriver is hit w/ a hammer, it torques the screw slightly also, breaking it loose and not slipping. PB Blaster also helps to loosen the rust beforehand. If all that fails, however, drilling is a last ditch effort that does get the rotor off. You are correct that these are just assembly line issue.
This is the way. After struggling for an hour with a rotor on my 09 CRV I found this comment. The remaining rotor screws came right out using your advice. I just tapped the rotor with a hammer between all the studs and then my impact driver took them out with no issue whatsoever. Larry, I owe you a beer!
Chris, I am glad that worked out for you, but Larry in the Comments has the correct answer. Those are indeed JIS screws, not phillips. The Vessel Impacta impact screwdriver is made for this. Here is a tip though. Put the lug nuts back on with a few flat washers and tighten them moderately against the rotor to relieve the pressure off the retaining screws so they are easy to remove. One or two whacks on the Vessel Impacta screwdriver and they come out. Those screws are not necessary and are only there for assembly during manufacturing to hold the rotor on before the wheels are installed. The lug nuts hold the wheels on, not those tiny screws. Most of the Techs at our shop do not replace them. Personally I do but with Anti-Seize compound so the next Tech can easily remove them without using the lug nuts to relieve the pressure on the retaining screws. When I worked at a Honda dealership, the time and money allotted for replacing the rotors required it be done in that time. Invest in this JIS impact screwdriver if you replaced the retaining screws and use the above tip with the lug nuts for the next time. With us, time is money and eyes are on our tickets.
@@ronmcbride517 ron. If the head of the screw is stripped and a driver won't work now, here are two options. FIRST ONE: and the best one, if you have a Die Grinder, use a Carbide Burr to grind the head off the retaining screw. Remove the rotor and cut the remaining protruding threads. Use a Double Cut 1/4" shank, 516" diameter Cylindrical-Radius End carbide burr. A Standard Cut one will do in a pinch if you don't have a double cut one. Grind the head of the screw off only so you can remove the rotor. This process should take one or two minutes. SECOND ONE: and my least favorite. Use Cobalt drill bits to drill the head off of the retaining screw. Start small and work up in diameter until the head is removed. Remove the rotor and cut or grind the protruding threads left. Neither of these methods allows for reinstalling a new retaining screw, but they are not needed. Forget about drilling and using a screw extractor to remove the screw. The extractor is guaranteed to break. Did you ever try to drill into an extractor or tap? Use method one above if at all possible. I once saw a tech use a Dremel Tool for this and he broke every burr he had because they are only 3/16" dia. shanks. I think there is a 1/4" collet available for Dremel Tools but what's the use. Use a Die Grinder with a 1/4" collet. You will find many more uses for it. Never use a #3 Phillips screwdriver to remove rotor retaining screws, you stand an excellent chance of stripping the head. Those screws are JIS. Practice on a scrap piece of steel with the Die Grinder first. Get the hang of how those burrs cut before plunging it into the retaining screw. WEAR EYE PROTECTION. Nothing throws hot metal chips like a Die Grinder.
this saved me so much time and frustration! I had the impact screwdriver and everything. snapped two bits off inside the screw, went out to buy replacements, came back only to completely strip the screw. I was too frustrated to go back out, so I just took a 1/4" drill bit to it (no WD btw) and the collar popped out in two minutes or so. not gonna bother getting the rest out cuz these bastards are such a pain!!!!
Thanks for the video Chris. I especially appreciate the story you related about the assembly line. That makes sense. I was wondering: if I drill mine out and don't replace them, will the rotor be unstable, or will the lug nuts lock it into place? It sounds like these screws truly aren't needed for proper brake operation.
😒 agreed, rotors dont need these retaining screws, its a repair scam to force noobs back to the dealer for a gravy brake job, how many cars in the last 100 yrs with rotors, they dont use these stupid screws! 😡
Agreed. They're just to align the bolt holes and make it easier to put the caliper on etc. I grease them and put them in with ny finger and do them up. Never tighten
If this method doesn't work for you try my technique. It works for Allen screws (as shown) or Phillips screws. For Phillips screws just use a very tiny T6 or T7 or T8 bit. @
If you have the right tool, they will come out. Most likely a JIS #3 Vessel #930, 980 or 240001 The 930 should be part of anybody's tool box. Good luck
This is what I was going to comment. This should be done with a JIS #3 or equiv standard, not a US Phillips head. Using the right end will prevent (or greatly reduce the chance of) the cam out. +1 on Vessel suggestion, the 900 series is an excellent choice.
You should have used "counter clock" (reverse) setting with the extractor, it's on the instructions! Clearly you were using forward setting, and the screw head was not drilled at all.
Right, wouldn't that have turned it lefty(loosey) to loosen eventually? Or is the point to drill a pattern with the first special bit, then turn it around and go opposite so it will back out with the opposite pattern?
Wow! With a good drill bit that screw head would have been spinning on the bit in less than 30 seconds. 3/16" bit would have been better anyway. 1/4" is a little bigger than you need.
You’re using the wrong screw driver. It’s a Japan screw driver. It’s not a Phillips head. The Japan style screw drivers are slightly different. The tip is shorter and fits perfectly with the screw. The Asians use it because it speeds up production and doesn’t require torque
I used your method. The tool i is use is a Dewalt half inch impact electric tool with a removable drill bit adapter.. Shit took like 30 secs to drill out. Thank you for this information
I have driven Honda's and Acura for ever, making it way to hard. If this is a Saturday project when you get home Friday get the car jacked up and on stands, spray the screws with some pb blaster or something like it (wd 40 is NOT like it) when you get up Saturday spray it again, let it soak for about an hour, basically drink a couple cups of coffee, get a hand impact, I have a Capri and think you would be hard pressed to find a better one for the money, lisle would be another quality one that is reasonable, stay away from harbor freight for the hand impact, and they will come out no problem, and a 1/4 of the job is done Friday just by getting it up and tires off
They are necessary when you have a BMW and they keep the rotor from spinning when you put the tire on, because we dont have studs… we have shitty bolts 😩
This is probably a silly question, but with the drill bit are you just drilling into it spinning to the right or to the left? I'm about to run out and get the screw extractor set and a drill bit and just want to make sure I know what I'm doing. This is my first go changing brakes and I got my front's done easy, but ran into this problem on the rear.
marvin parker if the retaining screws are off, there is nothing impeding them from coming off. There may be some rust keeping them in place, just knock them around to loosen the connection. A hammer should do it.
You see those empty holes next to the studs? Get two 8mm x 1.25 bolts (about 25 -30 mm long) and a ratchet. Screw the bolts into those holes then use the ratchet to turn them. The force from the screws will pop off the rotor. However if you’re not going to use the rotor again just get a hammer to pond the rotor off.
I have a noise on 2013 rear brakes Honda civic. The funny thing is it makes a scraping sound every time the tire rotates one time around. But if I loosen the wheel nuts it goes away. If I tighten the wheel nuts, again, I hear a scraping noise every time the tire rotates one time. It is also makes the sound on both sides in the rear. What the hell can it be? I don't think its the brake pads because they would squeak as I turn the tire all the time, not just one time around. Weird stuff.
YOU GOT MAIL! More than likely you have a warped rotor. This is a common diagnosis for what you are describing. Even brand new rotors that you just put on can be warped. I would rule out a caliper issue because it would be constant and so would your brake pad. Otherwise, it could be your wheel bearing. This would required some “mechanic tools” that typically will cost you the same as paying someone. With the sound going away when the lug nuts are loosened, it still leans me toward your rotors.
The reason your phillips head didn't work is because those screws aren't phillips head screws. They are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws as are all the screws on your Acura. Google wants to be your friend sir. Otherwise good video.
These bolts are not needed people I been a mechanic for over 25yrs and they are only there so they don't fall off during the building process at the factory I have checked in and found out for a fact
If your wheel is torqued appropriately than there really is absolutely no need for these retaining screws if you do a Google search and might tell you that not having them could result in vibration but that's absolute nonsense
Those are not Philips head but Japanese Industrial Standard #3 screws. If you used the right tip on a n impacta screw driver they loosen up in less than a minute. No drilling required.a Philips head will strip them every time. Even a standard impact driver is a better idea. And those screws center the rotor in exact center. Not just used for assembly. Porsches are another story. And you used extractor wrong. Also your video out of focus. C minus for doing research and getting it all very wrong
The lugs keep the rotor on and centered. They are stationary. They don't move around. The screws are therefore useless. You are just making random shit up about needing the screws. Nobody listen to this guy.
@@jondoe6926 they exactly center the rotor on the hub during mounting. The Honda engineers didn't put them on there for no reason. And you can buy the tool Honda tuners use for the screws online. There are a number of videos explaining why so many American Mechanics get it wrong and strip the heads. Try watching...."the right way to remove Honda rotors. "
