How to get that GLOSSY and Glassy cabinet finish | Kitchen cabinet painting 

You saw that too !!

I'm from New Mexico, thought it was a road runner when I first saw it. Wild turkey. Wild.

Its a peacock female. Called a peahen

@@abdulkackmack Turkey, Peacock or Labrador Retriever, They all cook up about the same.. Just don't forget the "Ketchup".

@@abdulkackmack No, filmed in North America. Female Turkey, wild. I have seen several up close, near my home.

It’s wet………..

I'm glad you like it!!

Beautiful job

Copy paste comment from another RU-vidrs video?

@@watchchannel8201yes it is! …..gallery vs emerald

thank you Mathew for the comment 🙏 I do love me some tack cloths for dusting. thank you

Thank you! 😊

Yessss! That sounds amazing! YOu are speaking my language. I would always use penatrol with oil gloss, and man o man i think there is no better finish and look! Great job, and do me a favor and send me a pic or info about the regulator for air...that is a great idea

did.

I want to try this . Did you mix the Penatrol with the Gemini paint?

Thank you so much 🙏 Yes this house was amazing and it took almost 3 years to complete! I want to put up some video of the inside, but apparently it is going to be in some magazines and trade publications so I have to wait until those are published first. thanks for the comment

Thank you so much brother 🙏 I really appreciate it 💪🤝🙏

that is a great idea 💡 Good looking out! I appreciate it 🙏 🤝

I’ve done that in my shop. It really keeps the dust down. The water sorta attracts the overspray as well, keeping the room a little more dust free.

It reduces static

Xbrizz...i Have a question for you. If I'm repainting a home with precat on the doors and base already, can I just recoat over the top with precat again or do i have to sand them down first? I was thinking of doing a solvent wipe down then spraying over the top. Thanks in advance for you expertise man. Been a painter for 25 years but never really worked with this stuff.

@@pokermon303 That would be a step in the right direction, of course without being able to read any spec/data sheet on the previous product I wouldn't be able to give you a slam dunk answer. Some pre- catalyzed materials have a recoat window. Can you get any information on the product, or if its unknown to you my only suggestion would be to try a test on a section of door and see if there is any rejection of the finish.

Thank you so much gastro, we appreciate it, thank you🤝🙏

Muchas gracias 🙏💪🤝

Yeahhhhh!!! so good to hear brother 🙌 I really appreciate it 🙏 Hope you guys are doing well over there, and I really appreciate you reaching out on the RU-vid channel! Still trying to get the hang of RU-vid and talking to my phone, but I hope it's not looking too cheezy!

"Refinish cabinets" with cheap white "spray paint" not remotely intended for "natural fibers"? That's funny shit. About as funny as pretending he's "refinishing" and not doing "new construction" and such a shitty job of it he needs "car paint" on plywood "custom cabinets" applied to VERTICAL surfaces "laid out" horizontally to fill all in a "flood coat" in order to cover or rather fill all the "imperfections" in the base material. Any "custom cabinets" that need to be spray-painted to a "glassy" laquer finish "on site" must be real cheap pieces of shit made by a "general contractor" from bottom drawer material no real "refinisher" would waste time, effort, talent, skill money and paint "refinishing" and no real cabinetmaker would do the same making in the first place. When a "how-to" video doesn't show the finished product period much less in use you can rest assured the end did not justify the means even when the means are as cheap as they could possibly be. No wood surface is "uniform" in hardness, density and color especially unprimed and unsealed and no matter how you "lay out" wooden objects "one coat coverage" ending in a "glassy finish" is a practical impossibility IF by "glassy" you mean "smooth as glass" and modern float glass is your example. The unprimed and unsealed wood surface - which is ALWAYS "laminated" in some way, shape or form regardless of material including PLYWOOD - when you get into cabinetmaking - will never evenly absorb a "flood coat" and it will never "dry" (laquers "cure" like concrete and do not simply "dry") evenly and to a uniform and "glassy" surface and finish ESPECIALLY "laid out" where it will STILL "run" toward any "low spots" leaving high spots "thin" and low spots "thick" and both reflecting light and objects differently leaving a "wavy" reflection and shine that will stand out even more with the cabinets and doors actually hung and mainly at "eye level" with the rest "angled" relative to eye level where it can easily be looked down upon or up at in a well-lit and high-use and high-traffic "workspace" where there are plenty of other "glassy" objects and surfaces that are also "laid out" and have no high spots or low spots so that the "wavy" cabinet doors can't be missed. VARNISH exists as a "clear coat" and "filler" for wood specifically because "perfect" wood surfaces are impossible to "craft" AND if and when you want a "glassy" monochromatic finish over imperfect wood you put paint OVER varnish just like when "car painting" if you are not skilled, talented, dedicated and experienced to do "perfect" METALWORK that is "glassy smooth" while still "bare metal" and after priming-sealing you do "bodywork" with "bondo" up to and including a vehicle-covering "glide coat" dragging that crap over every square inch and getting "full coverage" before "finish sanding" the body FILLER back down to "bare primer" for a "glassy smooth" so-called "paint job" with a "flood coat" of two-stage base-clear paint you'll end up with 10 coats of clear on just to have enough "depth" to "cut and buff" it back down to "smooth as glass" appearance even though the actual "paint job" is as "wavy" as those "refinished" cabinet doors ended up being.

So who are you "redoing cabinets" for? Are you a DIY "house flipper" that can't "redo" that are of sufficient quality to justify "redoing" properly and still "make money", not DIY "redo" them at any level of profit or loss because you suck at "working with your hands" in general and damage them to the point only "refinishing" them with a "flood coat" of "laquer" on the "laid out" doors will hide your "imperfections" or are you just too lazy to do them right on your own dime? You sure as hell aren't a professional remodeler/refinisher for any private customer if you get to choose "laquer" and if you think "redoing" with "laquer" instead of "oil" OR "varnish" is an "alternative" rather than a substitute you obviously have no business in the "redoing" business on a private customer's dime. So...that leaves what if the answer is none of the above? Government work? Are you a "redoer" of "affordable housing"? Or maybe "public spaces"? You idiots going "laquer" for cabinets in "spaces" that happen to be where most residential FIRES begin that have no fucking clue that there is more to the SAFETY of "paint" than how toxic or poisonous or flammable or explosive the "fumes" are while "wet" REALLY have no business substituting what's "cheapest" and/or "easiest" for what is "safest" period much less in "jurisdictions" where you idiotically operate entirely without adult supervision even if only temporarily. Which is the case because no "corner cutter" ever makes it to "retirement age" in an "industry" where he or she is barely the smartest person in the room when alone much less when any "casual observer" is around that's curious or even just bored enough to pick up the container of whatever "corner cutting" is being used and read the label for himself or herself when the corner cutter himself/herself can't answer simple questions about the what/when/where/how the product is properly and safely used as an "alternative" to a much more commonly used and seen and observed "industry standard" satisfactorily. "Laquer" is "banned" in many jurisdictions because not it's a "fire hazard" for real trained professionals that read and follow directions but because of "self-taught" wannabes that failed shop class and/or science class or cut class the day(s) "fire safety" in the shop/lab was taught and never got/get that LIQUIDS and SOLIDS never "catch fire" but the FLUIDS - INCLUDING "VAPORS" AKA GASES - THEY "GIVE OFF" WHEN HEATED DO. The reason damn near all "petroleum-based" solvents, paints and other "shop supplies" are now "banned" in jurisdictions without "free healthcare" is the rate at which illiterate and/or lazy "workers" in more "liberal" jurisdictions that still have not "banned" them kill and maim innocent bystanders when they "emigrate" to America and bring their "self taught" and/or "apprentice education" idiocy, reckless, clueless and fatal "know-how" with them and "start a business" in an "industry" they really have no clue whatsoever about when it comes to "workplace safety". And 99% of them are "functionally illiterate" when it comes to the "science" on an instruction label or brochure much less an MSDS.

Thank you so much brother 🙏 I really appreciate it.

@@PaintBoss your welcome brother

Thank you so much 🥰

Thank you so much for the comment 👍🙏

thank you so much, we really appreciate the comment 😊 🤝🙏🙏

Thank you so , I really appreciate the comment 🙏👍

thank you Kevin, I appreciate it. I will definitely try it. thanks for the heads up

Satin Impervo white always , I mean always will yellow within a short amount of time , I don’t use it anymore

Hahahahhah, soo funny you caught that😂🤣 i didn't catch it until my wife put up the video 🤣😂 good catch..i think it was a huge mama goose...haha

I thought it was a turkey 🦃😄

probably is martha's stewart missing peacock =)

Turkey

Happens often in some neighborhoods in Florida

Thank you so much Eric, I really appreciate that. Sorry for the delay, i have been fighting the corona...happy to go back to work soon. Yes these were made out here, i can find out for your the profile and let me know if you need a recommend , we work with some amazing woodworkers out here.

@@PaintBoss If you could reply with the name of the cabinet company used that would be most helpful! Thanks and Merry Christmas.

yes I would think that should work. Especially if you use a Pigmented Laquer like I used in the video, if you switch to an alchyd or oil maybe just a tiny thin rate, like you mentioned, 10 percent or so, so it flows nicely with it. but the tinted Laquer would flow perfectly through your gun

I really do like both!! I have to say, ever since we switched to Pigmented Laquer we have loved it. there really isn't many finishes out there that look better than a satin or eggshell sheen of Laquer, dries quick, sands nice and lots great. thanks so much for the comment🤝🙏

Do you use an HVLP sprayer?

@@AJF4Me Yes. We have a Graco 9.0 we use with a #2 fluid set. To get a nice, smooth finish, you need to put about 10% water in it. Otherwise the Breakthrough will dry too fast leaving an orange peel texture.

@@AJF4Me Also, make sure you're using Breakthrough V50 and not V250. The V250 isn't rated for cabinets.

@@dgoddard ah thanks! I've been using BM Advance with a Fuji sprayer but I have to thin it out so much. I'll try that PPG paint

@@dgoddard Got it!

Hello Tommy 👋 and thanks for the comment. So you are right, on this job we had so many different sizes of cabinets i used 2 different set ups. I used a graco 395 with a fine finish tip for the big doors, and for the smaller doors and frames I used a cup gun hvlp off of a 13 gallon air compressor. This uses less material and can get some of the small detail edges, while not over flowing them with to much product. I used a Gemini Pigmented Laquer for these doors, and you can buy at any dunn Edwards, Gemini dealer, and or cabinet shop/hardware shop that sells stain and Laquer to cabinet makers.

Swedish Putty would do the job

I did watch the video again and seen the titan in the background and you did explain different guns for different applications, i was just curious if a larger (5 series) graco setup could handle all that? I do know i would run laquor and paint on 2 eperate systems. Im limited on space so was curious?

Thanks so much for the comment Jason 👊 and yes, you are right. We use different types for different jobs, but the use of the titan was for speed and volume of what we were trying to achieve. I knew this product would lay down really nicely when it dried, so we tried to save some time on the bigger ones cause there was just so many..in the end it worked out great. thanks again for the comment and I'm sorry for the delay in replying 🤝🙏🙏

Hola Karin, lo ciento mi Español es Mas o menos malo...😆 pero you nesecito practical! Yo creo su pregunta es que tipo si. Yo me gusto una 310 fine finish, o una 308 fine finish low pressure. No sabe en Español, pero muchas gracias por su respuesta 👍👊🤝🙏 lo ciento por mi espanol 🙏

Hello there, well it depends...did you paint the oil base on the vanity? You can scuff sand gently and brush some brushing Laquer. you would need to buy a specific Laquer called brushing Laquer, or you can buy some spray cans and get that nice spray finish. My favorite can of Laquer is the deft spray can. you would probably only need a can or 2 and it should be beautiful result 💪👊 Let me know how it goes!

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, it's been crazy around here. No. With this material I like to go straight out of the can👍🙏 thanks for the comment

Yes, there is always a way, it depends on what is on your cabinets now, is it latex alkyd or laquer? Let me know and I can try to help recommend some products 💪👍

Yes, we have had really good results with the pigmented laquer. Out here all the cabinet companies use either pigmented laquer or conversion varnish and we have had really good results with both. Thanks so much for the comment,👍🙏

@@PaintBoss Thank you for responding. I’m actually remodeling a kitchen in a house built in 1922. I want to respect the house and avoid anything that even hints of plastic. Understanding lacquer better is really helpful.

Hello there, and thanks for the question! If you are going to paint a car, I would highly recommend getting automotive paint for that. It is a totally different component chemical that is in automotive paint, that is why it is so expensive...That being said if it is something for your house, then absolutely you can order a high gloss sheen and it will turn out beautifully! Let me know if you are talking about doing a car...we have shot a certain type of paint on our work vans and it has worked out pretty well! But yes, always use a compatible primer before using any specialty paint. Thanks for the comment! Let me know if u have any other questions

@@PaintBoss painting a cabinet, but has normal housrhold gloss paint painted before. I want to paint it with a high.gloss 2K paint. Thanks for your response.

@@buyisilengubane4559 My friend own Car paint shop and he always uses PPG Selemix paint when he paints wood and if i'm not wrong it doesn't need any primer.

I believe this was 220, not a ton of pressure on it, but 180 to 220 is our go to👍👊 thanks so much for the comment 👍

You mean his respirator?

@@timothypadilla1277 yes his "respirator" , it looked like goggles but it was just part of his respirator

No doubt!!! This one was definitely a big boy!! was a huge project!! We all got a lot of satisfaction out of completing this one! Thanks for the comment 👍🙏

Hey Daniel, thanks for the comment. So we were running both, this was such a big job..223 cabinet doors in total, so we actually ran both. The compressor is 13 gallons and we had a cup gun and blow off tip from the compressor for the smaller doors and frames, but what you see me shooting is from our airless sprayer with the pressure way down and a fine finish tip. thanks for the comment

@@PaintBoss right I thought the pressure seemed quite imoressive for that small compressor, can I ask what airless system your using? Thanks

At the very end of the video, he does say that he used a 208 fine finish tip. It might be a Graco FFLP208

Hello JP so this was a color change on lacquered cabinets, so we sanded all of them down, cleaned them and then shot 2 coats of Pigmented Laquer in a 7 degree sheen. They turned out beautiful! thanks for the comment 👍

Right! This one was a really special home. Beautiful project! Thanks for the comment 👍🙏

Thank you Allie, I appreciate it very much 😊 So great question, and it depends on the profile of the cabinet! I am a firm believer in trying to spray the edges at least 2x while shooting the back and once with the fronts...reason being, is I want to build the millage on the edges cause that is where all the fingers, scuffs and pulls happen for the client over time...however you are right! Athos was the final coat of the cabinet faces, and I didn't want to risk overspraying the backs with overspray dust, so on the final coat with this profile I like to just focus on the face, since it has such an intricate profile! Great question and thanks for the comment🤝🙏

@@PaintBoss thanks. I'll do that then.

Hey, thank you so much 🙏 I really appreciate it! I'm not sure out there, that is actually where I'm from, but I know the epa rules and regs are so much tighter there! if your in Cali you could try an alkyd based dunn Edwards Aristoshield, it sprays beautifully 👌 but u might check chemical coatings part of sherwin or Gemini to find some Pigmented Laquer. thanks again for the comment

Yes you can . I’m from Los Angeles and use this product every day. Dunn Edwards Paint stores.

@@giovannigodoy1031 which one do you get or exact name

Chris_AllUpInYa5 Gemini floss and just let them know what color you want. If not wanted to glossy I recommend luster lac .

@@giovannigodoy1031 appreciate the information bro thank you

Get a big compressor and put a line regulator at the gun, you'll be fine

Rolair or makita 6 gallon puts out 6.5 cfm at 90. And add a auxiliary air tank

Hello there Michael, you know, I wouldn't doubt that, it could be a regulation thing in Cali, we had them when I was there but I left socal about 14 years ago, so I don't know anymore. I would figure that cabinet shops would still have to have access to some, but not sure...maybe look for or Google a Gemini dealer and see if they do, if not dunn Edwards has a really great alkyd water borne product that sprayes and holds up pretty similar, its called Aristoshield and you can buy that in cali for sure. 2, when I shoot Laquer I don't ever add anything to it, just use fine finish or hvlp and it lays down. With latex I do love me some floatrol though! good call! thanks for tbe comment 🤝💪

@@PaintBoss Not sure if you mentioned it or not but what sealer or primer are you using?

Hello Evan, well it depends on what material you ended up using. If it is latex, I always like to use really hot water and a rag and try to wipe off as soon as possible...usually works, but rag has to be really hot. if it is a Solvent base over spray, try crinckling masking paper...really s scrunch it up, and then use the masking paper at sand paper...this will lightly buff the overspray and make it smoother. Let me know if u have any questions and good luck!

What about using a 3000 grit sand paper?? Wet sand?

I know right😂🤣😂 we never know whats going to walk by in the background on some of these big estate houses..lol classic!!

Body shape and coloration indicate a hen turkey, not a peacock.

Hello Kered, good call, I have actually never tried the kemvar product, but I have heard it mentioned before so I'm definitely looking forward to trying it out! I do really like the finish we have been getting out of the Gemini though for cabinets. I find it really easy to work with and sand. Thanks for the recommendation, I will try it👊🙏

@@PaintBoss i actually want to try gemini's pigmented conversion varnish to see how it compares. sherwin williams's clear conversion varnish isn't very good (not durable) but their pigmented is fantastic.

Thank you so much brother 👍🙏 We got this from a Benjamin Moore supplier who has a cabinet division for special tinted Laquers. thanks for the comment 🙏

@@PaintBoss 😀👍thanks I'm from San Diego California God bless you

It was just wet. I paint cabinets for a living. The title of this video is misleading.

Hello Marshall, thanks for the comment. So on the bigger panels we are using a graco 395 at about 50 percent pressure on a fine finish low pressure 308 and 310 fine finish tip. Thanks for the question 🤝💪🙏

No you are correct 👍this is closest to a satin finish. Lacquer is a little different than latex, but this product is right there around a satin, not quite a semigloss

@Last Comment2 Thank you

Hello Joseph, sorry for the delay. No we don't have to topcoat this product, it is a pigmented laquer, and usually i like doing 2 to 3 coats and they will hold up really well. thanks again for the comment.

@@PaintBoss Thanks for the info, and more power to your channel.