Cabinet Painting from Start to finish! Paint Boss is goind over step by step, how to effectively restore 20 year old cabinetry. Video by: Paint Boss, aka, Platinum Futures Painting Inc Location: Ada county, Idaho
Thank you so much Nikki 🙏 I really appreciate you saying that. Yes we are trying to just make some videos to help people see how we take down certain projects so hopefully we can share some helpful information to the people watching. thanks again for the comment
Hey, thank you so much Logan 👍 I appreciate the feedback! Yes, for the most part we really liked it, although it was doing some weird stuff on the second coat from where we bondo over our first coat and did a prepcheck, so on the next one I will look into it more and let you know, but coverage wise, it was pretty good to work with
@@PaintBoss Hi great vids! Im using benj Moore waterborne alkyd, top coat , after priming. Im spraying cabinet doors. recoat on TDS says 16hrs, cure is 7days. What is your recommendation, assuming indoors 74F, 50% humidity for how long I should wait to flip and the surface will not get ruined sitting on 2x4 blocks for support? Thank you
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Thank you so much 👍 So in this video we are using a white Laquer undercoater mill work primer from sherwin Williams. I will try to put up a picture of the product next time I do one of these videos. It is really potent stuff to spray cause of the fumes, but man it really sands beautifully and heats up to help melt into existing Laquer. It really creates a strong adhesion. Thanks for the comment, let me know if you have any more questions
Good stuff Boss, I like your presentations. On this video the first thing I notice is you didn't caulk the seams around the cabinet door panels ?? Why not and what are your thoughts on this. Thanks.
Hello Tom, thanks so much for the comment, I've been out of town for the last 2 weeks so apologize for the delay. So sometimes we caulk the styles and some jobs we dont...so originally most cabinet makers don't because the style .."the inset" could move...Now that being said...we charge extra to caulk but I do prefer how it looks...always looks better to me...Remember though, when using a Pigmented Laquer or tinted Laquer it dries really hot, so the caulking truly needs to cure. We usually wait 24 hours or else your Laquer could wrinkle and spider on the caulking. With enamel or latex you don't have to worry about it....But great question! I do prefer to caulk the styles as long as it's in the budget.
Newbie here, I saw in another of your videos a fan blowing away from pieces, but I know dust will go where it wants unless there is some type of extraction or containment method used. Do you find it not necessary on a job like this? I have my first cabinets refinishing job on the horizon and really want to do a great job. Loved the bonds application. You pros make it all look so easy, but I know it comes from good training and a lot experience on the job. Phenomenal work, thank you for sharing your expertise.
Yes, no doubt...It gets everywhere. We try to shoot in one location now and dry them on a rack a little further out of the way and covered by 3 walls, we use the fans to help move the air and dust in the opposite direction we are drying them. Thanks so much for the comment 👊 🤝 🙏
if water based latex were a great option for kitchen then at least one manufacturer would use it, when you said lacquer undercoater do you mean nitrocellulose or vinyl or post cat?
Like the work I'm seeing. Really like to know what the lacquer undercoat is and if it serves the purpose rather than using an oil to bond to old lacquer before applying a topcoat. I've also found that on any of ny cabinet jobs I like using kem aqua or more recently seralack both from Sherwin. Dries much faster than latex and a harder finish. Thanks
@@elliottharris1741 Doing the proper prep work is important. I'm finding allt of new products that are a good base before applying your topcoat but once you do that your topcoat options are pretty good.
First of all thank you for the great information. Helped me a lot on spraying! Secondly, would you recommend a top coat/ clear coat by general finishes to help protect the paint and cabinets even better?
No need for a top coat if you use a durable finish. Try to stick to enamel or urethane. Or the American market you can use things like Benjamin Moore advanced or Benjamin Moore coretec urethane. Sherwin-Williams has the emerald urethane and the pro urethane. Deluxe paint has the "breakthrough" product with the revised formula. And if you're in Canada we also have the Cloverdale "multimaster" urethane. These are all on in water-based. And because we're speaking to finish coat I will give you the best primer. A alkyd based shellac primer will always be the best because the cleanup is easy on residential property without damaging the floors at the same time it's considered a oil base and the great stain blocker. Good luck!
Great Video! Did you put any Lacquer / pre-cat top coat over the Tri-Corn Black or was that black the final coat and that's hard enough for kitchen abuse. Thanks!!
Thanks for the comment Aaron, we appreciate it. So we used a oil base millwork primer and then usually shoot 2 -3 coats of finish to get good millage, from what I have seen this stuff hold up really well to the abuse of the island. Thanks so much🤝👊🙏
Hello Gavin, thanks for reaching out. If gracos are not available out there see if you can get titan, they are also great sprayers. If that is not available either, anytime of airless or air assisted sprayer would be great! if still no luck u could always run a gravity fed cup gun or hvlp from a air compressor. Thanks for reaching out from Scotland, I appreciate it 🙏
I know, I know trust me....it was only for the primer, because it was a solvent base so just for primer I think it was ok..I do know what your talking about though😬
you should think about using a proline drying rack for the doors they are only like $480 but it saves you time and space at any job site plus it looks professional.
That is great you said that! I actually just sent an email to them 10min ago letting them know I would like to buy one! good call, and great timing, thank you for the heads up and I'm looking forward to hearing from them and trying out the proline system. thank you for the info 🙏 much appreciated
Hey brother, so far so good 👍 it did dry really hard and seems really durable. I haven't tried touch ups just yet, but so far they are holding up really well, really scratch resistant and strong! and yes, all 3 colors were able to be made in the pro industrial. pretty good stuff 👍
So if the backs get damaged from when you flip them do you just leave the damage? I'm a journeyman painter and I owe you spray the doors up with couple books it allows me to spray primer and finish in one day because I can spray both sides and also when you have the door super close together like the guy did in the video and the beginning you're not casting overspray on the doors you just shot like he did. I've sprayed the doors down flat in the past and it's nice cuz you can lay it on thick and you don't have to worry about runs and sags but you definitely are going to have damage when you flip them because even tho the paint is dry to touch/sand, it hasn't cured... BTW the Idaho painter is a complete hack
Hello there Todd, so this is not the same as the bondo out of the can, which is usually referred to as automotive bondo. The stuff we use is a lot easier to use and it does come pre mixed and right out of the tube💪 I love using it as it is really easy to use, sands really easy, and you can build multiple coats in a short amount of time. Most places its called spot putty, red bondo, or bondo glazing! Hope that helps, and thanks so much for the comment 👍🙏
I saw Milesi buckets around, why are you using that Sherwin garbage when you've already used some of the best cabinet coatings around. Milesi is the bomb
So usually we decide based on each job, depends on what kind of product we are using and how big the cabinet doors are for that job. I usually like using an hvlp or cup gun for the frames and smaller glass panel doors, because the frames are so thin, but the airless lets us spray a lot faster, and i like the finish with the bigger doors. So really if we are shooting latex, or waterborne alkyd I like the airless...if we are shooting pigmented laquer which is a lot thinner, then we switch it to an hvlp or cup gun. Sorry for rambling answer, but it changes job to job. Thanks so much for the comment.
@@PaintBoss Thats cool and makes sense. I started with airless but got into hvlp over the last year but just ordered a tri tech t5 with a hopper and can't wait to use it. Keep the content coming !!
thank you so much Conrad 🙏 I appreciate the feedback! That new set up you have coming sounds awesome! I think before the year is out I might add a air assisted to the line up. I have been hearing a lot of good things about them as well. Have u ever used one?
@@PaintBoss I've personally never used one, but a fine finish shutter maker here in town delivered a batch of very large plantation shutters that were drop-dead gorgeous; I asked him what he used: ProClassic oil with an air-assisted airless. I wish I has $4500 laying around haha.
I like that primer you’re using but I’m sorry the water based urethane alkyd is much too soft for cabinets. You are better off with a lacquer or cv or a 1k/2k poly. Sherwin Williams just released a new product called Gallery Series it’s a 1k. You guys should test it out. It gets much harder than the WB urethane alkyd. It doesn’t even compare.
I've been doing this for over 200 years and everything he was doing was wrong lol. A lot youtuber commenters are like this on all these channels unfortunately.
No way!!! you will never get a quality finish on cabinets unless you have a spray booth! Most customers don't know the difference. Good prep. work! I'm glad it is working for you! Hit all the edges better!
this client asked that we still make the backs look good so we still did some good prep on the backside because client requested it during the bid. Usually we will just do color change on backs, but this one they wanted nice inside too. Thanks for the comment 🤝 🙏
Hey I know it looks crazy, but it was only for the primer coat, since we sand everything top to bottom and there was a tiny garage, we opted to shoot just the prime coat outside! 😬 Don't worry the rest of the painting was inside, but this was a jammed packed jobsite and we couldn't afford to chase off all the other trades from our Laquer primer💪
Sometimes when we shoot bin primer, it is very stinky but it's okay because you sand and fill in between coats, finish coats are usually done in side, sometimes other work is happening inside and there's even more dust but when you're sanding between coats it doesn't really matter as long as you get a good Bond
