Lots of good info in this video! I recently acquired an old 1032 like this one, and watched your video to get more familiar with the machine. However, the screw you unscrewed at 6:15 is not the "drain screw", it is the adjuster screw for the main jet in the carb and would beed to be readjusted when put back in. The carb bowl drain is the little spring button off to one side. On the other hand, what you said about keeping the carb bowl clean and ethanol free gas being better is dead on. Overall, thanks for the video.
Good video. I just acquired the same 1032 machine. A couple of things you left out that might be helpful: you spoke about the front augers, the shear pins and the gear oil. My augers are frozen (probably rusted) to the auger shafts. No grease zerks, so never greased (anti-seize would have worked as well) from what I've read, it takes heat, like from an acetylene torch, to break things free to be able to dissasemble and add lube between the augers and shafts. I don't want to burn off the nice yellow paint just yet, so trying some Kroil penetrating oil to see if I can free up the augers. My point is this - sure, I have shear bolts installed (now removed temporarily) BUT if the augers are frozen to the shafts, the gearbox WILL be damaged by any obstruction that would otherwise shear one or both of the shear bolts. So I would add to an updated video - remove both shear bolts and verify that the augers turn freely on the auger shafts. AND verify there are indeed shear bolts installed. Once I get my augers to turn (hoping leaving the shear bolts out with continued adding of the Kroil from the ends of the augers with the blower leaned to one side and then the other) I'll definitely pull the front assembly out and antiseze the entire front pair of shafts and augers. The other preventative item would be to inspect the gear and chain area. The drive chains should be oiled, plus there's a single grease zerk behind the drive disc. Also, while you're in there, clean off any oil, dirt, or stuck on rubber from the drive disk. I use brake parts cleaner. It should be shiny and NO oil on it when finished. To clean the rubber on the friction wheel, I use a rubber cleaner, the rubber should be clean and not shiny looking. A dull surface is what it should look like. Note: if the friction wheel with the rubber is worn down, a new one should be installed. John Deere part number M114484. Costs about $85 as of this post date. Takes 10 minutes to change. Double check that the drive disc is clean. Another item: the manual says to use motor oil not gear oil in the front differential. Gear oil might be too thick when it's freezing cold outside. Hope this helps. Oh, and by the way, I was born and raised in Minnesota. Currently in Colorado where we've had our share of cold and snow this year. Need to get my 1032 reliably working today. Thanks again for your video.
I have a couple of 2 stage snowblowers that both need work this fall. One has a leaky exhaust valve and the other was a freebie that I got from a guy I used to work with (same situation as yours it sounds like). Thanks for posting the video. Always helpful to see someone do it before you try it yourself. The close up shots of the carb were especially helpful.
@@MidwestGarage for sure. I'm not sure if youtube gives a link to my channel or not. I will make videos for both projects. The exhaust valve will be the thing I definitely do this year. The other machine might just sit because I'd like to get my snowmobile going first.
I store dry and I use fresh nonethanol with a good dose of Seafoam just before the first snow. Four years later, the inside of the bowl still looks brand new.
I usually have Carburetor problems with these walk behind snowblowers, what I found is it's easier just to buy a new carburetor and replace the old one. The snowblower runs like a champ then. I do have to add gear oil, I never even checked it.
Carburetor issues is a fuel issue, usually leaving the gas in there and not using it. The cheapest solution is to install a fuel shutoff on the tank, and turn it off after you use it and run the engine until the carb is out of fuel and dies. Also on older equipment, like the one in the video, he might not be able to find a carb because that is probably a tecumseh engine, which are getting harder and harder to find parts for.
Great job with this video. Thanks for sharing. I have this exact same machine and bought it new 30 years ago. I follow these same steps each year. This summer I plan to replace the friction drive pulley, and all auger & impeller bearings as they are all original. I love this machine. It handles our New England snow with ease. Thanks for sharing.
