a little added note with the spot putty. You can thin it with acetone and then you can lightly brush it on. Doing this will make the putty dry faster (within 5 - 10 min.) and allows you to work it faster as well as building it up faster. (very similar to working with UV resin and baby powerder)
honestly looking at the process you are going through - just print it at 0.1 layer height and give it light sanding for rougher areas and you are done - yes the print could take 24h to complete - but it will have more detail with far less post print effort. I print large scale miniatures that I mostly don't need sanding just because I keep the layer heights at 0.1 or below.
Fair enough, if you want to wait that long for the print that is a option that would work for the building in the video if you painted with a thick paint. I think you would still see the layers if you sprayed as I did though. For the done example you still could not achieve this level of finish like that. Also the lower the complexity of the model to faster the process. The dome took maybe 5 min to apply the putty and 5 min to sand off.
That’s the lazy way to do things, i mean i understand the reasoning for it. For something that doesn’t need to look super good, like just a background thing that isn’t the center of attention. Otherwise the way in this vid is a bit better
Also seems to defeat the point of starting with a multi-colour 3D print in the first place. But the principles are good if you want a gf one finish. Depends how good you want the end result I guess. Pick the process for the requirements of the job ..
I swear this would not have taken 24 hours at 0.1 just a year ago. Maybe 16 at most… Defiantly within one working day. If I wanted it done in 4 hours I would have just resin caped it mainly for heat resistance.
i have to admit, after seeing this it makes me realise how hard it truely is to get a nice looking 3d printed rc car body done, as im planning to make one at somepoint
You can do this real easy with popcorn salt and an easy bake oven lol. The finer the salt, the better the prints come out post process. I take pla prints and put them back in a metal Folgers can. Put about an inch of salt in, then place in your parts as open to the sky as possible. Fill the interior areas as best as possible l, then the surroundings until the salt completely covers and has an additional inch. Then play your favorite death metal drum solo on the side, and put more salt in and place in the easy bake and let it go for at least 10 min. Afterward let it cool to room temp to avoid any warping. Pour out the sand into a tray and slowly take the parts out. The excess salt will add weight and may cause damage to fine areas if not removed gently. Dip the parts in room temp water. Warm water may warp parts, cold water does not solute salt effectively. After about a 5 min dip, take it out and admire the textured injection molded look.
I've found that Elmer's Wood Filler works just as well. You'd expect that a wood-based product wouldn't stick to the plastic of the print, but it works just fine. One thing to do is scrape off any excess while it's still wet, because once it dries it's quite hard and can be difficult to sand off all the excess.
My goto filler paste is Bondo Glazing putty thinned to a milk consistency with Acetone (finger nail polish remover) and then Brushed on. At least one other site has recommended thinning even more and spraying the putty, but this stuff dries near instantly so it would need to be a trash/throwaway airbrush. This works great and is quicker than hand applying. Then the process is the same as you described.
Thanks for the video. Ive been doing this for a few years now, its all information I already know, but great job with your explanation of the process and your pictorials of the layer lines and build up of fillers is great. GREAT JOB!
I was a little confused by the 'SIMPLE' word on the video thumbnail - this was not simple at all in my opinion :)) Lots of hard work as should be expected. :) But thanks for the tutorial anyway - great results!!
It is simple, You spread the putty on, then you sand it off and you are ready for paint :) The rest of the painting process is only if you want a mirror finish and isn't part of hiding the layer lines.
Very nice video and lovely desing. Didnt know you are a star wars fan :).. anyway, reminds me that its time to finally purchase a 3D printer. Wondering are there printers with higher printing accuracy so they dont leave so much 'stepping' on the surface printed or is this a common issue for any 3D printing?
Thanks. with this style you always get layer lines. you can make them less by printing thinner layers but there is a limit. These prints were at a .3mm layer height which is a bit big for something this size but I did it to emphasize the issue. If you want prints that are smooth right off the printer you would need to look into Resin printing, but that has it's own set of issues :) Resin is great for printing small detailed things. I have one but don't use it too often.
Not bad but you may want tonlook into resin based fillers. They can be brushed on and are self leveling. They sand well and strengthen the part as well. They also help to stabilize the part against heat like when they are left in a hot car. You do have to worry about sharp corners and pooling though.
I've looked at that also but its a messier processes and has similar issues to using layer of primer. Too hard to control and on vertical surfaces it ends up dripping down. if you had flat horizontal areas it would be great. It would act as a self leveling material.
Myślę, że to całkowicie bez sensu. Poświęcać tyle godzin pracy, żeby zrobić domek zabawkę. Musisz mieć dużo wolnego czasu, żeby się zajmować takimi głupimi rzeczami.
Useful information, but the video will be a million times better if you turn off the stupid dinkley-dink-dink background music - it's really annoying. I had to turn off the sound and just read the sub-titles.
Both models were printed at 0.3 layer heights to make a worst case scenario. Printing at a smaller layer height or using a variable setting would lessen the issue but still not allow you to get a mirror finish as show. It would just require less putty and sanding.
This is decent post processing. I used to do print with 1mm nozzles and blading and sanding them after because i also have no patients. Luckily you can run printers way faster this days in better quality, because nothings beats a good print.
I usually use: ABS -> ACETONE PLA -> ETHYL ACETATE Use a metallic container, pour around 50ml and heat up (use an electric source of heat, no fire at all), once you get enough vapor on the chamber, introduce your print for periods of no more than 10 seconds at a time. Stop as soon as you have desired results or you risk melting your print. Use a respirator and keep away ignition sources from vapors. You can achieve great results.
Not being a smart aleck, at all. Genuine question ... What is the point of printing the part in multiple colors, when you're going to go through this process anyway?
PETG sands better than PLA so it's easier to remove layer lines. Spray applied and left to dry horizontally seems to work best. Lacquer like acrylics dry faster and sand better than enamels. Lacquer actually works better at hiding layer lines than fillers as the resulting surface sands evenly.
If you didn’t want to paint but still have a smooth surface I would try clear resin, either 2 part or UV. Just need one that doesn’t yellow and stays clear. Then you can apply multiple layers sanding between to build up a clear candy coating. I have a few videos on my channel showing the process, I paint after but it’s the same idea.
This just isn't a viable option for many given how long it'll take to do everything. You've got 32 hours worth of work into that one model, not counting the print time.
I can't use this. I tried modelism putty once and the smell is so strong that I can't do it at home. I can't paint either... It sucks to live in a flat.
Well, Not really the place to talk about multi-colour prints since this is about painting them. Would be a waste to do that and then paint it. But they are cool when used for the right prints. :)
Cool, I recently did a new video thinning the putty down with acetone so it can be brushed on like paint. I Ike that process better cuz it’s easier/faster. You should check it out.
I looked it up, results don’t look the same. It melts the surface but not to a consistent level. You still have a lumpy surface that will need sanding and filling.
With 0.1 layers and DCM you can barelly see any lines. Gravity helps with consistency. I usually do three dips - each one from different angle and then use a brush for parts that need more detail. Still ten minutes tops and it smells funny
ooor just add fillet on edges and go down to a .10 or .12 layer height and dont spend any time doing any of this? confused why that was not done on such small parts that you would want good detail on? this is not even a matter of what printer, $200 printers can print without massive layer lines like that. just edit the slice properly and do not rush the print.
I figured people would understand this is an example object and the technique would be used on something bigger, but I guess I assume too much even after stating it in the video. Also you could print at .1 if you wanted to triple your print time and exponentially increase the chance of the print failing. Nothing like waiting 3 days for a print to have it fail 90% done. :)
I noticed you are doing this inside, are you using a protective mask? I had a mask on and was by an open windown and it still stunk up my entire house and made me worry for my pets. I did use the bando brad, is yours less hazardous?
I didn’t fine it that bad. The small can be a bit strong at the start when it’s off gassing the most as it dries. Just having a window open may not help if the air is moving into the house instead of out. Putting a fan in front of the window to force the air out would help.
High quality high build primers (1k is enough) are by far the best way to tackle finishing 3d printed objects. Spray "wet on wet" let the surface "flash" and do another coat, it means you don't have to sand between layers to create a bond, it does it chemically. Learning how to use polyester fillers is an extremely difficult process to learn. It's fine for most people on large surfaces, but when dealing with detail you can end up creating more imperfection than were already there. With all due respect you can see that in the video, the filler has been applied once the chemical reaction has gone to far, and you end up getting a sandy surface, or alternatively dragging cured pieces from your knives through uncured filled. This in turn means you have to sand most of the material off to get it flat, or you end up having to fill your filler, which is a huge wast of time and material. You should definitely key the surface first, but not to much, otherwise you end tearing the plastic and creating nibs which are difficult to remove or hide when priming - also to some degree the ridges act as a key.
That Rustoleum primer dries really slowly, you should try 2k automotive primer, they sell cans that you can pierce at the bottom and mix the mixture and use right away, it dries pretty fast but it's much harder to sand (although it is really strong, so a possibility for an outdoor model for instance) but the can can't be stored for later on, it will keep reacting and getting harder inside the can but there are at least one brand that I've seen that is 2k but everything comes premixed and the can is good for storage and using later on.
How much actual time did it take you to clean up this individual model for the final result in this video? Asking because I'm trying to gauge realistic product finishing times for my own 3D printing efforts.
It obviously varied based on model, a dome is pretty fast to work with. I actually have done a new video using UV resin thickened with baby powder. I think this is my new favorite process mostly due to the fast drying time. No waiting, just hit it with some UV light and sand. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KVf0mbBCygQ.html No drying time is a big game changer and really speeds things up. On a print you can go from start to finish in maybe one hr with 2 coats of resin applied and sanded and ready to prime.
For home use resin in the only way I know of that has its own challenges. There are commercial ones that print different ways that minimize layer lines
It depends what your goal is. If you don’t want to paint the print then yes. If you are painting the print a flat finish then yes as you don’t need to process it to the same amount. If you want a gloss finish then no because you will have to highly process the print anyway and you might as well save on the print time.
@@DaveRigDesign I agree on the gloss finish which looks really nice; but with a decent Cura profile and a 0.2mm Nozzle you can print very nice minis that don't need a lot of sanding. I didn't mind the print times ;).
I'd just like to mention that folks should use a Respirator good for working with fine particles while sanding/cutting. You mentioned this piece is plastic but a lot of people 3D print with resin and that stuff will wreck your lungs if it gets in. If we're making any content like this at all we should warn people as it might be someone's first video in the hobby. Be safe folks, your lungs are important. I'd also just like to point out that the audio in this video was a little off. The music was overbearing and made it hard to hear you talk sometimes, and when you were showing yourself sped up it sounds like you were listening to something in the background which we can hear at like 4x speed under the music while we watch you. Still I really want to say I appreciate this video.
I'm not really into telling people what they should or should not do. I believe in personal responsibly and people should research what they are working with and take the precautions they see fit. I have my own children, I don't need to parent anyone else :) Glad you liked the video though, and yes the audio mix was a bit off. The issue was fixed in future one though.
I saw a video about this earlier. You have Z binding axis. You need to loosen the screws on the vertical thread that allows the bed to move up and down over time. Grease those threads too. It will fix this. Dont waste your time with sandpaper.
@@DaveRigDesignit’s better if you pick the right music, please for the love of miss piggy, Use Joakim Karud Music, it’s not copyrighted and it’s better sounding music.
@@DaveRigDesignyeah but I’m only nine and i’m new to 3d printing so it’s kinda hard, but it works. Oh yeah do you think it’s a good idea to 3d print medallions from fortnite?
Sure, i would print them standing up on their side to get better details and not get the stair stepping on the curved surfaces so there is less to sand.
Just be careful about copywriters. If you design them yourself it’s probably ok but if you’re downloading something from the game you won’t have the rights to sell them and could get in trouble. You’ll want to do some research about that 1st.
