I was about to do one of these and was worried about possible gaps in between the boards since I didn't want to pop the extra $150 for the tongue and groove and I guess I was right. I tried paneling at 1st but found that the materials today are way different for the materials of 20 years ago hence the paneling I bought was sturdy as about a piece of bread. On small strips it just snaps from weight or vibrations from saw. Unfortunately I took off all the old paneling and now need to put it back on before I can paint it black 😬😒 Great solution there, better safe then sorry with the money and time (especially) it takes to get it done 👍
David U heck yeah, when in doubt, just paint it black! And you are right, it’s so hard to find quality anything anymore even good lumber and hardwood is hard to find. But ah well, we work with what have and make the best of it. I’m glad I was able to help you with a solution to hide the gaps! Thanks for stopping by and for taking the time to leave a comment.
Sam Mehta you’re welcome. Installing over Gib should be no problem. I do recommend painting the wall dark or black before you install though, so you won’t see wall from behind peeking through knot holes and so forth. Hope your project goes well!
Thanks for checking out the video. So far no issues with warping after installation, they appear to be very stable. These planks come very, very dry out of the box. I would be surprised I ever have any issues with warping due to moisture changes, but I live in Montana and humidity levels are fairly low here. It would be interesting to see how these do in humid climates like Florida. In any case definitely let these sit in your house for a while before installing so they can acclimatize to the temperature and humidity in your house.
@@MAZINKAIFER it depends on how thick your walls are, how thick the material is your attaching to. I think I used either 2” or 2-1/8”, whatever the longest I had on hand at the time. You have to consider the thickness of planks, plus the drywall (or lath and plaster, or whatever the wall is made of) to determine the length of the nails you need. In this case if I would have just done 1-1/2” nails, the nails would barely penetrate into the studs. Wouldn’t be a solid connection. Hope this helps you determine which length to go with. If you’re unsure, go with the longest your nailer will shoot.
Thanks for the video! I have a question, I notice that you nailed the ends of the boards even where there were no studs. Will these hold in the drywall?
Thanks for checking out the video. All the planks in this video are nailed into a stud at least somewhere along the length of each plank. The stud spacing on this wall wasn’t exactly ideal at 24” on center, and at that they weren’t spaced evenly. The layout I chose unfortunately landed some of the ends of some of the planks in between studs but there weren’t too many layout options with this stud spacing. Nailing directly into drywall isn’t ideal, but if you run into a situation like I had here, if you drive the nails in at opposing angles to each other so they sort of form a criss cross pattern inside the wall that will add a little extra tension and will provide enough extra support at the end of the plank that is not supported by a stud to hold it to the wall. I didn’t mention the criss cross nailing technique in the video, because it is less than ideal and is better to avoid having to use but in certain situations it can work. This technique should really only be used on very light weight non load bearing items like these planks and definitely works best if each plank lands on at least one stud for solid support. Hope that helps.
Jimmie C If you have some real funky situation and can’t find enough studs to at least partially support the planks, as another option, you can glue these to the wall with construction adhesive. Let me know how it turns out!
Did you ever think of doing the walls first, then put the casing around the door and windows? Just thinking that might be a better look if the casing was raised above the wall?
Just Me thanks for checking out the video. I did consider doing exactly that, running the planks up to the edge of the window and putting the trim on top, but decided to go this way instead. The reason being if I had the planks run all the way to the window with the trim on top, then you would be able to see the cut ends of the planks behind the trim, and didn’t think that would look very good. I suppose some additional trim to hide those cut ends could be added if you really wanted the trim over the planks. The trim is quite a bit thicker than than the planks, so it does sit proud of the wall planks achieving a similar finish to what you’re suggesting as it is. Ultimately butting the end of the planks right into the trim hid those cut edges and gave a cleaner look.
@@JFKreations Thanks for the reply, I am considering doing this to my bedroom and have been going back and forth about the trim. Your reason was one of my reasons not to use the raised trim!
How about putting these in a cement wall or old horse hair plater walls that have metal mesh screens and wooden slabs? Is there a way to put them then??? Thanks nice video
Weaber 1/2 in. x 4 in. x 4 ft. Weathered Hardwood Board (8-Piece) homedepot.sjv.io/c/1343238/459920/8154?prodsku=207078140&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fp%2FWeaber-Weaber-1-2-in-x-4-in-x-4-ft-Weathered-Hardwood-Board-8-Piece-27862%2F207078140&intsrc=PUI1_2950 There is also some additioinal information and links in the description below the video you may want to check out. Thanks for checking out the video!
Sergio, it is a RIDGID 18 Ga. Brad Nailer. If you want to take a closer look at the brad nailer, click this link homedepot.sjv.io/c/1343238/459920/8154?prodsku=304530407&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fp%2FRIDGID-18-Gauge-2-1-8-in-Brad-Nailer-with-CLEAN-DRIVE-Technology-Tool-Bag-and-Sample-Nails-R213BNF%2F304530407 Thanks for checking out the video!
Sergio Sausedo Sergio, it is a RIDGID 18 Ga. Brad Nailer. If you want to take a closer look at the brad nailer, click this link homedepot.sjv.io/c/1343238/459920/8154?prodsku=304530407&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fp%2FRIDGID-18-Gauge-2-1-8-in-Brad-Nailer-with-CLEAN-DRIVE-Technology-Tool-Bag-and-Sample-Nails-R213BNF%2F304530407 Thanks for checking out the video!
Thank you for a great film. I need to frame a small monitoring window in our bathroom to inspect if no leeks under the bathtub. It will be an opening on the bottom of the closet next to that bathroom. I want to make a small door (~ 24" x 24") for that opening, but not sure how to frame that cut. I'm thinking about 1/2" thick planks around the perimeter (on one of them there will be hinges for a small door), but how to attach those planks to the drywall? Could you tell what nails or screws to use better for that project? Can I use a regular hammer or better to buy a brad nailer?
Skip the hammer and nail. That’s better saved for framing where the divots left on the wood by the head of the hammer don’t matter. If you want a clean look definitely invest in a nail gun. For lite trim work that doesn’t need a lot of holding strength my go to is an 18 gauge brad nailer. Or you could look at some decorative screws that can add an industrial look to the trim. But one thing you could also look premade plastic panels that are designed for this exact thing. I have a few in my house to access plumbing through a wall. You just cut a square hole in the drywall and slide them in place. It’s a clean look and if it’s in a place that isn’t readily visible anyway, dealing with installing trim and so forth may not be worth the time or cost.
@@JFKreations Thank you. I cut the hole long time ago, when installed the buthtub, since was paranoid if there will be a leak under the tub, and for good reasons since there was initially one, which I fixed via that opening (hole). Now I have time to install a small door there, but can't find any films about it. My main question is how better to frame it so I can put hinges for a small door on that frame. I think 1/2" or 3/4" Poplar plank would be a good solution for that frame. I bought already a brad nailer (18 GA), but not sure what should be the length of the nails, I think 1" (so they don't come out from another side of the drywall). I saw one film where a lady attached the wooden plank to the drywall w/construction glue (I got one, similar to what she used), and then she nailed it slightly w/brad nailer. Though what she did were decorative attachments. The door is small, I think this approach will work as well, and such framing probably will hold the hinges and the door on them. Thank you for the idea about the premade plastic panels, but since the hole is cut already, I think it would be hard to find the insert of that particular size. Also it might give some crumbles of the drywall when you remove it or put back (though a spackling of the edges might prevent it). Thank you again.
It shouldn’t. These are pretty dry and shouldn’t warp any more than they already are, but working with reclaimed wood or in the case faux reclaimed wood, the material is rarely perfectly straight or flat, that’s part of the charm
Quick quespionage I bought the same wood my buddy said I would have to put a clear coat if I put it up on the walls of my garage so termites don't damage it, how true is that statement ?
Good question. Applying a finish or sealing the wood can help prevent insect infestation. There are specific products available designed for just that purpose, but you’ll see that done more often outdoors on fences for example. Saying you “have to” for a feature wall inside a garage is maybe a bit of a stretch and probably comes down more to how concerned you are with infestation compared to the extra time and cost of sealing these planks. I personally would skip that step because we don’t have a lot of termites where I live. I don’t think the extra time and cost would be justified here. But that comes down to a personal philosophy of mine, you have to weigh the cost of doing the thing compared to the actual risks and potential cost of not doing the thing. If you have the time and extra budget and are truly concerned with termites, then you should seal these. If not, then maybe you can get away with skipping that step. Hopefully that helps you make that decision.
Not really all that planned out. There are enough colors to randomize it. I can suggest one approach. Open several boxes at a time and shuffle the deck, so to speak. Once you get rolling you’ll get a feel for how to mix and match and then just go for it
@@JFKreations I finally sorted it out, just sanding my boards now, then stain, then cut and apply. I'll update you later. Mines a small scale project it's just a photo/video backdrop wall.
@@JFKreations Yeah I had built the wall already but I used grey paint/stain combo. Since then I replaced my desk tops with butcher blocks with dark walnut stain, so making the wall to match =D
Situations like that I usually install a backer board first. 1/2” plywood usually works perfect. Once the backer board is attached to the wall, you can brad nail these planks in place just like in the video. Hope that helps and thanks for checking out the video!
What’s worked for me in the past is wall anchors. Set the anchors in the wall and drive screws through the plywood backer board into the wall anchor. If you get slightly higher weight rated wall anchors, you’ll be surprised how well that will hold the plywood. If weight is a concern, furring strips would achieve the same concept as the plywood backer board at a lot less weight. A couple other ideas, there are specialty fasteners made to attach sheet goods to metal studs, they usually have a self drilling head. They are specialty fasteners so you’d probably have to get them at a fastener supply store like Fastenal. Just be sure you get the right type for your application to avoid any galvanic action from dissimilar metals. The people at the fastener supply store should be able to help you find the right screw. You could also frame in a new wall with standard stud framing and drywall, but that could be expensive and may not be practical depending on the size and location of the wall you’re wanting to install these planks on. One last idea, and this is my least favorite because of its permanency is you can glue these decorative planks directly to the wall with construction adhesive. You’d still need a way to temporarily secure them to the wall until the glue dries though. You can drive finish nails in at opposing angles and that will likely hold long enough for the glue to set or, and this is completely experimental because I have not tried this in this exact situation, but a few dabs of hot glue may hold the planks in place long enough for the construction adhesive to set. It is hard to say what the best option is there without being there to see what you’re working with, but hopefully these ideas will lead to something that will work. You may have to experiment just a little.
Thank you!!! I'm trying to use them weathered planks within the three walls that house my daughter's drum set in the basement...but the contractor used plaster walls and secured them with aluminum frame...kinda...lol! Thanks again!
Good question. It’s not shown in this video, but after I installed these wood planks I built an electrical chase along the bottom edge of the wood planks. Click here if you would like to see what I’m talking about ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-io8K7Mf6JLU.html anyway for this project a clean line along the top edge where the wall meets the ceiling was more important than anything else, so starting at the top and working my way down made the most sense. And since I was building it to essentially a built out piece of trim if there were any inconsistencies at the bottom, it doesn’t matter because it would be hidden by the trim/electrical chase. I think that’s true for anything, if you’re covering one end or the other with trim it may make more sense to work toward that direction. So sometimes you may start at the bottom, other times at the top. I’m sure some will disagree with me, but it’s hard to argue with the results. In all honesty, for these I don’t see how it really makes a big difference, either way it will come out fine, since these planks are just square edged, you don’t have to lock them or overlap, like with lap siding. I say just do whatever seems to make sense for your project and go for it.
@@adelchristianhamtig7462 essentially, yes. The gaps between the crooked and warped boards are still there, of course, but you really can’t notice because those gaps just disappear into the shadowy black abyss behind. Light colored paint like what we had on this wall before would have been very noticeable. Definitely worth the time painting black if you have light colored walls if you use rough or weathered wood like this.
Prince A Team yeah, it was kind of inconvenient stud spacing. Mostly 24” on center but on the short sections of wall, didn’t leave a lot of options without more invasive, expensive and time consuming methods of attaching the panels to the walls. Turned out ok anyway. Thanks for stopping by and checking out the video.
