After installing a 2.5" lift on Sean's TJ we wanted to correct the rear driveshaft angle as well as upgrade the driveshaft itself. Shop SYE Kits www.quadratec.com/categories/...
For you trying to decide if you want to remove the tcase. Don't do it. You'll more than likely break the crossmember bolts trust me! Just install it with the tcase still in. It's easy if your jeep is lifted. If it isn't, just get yourself some Jack stands. Not taking the tcase out eliminates so much extra bull crap. Follow all steps in the video, just with tcase in and you'll be fine. Also I have a 2000 Xj. I didn't need to trim shifter rod. Should be the same for all 2000 Xj owners.
That's what I was thinking to myself. I'm glad my idea is right. I have a few time to spare working on my Jeep and I have a few tools too so I always figure what can be avoided dismounting to go straight to purpose. Owning a Jeep sometimes needs to be a tractor mechanic as me to being able to do things by our own. My lifted YJ Wrangler with 33" Hankook Dynapro ATM tires starts shaking passing 65 mph and I wasn't understanding why because the driveshaft was okay but I see now that the goons who lifted this Jeep before I bought it did not made the effort installing a slip yoke like it is intended
what 4wd mode if any should i have selected when i remove the transfer case? Also have noticed rear shaft of my 05 TJ wrangler has what looks like a harmonic balancer does this need to be installed on new driveshaft?
another video specifically said Don't put a "THICK" bead. They are machined. When you took it apart most except a very very small amount filled defects. the other vid had a bunch of silicon inside the case and clogging the filter. I think both ways could create a string of silicone in the case. I'm going to go very thin tighten by hand and let it set up before I crush and hopefully keep the gasket in between the surfaces.
Excellent video. We have installed a few SYE kits on XJs and TJs with the NP231J transfer cases, but this instructional video covers everything! I think I read a couple of years ago that there is now a SYE option for the NP242 as well... Do you guys know any more about that?
Your kit i bought has 4 lock rings and im just curious if you use all 4 because i have one extra and i only saw you install 3 im about to lose my mind lol
I have a Full Traction 4" 3Link on my 04 tj. I'm needing to do an sye here pretty soon as I've still got the stock shaft. I suppose it's trial and error but is it absolutely necessary to readjust the lowers back out if I still have vibes? The upper link is a large heim joint and I'm not sure I'll be able to get onto an available lift to do it.
+Sam Stanfield You will likely need to adjust the arms. Here is a video we did on the Rock Krawler arms, but it shows adjusting them. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rgTV1_p9HRg.html you actually need to have the jeep on the ground for the adjustment.
I have an NP231 J obviously the process will be a little different right? I got all the way through this before reading that in older style NP231J's that you have to remove the caged needle bearings in the sprockets. my output shaft does not want to turn at all. do I need to break it back open and remove those? I'm not sure what year NP231J I have
+jeremy want If the transfer case is back together already then it wont have anything to do with the needle bearings. They would not even fit back together if you have the older one. The most common issues for that would be not having it in 4-lo when disassembling which will cause issues with the linkage, or case not lined up correctly. if the shafts are not perfectly parallel they will bind.
Hi- Just a question to clarify: at the beginning of the video you identify the SYE as Rugged Ridge, yet at the end of the video it indicates an Alloy USA SYE. Can you please advise which brand was installed? Thank you and great video!
Rey Sorry for the confusion Ray. Rugged Ridge and Alloy USA are brands owned by the same company, the one we used is the part we link to at the very end of the video.
Safety note? Support the transmission before removing the support. That's not mentioned anywhere. Very good video though with a few things missing. Like the needle bearing problem someone else commented about and a possible pushrod length difference in the new shorter housing.
+Benjamin Edgerly here is a great article on driveshafts from tom woods: www.customdriveshafts.com/JR7_TW_Driveshaft.pdf do you have a slip yoke eliminator on your transfer case?
Ok, so the Cardan joint at the transfer case ensures the shaft speed is constant, same as the output of the T Case, but there is still a slip joint in the shaft. How else would it extend or shorten?
dumb question and i think i know the answer but i just wanna make extra sure. once i get all this installed i wont need my tcase skid shield spacers right? i can tuck all that right up next to the frame just like stock.
Do Rubicons come with a set up like this factory? Might want to put a 2.5" lift on mine and I'm just boggled and confused over what the internet says you need or don't need when lifting, I mean some people say for a 2.5" lift you don't need to do anything extra, go to a different forum and people say for a 2.5" lift you have to do this and change this, have to drop that, and install this and extend that 30 degrees blah blah and a 2.5" lift ends up costing $1,500.
Just get the lift and if you need to add more later (After youve driven it and experienced it for yourself) then add it. Yoke slip is a little overkill for 2.5 in lift. My TJ has 6" of lift with no sye and it still drives fine. Just have to be okay with a little bit of rumble.
+Martin Mankins That will help with u-joint wear on the pinion side of the driveshaft, but you still need to address the joint at the transfer case side.
wow that is very cool. i have 1983 suburban k20. i want to get a 6" lift kit. but i dont want to drop the drive case do you have a kit for my suburban?? your setup on the jeep are brilliant
It doesn't quite fill the whole case, just under 2 quarts, but there is a fill plug on the transfer case, and you fill until the fluid spills out a little bit then close it back up.
The output shaft housing is not reused, so even if you accidentally chip the case, it doesn't matter because it gets replaced with the new SYE housing.
I did this to my 99 tj and now I have some serious drive line vibration. This is also my daily driver. Dose any one knows what I could do. Please and thanks.
Have you been able to figure this out, yet? The only thing I can think of would be... Most factory installed driveshafts have added weights to balance the driveshaft to the rest of the drive train and aftermarket driveshafts are perfectly balanced, IDK
Why wasn't the rear axle's pinion angle changed to align with the drive shaft angle? I have a 2.5" lift as well and I haven't gone this route because I was concerned about having to change the pinion angle. Are there any negatives to not increasing the pinion angle when you install an SYE and a CV style drive shaft?
I was thinking the same thing. The video made it look like the pinion angle was off, and the rear axle drive shaft joint was pointed straight at the transfer case. Why would you have that angle?
In order to clock the rear diff you on a tj would need to rotate the mounts for the controle arms, trackbar and the spring buckets , a whole lot of work... unlike a leaf sprung cj or yj that you could add an angled shim to for some pinion correction. Hope this helps
M. Engelmann with a CV drive shaft the CV Should take the angle and the individual u joint should be straight at operating angle. Maybe the axle was just dropped for the demo and it sits aligned in the ground. I made this mistake before and even with a CV it the pinion isn't aligned making the u joint on diff at 0 working angle it will shake your teeth out.
Just installed this on a 04' TJ with a 4" lift, went ahead and bought a new rear shaft. Now it is stuck in 4wd???? checked adjustment for the lever, all is good there. Seems to be internal? Any suggestions?
Hey guys, do y'all sell the yoke separately? I've had the SYE for a few years now (it's awesome btw) but recently snapped mine right where it meets the driveshaft. *Don't worry to anyone thinking about buying this, the whole system is super strong, I was just doing something super stupid when in snapped. Thanks!
Not sure where you are located, but there might be an off-road shop in your area. Or sometimes smaller independent shops will have someone that knows how to do it.
I have a late model full size bronco. And almost every upgrade I see for a jk, yj, tj, and even a few cj's are things that came factory on my bronco. Bigger brakes. The lack of a slip yoke on the t case, a full floating front wheel bearing and a bunch of larger pieces. I find this very interesting.
Man this looks like a colossal pain in the ass.... Im glad I got the one that you can just cut, drill, tap, and bolt. I did the whole project In the 4x4 shop parking lot.
This is really a setup that you would want for a lifted TJ. instead of just replacing the joints as they wear out faster than they would on a stock height Jeep. You can do it with a stock height Jeep as well, but you would select a different driveshaft.
***** We include the links to all the parts used in the video in the description and at the end of the video. As of today Nov. 5 2014 the cost of the parts (SYE and Driveshaft) comes to 559.98. The reason we include links directly to the parts and don't mention cost in the video is because if the price changes down the road, we don't have to reshoot the entire video.
+Shaban Agayev It reduces the angle of the driveshaft, as well as moving the adjustment to the center of the driveshaft instead of on the very end of the driveshaft at the transfer case end. Additionally, it adds another u-joint on the transfer case end in the double cardon CV. All of that adds to the strength of the system.
+Quadratec I'm getting dana 44's put into the front and rear of my tj, I currently have 3 inch's of coil lift, a transfer case drop and factory control arms. What all will I need for my axle upgrade? Will I need all new control arms, a sye, and a driveshaft?
+Shaban Agayev Are the dana 44's you are putting in out of another TJ? Upgrading those 3 items are always a good idea, especially if you are putting in 44's
+Quadratec I've decided to leave my dana 30 front and regear it to 4.10s. The dana 44 i'm getting is all preassembled from g2 axles and already has 4.10s and an arb locker in it. Would the arms, sye, and driveshaft all be 100% necessary.
+Shaban Agayev The G2 axles are made to be factory replacements, so they are not necessary, I would double check with G2 about the drivesaft length just to be sure.
Or just buy a custom length driveshaft/prop shaft.. Or don’t lift your vehicle to the sky. Military HMMWV’s run 37 inch tires and they sit at about the height of a half ton pickup. My leveled 1 ton pickup has about the same ground clearance as one and if it wasn’t so long I could do anything your lifted Jeep can. Please tell me about how uncapable HMMWV’s are, I have just a little experience with them.
Buy a jeep & you get a chain driven aluminum t-case, slip yokes, flanged axles, a 6 cylinder & probably a few other drawbacks I forgot to mention. Buy an old 1 ton dodge, ford or chevy & you get a gear driven iron np205 t-case, no slip yokes, full floating king pin axles & v8 power. About the only thing cool about a jeep is the body, and that goes for only some models.
