How to Install a Valve Body: 4L60E 

Thanks for the kind words, man. When did you reinstall your valve body? I published the vid last October so not sure if that was before or after you completed the job. But you now have it in the event you need to do another one!

Thanks a bunch, Marty! Appreciate the kind words and viewership.

You're welcome and thank you for watching, man!

You're welcome and thank you for watching!

Thank you for the kind words, Doug!

Thanks, man! Appreciate the kind words!

​@nickstransmissions hey mate, you didn't put the ball valves in????

Hey Spponser, thanks for watching...There all in there - I use thick, green assembly lube to hold them to the underside of the valve body so they don't fall out.

​@nickstransmissions are you able to show me which spots they go? I did my box the other day and I believe I only had 5/6 metal balls when I took it apart and out it together, I put the box in the car and it doesn't drive so I think I might've lost a ball

Here you go (skip to 35 minutes in): m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EMeefT7Cbzw.html

Thanks, man - appreciate the feedback.

Hi Andrew, thank you for watching. If your 1-2 check ball seating location is wearing and the ck ball is getting stuck, you can repair the plate with Fitzall's plate repair kit: m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--Y_8nfNZse8.html&pp=ygUdNGw2MGUgc2VwYXJhdG9yIHBsYXRlIHJlcGFpciA%3D Im not sure the valve body is the problem but you can test it via the Sonnax vac test machine. What diagnosis work did the shop do to conclude the valve body needs to be replaced?

I asked them if they did a vacuum test on it, he said that my year(2008) is electrically tested instead of vacuum tested, I’m not sure what electrical testing they did, but that’s all they told me. I’m going to dive into it soon and see if the 1-2 check ball has cratered the separation plate before I order a replacement valve body, the truck only has 50,000 miles on it and the shop said they won’t put a new valve body in and offered to replace the whole transmission so I took it back home to work on myself lol. If you have any more advice I would greatly appreciate it, and I love your videos!

I would have nothing more to do with that shop. You can test all 20 years of 4L60Es electrically/electronically and via vacuum testing. I have a video on this channel showing the vacuum testing of a 2010 4L60E valve body. I think you need to find another shop that is willing to test your valve body or simply buy the Sonnax vacuum tester and test the VB yourself. If the valve body is found to have worn bores, depending on the bore that is worn out, you can either purchase drop in valves and/or bore plugs that are slightly oversized to restore sealing integrity in those locations...Commonly worn bores include the AFL valve, TCC regulator valve, forward and reverse abuse bore plug locations and (less common) the low-overrun valve, 3-4 sequencing valve and accumulator regulator valve.

No. Either 3-4 pack is burnt or possibly intermittent speed sensor failure...Disconnect the transmission fuse, fire it up, put it in Drive then see if it moves...Doing this will max the line pressure and put it in 3rd gear...If it still doesn't move, 3-4 pack is wiped and trans has to come out for overhaul.

Oh .... and I have no mil code and also disabled the TCC duty cycle in the tune.

Sounds like either electronic/command and control driven or a small leak in the TCC apply circuit, either in the valve body, input shaft (o-ring) or converter itself going out. It may also be related to your tuning but I don't have any experience in the tuning/programming side of things so you'd need to contact your tuner or consult with a tuning SME.

Hi Gerald, check out my C6 rebuild vid (pt 2) and skip ahead to 49:11 where i begin to install the valve body: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WI-1OeTb-So.html That should give you a good idea of what to do...let me know if you have any questions after viewing it and we can go from there.

Good morning! I'd tighten up that selector shaft retention nut otherwise it may come loose. Not having the kick down shouldn't harm the trans but can't say what the experience would be like from the driver's point of view as it's been over 10 years since I've owned a C6-equipped vehicle.

Hey man you rotated the main drive shaft right? My truck is 4wd so was wondering which one you rotated

Hey Gunnerranch, thank you for the view and sub! Unfortunately, the trans will have to come out as either the forward sprag has broken, low roller clutch broke (this is the case if you have no forward movement in any gear setting on your shifter) and/or forward clutch failed. All this assumes you have reverse.

@nickstransmissions I do have reverse. Thank you! Cheaper to buy a reman or rebuild?

You're welcome, man...It's always cheaper to rebuild your own, especially if you want to upgrade it.

@nickstransmissions man I would myself if I was good enough to do all that I mean I tinker and stuff. But seems complicated haha

In that case, I'd find a local transmission builder well-versed on those units to do the work (most shops are). They will know what updates and upgrades to incorporate so that it's done right and you'll not have to worry about it after everything's completed.

Check line pressure on the trans to confirm/deny a high line condition...It's not common on those like it is the earlier 4L80Es, TH400s etc but it happens from time to time. Also check for the reverse check ball in the case; it's down by the low-reverse feed location. Perhaps it was removed at some point.

Agree, it would be very helpful as a stand-alone vid. Will aim to get one on the channel soon!

I have no idea what specific site or sites you've looked at but ATSG calls for 8 ft lbs, I use 104 inch lbs so as long as you're using 96 inch lbs but no more than 110 inch lbs, you'll be fine.

That could be either TFTS (trans fluid temp sensor") is bad, the fluid is actually too hot or your VSS is bad...If an over-temp condition is detected, the PCM will typically freeze upshifts and adapts...You'll know this is the case if normal function is restored once the vehicle is allowed to sit for a while then you drive it again. If you have P1810, it's likely a bad temp switch (the temp switch is integrated into your pressure switch manifold assembly, which is that oblong thing bolted to the valve body as seen in the thumbnail image for this video. Lastly, check your vehicle speed sensor...yours will be in the transfer case since you have a Z71. If the VSS is bad or there's a break in comms between it and the PCM, you will have no upshift from 1st gear.

@@nickstransmissions I had the same problem but instead of 1st it was 3rd should check the same things?

Up to you...no check ball = firmer engagement in reverse...

Huh? I show all the check ball locations in the valve body. Watch it again, skip to 12:57.

Hi Meangreen, I don't give out my location on RU-vid but if you want to contact me for transmission service if we happen to be in the same location, feel free to reach out to me on the Tahoeyukon.com forum...If you don't have an account, it's free to join so you can sign up and then send me a private message there (my user name is the same as it is on here).

@@nickstransmissions reason i ask, i thought i saw a nv plate in this video lol

Why would you want to swap anything from another transmission into a freshly rebuilt transmission?

@@nickstransmissions it's an 07 it won't work in my 09 Canyon as it sits

More context to the story so I don't look like a complete moron. I bought a wrecked 2007 Hummer h3 for the motor to replace my blown 2009 Canyon. Pulled the engine and transmission and seen the transmission is brand new. The one out of the Canyon looks in rough shape.

Ah i see, makes sense...You can transfer the gears, drums, output shaft, pump but not the valve body or electronics/harness/etc as 09+ is completely different than 07 when it comes to the electrical/electronic stuff.