I'm following this build real close, as i'll be doing the same soon. Building up the parts right now, so i can get it all done in the quickest time. Keep up the good work man, i love the videos. Darren :D
This is the sort of turbo info people like me need. I've always wanted to do one but never wanted to go through with it because of the after-market ecm and all the wiring and tuning and this and that. I just want 5psi to make a junk 4 banger fun different and just flat out cool to daily around.
Super curious to see how this setup works for you. It has me considering a similar route as a first step before selling one of the dogs and the couch to get a standalone. Also, this video added $10 to every used FMU on ebay for the next year. Those sellers thank you.
Hi Greg; +TheCarPassionChannel Firstly i must thank you about your informative videos, Great job!!! I have budget project like yours (nearly same) but i wonder that you ever thought to put Rx7 Afm and tune it for run richer mixture at whole rpm band to make it safer and reliable? + add lil more boost like 7psi or 8psi? Thanks from now...
ok so fun fact for nb owners! you can use this, just convert them to return fuel style with a few feet of fuel hose and either an na fuel rail, or you can just use use the pulsation dampener connection, or just drill a return port in the end, and just hook up an NA vacuum referenced fpr in addition to your vortech.
Hey bud got another question for you. If that disc doesn't work for you, what ratio would you get? Thanks so much for answering all of my questions. love the vids. keep up the amazing work.
+AMC Casares I don't really know. The first step would be pulling that one out and figuring out what it is. I hear most people use the higher ones for this setup 10 or 12:1.
I'm in the UK so I can't get hold of a vortech, would an eBay fpr work the same? doesn't have discs though, not sure how they work @thecarpassionchannel
Did you ever find out what the disc was in the fmu? I am planning on getting one, with 1.8 injectors, t2554 pushing around 8 lbs of boost. Im debating on either the 10:1 or 12:1 disc
Hey so I'm going to end up buying a brand new Vortech FMU the only thing I need to know is what are the fittings because they have multiple FMU's with different fittings take your time. I haven't even bought my 1.6 miata yet.
hey mate just wanting to know some info on your other car because I am building a turbo 1.6 myself. are you running 270hp with stock internals? if so how haha. I have been told by a couple of people to run forged pistons other wise they will melt I'm only going for 230/250rwhp. I have got b6t rods to go in and will be running on 98 octane unleaded. what other safety mods do you reckon I should do and do you think stock pistons will handle that short of power ?
Sorry if this is a stupid question but is the miata's power fuel limited now? And if so, would there be a way to run bigger injectors on the stock ECU?
Yes you actually can run a little bit bigger injectors, but not too big. A lot of people put 1.8L injectors in the 1.6L engine. If you go too big (350cc+) the stock ECU won't control them right and the car will run poorly.
what do i do if the nbs have a return fuel line instead of returnless? i am thinking of getting a voodoo box or some kind of similar fuel signal modifier
+TheCarPassionChannel do I really need an FMU? can't I just use an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator like this one? www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Blue-Adjustable-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-With-Filled-Oil-Gauge-Aluminum-/401002363982?hash=item5d5d9a7c4e:g:PR0AAOSwFMZWrxZS&vxp=mtr
robertas grigas Yes you need one if you have stock injectors / ECU. FMU raises the pressure as boost raises, but leaves pressure stock while at cruise and idle. That's what you need. With an adjustable regulator, it just makes the fuel pressure high all the time, and it won't run right.
TheCarPassionChannel actually, couldnt a small boost in fuel pressure help it along if you were to use a voodoo box like i mentioned in my other comment? cause the stock ecu fuel program is closed loop, correct?
+James Varner I'll get into ignition in a couple episodes. Probably 6psi??? I'll have this thing on the dyno at a few different boost levels to find out. It's going to be a pretty inefficient setup so it might take extra boost to hit a certain power level.
+Artoast I'd try it if it was my car, boost is boost. MS is really the way to go but plenty of people are running around with reliable band-aid builds.
@@ethanramdahin8016 you can't adjust the base fuel pressure if you are running the stock ECU, that's the whole reason for needing the FMU. the tune in the stock ECU is specifically made for a certain base fuel pressure, the FMU only modifies the fuel pressure in boost (since the stock ECU is not tuned for that). If you are running too rich, while not in boost, then it is most likely not a fuel pressure issue. The stock ECU should be handling that
Hey Greg, I'm installing the Bell Engineering adjustable one. I know how to do everything but the check valve. Do you know what it is/where I attach it to? I've looked every where on Miata turbo and Miata.net
+Matthew Andreotti I would send Begi an e-mail with your question. It's a vacuum check valve right? I *think* it goes into the vacuum line so the regulator doesn't see vacuum, it can only see positive pressure. So the direction you can blow through the valve would face the FMU.
+TheCarPassionChannel yeah it only lets boost in. I talked to a shop and they put me in the right direction. I can run it without boost and it will only let fuel pass through it because boost is what causes it to raise the pressure. Thanks! How much psi are you planning on running with this build?
It's not really a worry with the stock pump on Miatas since the pump maxes out around 80psi; stock injectors are somewhat safe under 100psi. If you have an upgraded pump it could become a concern though, and your disc size selection is more important.
Instead of Vortec Fuel MU , how about a piggyback such as an Emanage Blue as I can learn to tune it more before going standalone , plus as my goals are about 200 whp I may end up sticking with it. I see the bandaids as being more unpractical also...
As far as I know, you still need to raise the fuel pressure in boost, or else you won't have enough fuel with the stock injectors. I'm not sure if Emanage can run upsized injectors.
+TheCarPassionChannel thanks for reminding me , I did read that somewhere , I think that is the reason I was thinking to go Ultimate instead of Blue or AEM FIC even. Momentarily I kind of got this EManage B free minus PNP harness... and already have just clean NB8 purple injectors also free
Hey, hope you read old comments. I have a 1.8 JRSC miata running stock boost (around 4psi). I have an msd ignition box to take care of the timing. Car runs a little iffy sometimes and its because of the fuel. I dont really want to go in on a MS right now since its such low boost i feel like the vortech would help me enough. What ratio should i go with? 1:8? Thanks man - Bobby
no AFR but i know it starts running lean when i get into boost. i live in south florida and over winter when its 70 degrees it runs a lot better than when its summer and 90-100 degrees outside. basically i need more fuel and i would like to know if i should go with the 1:8 FMU?
Im using the largest size disc and only getting 60 psi fuel. Leaning out to 16-17 afr. Would the vortech be faulty? Every other component involved with fuel has been replaced
Fuel pump is probably just tired... They usually max out around 75-80. An upgraded pump will fix that but then you have to be careful not to over-pressure the injectors
@@TheCarPassionChannel haha agreed. Ecus can be a little pricey here in New Zealand but im thinking of going that route anyway. I had been playing with the idea of going turbo on this car for years doing everything myself, when i found your videos on it, it gave me the motivation that i could actually do it. Withn two weeks i turned it into a turbo build. You're super informative and down to earth on your videos. The only channel I need to follow! Haha Keep it up man love the content
Nate Morris not if you have a stock fuel pump. With a stock pump your pressure will max out around 70-80psi no matter what disc you use, which is safe for the stock injectors. If you upgrade the pump it's recommended to stay below 100psi on stock injectors so you have to choose the disc more carefully.
+TheEpicCoww Do some reading, very common setup. People have been running setups like this for 10+ years since the old Greddy turbo kits were still available. I'm not breaking any ground or doing anything new here, just bringing some forum information to light, since everyone seems to be afraid of forums.
+TheCarPassionChannel Correct! This is old school stuff, used to be used A LOT back in the early 2000's this WILL work if the rise rate keeps the fueling around 11:1 and the stock pump can keep up with the additional pressure.
quick question man, We're looking to boost my gf's miata here pretty soon. we plan on going this route and later down the road switching to MSpnp, however, we have a quick question. the turbo shes wanting to run has an internal WG of 14psi. obviously that would be way too much for factory injectors and way too much period for my consciousness lol is our only option getting a smaller wastegate spring or would a boost controller work well? I've owned a few boosted cars however never gone a cheap route like we are doing here so its a bit different for me lol.
The only way you can lower the boost is with a softer spring in the actuator. If it's a sealed unit, that means a new actuator with a softer spring already in it. Boost controllers can only raise the boost above wastegate pressure, not lower.
+TheCarPassionChannel do you know if any Watergate will do fine? the ones i see online say like (garret turbo wastegate) etc and lead me to think it would only work for a GT turbo. however, my common sense tells me that it should work with anything lol
Ryan and Chad's car reviews The main thing that affects if a wastegate actuator will work on different turbos is how long the arm is, and if the clevis will fit onto the flapper. I have a video on my other channel about modding a wastegate actuator to fit, just search "boostvlog 2" that might help answer your question as well.
ifixed it An adjustable fuel pressure regulator won't really help you on a stock ECU. You need a rising rate unit like I have in the video. If you crank up your fuel pressure with an adjustable FPR, the car will probably run horrible with a stock ECU.
Adam Karmowski As far as reliability, I have about 8000 miles on the car so far since boosting. I am running MS now, but still have the stock injectors and FMU. I will have a vid out somewhat soon with power numbers, I'm estimating about 135whp, limited by the stock injectors and stock clutch.
+Orion Shea Hey bro, I'm also 6'2, I have the stock seat in my miata and can fit just fine, i dont daily drive it but its not super cramped and im not hitting my head or anything, if you have big feet the pedals are pretty small and close together but its really not that bad, go test drive one but go for it! they are so much fun
