Intercooler Piping Part 2! (Broke & Boosted Ep13) 

+PlymParkOG Awesome! That's what I like to hear.

+TheCarPassionChannel idk what it is but you shoukd be a teacher or something... the amount of knowledge that you drop in a way people can pick up easily is phenominal!! keep up the great work! just the right amount of hummor too.. where has mrs car passion ben hidding? does she go to the track with you and stuff?

Dennis F. Haha she's usually hiding under her car with a Snap-On impact gun.

Tucker Connette no car person does that I think they hate it when people ask for links. It’s always like “google is your friend stop being lazy” It’s like damn sorry for asking. But he said a lot of the things he got off eBay

+hayden allen You better unsub now, I still have to pay for the downpipe.

What's that gonna cost? another $14? Now I can't pay rent. This is just getting ridiculous...

No catch can, and yeah the autozone PCV is junk. I may upgrade to a GTX valve. I'm not sure on timing yet, probably 6 degrees at first and I'll wait until dyno day to see if it can handle any more.

Same also nice car on your channel

+andres tamayo I supposed you could do that? I've never seen it. You'd have to adapt the AFM to your intercooler piping size, extend the harness, find a place to fit it, etc. It's going to be a restriction no matter where it is, so I don't see any reason to move it.

+Musa Bashir I will be doing a reroute video, probably some time over the next month.

+griffin palmer Yeah this video was perfect timing, TDIB talked about the filter piece getting eaten by turbos the same day I uploaded this so I got dozens of people telling me about it, lol. Thanks! I'll be replacing it at some point.

me221, just like MS2, should be able to run the stock ISCV.

Even if you do MAF/AFM delete, it should be plumbed into the intake piping, although it can technically be left open from a tuning standpoint, if it doesn't fully seal it would be a boost leak.

@@TheCarPassionChannel ok I understand,,, thanks ever so much for answering.. so amazing to be able to find this stuff out so easily,, a few years back before the internet (Maybe a bit more than a few), would be sooo much harder. And of course a big thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge 👍👍👍

+f2rder Hahaha. Very funny, where were you 2 days ago!!! No I haven't done it on that car, I have other things to fix first, like the passenger door not opening.

Also damn. I commented on this vid 4 years ago. Time flies.

You should still run the IACV hooked up to the IC piping, or just delete it altogether. But if you're running power steering or a/c you should definitely keep it.

+TheCarPassionChannel ya I definitely do not have power steering. And ac... I'm from Canada who need ac. How would you end up blocking the plate off?

WigglingWaffles It's recommend. If the ISCV leaks in boost, it will be a boost leak unless it's plumbed into the IC piping

You mean hook it up to the piping? Technically no, but it needs to be filtered if it's left open

The only thing I really advise people to do, is to go Megasquirt in the beginning. Or at least do tons of research other than my videos to make a good decision about it. It's expensive, but it's going to make a more powerful, safer, more reliable car.

+James Armijo It's all stock. The stock 1.6 A/C and P/S use v-belts, and the alternator uses a V-belt. In order to switch you'd have to swap the crank pulley, water pump pulley, and alternator pulley to 1.8 versions. (That's what I've done on my other car.)

It's best to tap into the IC piping even if you're on a standalone ECU. You never know if the IACV might leak under boost; but if it's connected to the piping it won't matter!

Awesome, thanks for your input!

Yes you will need to tune the ECU, it won't tune itself. There are several advantages of upgrading.

+AmanYoskii You should hook it up to the intercooler pipe in case the valve leaks backwards in boost. A breather on the valve cover? That's how I've run mine, it's not the best way but a lot of people do it like that.

+TheCarPassionChannel yea that's what i meant

+Anthony Castillo You mean just the vacuum line? Yes. Intercooler piping, after the intercooler.

+TheCarPassionChannel could you possibly email me?

Anthony Castillo Shoot me one: thecarpassionchannel at gmail dot com

+TheCarPassionChannel sent!

+JaguarJay I like the ISCV to be connected to the piping for one reason: if the ISCV leaks backwards, that's a boost leak if it's open, but not if it's hooked up to the IC piping. Yes a breather should be fine on the valve cover, although a catch can or routing like in this video would be better. If you have enough fuel pressure, you can run that much boost with the stock injectors. If you don't have any way of raising fuel pressure, you're just tuning with MS, you just really need to watch the AFR's to see when you start running out of fuel. You spent $800 on MS but you're too cheap to buy a $170 set of RX8 injectors? It's worth the upgrade. The only way to lower the boost is to either change the wategate actuator to one with a softer spring, or if it has an adjustable rod you can prop the flapper open slightly but say bye bye to all your spool up. If you have a 7psi spring and you want less, you can just use less throttle and the boost won't go as high.

+TheCarPassionChannel Thanks for all the info! The bad part is the injectors are pretty hard to come by here so that's why I want to try to use the stock ones. And about the wastegate, that's what I had heard so it'll look like I'm going to need a new wastegate as well :P

+TheCarPassionChannel Again I want to thank you for replying this quickly. I know it's a lot of work to (try to) reply to everything everyone says and/or asks and I just want to say I really, really appreciate it. You're pretty much one of the reasons I'm going turbo and you've been of great value helping me along the way. Keep up the awesome work!

JaguarJay No worries man! It's a pretty big undertaking to try to get back to everyone but I do the best I can.

+Ben Covington Congrats on the purchase!

+John “Otter” Pulliam The BOV won't affect anything, it's controlled by vacuum, not boost. The spring should hold it closed in all situations while the car is n/a. If you're thinking about intercooling an n/a car here are some things to consider: -The weight of the intercooler + piping will likely negate any power gains -You can't get the air any colder than ambient air temp, so a cold air intake is just as effective but without the extra weight -Even if the air is cooled in some situations, the intercooler could still restrict the air vs. an open pipe -Intercooler will block airflow to the radiator and affect water cooling

+TheCarPassionChannel haha not just installing FMIC & piping on an NA for Street cred, I'm just trying to as much of the turbos supporting parts installed as safely as possible before putting her down to do the main install I.E. Turbo Manifold/T25 Turbo/Drill oil pan for return port&run lines/Weld custom downpipe. That way the car isn't down for very long at all. I just need to get my t25's hotside and waste gate hole ported and my manifold's runner entrances and collectors discharge section needs to be cleaned up since the piping wasn't shaved enough and while im in there check for sloppy welds & repair as necessary. Then gasket matched(drill and dremel) to take advantage of the extra flow each port could have since they decided to leave the steel flange just hanging out there balla blocking my exhaust flow. j/K but seriously. I just wanted to know if it would affect driveability of the car by running the intercooler and piping with no turbo for a maybe a two week period of time really. I highly doubt any of the things I need will take longer than that to prepare.

Yes, it's already been metered.

Yep.

+Leoven Live You know it man, every job takes at least three times as long when I'm filming because I want to make sure everything comes out good and makes sense, and everyone can see what I'm doing. Checking the focus and white balance on every shot, etc. It's more work than most people probably think.

+pleb Yeah I may do something like that after the end of the project.

great, thanks. I'm really wanting to basically copy what you're doing with broke&boosted.

PCV closes at WOT on a turbo car, the boost forces it to close so intake manifold pressure cannot get into the valve cover. That's where the breather comes in. It will blow out air via blow by, but when hooked up to the intake (pre-turbo if the car is boosted) the intake will create a vacuum during times of high airflow and help "extract" the blow by pressure from the valve cover.

@@TheCarPassionChannel how about connecting the pcv pre-turbo ,, is that a good idea?

@@RabeaHussain No - the PCV valve needs manifold vacuum to work correctly

+Luis Nunez All ordered online or bought at Home Depot / Autozone

+TheCarPassionChannel sweet thanks for the info man

+Brooks Goans Yes many people have made me aware of this, lol. I'll probably change that out.

Good deal, sir! I'd hate to see all this progress go to waste.

+Striball The AFM is far from a fuel pump switch, if that were true why wouldn't it just be on the ignition tumbler?

+TheCarPassionChannel Oh very true, I guess it acts on variable pressure for the fuel pump or something

Striball The pump always runs at the same speed, the fuel pressure regulator maintains a constant pressure in the rail. The AFM gives the ECU a signal to control the injectors from based on airflow and air temperature.

A very similar setup can be done. I do like the fender-routing more if you're keeping A/C + P/S though.

+TheCarPassionChannel Thanks peter. Would the whole turbo setup be the same other than piping?

Mohammed Al-Shaqeil There are some differences but the concept is the same, yes.

It idles good, sometimes just a little lean, but no stalling. I'm still working on it. Double check all your piping, make sure there are no leaks anywhere.

+Dr Chemli Where are you finding a remapped stock ECU? And only if there's some alternate way the ECU knows how much air is coming into the engine, like a MAP sensor.

+TheCarPassionChannel its for my turbo 36 project

Ebay and Amazon pretty much

+t4teeee No

+TheCarPassionChannel thanks

+t4teeee you will have to run a GM IAT sensor or equivalent if you do not run an AFM or MAF with megasquirt

Jacob Place Other car is running Megasquirt, there is no need for the AFM anymore.

thank you, these videos are awesome only makes me wanna buy a Miata more than i did before ahah

+ian rasch No, because MS operates on manifold pressure, not measured amount of air.

+juliocv19 You can piece together an FMII-quality kit for less than the FMII price. Good places to invest money are the manifold, turbo, and downpipe (Flyin' Miata parts are excellent, as well as their customer service). Places you can save money are the intercooler and intercooler piping. I'm running a CX Racing intercooler and all DIY piping from siliconeintakes dot com on my other car, I've put over 36,000 boosted miles on it, and it's less than 1/3 of the FM intercooler/piping setup. Also, go with MS2 or MS3 instead of the Hydra that FM offers. Depending on how budget you want to go and what your power goal is, a set of refurbished RX8 yellow injectors from eBay can be an excellent choice. $170 and good for 220-230whp on stock fuel pressure. If you want something you won't be replacing for a while, go with some Injector Dynamics 1000cc's. Long story short, it's usually cheaper to piece a kit together, but you need to know what parts to invest more money in of you want a reliable, powerful build.

+TheCarPassionChannel you make it sound so easy bro thanks for the reply but I'm in the medical field cars are way out of my lane like I said I have the money just not the knowledge I was hoping to go to one of your car meets and hopefully link up with someone that could help but I just moved here from Japan.

juliocv19 That's a major upside to the complete FMII kit, it's all inclusive so you don't have to hunt for parts! The only thing I'd recommend is getting the kit without electronics, and buying the ECU and injectors separately. Definitely cruise to a meet! If you're on Instagram or Snapchat I always post info there about the meets too.

+TheCarPassionChannel for sure thanks for the info I always get compliments on my miata now I just want to beat mustangs lol

juliocv19 Your 03' motor won't have to work near as hard as my 1.6 to accomplish the same goal. Good luck and hope to see you at a meet!

+Joshua Rivera I'm fairly certain that all hardtop compatible bars will work with a soft top, but that's not true in reverse because most softtop bars are taller. (Mine is a Hard Dog hardtop bar so it works with both.).

+TheCarPassionChannel well I was on the hard dog website and I was going to get a roll bar that fit a hard top assuming what you just said was true, and then it asked if I wanted the double diagonal with it, and I said yes then it said that my roll bar would not be compatible with a soft top with a glass window, so why is that ?

Joshua Rivera Because there's not room for the glass window to fold down probably.

+TheCarPassionChannel oh that makes sense, what do you recommend then ? I need a roll bar that works for both hard top and soft top with glass, I would like for it to already have a harness bar with it, and I like the look of double diagonals the best. Thank you for all the help !

Joshua Rivera The only one I can recommend from experience is anything from Hard Dog, excellent quality bars and customer service. I believe they still offer bars with and without the harness bar. Mine came without and I added the bolt-in version later.

+Classified Recon As I said in the video, it's only a temporary solution so I can drive the car to the exhaust shop to have a downpipe made and then install the sensor.

rudnick has an o2 sensor on his dump pipe

Jesus Juice Official oh, ok thanks!

+ericbarasch123 I already drove it there. The car just runs in open loop the whole time, typically stays rich. I'll throw the video link in the description of the first drive, haha

+ericbarasch123 As far as I know the ECU just runs permanently rich when the O2 sensor is absent. Isn't that what's being done by the switch that he DIY'd up? When the intake manifold/intercooler piping sees boost it'll cut the O2 sensor signal and by doing that it'll go into some sort of error open loop which dumps as much fuel in the engine as possible.

+JaguarJay Oh wow he replied already xD

+LapLandSystem oops, I'll fix that

The ECU doesn't adjust the fuel pump, it adjusts the injector duty cycle. There is a possible variance there but there's no room to put it anywhere on that side really, 99.999% of people run it just like I do. The intercooler also helps keep the air coming into the engine close to the air temp of the engine bay. (Running MS now so I can monitor IAT's)

ok thanks

+Zach Noriega It's essentially the same way I'm doing it. I told him a lot of the stuff to buy for his car, haha. It works! He'll run out of fuel or clutch before he ever gets over 10psi though

Oh ok kool. Haha I noticed he mentioned u a lot in his Vids. BTW I like how ur doing this series. I like how you explain things a lot