Wow thank you. I had just gotten my radio installed and for a while I wasn't sure where to get switched power from. You are a genius for using that power window fuse. I was thinking of going to the engine bay. Thank you! I just need to get the adapter kit to mount the radio and screw it in... Walmart was sold out.
THANKYOU times a million i spent at least an hour trying to get the radio to come on with the key , every forum had me try pink wires, brown wires, green wires im just hacking up my factory harness trying to make it go Thankyou it works good now
There is no video better then this to describe exactly what to do!!👍👍...i hooked the remote wire for the aftermarket subs amp to the same wire as the fuse wire in this video because the radio wire was constant but now the radio doesn't always shut off when it supposed to after you open the door...any suggestions??
Do u know how to get my door chime and blinker sound to work? Everything else worked well but I haven't taken it apart again since installing. I couldn't remember where to splice the pinkish wire to?
I’m deciding on upgrading my sound system on my 2012 impala Ltz with the Bose sound system.Im thinking on doing the 3 way 350 watt pioneer speakers.In the back I’m going to do a pioneer 700 watt.Am I doing this right?also getting different tweeters.I might have blown my Bose speakers somehow.I don’t play them past half volume but my bass is at max.Got any better speaker brand suggestions?
i like this video and i did find some help. the help is in regards to the red wire mentioned. with some looking there is not alot of clear easy to understand info on what is really needed. i did not find the kit you used on the scoche site. no mention of much on the metra site. crutchfield and sonixelectronix has so many choices. from the simple harness to 150 dollar options. thank you for the slower paced video with good camera work. so many race and sloppy camera.
Thank you for this excellent video! I was able to wire and install my radio step by step along with this. A quick question. My radio stays on when I turn off the ignition, and only shuts off if the passenger door opens (not the driver door). I suspect this is from the 12V wiring to the fuse box. Can this be fixed to turn off from the driver door?
Glad it helped! The passenger door is interesting. Mine continues to supply power for a short period of time when the ignition is turned off, but will immediately cut the power when the driver door is opened. I will double check all of the doors and report back. It will probably be on Monday. Currently out of town for the week.
I just checked all of the doors. After shutting off the ignition, the radio stays on for a while. However, opening any door immediately cuts power to the radio. I tested each door individually and they all turned off the radio.
Thanks for this video! I bought the exact kit shown in video, It made it super easy! Any advice I'd give someone is buy a Sony or name brand stereo. I bought a Chinese off brand and it had some of the wire colors/ purpose mislabeled that caused confusion and neither of the plastic brackets fit my stereo and the screw holes didn't line up. I had to snip, cut, sand, drill and paint them and reinforce the cheap plastic wings with metal but it was solid and custom fit in the end. Looks great and works perfectly!
Hey buddy do you have to run the swtch power to the fuse? Im onstalling an aftermarket in my daughters 07 impala , i used a harness and im not getting power. Should i run the red wire same as you ? Thanks in advance .
Yes, run the red wire to the window fuse. It needs to get power only when the key is on. There is not at wire in the factory harness with switched power. It only has constant power (yellow wire). The factory stereo has an internal way to use constant power only. Aftermarket stereo requires constant power (to save the time and preset radio stations) and it also needs separate switched power to turn the unit on when the key is on.
Prob a silly question but do I need to disconnect my negative still even if I need to check for live wire? My vehicle doesn't have original connecters so I have to re wire everything from the aftermarket including putting a 12v ignition wire like in the vid. Btw I have a 2010 chevy cobalt.
If you are checking for live wires, the battery will need to be connected for that. But it’s a good idea to disconnect the battery since you are cutting the factory harness. You may want to consider reconnecting a factory plug to the vehicle harness, then get the plug-in adapter to jump from the factory plug to the new stereo. Otherwise, if you needed to connect a different stereo in the future, the factory harness may get too short if you have to keep cutting and re-splicing it.
Is there anywhere else u can connect the red wire to? Tried what u said to do and it melted the cord. I didnt plug in everything in the same order as you did. Did I need to do it in that order?
You need a power source that provides 12 V when the key is turned on, and 0 V when the key is turned off. You could use a probe and look around for other sources. I am not currently aware of any others. If the red wire melted, then your radio has a problem because it is drawing way too many amps. Also, the radio should have a little fuse on the back, preventing it from drawing too many apps. Something strange is going on.
@@rma7921 Thank you, Im in the market to upgrade my 08 impala's stereo and i wanna make sure (whatever I get) is XM ready. Been looking on crutchfield website.
I do not have steering wheel controls, so I cannot verify first-hand, but I have read that this kit will NOT keep steering wheel controls. The instructions for the specific Sony stereo that I used say that the stereo itself does retain steering wheel controls. So, you may need a harness and a stereo designed to retain controls. Unfortunately, I do not know what harness to recommend for that. I think maybe this kit is designed to retain all functionality, but I do not know for sure. I recommend calling the manufacturer to verify this is correct. amzn.to/42zJ5c8 www.crutchfield.com/p_120GMOS04/Metra-GMOS-04-Wiring-Interface.html?cnxclid=16796236390059893953210090301008005
So if we get an aftermarket radio we don't need to get the password? Cuz I was reading that if you get a replacement radio you'll need a password for it or something? But not an aftermarket radio? My radio just died in my 06 Impala. 😢
I have an 08 impala ltz. Will the linked harness still plug in correctly? Planning on running a different amp anyways so not worried about bypassing the stock one.
No. The power windows are not affected at all. Just using the same power source. And by using the input leg of the fuse, the windows are still fused correctly (the stereo doesn’t go through the window fuse). The stereo should have its own fuse on the back.
First off, great video and very detailed. However, I would highly advise against connecting the switched power red wire to either the line or load side of the power window breaker. I get the radio has circuit protection but circuit breakers are also intended to protect the wire as well. That red wire will not handle 25+ amps of power in the event of a short. If a short occurs, the insulation of that red wire will melt and could cause a fire. This red wire should be placed on an appropriately sized breaker and make sure it is on the load side Of the breaker (i.e. output side of the breaker).
I've heard that splicing the wires like this means that the warning chimes (e.g. for when the door is open) no longer function. There are some much more expensive harness adaptors on the market that claim to retain this function. Is this true? These more expensive adaptors also claim to retain the retained accessory power (so the radio can function for a short time after switching the ignition off) and the steering wheel controls. Do I need the more expensive adaptor for all these things or do they still work with this method? Thanks!!
I will do some testing and let you know. I know for sure that as normal, the radio stays on for a while after shutting the vehicle off, but it shuts off immediately if you open the drivers door. This functionality is the result of tapping into the power windows. I’m not sure about the warning chimes. I guess I have not paid that much attention. I will let you know.
I can verify that as normal, the radio will stay on for a while when turning the key off. Or it will shut off immediately when you open the drivers door. However, it does not appear to do any warning chimes. I opened the drivers door with the key in the ignition, and there was no chime. I’m not sure what made a chime or not chime with the old original stereo. I guess I never noticed. I do not have any steering wheel controls (other than cruise control) so I could not test that. But the stereo instructions says the stereo compatible with steering wheel controls. Not sure about the adapter harness. I hope that helps!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Yes, on these vehicles you will lose chime when you install the radio with one of these harness adapters. There are more expensive ones that do retain chime, the cheaper of which can add humming or feedback to the audio of the car. another note, some of these vehicles have stock amplifiers, and it will have a different harness adapter as well. the vehicles without the stock amp will work with this harness but you may have to modify the stock harness on the vehicles with an amp.
@@deadchannel991 Thanks, I appreciate it! The whole purpose of my channel is to help people out and I would hate for someone to buy this kit and unknowingly lose functionality. I think this is critical information that should be disclosed at the beginning of the video. I will do a little more research, delete this video, edit it, and repost it with this information disclosed at the beginning. I think steering wheel volume controls may also be lost, but I don’t have volume buttons on my steering wheel, so I don’t know for sure.
Im confused. Ive checked some of the comments and you say that if the impala has the bose amp between the 2 6x9s then you cant use this kit. And some comments you can. Which is it. I have the 2014 ltz limited. And i see the amp in the trunk. And i have already ordered the kit. Will it work on my model?
It’s been a while, but I believe the amp requires a power source from the stereo, which this simple harness doesn’t provide. A more expensive harness kit is required.
@@lilchezboi6156 its not a special harness. It's about a certain wire that turns the amp on. I believe it's the remote wire. It's one of them blue wires on the harness. It needs to be hooked up to the red wire to turn on when the radio turns on.
hi im using the same plastic harness kit, but i have a Kenwood DMX7709S, I connected the plastic bits in the exact same way you did but it refuses to fit properly, would you happen to know why? Thanks!
Use the instructions in the Kenwood manual. I see yours has a metal sleeve, which is common. My Sony did not have a metal sleeve, so your install into the plastic adapter will be a bit different.
Changed the radio in my car and got no sound. Same harness and everything. I do have steering wheel controls. Don’t know if I need the interface or not
I have the red wire conneceted. I have power to the stereo but have NO SOUND ??? I am mechanically inclined but NOT stereo inclined lol my son wanted a new stereo in his 2012 impala and I am stuck now !! Why is everything working but NO sound ?? Head unit is all that was replaced everything else is factory. So what and where is my issue ???
does your impala have bose audio? it should say "bose" on the door panels if it does. If so, you likely have a stock amplifier and need to supply power to it from the radio you installed.
Does it turn off when you open the door? Yellow is supposed to be constant power. Red is supposed to be switched/ignition power. Check that it’s wired correctly. Double check your red power source only provides power when the ignition is on.
@@fernasty497 After you turn the ignition off and remove the key, your windows (and radio) should continue to work for a minute or so unless you open the door. When you open the door, the power is cut immediately. Do your power windows stop working when you open the doors with the key removed?
Found my mistake I hooked it up to the fuse below the one you used. So I just moved it to the fuse above (the one on the video) and everything works fine now as it should.
Well, the fit guide just lists 2006 to 2013 Impala. But, the 14-16 Limited LS is the exact same body style, so I personally think it would work and I would buy it with no concerns. To be safe, you can call Scosche customer service and ask.
i hooked mine up the same exact way and it wont even turn on? what could be wrong? the manual says the red is the accessory and the yellow is the constant
That is correct. Yellow is constant and red is accessory. To turn on, you have to supply power to the red accessory wire on the radio harness. (end it also needs to be grounded with the black wire).
There are typically two power wires. 1) yellow constant power. This always supplies power to keep the clock accurate and preset radio stations saved. 2) red accessory power. This only provides power when the key is on and is what powers the radio for operation. The factory harness only has the yellow constant power. It does not have the red accessory power wire, which is what the aftermarket radio needs, which is why we have to wire it in from a different source. (You can’t use the yellow wire because the radio will always be on, even when the car is off). The stock radio received data when the key was on and internally programmed to use the constant power when the key is on. This is not typical. Most radios have a yellow and red wire, and aftermarket radios need a yellow and red wire.
The stereo doesn’t have any special marking’s. It looks exactly the same for standard vs. Bose. The way to tell is the front door speakers will have a BOSE logo on them. The only other way is to look for the amp (the Bose system has an amplifier, while the standard system doesn’t).
so i got it all hooked up right with a good harness did the red wire to the window fuse turns on but no sound i connected the blue and white to th 12volts still nothing tryed the antena to the blue and white nothing i see it moving on my screen but no sound hooked the stock radio up worked fine any help
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial no bose and i cant seem to find the amp there 2 thing on the trunk one security and the other thing says LG but dosent look like a amp when i look it up
@@opdanky236 since it’s not the Bose system, you don’t have a factory amp. The whole system is just the stereo, which is good; you only need to connect power to the stereo. Since the stereo has power, not sure why there is not any sound. What stereo are you using?
@@rodneyhendricks2412 I agree that there should only be one yellow wire. That is not right and is confusing indeed. It sounds like the wrong harness. I recommend calling SCOSCHE customer service directly. I have talked to them in the past, and they are great. They will help you sort it out.
Unfortunately, I’m not sure. DIN is a standard size, and they’re all interchangeable between all brands. Maybe you need to use a different bezel or something in the kit.
I believe you need this harness kit to work with the factory Bose amplifier. I recommend calling the manufacturer to verify this is correct for your specific vehicle. amzn.to/42zJ5c8 www.crutchfield.com/p_120GMOS04/Metra-GMOS-04-Wiring-Interface.html?cnxclid=16796236390059893953210090301008005
You must have the power cable connected to a fuse that always has power Get a current tester and see which fuse turns on with the key off or which one doesn't, if it doesn't turn on with the key off, try the key in accessories if it turns on ready, connect it.
Did this and it started blowing out my fan fuse car started overheating I urge anybody watching this don’t listen to this dud the red wire does NOT go in the window fuse at all whatsoever
Sorry to hear that. Thanks for sharing. The fan is on a separate fuse, unrelated to the power window fuse, so I’m not sure what is going on in your vehicle. You may have a bad fan motor drawing too many amps or a bare wire grounding out and drawing too many amps. Something on the fan circuit is drawing excessive amps and blowing the fan circuit fuse.
