Top 5 Problems Chevy Impala Sedan 9th Generation 2006-16 

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The air vent actuator is another part that goes out a lot in this car too

I’ve owned two of these , and still have a low mileage 2013 LTZ. I think you forgot about those damn blend door actuators. Lol

2009 impala with 217,000 miles still runs like a champ, good cars if you maintain them well

The absolute two primary "common problems" on this car are Air blend door actuators AND the Gas pedal sensor. These should be recalled. These issues cover 06-16. The actuators actually predate this platform and go all the way back to the 00 to 05 versions of the Impala. IIRC called the W body. Again, air blend door actuators - buy the entire set. When one goes, another will a few months later if not sooner. Replace them as a set. Otherwise, your mental state will absolutely suffer. As the error produces incessant clicks as the blend door actuators try to return to home. And it does this at every opportunity. Even with no key in ignition. Pop the trunk? Yup, you sent power through the system. It'll bitch at you. Unlocked the doors but didn't put key in ignition? Yup, more clicking!!! (GM decided to use plastic instead of metal gears in the assemblies.) Plus the job is hard enough depending on which one is broken, that you are going to spend a day on this unless you have the perfect set of tools and are a contortionist. So just replace them all and be done with it. The passenger area has a total of FOUR. I'm not sure on the driver side. As I haven't had any issues with it. But trust me, replace all 4 on the passenger side AT ONCE, or don't do the job. As you'll curse for 3 out of 4 of em. So might as well just curse the job once. And if you take it to a dealer, you are looking at $200+ in labor/parts for each one. Where as you can pay $120 through rockauto, OEM, and absorb labor cost. RU-vid is your friend. RU-vid is your friend. RU-vid is your friend. Did I say youtube is your friend yet? RU-vid IS YOUR FRIEND! Do not pay a dealer, or independent mechanic. You need to learn to replace these on your own if you are going to own this platform. As they'll break multiple times during ownership. My 2011 only has 63k. I bought it at 42k. I've replaced two so far. YOU WILL replace these multiple times. Gas pedal sensor - again EXTREMELY common should absolutely be a recall. These two parts should always have replacements they are so common. Take an income tax return, buy 8 of the actuators, replace 4 in the vehicle, keep 4 as backup, and buy the gas pedal sensor. Keep it in the car. It's two bolts to replace it when it goes bad. Will absolutely save you from limping the car to a shop or being effectively stranded. Hardest part of the gas pedal replacement is the connector to it. The bolts are easy to access and will zip right out with an impact. You just need the socket (I think it's a 10mm, 13mm, or 15mm. A standard GM facet.) and an extension. Plus the "tool" itself. Again, I can't stress enough, once you know how to unhook the connector to the pedal, the job is easy as hell. Two bolts. Easily accessible, and impact makes short work of them. KEEP A SPARE IN THE TRUNK! These two parts are as common to replace on these vehicles as an oil change. Keep spares at all times. Replace one? Restock your backups. Keep tools in the trunk for the gas pedal sensor. Otherwise, pay a shop. Your choice. Ask me how I know...Yes...I own the 2011 Impala LT (Flex with 3.5l) I also own a 2005 chevy impala, with the 3800 series II. I know these vehicles inside and out. Both cars have spare actuators in the glove box. The 2011 has a spare gas pedal in the trunk. Both vehicles have tools in the trunk. (A "decent" craftsmen 100+ piece aio toolset, fluids, jack, and jack stands. Plus quite a bit of other tools.) You won't see me on the side of the road for long. I've had shit break on these cars from engine sensors (MAP, MAF, oil pressure sensor, coolant level sensor) all the way down to a fucking C clamp that clamped a hard oil line to the oil filter housing. Talking 30 of these costs like $5. My advice? You own a GM vehicle 16 back to 00. Be mechanically inclined. Keep your tools in the trunk. Otherwise, get used to uber. From a 42k car to a 200k car, GM doesn't care. They are still money pits. Another problem I've heard about on the 2011 (4t65e transmission which is also in the 2000 to 2005) is shift solenoids. Honestly, the 4t65e transmission is absolute garbage. But if you own these cars, you can't exactly decide to ditch a transmission. So my advice? Any evidence of a hard shift, or "slippage" and trust me, you'll absolutely feel it and know what I mean, replace the solenoids. $300+ for the set, and a weekend of your own labor. Give or take depending on your ability. Don't take it to the shop unless the tool purchases outweigh shop cost. There's plenty of vids on youtube. Even people who know nothing of cars, can do it. PS: Welcome to GM ownership. Buy an oldschool LS based platform from GM. If you can't afford them, BUY A HONDA/TOYOTA. Any year. Screw anything other than a Camaro, Firebird, or Corvette from GM. (LS based platforms.) GM, is absolute garbage. Enough said. BESIDES their LS platforms. And this is coming from someone who LOVES GM. I'll never purchase another car from them, or on the used market unless it has an LS in it. They made amazing engines, shitty cars. Short blocks, big blocks, 3800 series II/III, LS. But cars? HA!!!! Camaro, Firebird, Corvette.

Good list! My 2012 LTZ has about 195K, original engine and transmission. I’ve had to replace the purge valve solenoid and power steering pump. I was surprised the infamous blend door actuators weren’t on the list lol.

I'm surprised this one wasn't mentioned: I've known a few people who have owned this car and they all ended up having the same issue with a persistent ticking noise coming from under the dash on the passenger side when they turn the car off. Turns out it's related to the HVAC system having a badly designed actuator that fails shockingly frequently and isn't (or at least wasn't for them) covered under a recall. And it's a monumental pain (cost and time) to replace.

I have a 09 3.5 LT and I was looking for a vacation car and it is a very comfortable vehicle for traveling in. So far it has had all three ventilator actuators replaced by me, a battery, I bought it in 2012 it had only 60k it now has 145k and I must say I am impressed with the quality and reliability of the car, it’s a daily driver and I do all my maintenance on it, I don’t care what car you have if you don’t do at least the minimum maintenance sooner or later it will catch up with you. I did install a transmission cooler on it for peace of mind. Also rust has not been an issue. I am happy with it

Another very common issue is a bad solenoid in the transmissions that causes a lag followed by a kick when shifting from 1st to 2nd. It requires partial transmission disassembly and typically costs around $1000 at a dealer or trans shop.

I've owned two 9th gen. A 2007 LT 3.5 with quite a lot of miles, which I replaced for a very low mile 2013 LT with the (very fun) 3.6 LFX. Honestly? I know these cars very well and although they are not the best car when it comes to reliability, there are far worst cars out there. Things that will break are usually smaller interior parts and other annoying yet not essential parts. Things to take in mind: The 9th gen come with 4 different engines and 2 very different transmissions, one of which has at least two variants. All of these have their unique pros and cons: Pushrod V6's and V8: These come in 3.5 and 3.9 variants, with 215 and 242 HP respectively for the V6's and a 5.3 with 300HP for the V8. These engines are quite solid, smooth and at least with my personal experience with the 3.5 I had zero issues way past 100,000 miles. Although they are know for throttle body issues and even head gasket failures (V6's). So be aware. The water pump issue is with these engines in particular (V6's). I had mine fail at 95,000 miles. I was lucky to notice some bubbly noises behind the dashboard which were the actual coolant leaking and bring air into the system. I never had overheating issues thankfully. The "Limp mode" or "reduced power" issue is also unique to the two pushrod V6 Impalas (3.5 and 3.9). It may also appear in the 5.3 V8 Impala, and it is not only cause by the pedal, but also the throttle body. Be also very careful with the 3.5, 3.9 and 5.3 Impalas. They have a very fragile 4-speed transmission. In the 3.5 it will most likely last through the life of the car, as this transaxle won't have to put up with much torque (if driven gently and well maintained). The 3.9 however, will stress the transmission a lot more, so make sure you have it checked before you get a 3.9. And the 5.3, just get away from it unless you know the transmission has been replaced before buying it. That transmission, even with it's "heavy duty" variant found in the Police version 3.9 and the 5.3, is not meant to handle more than the 3.5's lower power and torque figures. Also, if getting one with the floor mounted shifter, be aware that the linkage on these tends to snap, leaving you pretty much stranded. Always go to a complete stop, put it in park and without releasing the brake, apply the parking brake. That will leave the transmission with zero load on the pin, making it super easy on the shifter cable when pulling it out of park. One last thing: Be aware of the ignition switch in the older Impalas with the pushrod V6's and the V8. It's prone to failure, switching the car off while driving, or causing shorts in the electrical system. And last, the DOHC 3.6 V6 GDi: This engine is found in the last two years of the civilian Impala 9th gen. It's also the same V6 found in the new Impala. It is one heck of an engine, making 306HP (just a tad bit more than the V8). If you want the most power on a relatively cheap car with lower millage, this is probably the best bang for buck. 3.6 Impalas are quick, have good gas millage, and don't have the problems than the older Pushrod V6's. They also have a newer 6-speed transmission which is pretty much unbreakable, apart from being a bit sluggish and sometimes sensitive to weather. But the 3.6 Impalas come with their own set of issues. Most importantly, these are Direct Injection engines, with Variable Valve timing and Dual overhead cams. You can't throw any oil in them like in a good-old pushrod. It has to be a specific oil (5w30) which is thin. This means they can consume oil. So expect to do oil changes more often. They also don't like regular fuel. As in any high compression engine, you gotta go with 91 octane or more, or else you'll have pre-ignition issues. Also, as any GDi, they build up carbon, which further worsens the knocking problem. So have them carbon cleaned if they are in the higher millage range. Other than that, I found my 3.6 to be much more dependable than my old 3.5. Other annoying common problems with all 9th gen that EVERY owner has had to deal with: Water in Fuel codes (fixed by changing the gas cap, cleaning fuel system and topping off tank during harsh weather to avoid condensation). TPM not reading correctly. Stabilitrack issues with Traction Control going off at random, usually when turning the car either left or right. Noticed by a strong pulse in the pedal box area and the car slowing down on its own (caused by a Speed Sensor harness breaking due to poor materials. $20 part. Expect to replace this once every one or two years). And the ever annoying nightmare that are the climate control actuators. these will produce that well-known horrible taping noise behind the dashboard. The three of them can be replaced on your own (there are tutorials everywhere) in between 20 minutes to an hour and they cost about $40 each. Dealership will charge you up to $600 for just one. There! I hope this helps if someone is interested in buying one of these cars. They are not great, but far from the worst. You get an elegant, in some cases, very powerful sedan at a very good millage/price range. Take care of your Impala though! They are not Toyotas.

LOL. I was expecting the blend door and and mode select actuators to be on the list, as well as the 4T65E transmission (‘06-‘11). But it’s a great car, had mine 10 years no problem (‘10 w/ 120,000 miles)

I've been pretty lucky with my 2007. The only issue I've had was when I wen out of the country for business for three months in 2015 and my wife let it sit instead the entire time instead driving it occasionally and the power steering wires where chewed threw and a nest was built. Other than that I'm still driving it with over 220k with nothing but tires and brakes.

I have a 2014 Limited (holdback) and the only problem I have had so far has been the blower motor resistor. For some reason it keeps going bad, and I was told it is a common problem. My car has 183000 on it now and to this point has by far been the most solid car I’ve ever owned. It still runs and drives like a new car.

Purge Valve is also P0442. A lot of times you will know it’s bad after fueling up the car. It will struggle to start. Great video

The day this video came out, I had just had the evap purge solenoid replaced on my 2015 Impala LTZ as it was bad. I had replaced the gas cap prior to taking it in to my mechanic because they said one of the cheapest things to try for a PO455 code was to replace the gas cap. A few days after the evap purge solenoid was replaced the engine light came on again. I took it back in and they did a smoke test and the gas cap was the culprit. They bought another gas cap from NAPA, (where I got my cap), and it didn't seal either. They ended up getting a gas cap from the Chevy dealer and it sealed perfectly and the problem was solved. I don't know if my local NAPA store got some bad gas caps but I've been very happy with all my purchases from them in the past. The mechanic said the napa gas cap didn't seal which was odd since my receipt specifically stated that it was for a 2015 Chevrolet Impala. i am just letting you know what happened in case you also have the same experience. I am not complaining about napa and will continue to shop there.

I've had my 2012 Impala for 7 years and never really had any of these problems other than the blend door actuator

I guess I'm just a lucky guy that got good 1 it's a 07 I'm the second owner 3.9 I bought it at 100,000 miles had it for years and it has 220,000 miles now no problems changed the alternator once service regularly been all over the country in it lol glad I didn't have to deal with those issues lol

For the accelerator pedal I cleaned the connector with electronic cleaner connect it right back and erase the code with my obd2 scanner. No more reduced power! Saved me 100 dollars for a brand new one.

So happy you guys finally made a video on my car 😂

I’m still driving my first car ever! A 2009 Chevy Impala LT. I bought It in February of 2014. I’ve put 100,000+ miles on it and it had 60,000 off the lot! I LOVE THIS CAR! CHEVY FOREVER!

hot engine ac off warning is a common problem. Sometimes it's the temp sensor, sometimes it's the thermostat. if you take it to a shop watch they don't start the parts cannon. Some shops just replace both and don't try to find the bad part

All these problems and more.. Love my 2011 LTZ, hate the problems!! No car payments, but as soon as it dies completely, I'm done with Chevys...

I've owned my 2011 Impala for about 3 years now and only things that have failed so far is the Oil cooler and a couple heater hoses. Heater hoses just went out to rust (I live in Canada rust spreads like the plague up here) and if you're wondering why the hell mine has an oil cooler it's because it has the 3.9L Police engine. PRO TIPS BY THE WAY. IF YOU HAVE A 9C3 POLICE PACKAGE IMPALA AND THE OIL COOLER FAILS. DO NOT GET SCAMMED. There is an adapter that routes the oil through the cooler underneath the oil filter. You can just unscrew the oil filter, take the adapter off, and take the oil cooler out and convert it back to civilian spec by just screwing the oil filter back in. A local auto shop wanted 4750$ to replace that oil cooler because they no longer manufacture them. Took it to another shop, he found the adapter and fixed the issue for 50 bucks. Since the car is decommissioned you're not going to be idling it all day and wont need the oil cooler anyways.

The best years for these generation impala was the 2012 and 2013. The 6 speed auto with the 3.6 has proven to be quite reliable i own a 2012 with 176k i put about 1k miles a week. Nothing but routine maintenance

Bought a used 2008, there was so much wrong with it. Leaking coolant, engine mounts destroyed, tie rods, assembly hubs, etc. It’s the owners who were careless about it. But if you take care of it or bring it back to life, it’s an ok car. It’s just the anxiety of ‘what’s the next repair?’ Smh

Thank you so much for this video, It is very informative. I love the way you explain what the problem could be and what needs to be done to fix it while showing pictures of what you are talking about, it helps everything make sense. I can honestly say I learned so much from this short video and with me being a woman it is great to have this knowledge when taking a car for repairs at the local auto repair shop. Again many, many thanks !!

Have a 2011 impala with 135k, great car, hasn’t given me any issues other then the common ac blend door actuator and coolant temperature sensor which is minor. Been a super reliable vehicle.

These are mainly issues with the 2006-2013 models... The 2014-2016 Version is a Fleet Production and had all upgraded parts comparable to the 10th generation that it overlapped.

The impalas first problem is GM.

Great list guys. I've had many of these issues, most expensive has been power steering leak, replaced pump and rack. It's better but still not 100% , still have to add fluid if steering pump whining, even tho dipstick shows full. Also replaced oil pressure sensor and pedal position sensor. Also getting "Service Stabilitrak" error message on dash, which I just ignore. Also the rear window defroster wire burns out at the fuse box located at the passenger side kick panel.

290,000 km on my 2010 3.5. Regular maintenance, great performance and gas mileage.

So I bought a 2007 Chevy Impala lt. 3.5 L. I know I overpaid for it but whatever, they were offering it for 2200, I talked down to 1800, It had approximately 160,000 mi. Two and a half years later, it currently has a 198,661 mi. I have spent close to about $7,000-%8000 on this car. Let's start the fun, I have a replaced rack and pinion, or power steering rack, power steering pump, both high and low pressure power steer lines. Radiator, 2 sets of spark plugs, spark plug wires, sway bar end links (twice), sway bar bushings, front struts twice, I bought crappy Detroit Axle the first time never again, learned my lesson. Back struts, all four brake calipers, brake pads rotors ( twice), all four wheel bearings, inner and Outer tie rods ( pass side twice), both front lower control arms, both transmission lines. The clock spring in the steering wheel. Both O2 sensors, ignition coil pack, map sensor, crank sensor, the flex pipe from the manifold to the cat, back sway bar links or stabilizer end-links. 1 fuel injector, ( just cleaned other 5), 5 fuel injector o- rings ( 2 o-rings for each injector, intake plenum gasket, oil filer house, and gasket ( I think that's what its called), complete transmission fluid replacement with transmission pan filter, battery, ( was everstart max and was 5½ years old) the two front motor mounts that are pretty much right there as soon as you open the Hood, the side engin/transmission mount honestly think that's it, but could be wrong.

Great video. Some other common issues that plaque those vehicles and chevys around those early years are blend door actuators failing and the Intermediate steering shaft.

Loved my 9th gen impala, upgraded to the 10th gen but that cursed ac blend door had me ready to lose it. Such a nuisance to replace with big hands.

I bought mine used with 80000 miles on it almost a decade ago and it is still the best car I've ever owned, I guess "Made in Canada" means quality❤

2015 Impala Limited LT: Wire strands break inside the insulation at the wheel sensor harness. Throws out a traction control and ABS warning. Dealer couldn't find it and convinced me to change the hub & sensor assembly for $400. Problem returned two days later and was told by dealer it was the transmission and would cost $5000 to replace. Said it was just a coincidence it happened at the same time. Diagnosed the problem myself after watching youtoube and showed this to the service manager. He said their was no service bulletin, and they don't use info from "the internet" . Bought the OEM GM replacement harness on Amazon for $38 and fixed the problem. The fact it's in stock and cheap should be a hint this is a popular part. Also, replaced steering rack, water pump, and radiator. Had the dealer changed the serpentine belt but they didn't change the pulley and tensioner which caused a later failure. Motor & transmission mounts and torque strut replaced. Shocks, Struts, and cracked strut mounts replaced. Alternator replaced. All three blend door actuators replaced. Connector at blower motor resistor is a problem. Replacement pigtail is junk and failed again - had to make my own. Car has 167,000 hard miles on beat up roads, so I expect much of this wear. Just replaced the plugs which amazingly were working fine. Have been consistent on transmission and engine oil changes. Engine (V6) feels like it has a much torque as new. Trans shifts a little hard but no slipping noted. Overall quite happy with this car and would buy again. Bought it used from Enterprise car rental in 2017 with 26K miles for $13K.

This was helpful I have a 2013 impala as my first car so I will have to keep this video in mind

My 2015 Impala limited has been very good to me. The only problem I’ve had is the ABS Wire Harness. Which a lot of mechanics get it confused with the wheel bearing or wheel speed sensor. The symptoms would be the Abs light, traction and service stabilitrak coming on at the same time. And you’ll hear a groaning/grinding noise while making sharp turns. Mostly left turns for me. It’s a real pain, gonna have to take my car to the shop later.

I watched this video like 10 times. I have a Chevy Impala 2012. Now I do delivery orders for a living. What can I do? To keep up with the essentials.. (I really enjoy driving.) Can we connect? I'm always out and about. I prefer to live life, not stuck in a building. I enjoy the consistency of delivering orders. 😅 ❤

Y’all forgot to mention the transmission, and ac blend door actuators

The ABS cable behind the front wheels causing Traction control, ABS and Brake light to come on at the same time

Yep. Had to do the power steering pump and steering rack. Still love this car. HVAC actuators are shooting at me too 🤣

I have a 2011 LT this is a good car when it wants to be! I've had this car for seven years. Its in the shop right now. Fixing the blower motor for the third time. This is the 2nd time this year. My horn hasn't worked in years. They've put 2 new horns in and it still doesn't work. I also got the actuators fixed so many times. The gas pedal as well. Its a good car when it wants to be a good car.

And front wheel bearings, and transmission solenoids!

That front sway bar needs new bushings.. Also common on 9th gen front after 100k. Good list, very accurate. Thanks.

Blend door actuators, coolant temp sensor, throttle body, accel pedal, oil leaks from valve covers and oil pan, and 1st gear jerk in transmission. Biggest issue is really the owners beating the piss out of them

I have a 2013 with the 3.6, the only problem I had was with the flex fuel sensor. I did some research and found out it was covered under a recall and the Chevy dealer fixed it for free!

top 5 Transmission, evap, rear window(wire burns out--checked 6 at the junk yard and they had same issue), oil pressure sensor, actuator, these cars have 3 actuators, and they go out at different times. shop/ dealer cost about 100.00 each repair, do it yourself about 25 dollars each repair. I am no mechanic, but i owned a 07 SS for about 12 years and 285,000 miles. My brother has it now and still driving.

Nice video, like how you are to the point, factual and you don’t ramble. Nice work background music too instead of deafening silence

The rear defroster likes to burn out at the connection at the passenger side kick panel.

I have been considering this gem Impala, I own a 32 year old Chevy truck and I've been having to commute to work on my wife's explorer because it's way better on gas but the 3.5 Impala looks like a very solid commuter car, all of the issues I've seen them have aren't terrible and I see them all of the time with over 300,000 miles still going.

My 2008 LTZ now has 175,000 miles on it. I am the original owner and took good care of it. Actuator doors are the most annoying to replace and go frequently. One door is a bear to replace and the door on the passenger side is a snap. Ill drive it until it doesn’t roll on its own. Im retired and on a fixed income. I fear my driving days are coming to an end and cannot imagine life without the freedom a car provides. Still, imtake life one day at a time.

The 06-16 Impala came with 4 different motors during its run. 3.5, 3.6, 3.9 and 5.3. For the EVAP purge problem, you should make sure to inform the viewers which motor has this issue as the lesser informed will not be able to spot the difference between the 4 different motors as the 3.5 and 3.9 are a much different V6 than the 3.6 and likewise the 5.3.

Thanks. I would add HVAC blend motors to that list. They only last about 50k miles before the plastic gears start failing, and they make a loud clicking noise in the cabin.

All kinds of problems with 09 Impala's. Door actuators, tire pressure sensors. Door lock solenoids. The car is a real pain in the ass.

i have a 12 LS 6 seater and only issue ive had *knock on wood* was the alternator. bought it 2yrs ago with 42k now its at 80k I

Here's #6. The recirc motor in the HVAC box. The gears break when the baffles get stuck in freezing weather.

What about the service stailbili track and wheel bearings

2014 Impala Limited. Our rack and pinion is leaking as you stated. Nothing leaking out the ground, but just behind the boot.

I’m going through the evap issue now. I replaced the gas cap and reset the battery. I want to see if the engine light comes back on after about 100 miles. So far so good. 💯👍🏾

Yup I have a 2011 impala I changed the accelerator pedal easy fix and the oil pressure sensor as well.

Ive changed my front hubs twice in 6 years.

My dad just bought a ‘06 SS and yeah that blend door actuator seen better days. He loves it and I love my ‘03 LS with the 3.8 in it that I got from him when he got the SS

My Chevy Impala has a Gas pedal issues, like sensor, air intake, fuel injection. I had that car almost 8 years

Blend door actuators on the passenger side is going to tick like a bomb eventually. Ive changed them twice. I said forget it.

Been waiting on this video for so long.. thanks for the video

Me and my wife both have one. They ride and drive good. Good touring vehicles. 3.9 have plenty power.

Thanks! I am literally going to test drive an 09 tomorrow!

Damn Impalas! My purge solenoid failed after 130K miles! First part I had to change on the car. Just brakes and tires and oil changes.

dont forget about issues with the transmission , i have heard about that , and i have the same problem going on , impala are excellent riding , and are excellent gas mileage .

I love these 2006-2016 Impalas i had like 3 of these a 2006 LTZ a 2008 LS & a 2012 LT I really want a 2009 SS with a sunroof i have a few plans for one

Transmission was a big issue I’ve repaired many of these transmissions … the steering rack and pinion and power steering pump was another issue with these cars

I have a 2006 impala and have never had any of these issues...the odd thing is this video doesn't touch on one of the biggest problems with this gen of impala and that's a slipping transmission or erratic shifting transmission. That is by far the biggest issue I've had with the car since i bought it and is still going on today...it started to happen around 40,000 miles and is still going on. Another issue is the rear window defrost not working because of a wire burn through by the right kick panel (passenger side kick panel). Also clicking inside the dash due to an hvac actuator going bad...all of these issues are common on this gen impala...

Power seat motor. Window regulators, BLEND door actuators, Radiator cap. Knock sensor. This entire car seems to be made of plastic. Just look at it wrong and something will break. Excellent video!

I went through 4/5 power steering pumps (Warranty Defects) and a rack...along with two window regulators (Driver side)...but no problems since :) 110k and running strong #3.5

Cant forget about those abs harness

I had an 07’ LTZ I had a huge leak, I was going through a quart of oil every time I drove lol it was a fun car but too many issues...sold it to copart

In 18 months my 2011’s power steering pump went out twice, rack had to be replaced and also ball joints. Lemon.

Issues I have faced with 2010 Chevy Impala LT: HVAC actuators, accelerator pedal sensor, window motor replacement, door lock solenoid actuator, corroded battery cables with terminals, corroding heater tube pipe (the one on the driver's side, not the front).

My dads 07 Impala has had 3 of these problems.

The main problems that I've experienced that weren't mentioned are: - Coolant Temp Sensor (Warning - "Engine Hot, Turn Off A/C") - Oil Pressure Sensor (Warning - "Oil Pressure Low, Turn Off Engine") - Air Vent Actuators (Both - Clicking Sound) - Throttle Body Position Sensor (RPM fluctuation while accelerating)

The trans is a big problem. A ZZR Performance shift kit actually fixes the issue. 250k and thats all I've had to do to it.

Good motors bad transmissions. Mine started going at about 70k miles. Still under warranty, it was an intermittent issue at that time. It would slip at a stop sign and slam into gear when it would catch. Found out later after the warranty was done that it was so common that GM allowed dealerships to cover them under a longer warranty period. By the time mine got bad enough to where they would be sure to find it I was well past of course. I changed the transmission and so far it's been good since.

What about the sway bar? Its a hollow bar and breaks at the ends.

I’ve had my impala 2 years and got it with 150000km and changed the oil once and no other issues else it’s such a good car and has 215 hp which makes me cream

My 2016 Impala Limited Police 9C3 rpm’s dance up and down on a cold start and it feels sluggish when in reverse, especially when wanting to give power quickly to back up. Transmission is exceptional.

I bought a 2012 lt and had two actuators go bad and a wheel hub problem but I got good deals so it wasn't bad compared to what it could be.

U forgot the transmission an the throttle body postion sensor head gasket if they use dexcool its more then that i had one the 9th gen

Thanks for the video! I just bought an 06 LTZ

I have a 07 impala ls 250k miles still strong and still love it. Given up on passenger accuater

I have a 2012 impala and the evaporator sensor went bad and I replaced it myself. Its easy to do. It doesn't affect anything but the car won't pass the emissions test without it working right.

Had an 06 that leaked from manifold gasket and oil got all over the starter which caused it to die. Also developed transmission shuddering when starting from stop. It did last until I got rid of it at 207xxx but I only had it for 20k miles.

Chevy Impala Problem (Owner of 3.9L V6 9C1 09 Impala) Door Lock Actuators - DIY eBay universal lock actuator Rear Defrost Non Functional- Bypass With new wire in passenger side foot fuse box . Usally burnt out. Cut and wire together. Ac actuator that causes loud knock in glove box just replace the motor Sway bars are usally broke as well on these cars Tpms is usally garbage so I suggest replacing them Transmission eventually may go out so prep with some sort of repair coverage Pedal sensor eventually so replace Overheating usually it’s the water pump/thermostat and change pulleys if can AC Compressor may also need replacing for no cold air even after you tried a recharge Car runs well on 93 Octane Better to run full synthetic oil and run a coolant flush regularly.

Have seen two 2009 models need transmission repair. The sealed transmission is a pain to service yourself if you need to do anything other then flush fluid. Was figuring that would of ended up in your top five.

A few other common problems is that the wiring for the rear window defroster cant handle the voltage and burns out in the harness, and the oil pressure sensor goes often.

And the catalytic converter goes out easily too. I own an 07, love my car. Has 180k right now

My car is smoking underneath the whole catalytic converter is covered in oil. Replaced the oil filter gasket , oil pan gasket , valve cover gaskets. And it’s still smoking please help my car always smells like burnt and when the car is on I see smoke coming from under the car

Engine Hot AC code off is a common problem on these vehicles also

That gas pedal issue I've had twice both times over almost totaled my car scary stuff but I still won't get rid of my penpen 125000 miles and she's still going strong I have a 2011 impala

The engine problems mentioned in this video are for the 3.6L Engine only available in 2012 Impala. 2006-2-11 had the 3.5L , 3.9L or LS v8. The only issue I had with my 07 3.5L was the tire pressure monitor at $700 for a module I didn't fix. My engine leaked every fluid very lightly and wasn't worth fixing. I sold it at 188k with no other issues. Blend door actuators on my 2012 have been a constant pain. The water pump died at 88k and Chevy would not cover it under drive train? So far my 2012 has been the best car I've owned. I'm at 134k and have spent less than $100! in non maintenance repairs