How to Install Any Harmonic Balancer "With A $2.00 Homemade Tool" 1996 Ford Explorer 4.0L V6 

I'll be ordering those M12/1.50 pitch bolts tomorrow thank you for that information! /K&K

Its funny a retired automotive machinist showed me this method of balancer install twenty years ago. I have not had an issue with a thread going south, but I always make sure that I'm 3/4 the way in the crank thread before any pressure is applied. If a person is really worried about causing thread damage with this method then they should buy the installation tool. /K&K

We called the dealership when we made this video and they it was not TTY and there was no replacements available. /K&K

Yeah I wouldn't recommend reuse of that balancer then. If you can see through the balancer they can become unbalanced or spin as it were. Most balancers are made in a two piece design that once the inner rubber o-ring deteriorates the outer ring can slip a bit and cause a vibration that can wipe out the crank bearings. I like the 4.0L Ford balance but its still a two piece design that is subject to failure due to normal wear and tear. Dorman does make a replacement balancer for this engine. /K&K

It was a 12mm bolt and was 8 inches long. The longer the bolt the better as it will have more threads to make sure you have 3/4 the thread inserted in the crank before force is a applied. /K&K

Sometimes the belt will have enough holding power to remove the bolt, but other wise to be able to remove the bolt you need to hit hard and fast. /K&K

To my knowledge the bolt should be reusable. /K&K

Keith & Kevin's Repair & Restorations - Thanks! Adding an extra 90 or 100 degrees after a specified torque setting, in order to lock the bolt down, is usually a hallmark of Torque-to-Yield Bolts (TYBs). The following is a link to an article that discusses the differences between regular engine bolts and TYBs - www.hemmings.com/blog/article/the-lost-art-of-bolts-fasteners/ I am not a pro mechanic, but I have learned the hard way to determine the precise torque specs for what I'm working on, and whether or not a TYB is required by using one or more of the following: a local or online parts store; either a factory parts website or printed/electronic shop manual (if available), factory TSBs on the internet, a free online manual though the public library, a Haynes-type manual(borrow from a public library or buy through Amazon or Barnes & Noble), online through a paid subscription to Alldata or Mitchell's, or by using an on-line forum whose members know about the vehicle/motor type. Some car makers let you buy a limited block of on-line time to use their official service resources to verify the latest specs, parts numbers, and procedures that apply to the vehicle you're working on. Thanks again for making this video.

Yes, Ford recommends replacing the bolt. It's stretched by installation torque.

Yup the customer couldn't afford a new one, but we did tell him about it. /K&K

You going need some smaller drill bits to start the Extractor hole and then you need a set of "EZ Outs" Screw bit Extractor with varies sizes to remove the broken bolt from that crankshaft if that head snapped off. Link below shows the types of "EZ Outs" at Lowe's you will need to get. This is not an easy process but we have found by drilling the broken bolt dead center and increase the drill bit size as needed till you can fit the smallest "EZ Out" in first works best. You may need to increase the size of the extractor bit till the bolt reverse out. Start with the smallest extractor bit first and work up till the bolt come back out. Also do not drill past or into the crankshaft! That crankshaft bolt hole is deep but better to leave wiggle room as they say then drill into that crankshaft. Drill the starter hole into the broken bolt about the 1/2 to 3/4 the length of the size "EZ Out" you plan to use first and no more then needed! Use a small piece of tape on the bit to set a stop point if needed. www.lowes.com/pd/KD-Tools-4-Piece-Spiral-Fluted-Screw-Extractor-Set/4731419?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA_ONLY-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-SosAtg-PowerTools-_-4731419:KD_Tools&CAWELAID=&kpid=4731419&CAGPSPN=pla&k_clickID=bad99ad5-c25b-467a-92dd-b2b929535b24&gclid=CjwKCAjwq57cBRBYEiwAdpx0vbwQYnH0nWtOX7_2rMkPGQXUMiwICO93FLHspEUgJ8tJ1E5XI2H-6hoCuwcQAvD_BwE As far as the replacement bolt goes I would suggest going to the Junkyard, Dealership, or Ebay. Ford was not friendly to us when it comes to the balancer removal or bolt exaction. Take your time and you will get the broken bolt out. I hope this information will get you back on the road again soon. /K&K

Thanks a lot !! I go start in the morning.. I hope work for me thanks for u help

We do them all the time. Tools needed: Beside a socket big enough to pound the new seal on the timing cover its business as usual. Its simple to do with a small twist, this setup also use a dust seal (Looks like a fan) that spins with the balancer. Don't over torque the balance and jam the dust shield seal into the crank timing cover oil seal, there must be some end gap for heat expansion. We did not use a special tools on this seal setup. Ford was nice to us on seal service for the 4.0L V6. /K&K

Ok so the timing cover aligner set is not needed correct?? Should I buy a new dust cover seal? What size big socket do I need? How far does the crank seal need to go in? Is it hard to get everything lined up? Thanks for the help I really appreciate it.

Not sure what a timing cover aligner is, we don't use them because the engine already has aligning pins for the timing cover. As far as the timing cover crank oil seal I believed we use either a 3/4, 7/8 socket to drive the new seal in. The crankshaft oil seal does sit below the face of the timing cover. The dust shield that goes on the balancer, we will leave a couple of thousands end gap in between the dust shield and timing cover oil seal. Easiest way to set gap is simply to leave a small gap. In this order, remove and clean the timing cover, remove old oil seal and install new crank oil seal on the timing cover, bolt on timing cover and torque it to spec, then install the balance and set final gap for the dust shield when the balancer is almost torqued up. Once the balance is almost torqued up "always be checking" the final gap where the dust shield meets the oil seal. You won't be able to see much beside the dust shield. In this case we follow the dust shield in as we do the final torque of the balancer. In this video towards the end you will see the gap we left between dust shield and the timing cover crankshaft oil seal. If you follow the order listed here, you should have very little issue with alignment and fitment issues. /K&K

@@KNKRNR ok thanks for the help I appreciate it. Is it possible to do without taking timing cover off? This is on a ranger/explorer 4.0 ohv correct?

You can leave the timing cover on and try to replace the seal, but it can be rather difficult. Worst case try to remove the oil seal with cover on, if that don't work you can always pull the cover off later if needed. There are different types of seal pullers and seal drivers designed to remove & Install seals with parts in place like (timing covers) at Harbor freight and most auto part store. This was a 4.0L V6 O.H.V. from a May built1996 Explorer 4x4 Eddie Bauer Edition with 204,124 thousand miles on the clock. /K&K

We got lucky at our local ACE Hardware Store had one. They can ordered from the internet if you can't find them at you local ACE hardware. /K&K

Also Lowe's stocks a very good selection of special fasteners.much more so in store than depot..

Tho I would like to know what thread was it.

@@metalmaniaxx it's a 12mm x 1.5 pitch

The bolt itself was 8 inched long. /K&K

We didn't change the harmonic balancer but we did replace the seal. You would replace the balancer is has spun and the ignition timing is incorrect, as this engine is timed by the balancer via a hall effect crank sensor. /K&K

no i didnt change the harmonica balancer .i changed the belt,the belt tensioner,and the belt pulley and the car sounds great now.

Chevy trucks made before 1996 are pretty straight forward to work on for the most part. GM trucks made after 1996 do become more difficult and expensive to work on. /K&K

@@KNKRNR thanks for the reply. Thinking about getting one preferably a 95 model. Still the tbi with the updated interior.

The owner didn't have a lot of cash to work with on this repair, unfortunately we had to reuse the balancer. It should have been replaced when we repaired his timing cover leak. /K&K

Check out the link below for easy removal. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_8yjWElx3c0.html /K&K

The 4.0L OHV is a great engine, but does have minor issues to work through like most brands often do. Its a little under powered but I have seen many make it 300,000 miles. Once the cooling system has a major problem (204,000 Miles) like this one did, you do run the risk of the transmission (470RW) losing first gear and codes PO730, PO731, PO733, PO734 become present. Loss of first gear or incorrect gear ration obtained. This problem is cause the ATF fluid not being cooled in an empty radiator and the transmission quickly overheats and hard parts brake. Keep the cooling system in good shape do normal maintenance and they can run for a very-very long time. /K&K

It is a skookum engine. The pushrod versions are a bit better, with the difference being the timing chain issues of the overhead cam version. It really sucks to have to deal with those timing chains since the engine *has* to come out, and by service procedure, one cylinder head needs to come off to remove a chain guide on the front of the engine, but aside from that, the engines don't have any problems. Valves don't go to pot, pistons don't break, they don't consume lots of oil, heads and blocks don't crack, head gaskets aren't much of a problem. You *can* get that timing chain guide replaced without head removal, but you have to be clever. I just got done with a timing chain job a couple of months ago. It went 208,xxx miles since 2006 (2005 model year) with *ZERO* engine repairs. A belt and spark plugs were the only things ever done to it engine-wise. Literally, *ZERO* repairs other than the chains. The chain repair was expensive and enough to condemn the rest of an otherwise good-shape vehicle, but I fixed it and its back on the road again.

Except where do you find threaded rods for sale? I just went to 5 stores to finally find a long m12x1.5. Then it dawned on me there was a tool kit probably...

I “borrowed” one from AutoZone.

Its gonna cost alot more if you cross thread the crank hold or strip the ONLY OEM bolt u have ?...

We live in a very small town and that bolt I used was the only threaded bolt ACE hardware had that would fit the crank thread. If I could have found a fully threaded bolt instead I would have used it. Its much safer to keep the force on the outside of the balancer then rely on crank threads alone. I made sure I was 3/4 the way in with 13 turns of the grade 8 bolt before any force was applied to the crank treads, I stated that a few times in the video. Some people will disagree with this method, but it has worked well for me for over 20 years. /K&K

We did check with Pro demand. I did exactly what pro demand said to do. 37 lbs Ft Lbs with a 45 degree turn is correct. That bolt did not have 105 lb of torque on it! /K&K ~

@@KNKRNR says 105-130ft-lbs in the manual

HAHAHA That ring has saved my finger from being crushed a few different times over that last 20 years. In fact I had the ring rebuilt with a solid white gold band for more protection. The look on the jewelers face was priceless when I asked "for a ring that could take on a 60lbs starter and not bend."

Keith & Kevin's Repair & Restorations did you have any problem with your crankshaft spinning while tighning?

Please give an example. Every balancer I have ever pulled off all have a crankbolt thus have threads. I'm sure there are very rare exceptions out there but I don't work on exotic engines. /K&K

If somebody is worried about their crank threads then they should buy the tool as needed. We live in a small town and nobody had the installer tool needed for this job which is why we used this homemade $2.00 tool instead. /K&K

@@KNKRNR the tool is dirt dirt cheap. Double sided 30$. Not like the 500 the video claimed

Trade em both in for a Mopar

chevy is JUNK, you have to remove the ENTIRE steering system to do this job on Corvettes and other cars.

The removal was 5 minutes or less if you have the right tool and bolts, but the installation was not that does take a bit longer to do. \K&K

Haha really? Wow, I'm staying clear from a Chevy then lol