How To Remove Any Harmonic Balancer "IN 5 MINUTES OR LESS!" 1996 Ford Explorer 4.0L 

If your balancer doesn't have hole drilled into like this one does then yes you will need a puller that has 3 jaws on it. There not too expensive check out the link below, www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25090-Harmonic-Balancer-Mitsubishi/dp/B01AIRR4EY/ref=asc_df_B01AIRR4EY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312142020868&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18230537492162451109&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033784&hvtargid=pla-541521779732&psc=1 /K&K

With electric impacts sometimes you have to use a wobbler / U joint adapter to get the clearance needed to remove stubborn crank bolts. Its common to find a little bit of engine oil on crank treads. A lot of OEM's will use engine oil to set final torque loads on certain bolts during the manufacturing process. I would recommend either anti-seize or engine oil on the crank bolt when you install the balancer. Should the need ever arise that the balancer needs removed you won't have any issue. Glad to hear this video series was able to help. :) /K&K

If you have the correct tools it is a 5 minute job. That harmonic balance bolt without an impact type tool is almost impossible to remove. /K&K

This comment made my day, Thank you! :) /K&K

I was in the same boat! About to push her in a lake or dump some gas on it and call it day! This worked like a charm!

Did you use a temporary crank bolt to push against like in my thumbnail video? The trick here is using a 6-8 inch long but smaller diameter (Grade 8) Shoulder Head as a temporary crank bolt to push against for easy removal. If you use a 3 jaw puller alone without a temporary crank bolt as a push pin it will break the balancer / pulley every time. If you didn't use a push pin crank bolt then try that next time you try to pull balancer off with the 3 jaw puller. Sometimes we will put moderate tension on the 3 jaw puller and lightly strike the harmonic balancer with a hammer during the pull to relief some stress through vibration. If the arms are slipping off use a woodworking C Clamp for a tie to bind two arms together. Finding a replacement shouldn't be to bad but may be somewhat expensive depending on year built. You can buy them new at most auto part stores or find them used on eBay. This balancer is a tough one to remove being they didn't give any holes to use a conventional harmonic balancer puller tool. You would think an engine with a rubber timing belt would have a user friendly balancer. Give the push pin crank bolt method a go just like the thumbnail picture shows and it should come off with ease. /K&K

Thanks for the belpful video and reply. I actually did end up getting it off later on. Took the loaner jaws back to advanced auto and went to auto zone across the street where they lent me a much better set that fit right. Came off in a matter of seconds quite easily. They told me if that dont work cut up 2x4 into wedges and poumd them in behind. Glad I didnt need to do that. And yes I did push against the centerbolt inserted halfway home. I think I can get away with the old balancer with the piece of lip missing. The S-belt doesnt really touch that spot. It's a crappy 20 year old 175K rust bucket I dont want to sink much into. Paid $1200 for it a year ago as a work truck and we don't go very far but I love it because its all mine and its got a manual transmission. Try and find one of those nowadays. Had a similar 92 back in the 90s and this is a trip down memory lane. Did a belt on my 73 Pinto as a kid and on my diesel VW so I know I can do this but I dont do it often enough to get proficient. Again, thanks so much for your help!

Somebody used tap water and antifreeze mix and blew timing cover gasket over the cold winter. To service timing cover assembly you must remove harmonic balancer to remover cover to replace gasket. Chevy, ford, dodge; if you use a lean mix of antifreeze with tap water you will do damage to something. The Ford 4.0L V6 is tough in that after we replaced a few cooing system parts the engine still runs great! 204K.

Lol what? I'm currently re gathering my engine and I need to take this off

The right tools for the job do make all the difference. To be fair we had to run to the hardware store to get bolts so we could pull it off in 5 minutes. /K&K

That's what is great about vehicle repair there are many ways to do the same repair. /K&K

Did you upload this video of the noise? Can you send me a link so I can hear it. This engine its possible to drive the balancer into the front seal dust ring. If the rubber ring becomes weak the balancer outer hub can slip away from the inner hub, not sure if that would make the noise you described. /K&K

Glad to hear that! /K&K

In the video we used grade 5. You can the see the grade 5 bolts bending as designed. I would recommend grade 8 or (10.9+ Metric) or better for a stronger puller setup. Hope that helps thanks for watching!

Greetings from Eastern Washington!!! /K&K

@@KNKRNR my veteran neighbor ♥ s that slick ness he says God bless you

We used a standard 6 inch long 7/16 through bolt and nut as shown in the thumbnail picture. We did not use the threaded holes, instead we used a smaller bolt then the size of the hole to get the job done. Its a little tricky to get the nut behind the balancer and start the through bolt from the front side but other wise after that its business as usual. /K&K

The length of the bolt used was the main reason why we had to use the two sockets as a spacer. We live in a small town and sometimes it's just not possible to find the correct length threaded stock. Over the years we have found that Grade 5 or 8 Shoulder Head bolts are the easiest bolt to adapt for most harmonic balancer pulls. The Lexus does require a special holding tool to remove the crank bolt. The crank bolt has a torque spec of 160-280 Ft lbs depending on year. Here is a link below for the tool you need, but you might be able to rent the holding tool for free at Orelliy's or Autozone. Crankshaft Pulley Holding Tool for removal and re torquing the Balancer/Pulley Crank Bolt www.tylertool.com/sp-tools-64300-toyota-lexus-harmonic-damper-pulley-holder/slyn64300,default,pd.html?ref=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=723&zmap=slyn64300&gclid=Cj0KCQiAieTUBRCaARIsAHeLDCTUWzNBXJ4DeUoZc0xeE3a2e28x9w_tWnKTD03zxzWzHky9iBXkIJUaAjZJEALw_wcB There may be another way to remove the bolt using the starter method and a really long breaker bar. Video Link Below: Lexus rx300 2000 Bolt & Balancer Removal ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-79QTAy0gF1A.html This video uses a long breaker bar and the starter to break the crank bolt loose. This video also shows a quick way to remove balance with the same tool I used. My best tip would be to buy the Crank Pulley holding tool if you plan on keeping the car for 7 years or longer, or use the starter method and long breaker bar to easily remove the crank bolt. /K&K

At least 8 inches long to get through to the Harmonic puller. /K&K

@@KNKRNR i figured it out and finally got mine out of the car. :)

I lube that 30 year old tool twice a year with 3 in 1 oil. If I had to buy a newer tool with that cheap metal they use today I would definitive lube it up before each use. They don't make tools like they use to! /K&K

Is the crank turning when you are trying to remove the bolt? Spray some WD-40 at the crank bolt and let it soak for a while, then try to remove again. Its a normal thread meaning its a lefty lucy to remove and righti tighti to install. Sometimes crank bolts can be a difficult to remove for many reason. Generally when we get a crank bolt that's hung up, we will run the bolt back in and back out gently from the hard spot back in to where its tight but NOT torqued. Do this in and out method a few times and see if the bolt will free itself from its hard spot. I hope its not cross threaded from a previous repair that's a hole different repair entirely. /K&K

Yes, the crank turns, and I have tried everything to stop it from turning, I've sprayed wd-40 on it, and it's still not budging. I'm running out of options.

That balancer MUST remain stationary. The crank bolt will not come out or back in if that balancer moves at all during any part of the removal process or installation process. You can take a vise grip and CAREFULLY bite into the outer edge of the balancer to stop it from moving and proceed on. Second option would be to take the inspection cover off at the transmission and bind up the flywheel with a vise grip or small pry bay. Third option remove the starter and bind flywheel through the starter hole. The pressure build up is caused by the engine rotating backwards which won't hurt although we try to not let the engine turn backwards too many times. I didn't show the crank bolt removal process because we had used the vise grip to bind balancer, but most Ford mechanics would frown upon this practice. Using a vise grip properly to stop the balancer from moving works in most cases rarely do we ever have to bind at the flywheel. Try the vise grip, and if that doesn't work remove the inspection cover at the bell housing / Transmission bind there, or remove the starter and bind there. One of those methods listed should do the trick for you. /K&K

counter clockwise to remove.

i brought a rubber strap wrench to lock the pulley.

The easiest way to remove the Harmonic balancer bolt is with an air impact gun. If you don't have one then the next best way is to bind the balancer up with a vise grip so the balancer does not move during removal or installation. Vise grip is an aggressive tool so bite down as needed but don't over do it! Some people have reported they had to remove the starter or transmission inspection cover to hold the flywheel to remove the harmonic balancer bolt. Give the vise grip a go before using the other method listed here. /K&K

19mm deep socket and a 18'' breaker bar 1/2'' drive, i locked my pulley with a rubber strap wrench from home depot.

You are going need a certain type style of harmonic balancer removal tool that is different then the universal. I found a blog that shows the type you will need to complete the removal process. The pin in the crank hole is the same as to my video, but the tool you need is different. Once you get the right harmonic balancer tool for this job you must keep the engine from spinning during the removal and installation process. Other side note, the crank bolt is NOT reusable and must be replaced each removal. Its a TTY type bolt. Check out the link below for tool type that you need for this job. With the right tools it should be a piece of cake to remove. www.2carpros.com/questions/2007-ford-mustang-harmonic-balancer /K&K

@@KNKRNR Thanks!!

It happens, the first balancer i ever took off got bound up as well many years ago. Once you learn this trick you can removal almost any balancer with ease. /K&K

We used an electric impact gun rated for 250 Ft Lbs to remove the bolt. When you try to use a ratchet wrench the engine tends to move which at that point you will have a hard time getting the main bolt to release. Hit that bolt with an electric impact that bolts comes off with ease. www.homedepot.com/p/SPEEDWAY-110-Volt-1-2-in-Electric-Impact-Wrench-46692/206728246 /K&K

Put your socket on the bolt with a cheater bar, wedge the cheater bar behind something and bump your key to turn the engine over. As your engine turns clockwise. It loosens the bolt that turns counter clockwise

There are press fits for sure. We do them so much in the shop we can get them off quickly. To go back in I used a long 12mm bolt instead of an installer tool. Using a very long 12mm bolt with washers gives you the ability to put balancer back on without a major fight. The link down below is the installation video of this exact balancer. Follow the video guide below and you will have an easy time going back with it. Does take about 20 minutes to do. Installation Video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dBo5MiejYpU.html /K&K

One regret I have with this video for sure was not recording the bolt removal. We used an electric impact rated for 250 ft lbs to remove the bolt of all harmonic balancer jobs we do. Most people do not have an electric impact with that much power for such jobs which was the reason why we didn't record the bolt removal. I agree with you the bolt removal should have been included. In the link below is an example of the tool we used to remove the bolt. This tool hits so hard the engine doesn't have time to spin on you before the bolt reverse out with ease. The cheater bar and socket method doesn't work very well for this job. www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-PCE211-7-5-Impact-Wrench/dp/B07255QCN4/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M18B2SCSW0JEMVKKDKBK /K&K

I got it loose by cranking it over with the socket on the bolt while the wrench was resting on the frame. One quick bump loosened it, btw..thanks for the quick response.

@@KNKRNR I just bought that impact. Unfortunately it's too big to get in there. I have everything off but the condenser. It's a ford ranger 3.0l

You are right, but I have made my own specialty tools and have so for many years. You can go a buy the correct tool, but most people don't. I wish they would because we fix a lot of incorrectly pulled balances issues. To install I used a 12mm long (Shoulder head grade 8 or better threaded bolt) with a few spacers to gently glide the balance back on. After you get the balance pressed on about 80% you can you factory bolt to drive in the rest in. Don't use the factory bolt before you use a long piece of 12 mm threaded stock to get it started. I make sure I have the 12mm threaded bolt 1/2 the way threaded in before any pushing power is applied. Down below is a link to a video of how I put them back on. This trick does work for most GM's and Fords with some exception. (FWD Ford's / FWD GM's this trick will not work) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dBo5MiejYpU.html I hope this video will make it easy for you to reinstall your balance. This trick is solid when done correctly. /K&K

Keith & Kevin's Repair & Restorations Yes that's right! There are MANY ways to fix a car. Mechanics even use Clothesline in the cylinder to lock an engine to remove and tighten the bolt. I used a soda straw to feed the clothesline into the cylinder. A REAL mechanic will have ONLY the tools he needs in his box and not a whole set of screwdrivers. Sometimes a person can learn from a backyard mechanic. My auto-mechanic teacher says sometimes you have to get away from the factory specs. There is a trick called 'repositioning the distributor'. You get #1 on TDC on comp. stroke on 0. Then you lift up the Dist. and point the rotor at #1 terminal on the cap. Then turn the distributor against normal rotation and set it back down and turn it to normal setting. Then set the timing. This compensates for timing chain slack. It would be a good idea to install a balancer sleeve to compensate for the groove in the snout. Fel-Pro has a installation tool. While the engine is out, replace the rear seal and get the factory tools.

We like to use standard hardware bolts like 4-6 inch (Grade 5) shoulder head by 1/2 threaded bolts. Any Nut & Bolt combo will work as long as they can go though to the other side with washers to spread the load while pulling. /K&K

You would need to replace that Balancer as its a one piece assembly. /K&K

@@KNKRNR thank you

You need this puller for the newer modular engines, as you have pull them from the outer hub snout. link below www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25090-Harmonic-Balancer-Mitsubishi/dp/B01AIRR4EY/ref=asc_df_B01AIRR4EY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312142020868&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14123982863101682462&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033784&hvtargid=pla-541521779732&psc=1 /K&K

Yes you do, this video was intended to help those who are stuck on the balancer. To see the full repair check out the link below. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5f0Wy84FjpY.html /K&K

With the right tool and bolts its a 5 minute job. /K&K

The water pump needed to be resealed as well. This 4.0L V6 had a few coolant leaks to be straighten out. /K&K

Its a 5 minute job if you have the right tools to remove the balancer. It took longer to go to the hardware store to the bolts needed then the removal did. /K&K