Thanks I'm glad you wasn't talking about the weather and 30 minutes of crap that didn't have anything to do with cam bearings I think I can handle it now you explained it well and to the point
I'm pulling apart a 5.7 vortec in one of our old workhorses that lost oil pressure. I realized several of the cam bearings had moved out of factory position. This video was a life saver, thank you very much.
Thank you for going slow and repeating I'm older and it takes a few minutes for things to soak in, feel a lot more assured in trying this now . I hope you do a video showing the process of installing them thanks again
That was an outstanding explanation of how to locate your cam bearings. first one i have seen that really made sense of why and where the oil holes should be located.
Finally, a good explanation. I drew a circle using a cam bearing and then put the clock positions on it and then transferred that to the bearings so I could see as I was driving them in. Thanks.
Excellent Video! I'm installing my cam bearings right now and there are countless conflicting instructions when researching where to index the oil holes. This video is clear and concise, thank you so much for taking the time to upload, I sure appreciate it. Subscribed!
Great video. I am going to mark 9:12 because dragslick summarizes the bearing positions. You can hear all the why fors and what ifs in the rest of the video and yes watch that. If you want to know how they go in and just a quick summary, there you have it. Great video, both for content and being to the point, thanks.
wish i would of seen this video a 3 days ago. ruined 2 sets of bearing from not having them in the correct location so on to my 3rd set now . you have the only video that i could find that mentions where the bearing positions are on the block. very frustrated to say the least. ive always had the machine shop install them but figured i would do it myself since i bought an installer. very good video
About to replace my cam bearings on a 1pc seal 880 block. It's a 2200.00 dollar block that was new and CNCd for up to a 3.80 stroke. The cam bearings are clocked all over the place. Your absolutely correct about the oil wedge and valve train pressure. My #1 front bearing has one hole at 6 o'clock lined up with the main bearing oil feed hole and the second hole is at 2 o'clock. The whole bottom ⅓ of it anyways has excessive wear. #2 @ 4:30, #3 @ 2:30, #4 @ 6 o'clock and not sure about #5 at the moment but suspect it could also be at 6 o'clock. Anyways I've installed them in the past based off your video and will be again next weekend. Thanks. Also the engine I'm discussing has around 15k miles on it. All roller from cam to rockers
When I was in technical school many years ago we were taught to NEVER touch a bearing surface with our bare hands! The acid on your skin causes premature erosion on the bearing surface!
I gotta say - in my 40 years of playing with cars and swapping engines, that almost sounds ludicrous. My buds and I have taking apart chevys small blocks - swapped - interchanged parts - as well as restarted parked cars. And we still got the engines to run. naturally if an engine is blow, then it's blown. I'm not saying that tech school might not have a point - but 100 years from now? 200 years from now with the erosion? In other words -go ahead and build an engine
This is the right way not lining the oil hole to the main bearing oil hole where the cam is pushing down against it. This way it creates an oil wedge causing the cam rotation to carry the oil to the high pressure spot at the bottom.It works the same as con rod bearing oiling
I never understood why it matters where the oil holes went because of the oil Gally that goes all the way around the bearing but the oil wedge you explained I understand and why if there not positioned correctly the oil pressure is efected
I'm doing this on a 5.7 vortec, the only difference I see is that the vortec motor cam bearing bores have the complete inner circular groove for the oil supply, instead of just the one hole in the 8 o clock install position. Basically they all look like the #1 bearing.
Interesting, I just pulled a 355 apart with oil pressure problems and found bearing #1 at 12 and 4 o'clock, #2 through 4 @ 12 o'clock and # 5 @ 6 o'Clock....I think I found the problem. Thanks for the informative video, oh and where did you get that diagram on 12, 8 and 4 o'clock positions
I just bought a 283 and that's exactly what I suspected... Two rods on a fresh rebuild were oil starved bc of metal shavings. I literally said man how would shavings be in the oil system like that. They looked almost as if it were a drill shaving but I'm thinking the oil pressure was pushing and pushing the crank was rotating and curled them up. Thank again. New subscriber. Share more. Haha. Very soon too!!! Any tricks .. especially on a 283? Curious 😁
Great tips thank you for the information question if the block doesn't go to a machine shop. But wanting to clean the oil galleries what's the proper tool to use for the. Cleansing process to do it with thank you.
Yeah, and I tried to see what CAD program he was using, but couldn't make it out. I have TurboCAD Deluxe 21. I would have used black lines with white background, but the idea he has of making the drawing for the purpose of establishing the 12 o'clock mark is a good one.
when installing the bearings, which side do you install first, the farthest side from either of the ends? ? and do they all go in from the inside of the block outward? im thinking u would do the farthest away first, so you dont score any in the middle by the installer tool rubbing against the bearings? thanks
yeah good vid, would u say the cam bearings hav 2 b installed with the engine & crank removed or is it posible to install them with the block upright in the car with only the cam removed or maybe this is impossible?
I bet if there's room for the cam bearing installation tool, you could probably pull it off. Just make sure that the holes are aligned over the oil wells correctly, then you should be good to go
Great job on showing position of bearings. However, im disappointed that you didn't show how you actually installed or "knocked" in the bearings. Do, did you just take a hammer and beat them in or did you use some kind of tool and how did you know when to stop knocking?
Great video with awesome explanation. I am rebuilding a 2004 4.3 Vortex 6 cy are the location for the cam the same. I just got my engine back from the shop all my bearing hole are line up with the bock oil hole. service manual tell me 3 or 9 o clock on the upright position . then I also had to tear down my daughters car that has the same engine different year 1996 the original bearings where not at the service recommendation. Now I'm lost what is the best postion for this 4.3 Thanks Frank
You say you have a 400 cu in block. Every 400 block I have ever worked on has three freeze plug holes on each side . Your block has two. That being said your install procedure provides great information.
You can see the steam holes on my other video about checking your block when it comes back from the machine shop. i used the same block in both videos.
Hi Thanks for your video. Excellent. I am doing the same on a 2001 pontiac sunfire 2.2 engine, I need to confirm, if this engine uses the same installation logic. Thank you.
So when the bearing is in correctly if i put the same size wire through the hole that would verify? or does the cam bearing hole match up to the groove in the block?
@@DRAGSLICK Having oil pressure issue. All plugs in block even hidden plug. bearing 2.5 to 3 thou. clock cam bearings/ Hei msd /stock pan with Melling hv pump.1/2`` off pan/20/50 oil wix filter only 30 psi when cold and 10 when hot. Does not increase much when at 2500prm. verified test gauges as well. Bad pump? Fresh rebuild 355. also new bypass for oil filter.
This video helped a lot I've been trying to help my dad with his small-block and now I know why I stick with my 4-cylinder HONDAS......Hate to say it but Chevy and Ford V8s (n prob more) Are not very well built AT ALL.......
Running 23 dealerships with the family business. Everyone who claims Honda's are built better just because; are full of crap! I have seen horrible lemons, and very expensive fixes in Honda's and Toyota's come in. Same with Chevy's, Ford's, Ram's, etc but none more than the other. Matter of fact, Honda's counter weight belt system is so typical in our three Honda service departments that it's an eye roll when another one comes in..... although a nice money maker for us.
It's further back compared to 1-4, a good way to check is to see if the hole is lined up with the oil well by poking thru the hole to feel if you go into the well
I made the diagram at work on my computer. Here is a link to the durabond bearing website that shows what they recommend. www.dura-bondbearing.com/Portals/3/pdf/Cam%20bearing%20oil%20holeTechnical%20Bulletin.pdf
