How to install roof vents // Don't hire us if... Episode #1 

Dennis Alex Right! No caulk should be used across the bottom. Nail heads were left un-caulked and it’s totally unnecessary to remove a shingle tab.

i dunno why you say this video made anything complicated literally its just these guys who did the job is younger than the one you mentioned...maybe you feel more comfortable with older men teaching you things?

Thanks - after watching a few vids, this one has a ton of unnecessary things. Perhaps they are advertising themselves by pretending this is a hard project...?

I have to agree that the "This Old House" method of cutting away shingles was much easier and more direct. I actually watched that video before coming here and was blown away when I saw this guy pulling out entire strips of shingles, not using safety harness, and caulking the underneath bottom of the hood--potentially trapping condensate....I'm like WTF.

@@Jesus4KungFu You have to look at the finished product - it looks like crap, and after all that shingle pulling, he didn't even cut the notch the right width - there's a 2" gap on both sides! So after all that, and the job was done wrong - and they want to advertise this?

Yup....

the roofing material would dull the bit, works either way haha

It probably won't leak but there sure is monster gaps on the shingles

You need to leave a gap, but not that big of an (uneven) gap lol it is to allow frozen water to expand if it gets collected there, not an issue in warm climate but needed in Northern areas

You always cock the vent not under the shingle, I seen it too. I have to put a vent under some old shingles. I know how just looking for the best way not to break them. Could I make a small box cutout and slide it in? I do roofing but the roof is completely off when I install vents...

With older roof, chances are, some shingles will break when you pull them out, always good to know how to replace entire rows. I bought myself some spare shingles before tackling the project and surely enough, I needed them.

They probably did it to prevent any skipping because they were using the screw as a mandrel, hard to saw but after the edit it seems like its going in the right direction.

Eric Himes I don’t see what difference it makes because you never know which way the wind is blowing. Basically, you want it as close to the dryer or bathroom vent so you don’t have a long run.

It's a Broan RVK1A.

Yes absolutely.

Eric Minniear- If you just run the vent , with all that humidity , into the attic , you might very well end up with mold . You need to buy the " stovepipe" connections and fit them together and run a " tube " up to the roof . You can get them at any Lowe`s or Home Depot or any roofing store . Also , buy a crimping tool that makes the end smaller , and the correct aluminum tape to use . After you use the crimping tool once , you will see what I mean . If the route is twisted , buy a 45 degree connection or two . However , every one of those 45 or 90 degree connections makes it harder for the exhausted air to get out . Whatever you do , don`t use a reducer that connects a 6" tube to a smaller 4 " tube . Also , remember to get machine screws to fasten the short pieces of tube together to from a long tube . ( You can probably get better customer service and any necessary advice at a roofing store . )

Fabian Dee Depends on where in America what materials are commonly used. But yeah, composite shingles are pretty common. Where are you from and what is used?

Not necessarily especially for a retrofit like this job.

Flange only needs to be under all shingles at the top, sandwiched between in the middle, and lip over the shingles at the bottom. Once sealed properly this will prevent water egress.