This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ru-vid.comUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
An easier way to mark the reveal is to make a guide out of hardwood (for durability) scrap. Take two pieces of 3/4-inch material about two inches square and assemble them -- very precisely -- with glue and a couple nails so they are offset 1/4 inch. The guide simply rests in the corners of the window jam extensions for marking the reveal. If your reveal is other than 1/4 inch it is easy to make several guides. Keep them with your shims and they will be easy to find. These guides are also handy for marking the reveal at several places along the casing, as long pieces of slender material such as MDF can sag and make the reveal inaccurate.
Try using syroflex as your adhesive (it’s white and application is similar) and cutting your miters with a 1 degree compound angle so you can really get nice tight joints. Also like to use 16 gauge nails for nailing into framing. I appreciate that tip about holding your nail gun, I never knew that!
April Wilkerson recommend your channel and I can see why. Great video. Lots of great tips for amateurs like me without being patronising. Looking forward to watching more.
This video will have 1M views at some point. So many of the other window/door trim videos skip over so many of the small details covered in this one. Well done.
Really......? This guy missed his mark for the miter cut by close to a 16th of an inch, and somehow that's an acceptable cut?.... Wow,..... things have really changed a lot in trim work.
I did miss that sorry I stand corrected. compared to what I have seen in the last 15 years his work was acceptable. And I will add, my work and quality of craftsmanship was among the best. Just sayin.
I don't doubt your ability nor the level of your craftsmanship, Jack. My remark wasn't really directed so much to you as it was to Jon. ... and I think you got that. Jon has a lot of good tips in this video, and a few things that I would take issue with, as well. Yeah, I agree with you that the work is acceptable........ really a sad commentary on how things have gotten in the trades.
Completely agree, Otto. I was like, yeah your miter cut was way off. Guess that's the mindset of people not being precise and just, "We'll just use painters caulk."
I haven't done a lot of trim work, so I definitely learned something, the using trim to mark directly your cuts instead of trying to measure makes a lot of sense as its more accurate and much faster, and the nail trick looks handy. You show marking and cutting the horizontal trim, but how to best cut vertical trim like on that doorway using trim, seems like we're back to using a tape measure. My 2 cents I think some thin latex caulk would be better than wood glue and more removable if needed later on, while still giving adhesive bond. Also it wouldn't seep out of joints or run down the wall.
Claude Bradley actually look up the makita 7 1/2” sliding saw. It weighs Very little and can cut a 12” peice of wood in one pass. I’ve been using it for the last 20 years
I personally don't use nail gun & don't get nail crazy when installing any trim in the event I ever need to remove trim in the future & glueing trim? it's bad enough when I had to remove trim around bedroom doors plastered with nails thank goodness no glue was used it would have been even more of a nightmare.. Trim molding is not going anywhere by only using 4 fine nails to each side vertically & 3 nails max horizontally too many nails is overkill.. I also suggest pre drill all holes into wood approx 1/2" inwards from edge of trim with thinest drill bit so there is no splinnering cracking the wood trim, insert nails, line trim up to reveal line, start tapping nails in then center punch each one then fill with silicone, perfect install every time..
thanks i needed to hear this. I recently installed trim and used zero adhesive after removing old trim thinking the nails were certainly enough. I tugged on my work and it wasnt going anywhere. I did throw a couple nails outside of the framing into pure drywall...i know its not doing much but it did take some play out of the edges meeting the drywall before caulking. Anyway im about to do some wall trim. ive seen a lot of adhesive on videos. necessary or same principle?
Wash your mouth out with soap and water. Of course you need to have a wall of those beautiful systainer boxes. You are forgetting the first rule of modern woodworking - tools make the the carpenter. Wherever possible, get the most expensive option for any tool; choose by price - not features. These are all great tips to have a workshop to be proud of when friends come by. Please remember that you don’t have to be able to use the tools or be able to do any job to be able to have a professional looking workshop. I’m prepared to come to your assistance on this one. I’m now producing the front panel of the systainer from all the over-priced manufacturers like Festool, Milwaukee out of MDF. So, now, for only £35 per front panel, you can have a workshop absolutely stacked with what looks like expensive tools. Ever aspire to have that array of hand planes set on the back wall. You know, those planes that just shout “ I’m a great cabinet maker” whilst, in truth, you don’t know how to sharpen them - let alone use them. Well, we are working on a set of hand planes completely moulded out of plastic. They will look exactly like the real thing and, being plastic, you don’t have to have a sturdy display cabinet because they weigh nothing! We are looking at supplying each plane with a set of decals that you slip on. Names like Lie Neillson and Veritas. We are also working hard on a new aspirational brand. These will be tools that are so expensive that you can barely afford them. And, once you have them, you will be scared to even use them. We are thinking of some obscure Japanese name for the brand - means nothing but then so do we. I’ve got a a Japanese guy I know to front the adverts; you know, sitting on the floor in those wide trousers and tabis looking philosophically at the rising sun and talking faux-Japanese. We will tell everyone that the wood used comes from the rarest tree in the world and only found on one remote island; it’s also the worst timber in the world for handles but you can’t have everything. The steel is made by a hermit who uses volcanic rocks from Mount Fuji; water from a spring in Laos; iron ore dug up by a tribe of aboriginals in the Outback. Actually, it all comes from Aldi but what the heck. If you want to be one of the first persons to get access to all this crap, you only have to send me £50. Please put in an envelope and leave just outside my mental hospital. I should be out in about 20 years.
Unless for a custom installation, all doors come in standard sizes. A 2'0" door = 24" inside of jamb to inside of jamb. A 2'4" door = 28" inside to inside, 2'6" 30" etc.. Side jambs from bottom to inside of top jamb measures 80". A properly installed door with tight joints this does not vary. I've been doing trim carpentry for years and I've watched carpenters repeatedly measure from door to door to fit trim. IT DOES NOT CHANGE!!! For a 1/4" reveal add 5/16" for each miter cut. For example a 2'6" door measuring 30" inside to inside of jamb, for your top trim, add 5/8" from short point to short point of your two miters for a total of 30 5/8". Your side jambs are going to measure 80 5/16" from square end to short point of miter. This will give you an even 1/4" reveal all around the door. For a 2'8" door your top trim will measure 32 5/8" short to short, your side jambs 80 5/16" square end to short point. A 6'0" slider, 72" inside to inside, cut 72 5/8" for your short to short on top, 80 5/16" square to short for your sides. The number of times I've watched experienced carpenters go from a 2'6" door and have to walk back and forth from miter box to door to mark the trim, then rinse and repeat on the next 2'6" door or the opposite side of the same door. Those measurements didn't change and yet they, measure and cut, measure and cut. So many wasted steps back and forth. As a lead carpenter having to account for man hours/man days on trimming a house those wasted trips add up to a lot of wasted man hours. This method does not in any way jeopardize your quality but will save you lots of time. Windows often will differ in size but you can employ the same trick. Measure your window inside of jamb to inside of jamb all the way around. WRITE IT DOWN. Add 5/8" short point to short point of your miters for each piece of trim. Measure and cut all your trim at one time at the saw. It will fit perfectly with a 1/4" reveal all around your window. This will save all those steps back and forth, your trim will fit perfectly without all the nails for support, marking the miter and back to the saw to make the cut, then back to the window for install. If you want or need to mark set backs for your reveals. Make a simple setback jig. Cut a 3" square of 1/4" plywood. Cut another piece 2 3/4" square. Glue one surface, align two sides of the smaller piece with the larger piece. This will leave a 1/4" step on two sides of the larger piece. Place this jig with the smaller piece inside of the corner of your jamb, the larger piece will be laying on the face of the jamb. Mark each side of the corner, there is your 1/4" setback on both sides. After trimming a few hundred doors and windows, hopefully you will train your eye to gauge a 1/4" reveal without having to mark every one.
A standard door jamb measures 80" from the bottom of the side jamb to the bottom of the head jamb. Overall height to top of head jamb would only be 80 3/4". In 30+ years of home building I've not seen this vary. Except in custom installations for non-spec installs. ( I sometimes saw this on pocket doors in old turn of the century Victorians I've restored.) Unless the carpenter that installed that door held it up off the floor. Which is how I hang doors. The gap beneath the jamb allows carpet layers to tuck carpet/pad under, instead of having to trim around the jamb/trim. This makes for a much cleaner install. If you followed and held your trim down tight to the floor, this could account for your deviation. So........? I don't know what to tell you.
@@davidjohnston1971 Wrongo buddy. I have two companies here in Michigan that have two different heighths flom bottom to top of jamb and jamb thickness as well. One is 81" ,the other 81 3/8. True we measure one of each size of door for general head casing,but if you hang solid core doors and hold them up for hardwood without removable shims . They tend to drop on the hinge side unless you set each hinge with longer screws . Also, many times the hardwood,tile, vinyl is already set and it's up to the finish carpenters on my crew to make sure the doors are st and trimmed tight to the surface. As a prior framer as well.I will tell you that with materials today the floor within the jamb space can vary,so even with a finished floor we set a level across the opening and cut the jamb on the high side to give a level head jamb. Without that step. Your 45 s are never tight. And if your guys were proficient enough in hanging and trimming doors .They'd have it down to a routine. There's a difference between a trimmer and a finish carpenter. One only cares that he doesn't see it from his house.
I like your idea of using a nail to hold up the molding at 6:50. Have you ever considered moving the nail a few inches (in this case) to the right to be on the vertical piece of framing so that when you apply the vertical trim, it hides the nail? That way you wouldn't have to fill the small nail hole in the horizontal piece of door framing. Not that anyone would really ever notice it anyways.
Nevermind, I answered my own question. If you did that, once you cut the molding to size, it the nail wouldn't hold it. I'll leave my stupid suggestion here in case anyone else has the same 'bright' idea ;)
Hi Jon--your title says it all --you ALWAYS make it look simple and your work ALWAYS looks GREAT!!! You are def. a master carpenter or master craftsman--may i ask what size your back-band is? thank you tim
Good vid, I use a 23ga pin nailer if I have solid wood to nail to. Tiniest holes ever, most of time don't even need to white wax them or fill they are like hairs.
That 1/4" scrap for marking the reveal is a good idea. I'd probably pin a backer to it for riding the inside of the casing allowing me to scribe uniformly and quickly without much attention to detail.
Great video. My wife and I are looking to add crown molding (i believe it's 3 piece molding) on the outside of our windows. How would we go about diy'ing the molding ourselves? Thanks!
In the case of the wall (drywall) being higher or lower behind the trim; either causing a void between the casing and trim or making the trim lay proud of the wall? I think I know the answer, but am not certain.
The trim nails are laid flat as they are stacked together..it will actually curl up or down rather than side to side..so I always turn my nailgun sideways
I know that the ceiling is White Dove and the walls are Revere Pewter, but what is the blue paint color in other room, in the background? The three colors look so good together!
Great video. Recently lost my job as a cabinet installer and was always interested in trimming but never had an idea how people did it or started with it. Now i have a general idea how people can get started with trims 🙏🏻
I love these videos and I was wondering if you plan on doing any archway moulding. That is what I want to do in my house but not much info about it on RU-vid.
Lots of time wasted walking in and out of a customer's house. I still mark my 1/4" reveals for installing the casing but I just measure the inside on the opening and add the 1/2" to get my lengths. That way I can measure all pieces, write them down and cut everything at once while I'm at the saw. It can be difficult to get precise measurements when you're measuring the inside of the miters but you can lay your tape measure out next to your casing, "burn" an inch on your tape measure and then add the inch back...if that makes sense. You can cut an entire room this way and then install the entire room and still get great results.
I like the idea of using a nail to hold up the trim while installing. I am opposed to ever using glue though. I don't want to destroy the trim if it needs to come apart in the future.
I like your way how you do the job. Just one thing. Your blade is not covered by the plastic guard. And I know you have it with out guard by purposes because I know how hassles it gives ti make a cut. Just a point of view.
Hello Jon, Another useful video. The back-band -- nice touch, by the way -- is slightly proud of the trim correct? Looks like it is, but want to make sure. Thanks! -Nick
it's for 'looks'. adding the reveal adds depth to the finished look of it, if you just nailed it flush with the window you wouldn't get this built up look to it. Possibly an additional reason is that if you tried to nail it flush with the window you might find that there is some warpage or bowing around the window and the straight casing would highlight the flaw.
