I did this, jump start battery, but rectifier was problem. By time I rode bike home failed rectifier had destroyed my battery. Now I'm buying both, make sure problem isn't someplace other than needing a new battery?
I made the mistake of trying to jump my bike from my car. I not only fried my battery, I fried the entire electrical system. I had to replace it all. Lesson learned the hard way.
@@billyd5317 It is safe to use a car just make sure the car engine is off as the cars alternator put out way to many amps ? for the bike system to handle.
Yes that jump from a starter is handy .I presume you can also connect your charger the same way ( saves getting seat off to get to battery terminals .??
Low Country HD has a video where they created a plate with copper tubing flatten n electrical tape. Clamp on the end nearest you n the other end to the starter bolt. This way you don't have to squeeze into that space. The end of the part was grinded to a semi circle so it could fit around the starter.
Thanks for info. Can you tell me what this problem may be. I have a 2021 street glide. It’s been in garage for months while I had surgery. I do not have battery tender on it but have gone to start it every weekend with no problem maybe a little drag when it’s been cold outside. Today I did same it started I let it run for awhile then shut it off. Before I went back into house I decided to turn it on one more time. This time it did turn over I can here fuel injectors same as all the other times only this time it stayed on for few seconds then stopped. Like it flooded or not getting gas. Any info would be appreciated. Can the battery be too low to keep gas from staying on? Thanks again
I don’t think it’s pre ignition , that has more to do with riding at a high temp and heat from top of piston us causing the fuel to detonate early and retards the timing. Charge your battery full charge and try again. If it cranks and runs for a few seconds and dies then you may have a problem with your Bank Angle Sensor possibly. The BAS inhibits your ignition and will cause the bike to shut down and lose spark. If you turn the switch off and wait 10 seconds the BAS will reset, try to crank again, if it runs for a few seconds and shuts down again repeat the process a couple more times to see if the symptoms are consistent. May well be your BAS. Might be a stand alone BAS or it could be incorporated into the TSM.
No, there is no fuel pump on a bike, it's all gravity fed. Probably something else, bad battery, stator (alternator), voltage regulator... FYI im not a bike mechanic.
If you want to use a trickle charger on your bike the best way is to mount a pigtail directly to your battery posts. Most trickle chargers come with a pig tail for this purpose. Not a full on battery charger but a trickle charger. The pigtail usually has a black wire and red wire, red being your positive and black negative. Some will have two black wires but will show you how to connect the pigtail either way. Once you connect the pigtail jus pull it out from inside the frame work and attach it to the frame someplace with a zip tie where You can access it but it’s not real noticeable. When you want to connect the charger to the bike battery simply plug into the pigtail without removing any parts from the bike.
OK... that part about a car battery providing too much amps? Really??? Bogusity! Most lithium jump start packs can put out more current than most car batteries can. Current is drawn from a battery. It will only give what is being demanded. If the dead battery and starter wants 100A, then that's what the car battery will provide and no more. The car battery being bigger will just be able to provide those 100A for a longer period of time than the smaller sibling motorcycle battery. 12V is 12V, whether from a MC battery or a car battery. Nothing can get fried if the connections are the right way around and they're both 12V batteries! Cheech!!!!
@@fentontaylor9021 Amps is something that are drawn from a battery, not pushed. Same goes for an alternator. In older days when non-electronic regulators were in use on cars, attempting to draw more Amps than the alternator could deliver could damage the alternator. Hence the do-not-start-while-jumping practice back then.
