How to Keep Slab Tables Flat - How To Woodworking 

This was perfect as a vanity desk for me. ru-vid.comUgkxMAlHv7-BBWMrPRm5-uEoD6rtdT7SG2Qr Especially the glossy finish. Easy to cleanI was looking for something that wasn't the traditional white and with more of a modern feel. This fit the bill beautifully. I put it together with no problems, by myself in under an hour.Make sure you double check where you place the drawer tracks before screwing down. I had one track that needed to be aligned with different holes than the rest.

This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ru-vid.comUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.

Bro, you have the best most in depth slab channel I've seen. I love it.

That's a good point to remember, tight center bolt and slightly loose outer bolts. Wood movement is not just likely, it's guaranteed. I find that putting a little Loctite blue on the bolt threads really helps keep them in their slightly loose setting but prevents them backing out on their own. Be sure to use the blue and be wary of the red if you ever wish to disassemble the table. The red is some gnarly stuff.

Really nice workmanship. I like how you think of everything. Take it or leave it (just a suggestion). When installing the C channel, I think I would just drill a single hole in the centre of the channel and slot the outer holes as you have done. This way the channel will always remain centred when expansion and contraction happen. Just my 2 cents worth.

Two questions: i remember you saying you didnt like drilling into epoxy so you needed odd sizes for river tables.... so what would you do on a river table with epoxy all down the middle? and is there a formula you go by for how many of these channel supports youd would need based on the length and width of a table? i.e. for a 60" table youd use x amount and for a 104" table youd use y amount

fantastic channel . Greetings from the Slovak Republic/ Europe.

A well explained and concise tutorial on a topic/technique not often discussed. And appreciate the specifics regarding the hardware.

Hello, love your videos. I'm curious if you ever considered outsourcing your c-channels to a local laser cutting shop. I oversee the lasers where I work and I can tell you, a laser could cut an entire profile for one of your c-channels in less time than you will spend to make one of your slots. A job-shop close to where you live probably wouldn't charge that much to cut and bend channels. You wouldn't be limited to available C-channel sizes, it would save you a ton of time and you would get much softer edges than you have with saw cuts and drilled holes. If you wanted, you could get fancy and have them cut a name or logo into the steel too.

A tip for your slotted holes in your channel. A die grinder bit will fit your drill press. Step up the speed and slot away.

What a straight piece of steel work The same just placing it on top of the surface? I have a long piece of wooden art and I wanna make sure it doesn’t war overtime.

This is exactly what have been wondering, thank you!

Hey Cam, thank you for what you do! I've been working through your epoxy workshop and the information in it is amazing... but I'm left with a lot of questions about C channel! 1. If you have translucent epoxy, do you try to hide the C channel, place it differently (I did see you try that in one video), or run it under the table legs to hide them? 2. Can the table leg bases act as a C-channel too, or do they bend to much to count? 3. How far apart do you place the channels? 4. How long of a channel do you aim for compared to the tabletop?

Great informative video on c channels!!!🔥

Awesome. I am an Ironworker with a wood working hobby

Just watched a "sunken log" video and wondered if you ever played with that type??? It is said to be more stable since they being underwater seems to age the logs perfectly...

Can also slot the steel with a cutoff blade in a Dremel. The process would go a bit faster if you pre-cut with a cutoff blade in an angle grinder, but since the diameter is larger you won’t be able to go all the way through.

I don't know how I never knew about your channel, but it's great! 👍🏾🍻😎💯

TapFree ( available from McMaster and probably Amazon) is an excellent drilling and tapping fluid. Comes formulated for ferrous or nonferrous metals.

Always give great advice. Thank you.

In all the examples I've seen, the c-channel is secured to the table underside at right angles to the long table edge. This makes sense since wood expands across the grain, and in most case the long grain runs more or less along the long side of the table. But what about the case where the long grain is at an angle? I have a 40" x 74" table with the long grain running at about 30 degrees to the long edge of the table. I think I should I position the c channel at right angles to the long grain, instead of at right angles to the long side. Or does it matter? I ask because placing the c channels at an angle interferes with positioning of the legs, which DO have to be at right angles to the long edge.

Cam, I have been following you for a couple of years and have purchased some of your products and training. So, I have a lot of faith in what you do. that said, I am curious as to your thoughts on the following: I am about ready to build a slab table and it was a no brainer that I was going to add a C channel, then I saw a vide that Encurtis just put out which got me thinking. Basically, he is saying that a C channel is a waste of time at best. So, I started doing some research on the topic. While I cannot find a lot of information on it, I did find a similar story being told by others. Basically, they are contending that: 1) even steel would not be strong enough against the forces of wood. 2) Keeping a slab flat is really done when preparing it and that a C channel will not save a poorly prepared slab. 3) Some speculation here on their part, but the routing of the channels for the the C Channel do more to help the board warp than if the C channel were never installed.

Excellent, clear narration. You could read audio books

As always, great video! 😊

Hi Cam, I love your work! I bought a walnut slab some weeks ago for a dining table I want to build and I've been binge watching your videos since then. They have been extremely helpful to prepare myself for the build, while being super entretaining at the same time. I've seen you install the c-channels for your table tops almost always with the back side up. However, for one table you put the back side of the c-channel down wards (I hope that makes sense). The guy I bought my slab from recomended me to inlay the c-channels with the back side down. Is there a reason you might think of, why it would be better that way? Keep up the good work!

Thanks mate this helped a lot!

Hi, great video and explanations. I have a bamboo slab (69x39 and 1,5" thick) installed 8 years ago on a kitchen island. It started to warp in the last 2-3 years. I tryied a few tricks, like a wet towel to return it flat. It works but it warps again and even worst then before. We do oil it but we forgot to oil the underside. Can I install the C channels and bring it back flat using the water towel and tighten everything up? Also, on a 1,5" thick, how deep should I go to or what size of a C channel should I use? Thanks a million

Excellent pointers, thanks.

Thank you for making this video! Very helpful

I always enjoy your videos, your techniques and craft is 💯

Thank you for the amazing video. I made a walnut table and it ended up cupping over the winter. My guess is the legs didnt allow for movement. Do you think a few c channels would help pull this flat again? It cupped about 1/4 inch over a 44 inch wide table. Thank you

Hey Cam! Will C-Channel straighten out a partially cupped river table thats already been planed and cupped afterwards?

Hi Cam, is there a formula to help determine how many c channels you need for a slab...I am making a 7' x 40" dining room table. Should I just use two on the ends or do I need one or two towards the middle of the table. Thanks much. Great video

Do you need to do anything to keep it from sagging lengthwise?

Hi cam. You said you don’t have to lay the inlay completely flush correct? I can get away with just routing out the lines for the lip of the channels? I’m only working with a 1” thick table top.

Hi Cam, that table is 2 inches thick by 44 x 60

Such a good video

Hey Cam, I really enjoy watching your videos and learning from you. I have a question when you get a chance: how do you go about sealing the edges and bottom that would be exposed wood? Are those only sealed by the oil product you apply near the end of the process? My thought process is: since the wood is clamped to the bottom and sides of the mold, when the mold is removed, that part of the wood does not have any epoxy on it.

thank you

Have you ever tried angle iron? I've got some pretty thick slabs that I think I could cut deep enough to insert angle iron without too much work. If it's a bad I Dea I want to know though hahaha.

Very nicely done. I appreciate you directing me over to this video. This should help me with my tables. Going back to our conversation on the other video, my wood is dry and not wet. I didnt have larger slabs, so I ripped some boards to length (roughly 4" wide) and then joined them together on the edges with glue and pocket screws on the bottom side. The issue I get is the table slightly cupping as it moves and breaths between the warmer months and the colder months. Flat as "A board" in the warmer months, but moves slightly in the colder months. This may also be contributed to how I have the top attached to the base (coffee tables and end tables). I did attach that with pocket screws also. Hindsight, it doesnt really give the table a great way to move. I'm completely a mature and I really dont know of a better way to attach the top to the base. Do you have any videos or suggestions on how I can improve on that?

What actually makes the table warping after pouring the resin? I made a table top with olive wood and some resin. After it cured the complete table top warped. Over both axis. I tried to put some C-Channels in even that is not making the table top flat. The planks where about 20mm thick. That is so desperate to see that nice finished product warping that hard. Will you touch base on that on your workshop as well? Thanks in advance.

I’ve made a tabletop out of 7 old weatherboards that is only 19-20mm thick. Should I still use C channel to keep it flat or something else? T bar? Angle bar? Does it need to be steel or would aluminium suffice? It’s a long table, 2.7 metres.

Is that possible to install the c-channels after pouring the epoxy? Is that gonna work as fine as if I did it at the beginning? Thanks

Question! Can I go back and add a c channel after the fact? I built a table and unfortunately did not add or know about it and now the table is cupped, can I flip it over weigh it down and add the c channel to get it back to flat?

Should I always put c-channels in a epoxy river double side desk like 108”x30” ? Thank you again 👍

Thanks for clear video! Is there a reason to use a C-channel over a L profile?

Hi Cam, can you tell me where you get the Murakoshi bolts from? Very nice video.

Would you add a c channel if it spans across the epoxy and do you have a video that shows you laying out legs that span over epoxy?

I have a black walnut table live edge that is about 50x108”. It has cupped about an inch on each side. I was considering doing a c channel as well, but using epoxy all the way across to prevent. It seems you are saying it needs the room to move and the epoxy would be counter productive. Thoughts?

Great video! Thanks!

I have bought 3 0live ash roundish through cuts .What is the best way to stop them bowing .I was thinking 4mm or above mild steel plate .. round or square .Or would the cu metal 2 inch x 1 inch mitred and made as big as the slabs will allow welded at the corners .Then routed into the bottom of the slab...or do slabs cut laterally not tend to bow,,Thank you IAN

I have granite base with 5/8 in plywood do I need a c channel or can I just bolt legs to to plywood. I do not have a solid wood top

SO- I am doing a solid walnut slab 22” wide x 8’ long x 2 1/4” thick. Would this system work for “stabilizing” this table and should I run them long ways or cross like you did based on the solid slab layout? I was concerned about the thickness of the slab being too thin after I router in the 1 1/4” C-channel…

Hi Cam, how many see channels do I need for a 44 x 60” long countertop table

Perfect thx

Cam, Great videos. I have what I think is a quick question. When do you install the c channel? After you pour or before?

Thanks so much, great video

Great info, thanks!

Excellent video. I saw a couple of questions like mine, but didn't see a response. For a river table with wide epoxy sections, you don't put threaded inserts into the epoxy. Do you just drill into the wood portion? Does that do the job well enough with 15" or more without a bolt in it? Would you recommend putting the inserts in the epoxy, but make it snug rather than real tight?

Nice video Cam. What is the point of plaining the bottom of the slab? wouldn't keeping that side covered with epoxy help keep the slab flat?

Great job

I'm hoping you can help me. I bought a beech wood table top online, stained and matte oiled. The seller showed the top at 45 x 24 with metal plates (or battens, about 1/2 width and 22 inches long on the short edge of the table top) about 5 inches in underneath on both ends and one metal batten in the center. My top arrived with only 2 battens instead of 3, with each on the ends. The underside of the table top has a rough area that's uneven, I don't know the proper term and there are some cracks coming from it but only on the underside. I'm wondering if I should be concerned and return it? It won't be easy for me to do that, but I don't want to see anything happen to this tabletop after I go through the effort of attaching legs.

Where do you get your inserts? Has your manufacturer changed since COVID?

Love your videos! Wish I could find some C Channel with shorter sides as I can only get 25mm where I am. Just wondering if reinforcing lengthwise is a consideration for longer tables (if I still only want two legs). 2700mm long redwood table at 50mm thick. I'm concerned it will bow in the middle.

Good content . I am going to try this method

Hi Cam - The holes you’re drilling for the threaded inserts. I assume you’re drilling them as deep as the furniture screw is long, correct? Since the threaded inserts allow the bolt to go completely through? The bolts are about .5” longer than the inserts you linked to. Thanks!

Hi Cam, I love all the videos, question is it always necessary to add c channels to an epoxy table and what direction do you recommend ? my table I'm making is 6 ' x 3', I'm on the finishing stages now and have been watching and using your finishing workshop to help. Thanks Phil

Hi, how do you call the big kind of special screw you put inside the table ?many thks

I have a question - why do you use threaded inserts and not just screws?

Would you add c channels to a round epoxy slab table? If so, two parallel to leave room for the base mount in the center?

Great info! Question. When glueing two large slabs (approx 24x110x2) that both need a couple 'bowties' - glue slabs first then work on bow ties? Or do bow ties first, then glue slabs... first timer gluing large slaps... Thanks!

Hey Cam, I'm looking for the link that you have spoken about in the past for the steel inserts and bolts for the C-channel installation? Thanks

Question. I’m doing a 78” x 36” table with walnut on the sides and epoxy pour down the center. The middle 16” of the table will be epoxy. I want to inlay steel c-channel, but was wondering if you think it’s a bad idea to create a channel in the epoxy for the steel to lay in. Thanks

What C-channel would you use for a 3.5 inch thick slab? its 15 inches wide on the bottom and 19 on the top.

Cam, first many thanks for your videos! Very helpful and clear I have question about c-channel spacing. I am building a finished size 8' x 42"' x 1 3/8" thick live edge table top. I will be installing 3 c-channels 1, in the center of the 8 ft length. My question is how far from the ends should the other 2 c-channels be located. Your thoughts? Thanks again!

Hello, thank you for video. i have made tabel top (oak) 40inch wide and 80 long, and thikness is 1.5 inch. Dray wood about 8%. Is it crucial to use C channels? And is there any other option to chose instaed of C channel and braedbord to keep tabel top stable. Thank tou in advance

Can anyone tell me what type of router bit to use when making the slots?

Hi Cam, great videos - thank you. Stupid question - do you not need to worry about the table bending lengthways?

Hi Cam, Love your videos. The spiral bit that you use isn't it up or down spiral?

I am currently building my first table and your videos are really inspiring and useful. I have a question about c channels. My slab is 56”x32”, it is mesquite. In fact two large slabs have been glued and drilled together. Do I really need to install c channels? I want to try just for the fun and the experience but I am also short in time.

Exceptional video.

Hi Cam. Thanks for all your informative videos. You're truly the best in the biz. Fairly new at this. I recently made a 48 x 24 x 1.25" table with burl and epoxy. It warped lengthwise. Can I clamp the table down flat and insert these bars after the fact or am I wasting my time? If I hold a straight edge lengthwise the middle is about 1/4 " lower. Thank you

Thanks 👍👍

Hello, do you have a link that i can use to purchase the C channels ? thank you

Awesome! Do the legs themselves act the same way in helping keep the top flat?

How thick should a slab be to put C Chanels in?

Hey Cam! Getting right to the chase, up or down cut spiral router bits for table legs and supports? Thanks and keep up the great videos!

NEVER operate spinning machinery with gloves, sleeves, loose clothing, or pony tails. The gloves can get grabbed before you realize or feel and next thing you know, your hand is in it

Do I understand correctly that you add c-channel to prevent z-axis warping? Certainly that makes a lot of sense, just want to make sure I haven't missed something else. Also, this *could* be accomplished by using c-channel as the mounting plate for the legs, yes? If I make my own legs, this appears to be a wise tweak to the usual flat plate. Thanks!

I dont get something. You crosscut with the router two rather deep channels in oarallel, at a mere 2” from each other. Then you mount an insert into the top 1” or less. Once tension rises in the wood, doesnt it just rip a chunk out between the two channels considering wood splits in that dimension pretty easy? I mean its just a two inch long puece where the screw and insert appmies all the pulling force, and the steel if course cant buckle. Or i could put it differently. If the u-profile is indeed doing its job i would expect the anove dolit happening. If it diesnt split, means theres no cupping intent/ then whats the use of the channel?

Do you have suggestions on installing the threaded inserts in epoxy?

Thanks Cam. Seems like a great low-cost add-on to ensure that a high-quality piece doesn't twist or move and ruin all the work put into it. One question: for the table shown in this video, it looks like the epoxy is not flush to the bottom surface of the table? did you pour with the table upside down, get it an inch thick or so, and then flip it over and finish the top surface only (cheaper, uses less epoxy, but maybe not as stable?), or did you come back and fill the rest of the epoxy voids on the bottom as well (more expensive, uses more epoxy, but stronger)? Perhaps there is no need to pour epoxy 2-3 inches thick if it is never seen from the underside? thanks from Connecticut.

Do I need c-channels on my round epoxy table?

I'm making a river dining table with clear epoxy. About 5 inches of epoxy in the middle the yable will be 7ft x 3 1/2ft. Am i in trouble if i dont use c channels?

So excuse my ignorance, but why the c-channel? Why doesn't a simple flat bar plate work or why is the c-channel better? It doesn't seem like there are any parts of the c-channel, other than the bottom plate of the c-channel, that are actually anchored to the table. So I'm wondering why the extra work and table mass loss (in theory weakening the overall stability of the table anyway) is worthwhile? Thanks for the videos

What size of table makes you decide to use the c channel? Is it when the table is a certain length or certain width?

Great! What size/length threaded inserts and Bolts did you use?

Hey Cam...currently designing a desk top for my new work-from-home desk! I have little experience working with wood and enlisted the help of a good friend with a wood shop. After a short discussion the concepts of "warping" and "c-channel" came up. The size will be about 30" x 60" and probably made from 2-4 pieces of wood. I thought about using 4 pieces of c-channel, each about 24" long...is that overkill? How much c-channel do I need?

Love your work man. Question for you. What size threaded insert and what size bolt are you using to attach the c channel and table legs