How to Level, Set Z Offset, and Make an ABL Mesh, on an Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro & S1 PLUS 

I love hearing this. Awesome. Very welcome!

Same!I already wanted to return it! Thank you @3DRundown

Thanks so much. This one was on my to-do list for a long time...

I have to agree, and thank you very much. This is wonderful. Thank you very much for the very straight forward guide.

Fantastic. Love it. Consider a Super Thanks, using my affiliate links. or becoming a Member, to help keep me going. ⭐️

Thanks so much! Means allot. Happy to help. Feel free to share it. Consider my Udemy Course "3D Rundown" 3DRUNDOWN.COM

oh the irony

Epic. Happy to help. In my experience, most people go about this wrong. I do my best to help right the ship!

Thanks so much! Makes my day.

Awesome. I love hearing that. Welcome to the channel. Consider a Super Thanks, or becomming a Member, to help me, continue to help others. :)

Very welcome! Love to hear this. Consider a "Super Thanks" to help keep this channel going. :)

Thanks so much. There is ALLOT to see here! I teach as if I'm teaching myself.... I need to be talked to, as if I'm 5. 😂🤣 Welcome. :)

Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a RU-vid Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM

Welcome! Great to get you going. Consider this one as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pP36ozrfRQ0.html

I think my methods are better than the other ump-teen nerds. 🤜🏼🤛🏼

Thanks much! Sagging Gantry is not a typical problem, but, it is a problem that certainly CAN exist. I cover that in another video, in the Troubleshooting play list. That said, it's the opposite. RIGHTY LOWER, LEFTY RAISE. Tighten the Knob, to lower the bed. Loosen the Knob, to RAISE the bed.

I promise, this is the way. Let me know how you do! S1+ is a great machine. Prints adult size masks in Silk Silver, cleaner than my P1P

My other printer is a ender 3 v2 Neo and I’m going to have to level it this way too. I tried a silky Pla in it and I’ve had nothing but problems so I’m going to start over with leveling and watch more videos about working with it. After I change the nozzle.

Almost everything I print is Silk PLA. You'll be OK, but yes... this is the way, friend. :) Good luck!

Very welcome. Happy to get you rollin!

Nope. Can do it with no Filament at all

Welcome. :)

Thanks so much!

Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "💗THANKS" button Become a RU-vid Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM

Welcome to the party. Stick around. This part will take you some time. Be patient. Move slowley. Learn how to feel it out... You'll get there. :)

Thanks so much! I'm considering adding more. Learn with me on UDEMY: "3D RUNDOWN" 3DRUNDOWN.COM

I got you! Consider checking out the "Pinned Comment" on this video, to help keep this channel going. :)

I would use CURA. It's the most commonly used, AND.... I teach it. :) ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/ Check out the Pinned comment on that video, to see if maybe can help keep me going. :)

You can manually heat the hot end at the machines screen. Poke around and you will find it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Oc-hf02POFg.html

My way works. 👍🏼

Very welcome. Thanks for being here

When printing from a PC there's an M420 s1 command you need to add to the start g code under preferences-printers in the supplied Cura software. Credit Ricky Impey This tells the machine to use the bed mesh in the current print when using a USB cable. Not necessary if printing the file from an sd card in the slot I guess.

@@keithhoughton4308 Ah well that makes a difference then - there was no mention of not needing to do this if printing of a card ( which I always do ) on Ricky Impeys video.

@@gcshawkey It must remember it has just completed a self levelling otherwise what would be the point? Another good tip when tramming is to get rid of the small blob of solidified filament left at the tip by heating, removing the filament supply and then wipe the tip with a cloth. If, like me, you are on the spectrum, you can heat up the bed to take expansion into account. Happy tramming!

You will want to add M420 S1, after G28. I teach this in my course (3DRundown.com), that this video is from. S1 beds are awful. I replaced my S1 and S1 Plus bed, with Glass

Since I'm seeing it like 10 times i noticed that after the bed leveling you had 3mm offset and when you start to print out the test file you had 1 mm . Why is that ? I have the same model and when i try to level the bed, im tighting the springs before the procedure with the wheels i cannot go any lower than 5mm and i have to go more lower to reach the paper.

It's possible that it's an editing thing, (such as reshooting something, because the sound sucked, Focus Sucked, etc) but I'm not sure. I'd have to watch it again. Keep in mind, it doesn't show the actual Z-OFFSET till it's printing. IF your having to bring the Z-OFFSET down super far, you can raise the bed instead, by loosening the knobs.

I never remove the plate. Let it cool and can usually work the model off easily. Even on adult masks. But, if have to pull or push on the model, it's can certainly ruin things, as even a 0.02mm changes can effect stuff. Check out my tuning video for your other stuff

Very welcome!

If it's lose enough that you feel like it can move, it probably will. They should be firm enough to stay put. You could tighten that wheel till it feels better, then tram the rest to it.

Welcome! Appreciate you. 🙏🏼🙏🏼

Yessir! Sadly, not everyone is blessed with a brain that comprehends these principles, and, even less, make an actual effort to learn. I try to help....

@@3DRundown You're doing a great job! Keep doing it! There is a saying that „a person learns all his life and still dies stupid” 🤷🏼‍♂️

I feel stupid on a regular basis. Always learning

@@3DRundown Hi again! I leveled the hotbed using your method - without any comparison to the basic method or the advice of others on RU-vid. You rulezz! Additionally, I replaced the springs with orange ones from Creality and the knobs with aluminum ones (I also have silicone washers instead of springs - have you used them? Are they better than springs?). Very important: I additionally screwed clamping nuts onto the spring screws, because I discovered that these screws are not secured by anything at the factory and they start to twist very quickly, so from that moment on, leveling will never work again! After leveling, my hotbed is kind of concave in the middle and before auto-leveling, the nozzle distance in the center is greater than at the edges. Although I have the impression that after subsequent levels this disproportion decreases. And when I start printing, the nozzle literally moves against the hotbed and then during printing I have to increase the Z value in the settings. Then the prints come out very accurate. Do you have any advice for this?

I don't like the Silicon, or the locking nuts. I want the ability to adjust at any time. They shouldn't move. I almost never touch my knobs. You'll get better with experience. If the knobs are moving, you may have your bed too high. Start your tramming with them a little lower, which will have the knobs tighter against the spring pressure. they will stay put. Z-OFFSET is only for the very 1st layer. After that 1st layer, the machine will move up the correct layer height. If it's hitting the bed, your Z-OFFSET is too low. Z-OFFSET will always be the last thing you do, after any change, no matter how small. You can use a SKIRT or the 1st layer of a print, to dial it in. If your afraid it may hit the bed, just start with the Z-Offset higher, and then move it down to a working height diring Skirt or 1st layer

It's your Z-Offset. Focus on that

Set the Z Offset LAST.

Do this, to practice: How to adjust your Z Offset on a 3D Printer. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-veZB415QHM0.html

@@3DRundown Hey Man thanks so much for the quick replay and videos your AWSOME.

Good to have you. You'll develop methods and feelings, for this, and over time, it will become easier for you. Stay patient. It's part of the game, especiialy with these older machines.

Well Ive been leveling my bed the same way for months and all of a sudden I cant get it right to save my life. They are fairly new printers Ender 3 s1 pluses. The only thing I havent tried is your recomended test print for z.

Your springs are too tight. Loosen them to raise the bed. Re-Tram (SMALL adjustments on the knobs) , then Z-Offset.

Epic, Thank you! Means allot, and super helpful. 🤜🏼🤛🏼

@@3DRundown so it felt like the printer kept losing the leveling,even though i was sure i had leveled it properly the prints wouldn't stick to the bed.turns out i had run auto leveling first THEN manually leveled it.I was about to reassemble the whole thing over that lmao

much smaller movements on the wheels, Down on one side, will bring the other side up. make a few passes, making very small movements

@@3DRundown Ok, thank you for helping me!

nvm i had removed the wire going to the nozzle and did not put it back

👍🏼👍🏼

Thanks so much!

Thanks so much! For more, hop onto my Udemy course, and private FB Group! 3DRUNDOWN.COM

Not a leveling thing. It's a Z Height thing. Have to adjust your Z-Offset, during -st layer of a print, then save it

I do z offset with only the bed hot.

Because I want to reduce the amount I need to raise the bed, just to level it. If I don't bring the Nozzle to the bed, I need to bring the bed to the Nozzle. Moving the Nozzle is easier

@@3DRundown That makes sense. I've seen this a couple of times and was puzzled by what seemed counter-intuitive logic. Thanks for the response - much appreciated. (new to 'proper' 3d printing)

It will only return to your Z-Offset when: PRINTING Manually moved to "0"

They come stock, on the S1 Plus. Here they are: amzn.to/3LPCDHz

Yessir. But I do like to manually save just incase

Adjust your Z Offset WHILE it's printing. *Only on the 1st Layer*. After the 1st layer, Z Offset doesn't matter

@@3DRundown I did. My cat print came out beautiful. I don’t want to have to adjust the z every time I print but at least I know what number to put it on 🤷🏻‍♂️

You don't. Set it, and forget it. Just click SAVE on the screen in the firmware.

That's your Z Offset. Lower during 1st layer it till it's good

Yes. Z-Offset is always your final move

Is the crtouch functional? Does it self test, when turned on? Is it blinking red

I try to find the right balance of Nerd. 😂😂 If you find your bed is just too low, you can raise it a bit, then re-tram it, Set your Z Offset, run an ABL. But, better yet: before you start a print, to finalize your Offset, manually bring it to Zero, with paper under it, then adjust your Z Offset to meet the paper. When you start a print, that's where the Nozzle will be, and you can baby step from there, Rather than panicking as it grinds into the glass.

@@3DRundown thank you - i can to same conclusion - bring it a little up and start again. but you can't store the z-offset it is properly done automatic, but you can lift the Z -offset manually when printing

Dug in cause Z-Offset too low. Your knobs are too tight, making the bed too low, and flexing your hot plate

Why go through the tedious self-leveling, and then do auto? The auto made the distance too far again..These machines are just finicky..no wonder such a small number of people do this 3d printing.🤣

Take my Course.... that is exactly why I madr it: 3DRUNDOWN.COM Also, tell you a secret, I shot this video the first time I ever did this on a P1P, and only 3 days after getting it. I'm learning the P1P just like you guys. You can do it! 👍🏼✌🏼

@@3DRundown Thanks for your kindness but truly 3d printing is only for people who want to spend hundreds of hours learning how to do this from scratch..or maybe this creality s1 pro is garbage. Wtf? 10 years on and the manufacturers cannot make a bed to remain level??? I would pay 5 times more for plug and play. This printer is like driving a car and stopping every 5km to fiddle with the engine..pure waste of time. newbies should know that after 3 days of watching videos and 20 hours over 3 days, they may have absolute nothing to show for it..nothing!!!..I have tweaked all settings one by one and still not able to get past 8 percent before the the pattern moves around..tweaking temp, z, bed, retraction, cleaning bed, etc..WASTE OF TIME!!! ONLY FOR HOBBYIST with hundreds of free hours to spend and enjoys fixing stuff.. I do not have the luxury. I do not want to be an Ender mechanic. After 3 days use will sell it. I will try another brand to see if better..otherwise I will wait until these machines become plug and play. Thanks.

@@billbrown994 Bed leveling is an issue because aluminum warps with temperature. If you do not use the heating option, you will have less problems with warping, but more with adhesion. Also at the price point the printer is still a compromise. Professional solutions cost a lot of $$$. I do not understand why your pla is sliding, my printer worked fine out of the box. Since buying it in November I have been printing almost daily using PLA and PETG. PLA seems very easy to print with. PETG is a bitch sometimes because of stringing, but after some tuning the quality is great. My only issue with the printer was that learning to use CAD software takes more time than I'd like it to.

Only adjust Z Offset during 1st layer

No. It will always be a Negative #, with 0 being the starting point. What you've really done, is moved your Bed, away from the Nozzle's 0, so, we are moving the hot end, toward the bed, down, from 0.

just loosen the mount screws on the Sprite fan and adjust it upward. For the print being too high, set your Z-OFFSET. Follow me in this video on that

@@3DRundown Hello, Thank you the Z-offset was changed and now it is ok. About the fan, as the holes are round and only a very bit larger as the screw it is not possible to move the fan upwards a bit.

Loosen the entire sprite, and re-seat it.

The printer will home to 10mm. Z Offset is for Printing only. Loosen your knobs and raise the bed, if it's that low

Yea, loosen up the Sprite Hotend, and seat it better. It may be off it's mount, or tilted forward a touch. Loosen up the sprites mount screws, and see if can adjust it back a touch. Do the same for the fan.

Hi, they are indeed very different firmware. Here is my S1: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-raSW7cDGObg.html

@@3DRundown thank you 😊

Textured PEO Sucks. Use Glass, or Smooth PEI. Also, be sure the bed is clean. 99% of adhesion problems, is your BED NOT CLEAN, or Z-OFFSET too high. Did you set your Z-OFFSET along with me here on this video? Also: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pP36ozrfRQ0.html

Hey there. I got you: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yg2zVAakeGU.html

ABL compensates for inconsistencies. Did you follow my Tramming Video? No FF, no skipping steps? I would do that. Also, why test all 4 corners? Does the model you are printing use the entire bed? All 4 corners? Print the model.... adjust for it. If have issues. Don't go nuts with crazy test patterns. I've never even used one myself.

Also, have a peak at my Z Offset Video

Put your front side where you want it, bring the back side down to match. Bring your Z-Offset to match. Tram. Fine tune your Z Offset

@@3DRundown Thanks for replying. I finally did get all four corners even, but now the center point doesn't have any grip on the paper. I tried a test print anyway and got no layer adhesion. I really am thinking I got a defective print plate.

Did you run an ABL last? It will compensate for that.

Your Z Height (Z Offset) shouldn't be changing. During your first layer, baby step your Z-Offset down, till it looks and feels good. You should be able to rub the layer. *Save* and it should stay

Also, just checking.... make sure you don't have a Z Stop switch installed

@@3DRundown thanks for the reply mate. An update I checked the start G code default in cura for the Ender 3 pro, and there were 2 lines of G1 Z ( note says to avoid scraping the build plate.. which makes no sense if it's all leveled properly). Long story short, I deleted those completely. And now it seems my prints are okay

I would've skipped the "Pro" version for all the hustle. My Ender 3 stock has been chugging along perfectly. Besides the plastic nozzle cover I have. No complaints with it

You've gotta hit the "1" first

Raise the bed some with the knobs.

I think my zprobe is bad. I think it touches way to early.

So i can almost get past this if i tightwn my nobs down a bunch then lossen them after it homes. The issue is its gonna reset the z home higher after so im at a complete loss. I think i may just have to buy a new printer. Even though this one is out of box.

Ok i just spoke to my brother he mentioned you have to press the 1 location the. Level from there.

No such thing as too early. Too LATE would be the problem.

When you press home, it DOES NOT GO TO THE Z-OFFSET, it will park about 5-10mm off the bed. It will go to the Z-OFFSET, when you start a print, or, manually move back to 0.

Lower the Z Offset till the gap is NOT too big.

The z offset doesn't go that far down but I think I fixed it anyway.

It will go as low as you need it too. Could also raise the bed a little.

@@3DRundown ok I have thanks for the help

@@3DRundown But I keep occasionally hearing loud whiring/squeezing when the bed is moving when it's printing

No G29 JUST "M420 S1" after G28

@@3DRundown Thanks!

I prefer to do it manually. Only takes a few min and you are done. Whatever way you do it, you will want to set your offset LAST. The slightest change in Z-Height, will affect your 1st layer. Gotta dial it in last.

At the 2:30 mark of the video I do what you are doing but the z-axis is so high that I can not get it to grab the paper. It will not let me go past -5.00. Any idea what is going on? @@3DRundown

-5 is too much. You may have skipped through, and not seen the part where I used the knobs/springs to bring the bed UP toward the Nozzle, while it's at 0. Then, while the springs are still tight enough to stay put, start the Z adjustment again.

There is no need for the Nozzle, and the bed heat is more important on a glass bed

Which countdown? Hope I'm not missing a joke...

@@3DRundown no sorry I'm not joking. On my s1 pro I don't have the estimated printed time remaining. I only have time elapsed.

Yessir

Your ABL mesh should handle that, but, some peeps have had issues with S1 beds. Consider swapping to glass. My S1 Bed sucked. I did glass and never looked back

Hi, If you have good tramming, and a working Mesh (with ABL via CR-TOUCH, or BL-TOUCH), you should not need to adjust your knobs again for another print. You shouldn't need to touch them much at ALL. I would make sure you started from a snug enough position, that they aren't moving during the print. Also, if you have stock springs, I would upgrade to the Yellow Springs. They hold their tension much better

@@3DRundown Thank you. I trammed the bed earlier, this time tightening them more than my previous tram. After the ABL my print is still coming out good. I will not touch the adjustments and continue printing. I want to ask if it is a good idea to add ABL to the gcode in the slicer I am using for each print? I appreciate your time and help.

@@mattyt531 In order for your machine to use the Mesh, you need "M420 S1" after G28. I wouldn't have it run a level. Only do that when needed

I turn it off, as a shortcut to Disable the Steppers. Personally, I usually just disable the steppers. But, for a beginner. Turning it off is a sure way to know I get them to disable their steppers. Truth? Remove that bed, and replace it with Glass.

If you have a probe, you need to remove the Z Stop Switch.

It's an ender 3v2 with bl touch upgraded bed springs .. its the 4.2.7 version.

What firmware? What happens when it homes.

@3D Rundown Jeres bug fixes firmware.. when it homes it sits about 2 inches of the borad drops the pin then raises about half inch then stops

The PRO and PLUS, use the same screen and firmware. Your ABL & Z-OFFSET, save, you do not have to do it again. Make sure you have your G-CODE right. Check my video on GCODE

@@3DRundown ya, this was one that came with the printer I was trying to do... not sure why it wasn't saving, maybe I didn't wait long enough or something. it's printing fine for now but I have not shut it down yet.

So much easier and faster to do it manual. Can zip around and check many times quickly. I also don't trust the machine to move on it's own power, 100% accurately. I know if the steppers are off, and I just slide it over, it went without any micromovement up, down, crossways, whatever. But mainly, because... my method WORKS, so I stick to it. :)

I have heard the Stepper motors can build up a charge of static electricity in them and by pushing them too fast when switched off can damage them. I saw another Utube presenter reviewing a Laser engraver and pushed the laser along the axis and blew the motor during the review. I always push very slowly just in case. You should do some research just to be on the safe side. You don't want to be giving advise to people where they could damage there Stepper motors. Your review was quite good and thorough.

@@alanwright5437 Well, if being a top 6% Etsy shop, with 17 3D printers, that run around the clock 7 days a week, making HUNDREDS of items a week, being a "Top Rated" Udemy 3D Printing Instructor, and running 3D Printing Groups on FB, where 1000's of Printer Peeps, discuss this kind of thing (and turn to me for help), counts... I'll consider my research done. That said, yup, if you move a belt fast enough, your screen will turn on. We are making small, slow movements, one at a time. You do whatever you feel comfortable with.

Hi. Great video for initial setup but I'm not sure that the abl mesh is used when printing via USB. Isn't an M420 command required to tell it to use the mesh? Also, where is your 3mm z offset measured from?

@@keithhoughton4308 Yes. In CURA, in your GCODE, (or any other slicer), you will need M420 S1, after G28. I teach this is the CURA section, of my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM, which this video clip is from. Your Z Offset, is taken from ZERO. Watch my video again, where I Set the Z. HOME, MOVE TO 0, THEN move your Z down, till it's good. That is your #

PSH, we all done stuff like this! Glad I Could get you there. "SUPER THANKS?" :P

When it comes to Z-Height, Once the 1st layer is good, the rest is typically good as well, (unless you have a physical issue, causing problems with movement). Focus on getting a clean 1st layer.

@@3DRundown thanks. finishing up a benchy right now. so far it looks good

@@essentiallites7536 Super. I'm working on a lecture on "Supports" in Cura, to add to the course. Hopefully Tomorrow. Good luck with the Benchy!

@@3DRundown i was at 87% and it popped off the bed. not sure what happened. but besides that, it looks decent. just a couple strings. printing a cube now. still using the cheap creality filament also. have a kg of sunlu pla that ill be using

It happens. Could be a few reasons why. I would give the contact area a quick IPA wipe, and try again. ditch that Sample and use real PLA

Unless something has changes, the pro and plus don't have the wizard. But even still, I prefer to feel it out myself, but you can totally use it. It can be a little slow, especially to use it for an initial setup. It's faster to use it for an adjustment after. But, mainly, I try to teach methods anyone cam use.

@@3DRundown I'm using the pro firmware by mriscoc on my standard S1 Thanks for your videos. I think a glass bed is going to be needed to fix my issues. Still having problems after tramming, creating a 9x9 mesh and setting z-offset

MRISCOC makes great firmware. The S1 has some weird ABL issues. My S1+ doesn't have any problems at all, but my S1, is a pain to get a working mesh. Glass is def best, IMO.

No, touch screen kinda sucks. I left the knob screen on my S1. It has better firmware options. This S1+ comes with the touch screen, I still use it.

@@3DRundown thx for saving me from a useless touch screen rabbit hole ;)

Warm is ideal, but more so with Glass, because of it's expansion and contraction.