I need to know where you got your control arms, currently gathering up all the parts to do this too my 06 4x4 Sierra but having issues finding control arms
So it's preferable get the lower control instead of the upper? Cuz I have a problem i got the oem parts but if I drop the front and i got a negative camber
It really depends on what you're using the truck for. A 4/6 is "more practical" but a 5/7 looks really nice. You're going to have to keep in mind as well that you will be blowing through axle boots the lower you go. I like mcgaughys brand stuff because they're consistant and made in the US. DJM is a good brand as well.
It was all good til we got to the rear cutting and welding part....well shiit anyways, I won't be doing this on my own.! Great video. Thank you SUBSCRIBED !
On a scale of "must avoid pebbles on the road" to "I never notice it's dropped", how tough is this thing to live with in terms of speed bumps, steep curbs, ramp transitions ets?
It’s a cautious back out of the driveway at a specific angle and a go over speed bumps one tire at a time kind of low. Still drivable on decent roads but avoid big potholes.
What shockes you guys used in the front. And what drop spindles you guys used i got the flick kit and the arms you guys used. Just cant find the right shocks or spindles
Every one of my cars and trucks outside r Lowing I recently brought a 96 Chevy Z71 a lot of people telling me that I cannot lower the front I was wondering where did you buy your parts from
Hi I was wondering if you ever heard of or can I flip my torsion key upside down on my s10 because I need at least another inch lower up front I have the torsion bolts unscrewed all the way .. any suggestions?
Yea you can from what I've found it would be a good idea to dimple they key the same as the factory does on the side the adjustment bolt will be touching, that and blocks is all you need to lower s10s or blazers, it's actually cheaper and more proper than lowering a 2wd front end lmao
REALLY low cars do go through axles more frequently only because they get somewhat “stretched” because of the angle. At least my 240sx does. Lucky o’Reilly axles have lifetime warranty.
I don't haul much but I am short. How low might I go without bottoming out as someone mentioned or scraping backing out of drive? Front and rear and how to accomplish? Thanks a million!!
The only real “problem” is ripping the boots off the front axles. The fix for that would just be shortening where that boot clamps do own on the axle. You could probably achieve that sort of stance with drop keys and spindles just fine.
Guys I had a “fab shop” tell me last week they couldn’t drop my 2000 1500 z71 because of cv’s. I knew it was bullshit. Can you post your parts numbers so I can transfuckulate my box closer to the street plz,if no numbers maybe a Co name drop for arms and shit
An axle flip kit will get you the 6” roughly. These front a arms are advertised as a 3” drop but due to the price I would recommend just the spindles up front and the lowering keys. Just depends on your budget.
one side... www.summitracing.com/parts/djm-ca2602l-3p/ ... the other side www.summitracing.com/parts/djm-ca2602l-3d/ ... the part references as a 4x4 or a 2500 it’s for torsion bar trucks only ( obviously). Thanks for watching and I hope those links work for what you’re doing.
I just dropped my front end 4 inches and I toke it to a Alignment shop and they telling me that they can’t do it, and said 4x4 are not meant to be lowered and I’m like fuck you 😂
LNS KUSTOMS one side... www.summitracing.com/parts/djm-ca2602l-3p/ ... the other side www.summitracing.com/parts/djm-ca2602l-3d/ ... the part references as a 4x4 or a 2500 it’s for torsion bar trucks only ( obviously). Thanks for watching and I hope those links work for what you’re doing.
Bought a lowered '95 4 door dually with a 12 valve swap... (why? I dunno...) It will scald the rear tires until you're sick of doing it, accelerate like God shot you out of a slingshot, make every kid under 20 drool... but you can't carry a 12 pack of beer in the back (suspension bottoms out), point it in a straight line (suspension again, I assume), or make a U-Turn in anything less than an empty WalMart parking lot. It's as useless as tits on a boulder... But it STILL makes more sense than lowering a 4x4 pickup and putting goofy rims with the rubber band tires on 'em. I can't wait to sell the only lowered truck I'll ever own!
I really want to lower my 1998 ford f150 4wd but man there's no drop kit for them or anything just for 2wd, so here I am to get a general point of view of how it's done
one side... www.summitracing.com/parts/djm-ca2602l-3p/ ... the other side www.summitracing.com/parts/djm-ca2602l-3d/ ... the part references as a 4x4 or a 2500 it’s for torsion bar trucks only ( obviously). Thanks for watching and I hope those links work for what you’re doing.
So im on this video because I drive a lowered 4x4 maybe 5 or 4in drop up front and I activated my 4L yesterday and my right axle snapped out lol. Is there any way of being able to have my 4x4 work fine and still be as low as I am
@@Lazurite1 we never had a problem with axles snapping... I'm thinking though, that maybe shorter axle shafts need to be used. Like, they may be too long and binding inside the stub axles. But, that doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me, because they're fine when the 4wd is not engaged. Just a thought.
I have a 2011 Sierra Z71 4x4 dropped 5/7 since 2016 and still in good shape. I launch in 4 hi all the time and have a heavy foot. I say this is the max if you want your axles and boots too last.
Chris Kladky in all seriousness... there really isn’t a “good” reason. If you like lowered trucks and want it to handle in the snow, maybe. Or you have a high HP engine and want to be fast on all four legs.
