Thank you Jeff. I'm on your mailing list. As always you show the easiest most straight forward way to do things. This is a nice gesture to helping us DIY guys.
excellent jeff!!i did this on my 19 ktm 500exc as well as the enduro engineering low soft seat and you are right it was a game changer!so much more confidence and control! thank you!
Well said at the end and i endorse it 100%... I am 5.6 and struggled to gain confidence on trails but once the were lowered man it made so much difference... What you gain by lowering is far more good than what you lose... Very well explained video mate thanks
Man you are awesome! Thank you so much for sharing this info. I was ready to ship out my suspension even though I k ew I could do it if I just had a quick run through. Thanks so much for providing that!
Thanks for your insights Sir! I want to lower my tall bike and have just become aware of the “low shock build” concept you describe herein. But I am also aware of the idea of just using lowering links for the same purpose. My concern in that I read one negative comment re the latter proposition that suggested lowering links were a bandaid solution at best. I don’t understand the difference between the two concepts and would be grateful for your comments. Thank you.
Hi, I have a Honda CB300R and I'm thinking of lowering it but don't have the knowledge. Does changing the spring retainer to lower the height the same as this or would changing the stock spring retainer different from this and would it have any disadvantages?
Thanks for another excellent video! Can you comment on what you do for a spring once this kit is installed? Do you install a lower spring rate? If not, have you found you can accommodate the lowering kit by adjusting rebound and compression settings?
The spring rate stays the same assuming you have the correct rate installed. The sag should be reduced a little. Sag should always be set at 1/3 of the overall travel.
Just seeing this video a year and a half later. I am very impressed with how simple it was to do, so thanks for the easy to follow video. Can you supply these lowering kits or do we need to get from a dealer? I am in Africa - many thanks
All of our videos have links below the video in the description section. Or you can us this link >>> slavensracing.com/shop/rear-suspension-lowering-kit-for-kyb-wp-showa-by-zeta/
Thanks for the video Jeff. How do you go about figuring what your new rider sag measurement should be? Say, if you had it set at 110mm before, how do you figure what to set it to after? Is it just as simple as subtracting the thickness of the Zeta pieces or something else?
@@slaverace1 ok but the 2022 ktm as 310 mm of travel and you put in 10 mm piece in PDS, that means you should ajust the SAG acording to 300 mm or 280 mm because the all bike is lowered 30 mm?
Thanks Jeff, Two questions. 1) Noticed the shock shaft went down when you pushed the seal down. After getting the spacer and circlip in, should you then pull the shaft back up to max height with the spacer up to the circlip? This will create the max volume for oil. Then push the piston to the original position? If not, won't more oil come out when you push the piston back to original position without pulling the shock shaft up? 2) I installed a bladder in place of the piston. What if anything different is needed if I put the spacer in the shock? Do I then need to play with the pressure or reduce the amount of oil? Then how do I determine to change the amount of oil or pressure? Thank you, Scott
The location of the shaft is irrelevant because the fluid flows through the shaft bleed regardless of its location. The seal head gets pushed back into position when I push in on the reservoir piston. The best thing you can do is remove the bladder and re-install the piston. Bladders downgrade performance because the nitrogen penetrates the rubber and ends up in the oil making it similar to beer foam. They also change the oil to nitrogen ratio (not good) and usually have poor quality Schrader valves that leak. They are nothing more than a marketing scam.
@Love Sports YES, You are correct. As the shaft goes into the body it Does displace more oil into the piston accumulator. The seal head Did Not get moved back into position because he already removed the filler/bleed screw. Perhaps he forgot this time as he was distracted by videoing...
If a specific bike, in this case a '20 KTM350XC, has an application kit for the shock but not for its forks, I don't imagine it's recommended to just raise the tubes in the triple clamp by an inch or so to match the rear/balance the bike back out. Thoughts for that scenario?
If the tubes are raised an inch, the tire will hit the fender and stop the wheel rotation when you bottom the suspension. There is no cheap solution on XC models with AER forks. The spindle must be shortened and re-threaded by a machinist. We offer the machining service.
Thank you Jeff, I am also curious, can 2 of these be installed in one shock? Lowering bike around the 60mm mark? I want to fit a wp rear shock to beta xtrainer but would need two lowering rings stacked, is that possible ?
Hi Jeff. I want to do this on an old Honda XR250. I think it’s the original shock , i.d. of the shock is 45mm. But there is no drain bolt for the oil. Can I still use the zeta lowering piece? Thanks
Hi ...shouldn't you also pull shock shaft up after installing the spacer and clip to seat in same position as where you measured depth of piston? Otherwise you will be draining off too much oil...Joe
The forks need shortened the same amount as the shock to keep the bike in balance. That requires an internal mod. That video will be posted soon. Stay tuned.
@@specializedbighitfsr This video just shows how to install the Zeta Low Down kit which lowers the back of the bike 30mm. This kit is NOT for balancing the stinkbug stance on 2017-19 models. We have a Stink Bug killer for that. slavensracing.com/shop/stink-bug-killer-slavens-racing/
Looks like that letting the nitrogen out is necessary for lowering, but what if I'm going back to normal and removing that spacer out? Do I still need to let the nitrogen out?
Jeff, one thing I think you missed. After the spacer is in place, you need to put some air pressure on the reservoir to seat the seal head. If you don't, the reservoir gap will probably be way off. I'm doubtful that you really had 25mm+ of piston displacement from installing the spacer.
The video editor must have trimmed 2 seconds too much because the sealhead was reset when I pushed on the reservoir piston with the special tool. There is no need to pressurize it and the piston was displaced by the thickness of the spacer which is NOT 25mm.
I don't mention the brand because it is irrelevant. The video is about installing the Zeta lowering kit which is available for many brands of shocks. A link to the product and fitment information is in the video description.
Easier install since the part is a 2 piece design, no need to completely disassemble shock internals like with the stinkbug killer (1 piece design) no re-bleeding of the rear shock needed (unless you accidentally sucked in air or pushed out too much oil when resetting the IFP/oil level) Also, Zeta kit lowers seat height by 30mm where as the stinkbug killer lowers seat height by 19mm.
Thanks Jeff, When setting the piston height, does shaft position matter? I'm guessing fluid volume is constant, and the Ni reservoir cushions big hits until fluid volume equalizes? I got in over my head, lol that piston wouldn't move and then it did, you would of had a good laugh. I'm bleeding without a highend system by watching other youtubers(sometimes not the best, lol). When moving the shaft up and down, shaft in pushes fluid out(path of easiest resistance) so I'm sure getting air out below the piston is hard. I need to some how move piston down, thinking of pushing the top of it down, how fragile is the piston? Thanks for the video!!
