How to make a CONCRETE DRAGON FRUIT TRELLIS ( STEP by STEP ) / My PERSONAL DESIGN / NEW and IMPROVED 

Hey Paul, love your videos. I’m an engineer. From an engineering standpoint, the rebar down the middle of the post doesn’t help add much strength to the concrete. The center of the post feels zero of the tensile load in bending. The rebar is there to add tensile strength to the concrete. That’s why they put rebar around the edges. As close to the outward edges but still in far enough to prevent exposure to rusting. I would do 3 rebars around the inside perimeter about 1/2 inch from the edges to keep the post from cracking during a storm. This way, the rebar will be able to take the tensile load and the concrete will take the compressive load. Concrete is only strong in compression. Technically the pipe itself adds to the tensile strength around the perimeter also, so maybe you don’t even need rebar. Time will tell. Try a few the way I suggested and see which ones work better few years later! Hope this helps!

Hey bud, that rebar will rust over time and weaken the post from the center. If you must use the pvc I wouldn’t use rebar the pipe should give good support. I would cap the top and fill it upside down. Then dig the 2’ hole and compact it in around the post. For beginners using fast set will give them problems. Having all the concrete around the bottom of the post will block the roots coming through the bottom of the pot. The roots will want to follow the water out the bottom. Come check us out this summer I will show you how and why we setup our trellises. Love your channel lots of good info keep them coming. Mateo

Wind proof for sure. I’m sure the dragons appreciate being solid as well. Looking good bro !!!!! Love the videos

Why did you get rid of the white pots Paul? For aesthetic reasons?

This is a big waste of material, specifically the plastic and burlap are unneccessary. Since you are using concrete, the plastic pipe is really just to create a concrete form. However, now you are having to wrap with burlap which will rot away anyhow. You just use two form boards (cast on plastic sheet) and pour a proper concrete post. The DF clings to concrete just fine and the wood form can be used over and over. No waste, no plastic, no burlap. The wire tops simply won't work in a coastal location, they will rust out very quickly. Design a concrete form and make concrete tops with holes. I used a disc form but have seen rectangular. The form for post should have a ~3 inch square "peg" at the top and a matching square hole in the top piece so the top just slips on, no fasteners needed, nothing to rot or rust out. The post is lifetime, only rebar and concrete, two materials needed. If gophers aren't a problem, no need to put concrete around post, just tamp it in with water and no need for pot. This design uses so many unnecessary materials, most of which won't last the life of the DF plant. Plastic will probably be cracked up in 10 years from UV deterioration.