I actually prefer this method over just dados for cabinet construction. I use the dado stack to cut the slots. For the stick pieces, I use the tongue side of a tongue and groove bit set with the bottom cutter set under the table top. This helps a lot with not-so-great plywood that either has inconsistent laminate flaws or a slight bow. This also lets me set up the whole job in one set.
If you pull the fence handle back toward you when traversing the fence, it will stay engaged to the rail at two points and will not move at all when you lock down the handle at the third point. This is true of all Biesemeyer style fences.
Darbin, a good how to BUT you didn't mention the need for a flat grind blade otherwise you won't get a flt bottom on the dado. It sounds like there is a party going on in the background.
You don’t need a sled. You don’t need a marking gauge unless you have a real bad memory Your board is 4.8? Set the blade height 2.4 and the fence 2.4. That’s it. Make your cuts and no need to move your fence ir blade height
