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How to Make a Perfect Jacket Dart without Puckering

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Here is a full, detailed and practical tutorial on making a crisp and perfect dart on a bespoke jacket frony.
This technique will help you to get nice dart without puckering each time, on your tailored jackets, waistcoats and overcoats.
In this video we go through the whole process, step by step, from cutting to finishing & pressing the dart.
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Опубликовано:

4 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 167

@mmills5951 7 месяцев назад

Wow! I’ve been sewing for 50 plus years and I’ve never seen this before! Excellent craftsmanship sir! Thank you

@Lisargarza 7 месяцев назад

Same here. That’s so cool!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for such a great comment. That is the beauty of tailoring (and commuinty) we never stop learning each other. There will never be a time when I can say: 'okay, now I know everythig' 😉

@bigk5837 7 месяцев назад

Same - mind blown! Thank you for sharing this awesome technique 🥰

@michellebergeaux2290 7 месяцев назад

My mind was blown too. I’ve been sewing for 40 plus years as well. THANK YOU!

@makeshiftsavant 7 месяцев назад

I'm a programmer. I'm never going to do this. However, that was excellent and so cool.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you, such a cool comment. 🙌🏻 You`d be surprised, but I have quite a few students from IT who do tailoring as a hobby on a decent level. Amazing people, I have met an incredible programmer-engineer who is very talanted & precise. So, it is always a chance you'll get into tailoring at some point 😉

@quitethesoph3558 7 месяцев назад

It makes so much sense to dart this way. Thank you for the tutorial! I sew dresses and have never seen this process done before, so I'm excited to use it. Thank you!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you, I am so happy my videos go beyond men's tailoring and help more people 🙌🏻

@musikkfamilien 7 месяцев назад

I start at the widest, and go to the narrowest. Just running down and past the fabric. Not backstitching. Making a couple of knots with the tread. Works fine. But maybe on heavier garments like jackets/coats, this method is convenient. Thank you, though. 👏

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

It is a matter of habit I guess, I got used to making the jacket ones from top to bottom. But, the trouser ones I also sew from the widest part down to the point.

@charliegualtieri9627 7 месяцев назад

I only have an old hand crank machine, so I didn't blink an eye when you finished the line by turning it around and going back over your stitching. I feel like the original sewing machine makers knew something we didn't!

@piccalillipit9211 7 месяцев назад

NEVER seen it before today - and this is the 2nd video... Amazing.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

They were trying to save us from unnecessarily 'fat' back tacks 😂

@ktrmeadow 7 месяцев назад

Highest professional technical level

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

You are so kind, thank you so much 😊

@piccalillipit9211 7 месяцев назад

*IVE BEEN USING THIS* for a couple of years, but I was not running the stitch through so I was getting a "good" finish but not the perfection you are - THANK YOU...!!! You got a sub...!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for the sub! I`m working on some new tutorials already 👌🏻

@piccalillipit9211 7 месяцев назад

@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR Exceptionally clear and well-explained tutorial - the thumbnail was perfect as my darts are 90% but just not that 100% perfect as the one in the thumbnail thats what made me click. And you clearly explained that it is my thread locking that is causing the problem - the video is perfection.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

@@piccalillipit9211 Thank you for pointing that out, my main principle is that thumbnail has to show the exact thing you are getting in the actual video, without any misleading nonsense.

@lazygardens 7 месяцев назад

I have never seen that technique ... looks superb. I've seen strips of tulle or organza used as dart-starters, but this is a bit different. It avoids the issue of cutting the dart open to press it flat, and then having it fray.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you, glad it is helpful. There is another method with two attachable pieces, but I don`t like it, turns out a bit thick in my opinion. And you are totally right, squishing dats is not a good idea, especially on heavier fabrics, like overcoat.

@jackielask1123 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for the lesson! Dart points are challenging for me. This method is fantastic!

@anneburland5306 7 месяцев назад

Beautiful craftsmanship! I started sewing darts from the tip, w/o backstitching (I would just knot the tails) years ago, with much better results, but I never knew, of course, about adding the extra piece of fabric. I was always concerned that I might be sewing against the grain, but the reduction in puckering spoke for itself. Thank you!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you! I am happy it helps. The grain direction is the most durable and stable, let's say, so now worries here. 🙌🏻

@inotherwords14 7 месяцев назад

Wow!! I can't wait to try this. My darts have always puckered. This solution is genius. Pure artistry. Thank you!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thanks, you are too kind! I hope the method works for you. 👍🏻

@TheHare-rv3hj 7 месяцев назад

That is very impressive, and I have no idea what you just did. That's why there are masters such as yourself.

@fritula6200 7 месяцев назад

I also have no idea, but it looked beautifully done...wow!

@GiselleBel 7 месяцев назад

I like a balanced dart! You don't see them described often, and I have to say that the only examples I saw were for coats in thicker materials where pressing the dart to one side gives the garment a very homemade look. Because there is nothing under the side of the dart that you pressed the material away from. I take it that you cut horizontal at the lower end of the dart because the pocket will go there? I don't do much menswear.

@slrcouture 6 месяцев назад

This is a great tip for bespoke tailoring. One thing I've learned as a sewist is to take my time when sewing darts. I've never used a back stitch for darts. I learned to sew them well by drawing out my dart mark and use a basting to ensure they are aligned. I start at the widest part is the dart using a standard stitch. Once I get close to the end of the dart, I tighten the stitch length in increments. That has always rendered me a perfectly sewn dart in any garment. Of course pressing and a clapper is a must to finish off the process.

@Angela-382 7 месяцев назад

It's immensely pleasurable to watch precision tailoring, it's an artform. Thank you for sharing your skill with us 😊

@imenabbasi8772 7 месяцев назад

I just discovered your channel, I want to learn how to make coats with circle bottom and jackets for women, thank you for sharing

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

You are welcome. 🙌🏻 I specialise only on men's tailored classical garments: trousers, jackets, waistcoats and overcoats. But i hope you'll learn something useful on the channel, more tailoring content to come.

@charliem6335 7 месяцев назад

Amazing seeing a true professional work his magic!!! Thank you.

@scalare70 7 месяцев назад

I sew a lot of 'bunad' (Norwegian traditional outfit) and sew good darts - but this.... This was just an amazingly smart and clever way of sewing a nice (!!) dart! Thank you for this video! Much appreciated 🤩

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you! Jsut googled 'bunad', love it, the contrast of embroidery with dark colored cloth is a pure class. I always thought tailors who do traditional outifits are on another level: all the details, embroidery and also there is no way to cut corners or simplify things. 🙌🏻

@SMartypAntsPants 7 месяцев назад

Fantastic tutorial. Thank you.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for the fantastic feedback, I appreciate it. 🙌🏻

@SMartypAntsPants 7 месяцев назад

@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR You're very welcome. You are an excellent tailor and tutor. You deserve the recognition. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

@@SMartypAntsPants You are too kind ☺

@oksolomia 7 месяцев назад

Fantastic tutorial. It really works .Thank you.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for your feedback, I really appreciate it!

@sbaumgartner9848 7 месяцев назад

You did a prefect job. Thanks.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you so much for the feedback ❤️

@constancegarcia8053 7 месяцев назад

Thank you! ❤ I will look into your other vlogs as well.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Pleas do! There is lots of usefull tailoring stuff, plus I`m shooting a lot more right now 💪🏻

@prontogolf 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for clearly demonstrating this technique. I appreciate your precise description of the steps. Peace.

@BeachPeach2010 7 месяцев назад

Brilliant! It's worth it to go the extra mile, we deserve it!

@meyberalvarochugarblacutt6127 3 месяца назад

The best video i ever see thank you so much sir

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 2 месяца назад

Thank you for such a nice comment, subscribe for more. 🙌🏻

@pauljones4835 7 месяцев назад

This was excellent! Thank you so much for taking the time to create such clear instructions.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for the comment, stay tuned for more, I hope new ones will be also helpful.

@user-qo3jh9mn1t 7 месяцев назад

Loved this video. I learned to sew from my mother and 4H. I went through a lot of effort and the end result wasn't worthwhile. This video encourages me to try again. Also love the calm tone. It makes concentrating on what you're doing much easier. I'm happy to subscribe.

@danielapena5595 7 месяцев назад

20/10 tutorial, thank u. You got a new sub 😊

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for the sub and for such a lovely feedback, stay tuned for more tailoring content. 🙌🏻

@hopscotchtop 7 месяцев назад

That makes so much sense. Thank you so much for sharing!

@viviancovington7813 7 месяцев назад

Excellent craftsmanship sir. 😊

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for such kind feedback 🙌🏻

@viviancovington7813 7 месяцев назад

My pleasure. Have a lovely day. 🥰

@bevtooth 7 месяцев назад

I was always taught to sew from the widest part down to the point. This is very interesting

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

It is a matter of habit I think, somehow the jacket ones are easier for me do from top to bottom. The trouser ones howerver I also sew from the widest part down to the point.

@umibrahim3479 7 месяцев назад

.. ممتااااااااز .. شكراً ..للفكرة الجميلة والرائعة .. هكذا أفكار عمليّة ومميزة لا يمكن أن توجد في كتب .. هذه خِبرات مع الممارسة بحب ومُتعة في العمل .. .. كانت عندي طرق أخرى لنهاية البانس .. ولكن هذه الطريقة أول مرّة أشوفها .. وهي أفضل وأنجح الطرق والنتيجة أدق .. وراح أعتمدها قريباً إن شاء الله .. شكراً للمحتوىٰ ..

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you!

@qormi1000 7 месяцев назад

Thank you so much for this excellent tip.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

You are so welcome! More usefull stuff to come.

@katet.3543 6 месяцев назад

Ahh this is beautiful! Thank you so much!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 2 месяца назад

Thank you for such a lovely comment ❤️

@dimitrie17 4 месяца назад

very well done, brother! thank you for sharing~

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 4 месяца назад

My pleasure, stay tuned for more.

@sarahkeller-vp6hq 7 месяцев назад

This is going to fix a skirt that I'm stuck on! Thank you!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

I am happy men's bespoke tailoring can help with the skirts as well 🤩

@zhabianozka8839 7 месяцев назад

Дякую! Гарно знято і зрозуміло!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

You are welcome. Радий що все зрозуміло 😉

@rebeccaredletter 7 месяцев назад

WOW! What a perfect finish!🙌🏻👏🏻 I have seen other tailors use a wooden block. What is the purpose of doing that? Thank you 🙏🏻

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

The wooden block is called 'a clapper', it is just a piece of polished wood (with no varnish!). After the pressing there is a residual steam & moisture inside the fibers, so the clapper absorbs it drying out the area.

@SAHILKHAN91972 7 месяцев назад

Hey can you show how draft 1940s full cut double pleated high waisted trousers ?

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Yeah, for sure. DM me in my Insta for details. 🤝

@NadoCrowFriend 7 месяцев назад

Excellent !

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you, more to come!

@Luxxen101 7 месяцев назад

Thank you! 😊

@maheshpatel5985 7 месяцев назад

Very nice...too good

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

You are too kind 🙌🏻

@kreasiumum 7 месяцев назад

Penjelasan yang mendetail dan cermat

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Terima kasih, I appreciat the feedback.

@tracybrewer3377 7 месяцев назад

Opps i have never seen this way before but from now will be doing it your way it looks perfect

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Yeah, every tailor has their own way, I got used to this one, never failуed me👌🏻

@fourthchute 7 месяцев назад

Very excellent tip -cant wait to try this method!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

I hope you`ll be pleased with the outcome 🙌🏻

@lifeofjoy9404 7 месяцев назад

Darts are in my worst nightmares!😱😭 This was really interesting!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

I hope, from now on those nightmares never bother you again 😉

@Rara-pr9wg 7 месяцев назад

Amazing and simple

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

You are tottaly right, it's pretty simple 😉

@oltrafitz 7 месяцев назад

Great job

@tshk3000 6 месяцев назад

That is so neat, thank you for tutorial! Will definitely try it. Do you have any tips for contour darts?

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 6 месяцев назад

Check out my other video on shirt darts, I hope it will be helpful: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nVWB8qzH7Zs.html

@gingertaibl8065 7 месяцев назад

Thank you

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for the feedback and subscription!

@fritula6200 7 месяцев назад

Love the scissors !!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

I love them too, pretty neat 😉

@martinevandenbroucke4825 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for the lesson.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for watching, stay tuned for more!

@user-yx5ex3ym5m 7 месяцев назад

Hi, thank you for this video, i've nvr seen this before, yes i would like to learn bespoke tailoring

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you! Just DM me on my Insta for the details.

@bwalyachilombo1377 19 дней назад

Very neat. Woow.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 6 дней назад

Thank you! 😊

@heyy13 7 месяцев назад

Really cool technique.

@lauramacqueen2332 7 месяцев назад

Absolutely beautiful!

@shahidhabib1702 7 месяцев назад

Never seen before great job .

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you! I am happy if it helps 🙌🏻

@blessedinthenameofjesusame7924 7 месяцев назад

Wow. Excellent!! Can this technique be also applied to dart in dresses?

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you. I am not an expert in dresses, I`m a menswear tailor. But If you use a piece of thin cotton or light lining as an attchment piece and if the dress is lined, covering the darts, I think yes, why not?

@HulisaniMukhumo 3 дня назад

How do I get more videos,I want to learn more about sewing the jacket pocket and collar

@nervensaege0873 7 месяцев назад

Thank you - what a perfekt work ❤

@solusman8200 7 месяцев назад

It's great, but only if the garment is lined, no? Do you have a method for unlined clothing?

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Yes, it is for lined and half-lined tailord jackets (and waistcoats). I have a video on how to make a shirt dart, so there I show a method I use for unlined garments: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nVWB8qzH7Zs.html

@solusman8200 7 месяцев назад

@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR ah thank youu 🙏🏽🙏🏽

@abutuanthonysunday83 7 месяцев назад

God bless for revealing this

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

I am happy to be helpful to my fellow tailors 💪🏻

@talllala 7 месяцев назад

Mind blown!🤯👍🏾

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

I`m hoping in a good way 😉

@createa.googleaccount713 7 месяцев назад

Bravo 👏 👏 👏 🏆🎖

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you so much 🙌🏻

@user-qq9xz8vx2m 7 месяцев назад

أتمنى الترجمة إلى العربية ..شكرا

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

I'll see what I can do

@r2547 7 месяцев назад

Hello! What do you do if you cannot hide the seams/remains of the dart inside the garment (suppose for some reason you would like to do a dart on a regular t-shirt)? Just trim those margins as closely as possible?

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Hi, great question. This method is mostly for lined and half-lined garments. I only make men's tailored garments but on ladie's jackets, trousers and lined skirts it works the same. I also have a video on how to make a shirt dart: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nVWB8qzH7Zs.html Check it out!

@lynetterene 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for sharing

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for the feedback, stay tuned for more 🙌🏻

@lynetterene 7 месяцев назад

@@BESPOKEEDUCATOR absolutely.....looking forward to learning more

@Divyansh-ll9np 6 месяцев назад

Make a video on Italian vega pants Cutting and Tailoring.....❤

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 5 месяцев назад

Please, DM or e-mail me for that!

@agam406 7 месяцев назад

Very interesting. But I proably won't sew anythning that thick and with a lining. What about light fabrics? Like for shirts and blouses? Any tips?

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Check out my other video on a striped shirt dart: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nVWB8qzH7Zs.html

@Anton-i9h 7 месяцев назад

Esto es maravilloso

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Gracias por su apoyo. 🙌🏻

@peterstratten3087 7 месяцев назад

Hi there I don’t have FB or Instagram - is there another way I could see about learning or enrolling on one of your courses?

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

Yes, of course, write me on my mail: bespokeeducator@gmail.com

@tracybrewer3377 7 месяцев назад

I did a clothing apprenticeship over 40 yrs ago and I have n

@BiGKiDRose 7 месяцев назад

Высший пилотаж

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

It is, indeed 😎

@inotherwords14 7 месяцев назад

What do you mean by "all necessary inlays are threadmarked"?

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

That is the one of preprations stages of the jacket: wbefore cutting, you chalk the jacket pattern and add inlays for future alterations. To separate the actual pattern outline from the added inlays, threadmarking (rows of sticking white threads) is used.

@MRantroad 7 месяцев назад

Hello what is the ruler you use? Don't think I have ever seen one similar to yours when looking online.

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

It is very common one: www.amazon.com/KUYYFDS-Graduation-Patterns-Clothing-Template/dp/B0C3M81DSM/ref=sr_1_11?crid=3VK0OZFOVNXH0&keywords=tailors+ruler+for+sewing&qid=1707311791&sprefix=tailors+ruler%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-11 Google 'tailoring curved ruler' and it will pop up eventually.

@mariajose5026 7 месяцев назад

Super!

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

You are Super for leaving the feedback! 🤩

@inotherwords14 7 месяцев назад

At 3:48, you say "before pressing it open, take your sharpest scissors and cut it a little bit more up to the attachment piece". It's not clear what you're cutting. Could you clarify that step, please?

@BESPOKEEDUCATOR 7 месяцев назад

I just cut the dart a bit more towards the bottom edge of attachment strip. Initially we cut 1/3 of it, just roughly, and then after the attaching the supporting piece I cut a bit more, up to the point where the attachment starts.