Harbor Freight PITTSBURGH Shower Valve Socket Wrench Set. Cut the one you need down to the length you need to fit in the spot. The size is either the 1-3/32 in, or 1-5/32 in. Can't remember. You'll find the one by trying them all. May have to hammer the flats flat with a punch as sometimes the socket won't slip over the IPR do to being bowed inward from the crimping process. You'll figure it out. Drill a new hole in the end that a 1/4" drive hardened extension will slide thru so you can have a nice long lever to crack the old one loose and torque the new one in. The cheesy lever/rod it comes with will just bend when you apply any amount of torque to it.
Subbed your channel to by the way, seems to me you've got alot golden gems regarding these late 90s 7.3 liters. Mine I was driving one day and decided to switch from rear to front fuel tank. Previous owner told me front tank was inoperable. But I tried it knowing the tank was full of fuel and a few additives. Anyway the truck ran good for about an hour and then fell on its face and barely stay runnin. I was close to home and nursed her on in. When it fell on its face filter light came on. I changed the filter and topped the bowl off with fuel and it started back up but would cut right off. I checked bowl, still full of fuel. Crank again and it would start run a minute or two and cut off. After I changed the filter I did switch back to rear tank that also was full. Now no matter which tank im on same thing it'll fire up run a minute or two and die. Im wandering if my fuel hose has a hole and is bleeding back? Idk then another topic I have an 05 6.0 and I'm losing injector contribution on 3,5,7 and sometimes 1. So whole passenger side bank. My ficm is good, my glow plug harness is shot. Mechanic told me no compression number 3 cylinder. I put bore scope in thru glow plug hole and my piston looks good two valves were open and 2 were closed. Im going to do a relative compression test to see what that gives me. Because the mechanic said 3 cylinder no compression and either was valve or piston related. So I want to see the drop out from relative compression verifying the no compression. Watching hpop and icp and ficm commands and states everything is doing what it ought to, except my injector contribution test when I toggle them I hear the pintle click. And after I start the truck I starts off losing injector 3 and then 5 and 7 and sometimes 1 then around 2000 rpm they'll come back.
Sounds to me on your 7.3 issue is the switch over valve between tanks is jacked up, clogged, sticking. Check fuel pressure. Maybe something is telling you ecm to shut everything off. On the 6.0....I had a 2005. I would set it on fire and save the headache and money. Otherwise have entire engine "bulletproofed" and start over. ICYMI...Ford sued Navistar over those faulty engines. They won. But didn't give one penny or help to the million people that owned vehicles with that engine. That's because normally nothing would happen until after the 100k mile factory warranty went out.
New subscriber. Hi buddy, I’ve got a 99 7.3 shuttle bus do you convert the inside? I liked your build? If so I can give you my number n talk prices. I’m in Dallas Tx. No issues in taking it out to ya
Thank you Manuel for subscribing. I'm sure you will find a ton of useful information here on my channel. Be sure to check out earlier vids and see what cool tricks I've done.
